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Need more than 50 strokes IIRC - you need to get it showing all the copper, all I can see is a piece of copper showing on the left of that picture.
Get a big piece of glass and carry on sanding, i'd say 2 minutes sanding one way, rotate 90 degrees, sand 2 minutes etc etc.
You need to get it so its all copper, then move up the grit ranges :)
my input, someone correct me if im wrong! :)
Lol, guys come on, this was only how i started, just to show that the copper showed in the center very early in the lapping process, meaning it wasn't as concave as others.
The pic was taken with the cpu lying in the kitchen as this gave me the best light for taking a pic, lapping was done on a mirror off course.
I did not go for a fancy mirror finish, just flatness.
Started with 320 then 400-600-1000.
Here's what i ended up with:
oh ok :D sry heh
Haha, no pro. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
LOL at the car hood comment
Nice results though, Zeus. I'll probably lap mine tonight :)
Woot Mine
E6300 lapped for about 2hours
400 grit 1hour 20mins
1500 grit 20 mins
2000 grit 30 or so mins
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7...ture016hi7.jpg
Good job Lapping that E6300 Hl2dxcrt
I might have to go and try this to one of my own
There's no logical mistake here, it's simple science. You wouldn't argue with science, now would you?Quote:
Originally Posted by falqon
Which is a better conductor of heat, TIM or the actual metal touching the CPU? Rephrased, would you agree that the fewer interfaces between something and a thermal conduit, the more efficient the transfer of heat will be?
Now, picture a concave IHS, and a flat one. Guess which one will more efficiently transfer heat to its surroundings.
If I sound condescending, it's because your point makes no sense. There's nothing to prove. Lapping a concave IHS to improve flatness can reduce the internal temperature of the CPU in some cases, and in some cases by a considerable amount. This is known, it's silly to question it.
As for your non-point about Intel's IHS quality, have you ever heard of the phrase "polishing the golden canonball"? Intel has no need to spend money on a component of the chip when that component performs within expected parameters. The IHS works fine at stock voltages and speeds even if it's concave and has TIM lathered on it. That's all they care about. When you operate the CPU outside those parameters, this isn't necessarily true.
Now, I do agree polishing it with brasso and getting it mirror shiny is pointless.
How do you guys stop all the filings from going under the IHS? You know, that little crack. Do you put some tape over it or what?
LOL when I put my conroe under water, air bubbles come out from uinderneath the IHS. This cant be good well I will give results in an hour.
Falqon might be interested in this: "Day 2 started with chip lapping with the thermals engineer as well as IHS removal, we went into detail the poor surface level of the Intel IHS and the variation in core temps if left un-lapped."
From the XUG 2007 post.
Please tell me you're joking... You actually put a €200+ hardware piece under water? The mere though of it makes me shiver... Water is a definetly :nono::nono: when it comes to electronics... Even if there is no current, you may accelerate the rusting process...Quote:
Originally Posted by mukmaster
Let it dry off, or use the "oven technique" posted a while ago in this thread.
*Shiver*
Good luck.
Miguel
Hey guys!
Im just wondering how this "Cross-Method" of sanding works? Can anyone post some pics of the motion i should be following in order to do this when lapping?
Thanks in advance~
Spookz
An image guide to cross pattern by me ;)
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4...patternnc8.jpg
So move the chip to lap? or move the sandpaper on the chip??
From that pic it looks like moving the CPU up and down on the sandpaper - that correct?
all i wanna know is, where do i place my fingers to apply even pressure
http://www.lazyforums.net/uploadfiles/uc_.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by mukmaster
your joking right?
Oh, NOW I understand why you said that about the sandpaper-wrapped cork... You actually have the sandpaper in place while you rub the CPU/Cooler/Whatever over it... I'm not used to that way of sanding, I've actually never seen doing it that way (then again, I've only seen sanding objects way too big for that method... :p:).
It does make sense, but it also explains the rounding of the edges. Like it or not, you'll be putting the most pressure on the edges of the CPU (you might actually break something if you press in the center area...).
Thanks for the info.
Cheers.
Miguel
Yes, you do move the chip. Glass and sandpaper should be taped to desk.
You should place four fingers one on each corner (use two hands). In my n00b observations i explained how to check if pressure is even.
Ok the chip works just fine but those bubbles scared me. I though I just killed my E6300.
I those bubbles scared everyone. :D
xoqolatl, could I use the little protection base where the chip comes in the retail box instead of using glove and the likes?
Also, I was only able to get 300 grit paper yesterday. I'm not looking for the mirror finish - just copper and flat. Could I do it with that or is 600 grit really the minimum?
From what I've seen here, most guys keep the plastic cap on the CPU while sanding. I suggested a few posts back to tape it to the PCB, so it keeps in place and dirt doesn't go near the metal contacts. I think xoqolatl agreed with me on that. Gloves could be an added bouns, if you want to keep your hand clean while sanding. Also, the less sweat the chip gets, the better (because a) it may stink aftwerwards :p: b) sweat is dirt, sort of, and c) sweat is corrosive). I, for one, have very sweaty hands, and it can get very messy when I start using them...
QuietRiot is right, mukmaster, those bubbles scared everyone. I don't even want to know how a C2D ended up in water, it gives me the shivers just thinking about it... Just make sure it is completely dry before you do something extreme to it.
Cheers.
Miguel
Yeah, you should. And you could also tape it on edges to the chip, that way it doesn't move and you are less likely to break the small outjutting clips.Quote:
xoqolatl, could I use the little protection base where the chip comes in the retail box instead of using glove and the likes?
And even when using this protection you should clean the land grid side of the chip with isopropanol before putting it into motherboard. Remember better be safe than sorry.
I really don't know but i think 300 is not enough. The scratches after 300 grid are bigger than retail IHS machine marks, and we want to improve the quality of retail IHS.
Rubbing things causes ESD, use the protection cap that came with the CPU and tape it to the CPU, if you tape it all round it will prevent copperdust getting onto the vital copper contacts.
It does not mean you don't have to clean the backside of the CPU when you're done though.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3990/hpim1148kz3.jpg
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8340/hpim1149wg8.jpg
Not perfect lol but alot better then it was :D