Nice attention to detail, but that's not a surprise :) I think it shows you're doing this to please yourself, and not just to have nice photos on the internet - altho that is a nice benefit for the rest of us.
Printable View
Nice attention to detail, but that's not a surprise :) I think it shows you're doing this to please yourself, and not just to have nice photos on the internet - altho that is a nice benefit for the rest of us.
That is true about me, shazza. Thank you. I'm not just looking to hide the flaws in this build; I want to rectify them. Because anything you all may not see, I will still know is there. And that would bother me. Especially if this case was closely examined down the road and those flaws were revealed.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Obviously, when you're working with mostly hand tools, you have to be reasonable as some things will just be beyond your realm of control. But if I see anything that's within that realm of control, then I'm going to act on it as often as I can.
I'm comfortable with my quest for perfection even if it may drive some others crazy. Patience is a virtue when you're trying to build something special. :)
That is one of the downsides to being a perfectionist, namely that every minor flaw that no one else would even notice, you notice. They are usually the first thing that you see when you look at the finished product.
It is hard when you are limited by your tools knowing you can do even better than you do on a project. This is why I've shelled out several hundred dollars on some nice tools over the winter as some of my tools were simply driving me nuts. I am looking forward to using my new-to-me real table saw, scroll saw, and brand new router as I know they will be so much more accurate and easy to work with.
I think it is normally easy to spot builds that are only about internet pics vs people who do stuff like this because they like doing so. Someone who is only about pics would in no way pay so much attention to detail.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
Oh. My. God.
Will you write quality control guides for case manufacturers?
And why don't you start manufacturing cases!?
Freaking out at the extreme attention to detail and cleanliness. I feel like having you re-manufacture a couple CM cases I have here.... O.O
But seriously, I'm glad you're doing everything you want to do and are not rushing yourself to please the masses. You would be disappointing yourself and everyone else here who cares about the details of this build :up:
Your attention to detail is unreal, as shazza said, we can all see that you are doing this for yourself, i know when i build my computers, if there is even the smallest imperfection, i know its there... and thats all i see..
your work is beautiful, please. design and build me a case?!..... PLEASE!?
Yeah, I can relate to a lot of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
Did you buy a routing table or just a router, voigts? I'm wondering if I can make a routing table out of this RotoZip that I have. After seeing callen's work with his, it's clear this is something that would benefit me for the kind of work that I like to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaByBoI
You guys are way too nice, but I certainly appreciate the compliments. It means a lot. :up:
I haven't been doing case modding for that long, and so I find that I'm learning something new almost every time out.
I took last night off due to freezing weather conditions (my workshop is heated by just two cheap ceramic heaters) but plan on heading over to the shop again tonight to make some more progress on the build. I'll try to provide another update late tonight.
Well, your learning produces great results, and unless you have a huge pile of "mistakes" that you're not showing us, I'd say you're a pro.
Thanks, Wezly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Another update on the way.
THATS WHAT SHE SAID!Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
sorry...
Back on topic: Really clean build man! Amazing workmanship! :up:
@sniperbob - oops, walked into that one, didn't I :p:
@ Xion ... update, update, waiting for the update - nodding off here. (I guess I could just catch it in the morning, but it's kind of like reading a book - just one more chapter before bed time...
Ok, these hands are ready to go back to work.
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/7272/dsc13200001.jpg
But.. wait. Forgot something important.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/1...c132100011.jpg
Entering Ninja Mode...
Ready for anything... ready even for a tool that'd be in my hands for the first time.
The Skilsaw. I found her on sale for 24.99$ at Home Depot. A real steal, I thought.
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8159/dsc13120001.jpg
Okaayyy.. depth adjustment looks good.
This is actually the first time I'm using one of these. It's probably etched in my memory as the tool I remember seeing my father use the most as I was growing up (I'm in my early thirties if any of you were wondering.) So I was anxious to get the feel of it by cutting some 1/4" plexi.
Oh, sorry.. I almost forgot to explain why we're breaking out the Skilsaw in the first place.
Tonight, I'm doing some more work on the Zero-G Chamber. Notice the bottom shelf in this picture. It's buckling a little down the middle with the SSD shelf resting on it.
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/6...c132400011.jpg
To remedy this, I planned to experiment with some thicker plexi just for that bottom shelf. Instead of 1/8" I would try 1/4". This stuff is too thick to cut/break with my bending brake, so I needed a way to cut it. And after doing some research, it seemed like a circular saw was the way to go.
For blades, I'm using 140 tooth 7 1/4" Avanti made for cutting plastics and plywood. You'll notice the teeth are shorter than what you often see on your standard sawblades.
Set-up complete. Shelf length and width marked with the sharpie. We'll be cutting along that black rectangle shown in the bottom right of the plexi sheet. And to ensure a straight cut, we'll use an aluminum angle for a straight edge.
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/6858/dsc13270001.jpg
Earplugs in, safety glasses on.
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3087/dsc13300001.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9277/dsc13290001.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3351/dsc13320001.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/4375/dsc13330001.jpg
Pretty good results. The 140 tooth blades gave me a nice smooth cut. Any jagged edges you see is just the protective paper over the plexi. The cut surface is smooth to the touch. It'll need to be sanded and polished.. maybe dressed with some edge trim. We'll experiment with that later.
Here's how it looks in the frame.
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2561/dsc13350001.jpg
The shelf no longer buckles. Yeah, my side panel's gotten some dust and dirt on it from sitting in the shop with all these tools. It's ok.. I'll clean it up with some windex and an air duster later.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2418/dsc13420001.jpg
Looking pretty good. Still more work to be done on the chamber. I'm still not happy with the edges of the perspex, but I'll save that for another day.
For now, I'll introduce you to my latest workshop investment.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/399/dsc13500001.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/971/dsc13530001.jpg
After seeing all the magic that callen has been able to create with his routing table, I just couldn't resist. They had the Ryobi table and router down at the Depot for 99$, and I couldn't pass it up. It's just a small table, but for the work I'm doing it should suit me just fine. I spent much of tonight just assembling it, but I'll be giving it some play in the next few days. It will have some important work to do on the Zero-G Chamber.
That's all for now. Thanks again for following the making of refleXion.
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/1715/dsc13190001.jpg
Crysis!Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Just like in the beginning where Nomad falls into the water, then the suit is all haywire and his XO does some system check thing, then he flexes his hands.
Dude you're working in VR!
Sweet update :up:
Gaahhhh not enough update
(all caps)
What is the routing table for?
Thanks, sniperbob. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperbob
Pleasant dreams, shazza. Hopefully this sends you off well. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
I didn't even think about Crysis, but you're right. :D Thanks man.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
You'll find out very soon. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Oh my....
That's a purty motherboard ya got 'cherself there....
Get MIPS blocks!
It'll look even better when I get the EK block on it. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
No room for MIPS I'm afraid. Perhaps in a future build.
:woot: for the routing table, and that's a bargain and a half. I paid over 10x that for my setup and you'll probably still run circles around me in terms of build quality :mad: lol. Either way you'll have fun :up:
nice work man ;) needles to say more ;)
Could swear to god that's the beginning of Crysis!Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Looking awesome as always dude, keep it up.
You got the nano suit????
Maximum Mod :p:p
you do need special Photoshop filter to show us pictures made in ninja mod :D
and yeah, not enough update :)
Thanks, callen. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by callen_1
Keep up the great work you're doing, and that case will turn out awesome. And you're right.. it is fun. When you finally have the tools you need to do the job with, it's a lot of fun.
Thanks, nigelke! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelke
Thanks, Xyllian! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Xyllian
Ahahahaha. "Maximum Mod". :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ShArKo
I may try that, GK. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
We Want more updates!!!
EK is just as good. I forgot they made a block for this as well...
As long as nickel-plating is touching chipset, I'm satisfied.
Or new copper, whichever....
I already had a router table, so I just bought a Sears router with removable bases for both plunge and regular use. The router I had was an earlier Sears version that had a plastic housing and was a pain to work with. A router is one of those things that really takes some work to master using as it is such a versatile tool. I have yet to master it.
I would make one word of caution since you said you are new to these tools. I would advise against using gloves whenever you are using saws, drills, or the router. If a bit or saw blade grabs the glove, it will pull your hand in making the injury much more serious. If you happen to hit your hand, your reflexes will naturally pull your hand away. You also pay better attention to your fingers when you are looking at skin rather than gloves.
I just got a good deal on two 10" carbide hollow ground saw blades via Ebay that are for use with aluminum and acrylic. These are going to be great for cutting alu and acrylic on my table saw and miter saw.
Affirmative, Mayboi. Love the new avatar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabyboi
Yeah, inside the block is copper and it's nickel plated on the outside. Black acetal top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Yeah, I'm LOVING the router so far. The only thing that's a pain right now is I'm having difficulty finding a table with enough depth at the back fence for the kind of work that I'm doing (routing a groove down the middle of 7" shelves. Are there no tables out there that have a depth more than just 2-3 inches? Seems crazy that there wouldn't be. I ended up having to dismantle the fence just to have enough room to cut the grooves in my shelves.Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
Anyway..
I hear you on the gloves, but I feel naked working in the shop without work gloves. Just seems unnatural. I'm extremely careful, though. I don't get anywhere near a sawblade or router bit. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but I truly am one of those types who is very alert--too damn alert, in fact. I notice practically everything that's going on around me 24/7. And when I'm in the shop, there are two things on my mind all the time. 1) Safety, first and foremost, and 2) Precision.
Can you link me to those sawblades? I have a new toy that I'd like to try them out on. :DQuote:
I just got a good deal on two 10" carbide hollow ground saw blades via Ebay that are for use with aluminum and acrylic. These are going to be great for cutting alu and acrylic on my table saw and miter saw.
Loading pics in for another update...
It was time to play with the new routing table. Here I'm running just a spare piece of plexi through it to test. I'm routing through with my trusty Bosch upspiral straight bit. It's the same one that I used in my RotoZip.
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/3340/dsc13580001.jpg
You can't beat the smooth, clean finish this bit leaves behind. Just look how smooth it carves out the plexi (the cut on the top right.)
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8402/dsc13610001.jpg
I bought a standard straight bit by SKIL, but it doesn't even compare to this upspiral. It wasn't carving clean.. it was causing the plexi to foam and melt around the edges. So I took it out and threw in the Bosch upspiral, and all is well again. :up:
So what are we doing tonight.. well, we're doing a little rework. I know, I know.. no one likes to do things over, especially me. But as goes this project, so goes a good part of my time, money and.. well, life, basically. I've invested a lot into this work, so if an opportunity presents itself to make a part of it better, then I will.
In the last update, I showed how the bottom shelf in the Zero Gravity Chamber was buckling a little due to the weight of the SSD shelf. We were able to remedy that by making that bottom shelf out of 1/4" plexi instead of the 1/8" that was used originally. In addition, the original mount for the SSD shelf was very simplistic and rather ineffective. It was a straight join with weld-on, and while it will hold okay, there are more effective ways to bond two shelves together.
So tonight, we're going to explore a better way of joining the Zero-G shelves together by cutting and routing some 1/4" plexi to replace the 1/8" plexi that's currently in the chamber.
Here I am marking the SSD shelf location.
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/3563/dsc13640001.jpg
Where you see the shelf rest, we'll be routing a groove out in that bottom shelf for it to fit snug in. Here, I'll show.
Lined up on the routing table.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9215/dsc13660001.jpg
I've set my depth at 1/8". Remember that we're not carving through the shelf but just routing a groove out for our SSD shelf to fit snug in.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/6411/dsc13690001.jpg
The depth of the rip fence on this table is too shallow, so I had to remove it and replace it with an aluminum angle positioned far enough back to route a little more than 3 inches into the shelf.
Here's the end product. A nice, clean straight groove cut into our shelf.
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/3124/dsc13700001.jpg
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/1305/dsc13710001.jpg
That turned out really well and was a lot easier than setting up a straight edge and cutting with the RotoZip. Having a bench just allows you better leverage, along with square cuts.
So, now it was time to cut a new SSD shelf in 1/4" plexi to replace the 1/8" piece. Time to crank up the new toy.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1372/dsc13780001.jpg
My new Ryobi table saw with 30 in. adjustable width to the right of the blade.
I moved it into the back corner of my shop next to the routing table.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/6884/dsc13810001.jpg
It was fun using a handsaw to cut this stuff until it became difficult to make square cuts even with a straight edge. The Skilsaw kept getting hung in the plexi which would cause it to drift a little.
I admire anyone who has both the patience and skill to use hand tools for everything, but my philosophy is if there's a better, quicker, more precise way to do something, then that's the way I'm going. And this table saw will save me a lot of headaches and a lot of time. I'm doing a lot of work with plexi in this build and will in future builds as well.
The thing I noticed immediately with the table saw was how simple it was to square off a piece of material. Two of the four sides of my plexi sheet were not square because of the Skilsaw drifting, and I was able to correct that in a matter of minutes.
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/6581/dsc13870001.jpg
Ok, the first test... how well can it cut through not just plexi but tougher material, like solid state drives...
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/6190/dsc13890001.jpg
Anyone want to take a guess?
:)
I'd have to be out of my freaking mind and then some, obviously.
No, what I'm doing here is measuring off that SSD shelf, because I'm going to cut the new shelf to the same exact size.
Lining up the cut with the miter fence.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/350/dsc13900001.jpg
We'll be cutting right along that line for our shelf width.
And away we go.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/6015/dsc13930001.jpg
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/246/dsc13960001.jpg
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2314/dsc13970001.jpg
Notice that I'm feeding the blade while standing to the right and out of the kickback path. Important safety tip for anyone who's doing this for the first time.
And after what seems like far too easy a job, we're through. Here you can see the nice, clean cut it gives us. I'm using 180 tooth 10" Irwin blades made for plastic and plywood.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7813/dsc14060001.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6207/dsc14070001.jpg
Ok, retrieving our shelf that we had routed the groove in before...
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9978/dsc14110001.jpg
And we'll slide the new SSD shelf down in that groove..
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/310/dsc14080001.jpg
Voila.
We'll secure the two pieces with weld-on. This should give us a cleaner and more secure bond than just bonding two flat pieces together.. especially with the more sturdy 1/4" plexi. :yepp:
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/5179/dsc14130001.jpg
And, using our old SSD shelf as a template, we'll mark the drillholes for the new shelf...
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/1484/dsc14180001.jpg
And those will be drilled shortly.
Thanks for reading; that's it for tonight. Time for me to clean up some of this plexi dust before I get caught in a blizzard.
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/8660/dsc14190001.jpg
oh, nice work mate!
If that it not top secret info, how much did you already spend for all those tools?
You must have quite the workshop now with all the recent power tool additions to it :yepp:
They certainly make a difference when it comes to making accurate cuts, especially the router table. Love the clean finish it leaves on plexi.
Coming along nicely mate. :up:
nice heavy tools ;) congratulations! I love your work in detail! Go on this way and it would be one of the best 3 i had ever seen ;)
HA! More like side-project-build ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Very nice, I think this will help you heaps. Really loving the campers chair too ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
My thoughts exactly :up:! looking good! :D
oh... and its Mabyboi.... :D
Thanks, GK. I'll PM you the details. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Thanks, Red. Having the right tools makes this stuff a lot more fun; I can tell you that. It opens a lot of doors as to what is possible in a build. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Red-5
Thank you, ipuoL. Your feedback is much appreciated, friend. :) And I do hope that the end product lives up to your expectations. I'll do my best!Quote:
Originally Posted by ipuoL
Hehe. ;) :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Yeah. I figured since I was camping out in the workshop for days at a time now that I needed a camping chair. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
I love those chairs as they're really comfortable. Especially for those with back trouble like I tend to have occasionally.
Sorry, bud. I knew that.. it was just a late night typo. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabyboi
Off to have some lunch, then watch a little of the Olympics before heading back over to the shop. Have a great day, everyone!
These are the blades I just got:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-10-MASTERCRAFT...item53dd33706c
They should leave much cleaner edges than having to use regular saw blades.
It's good to see you enjoying your self mate.
However your not being too safe!!!
Please get ride of those damm! gloves when using power tools, you scare me.
If by chance(and God forbid) your wearing your gloves and you slip or just have your hand in the wrong place and the sh@t hits the fan.
The teeth on the saw blade will grab hold of the fabric/leather of the glove and pull your whole hand into the blade as fast as it can look at you.
There will be, no time to react and it will not stop until either your hand jams the blade and stalls the motor
or it cuts through your hand up to the point where the glove stops, only at that point will you be able to pull your are away.
That might well be past your wrist, I am really serious mate.
Look at it this way mate, if you stuff up with NO glove on your hand there is no fabric or leather for the teeth on the blade
to grab hold of and pull your hand into the saw blade, so you loose a finger, no biggy, you have more, right. :rolleyes:
It will only cut your skin, I know sounds dumb, but you will be able to pull your hand out, straight away, as the blade will have no hold on your skin.
Because it has already cut it, just like how you can cut into a piece of wood and stop when ever you like.
As long as you don't push the wood towards the blade anymore, there in nothing for the blade to grab and pull on, it just sits there.
I have seen some pretty horrendous thing happen at work over my time, I touched on that with the drill press at Shazzas work log.
I lost the top pads of my two middle fingers on my left hand thanks to a wood plan, luck for me I just touched to top of the blades and it flicked my hand back, but didn't grab it.
In fact it wasn't until I noticed what the wood was suddenly wet, my first thought was that sap coming out of 100 yr old Jarrah.
Jarrah is hard wood from Western Australia and it’s red in colour, so then I looked at my fingers.
The blades had cut off the pads at the tips of my two fingers, ring finger was to the bone and both had lost the tips of the fingernails.
I hardly noticed it, just a quick sharp pain, like a splinter.
After 6 months the skin finely covered the flat spots back up and I got full feeling back in both fingers, you couldn't even tell unless you look real close now.
I pray that all close calls are that easy to fix. :yepp:
Anyhow!
When cutting on a table saw, yes there is a chance that material can kick back at you.
Mainly with wood that has a twist or a bow in it, and for that reason you should not use it.
It kicks back at you either because it gets jammed between the fence and the blade or it rides up the back of the blade.
The splitter at the back of the blade will stop most of the kick back as it stops the material from touching the back of the blade.
You are right, you are best to stand on the right side of the blade with a table saw.
But don't push material through with your hands, use a push stick made out of scrap wood.
This will not only keep your hands away from the blade but will also help to stop you from leaning over the blade as to push through the material.
Plus don’t think that guard over the blade will stop your hands either.
It want, it's just cheap plastic and it will break up when something either hits it or will lift up as your hand slides under it.
I don't want to scare the crap out of you so you never use it again, but just give you the heads up that these can bite.
Take the time to ask people that have work with this equipment what the best way to use it and what do you need to watchout for.
There will be locale courses you can take or just buy some book on how to use it.
Have fun with it mate. :up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Alright, guys. No more gloves with the power tools. :)
I am extremely careful when working with this stuff.. being very conscious to have my hands/body in the right position, etc. Have read through all the safety manuals and even watched a lot of operational videos, but I do appreciate the concern and advice and will pay heed to it. I did some research, and it does appear that wearing gloves isn't a great idea for sawing or drill press work. I think it's probably ok as long as you're careful, but to lessen any risk of injury I'll take the advice. Thanks.
Nice machines you have. I'm dreaming of such a machine shop....
You know safety first in every aspect of life.
Nice work BTW.
Thanks, voigts. Let me know how they work. Do you plan to use them on your miter or table saw?Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
I think for now that I'm still inclined to use a jig for cutting aluminum. The blade rotation on my table saw spins frontward, and the thought of cutting metal and spinning shards out the front just doesn't seem like much fun to me.
Thanks, mib. It's just a basic shop. I'm still building up my tool base, but it's much more than I had just a few months ago. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mib
Right now I'm busy polishing my router skills. This plexi makes a real mess.. I know that much.
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/9779/dsc14250001.jpg
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/4804/dsc14260001.jpg
Shop-vac to the rescue. There's a vacuum attachment on the back of the router table that's built into the fence, but since I'm not using the stock fence (too short a depth for the shelves that I'm carving) then I can't use it. Which ultimately means that there's a 100% chance of snow any time that I flip the switch on the router with plexi on the table.
Here's some of the work I'm doing. Basically just trying to learn this router to see how clean a groove cut that I can get.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/1716/dsc14330001.jpg
The screws for the SSDs are too short to mount through 1/4" plexi, so I'm using the router to clear away the plexi where the SSDs mount through the back.
I'm also now thinking about just sanding/polishing the edges of the plexi instead of framing it. If I can get it completely transparent (or close) then I may keep it like this as it kind of shimmers in the light.
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/179/dsc14310001.jpg
And.. look, ma! No work gloves! (although I felt naked without them) :hitself:
And look at that thing on the tip of your thumb! It's disgusting. What is that, dust, messed up dead skin? Gross. Put those gloves back on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Just can't please anyone these days. If I wear my safety gloves, I get a safety lecture. If I take good photos, I need a manicure.
What's a modder to do. :shrug:
@Xion X2
I see that the cut outs are not transparent as plexi is. What I remember to avoid that was to use an oil to cool down plexi.
Any particular oil that you used? Sometimes I'll use an aluminum lubricant when I'm cutting metal, but I wasn't sure if it was okay to use on plexi or not. Plexi seems sensitive to certain chemicals.Quote:
Originally Posted by mib
The cut wasn't perfectly clean, either, which caused some cloudiness. I'm still using the Bosch spiral bit which has a sharp carbide tip, and I'm thinking a duller, smoother bit to polish it will help bring back the transparency. I know that sanding it with high grit paper seems to do it, but I don't have high enough grit right now to get it clear. Will buy some 1500 grit tomorrow to try.
Your pictures and safety procedures are fine; you should know by now that I will always have something to say now that you are putting up progress photos.
May I ask why you cannot use longer screws for the zero G walls? Or is that to route cables? How are you going to deal with the round corners? Won't those show up and refract light, especially when polished?
I knew you were playin.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Finding screws to fit the SSDs has been difficult because they're so small. The only place I've found them is MDPC, and this is as long as they come. I can try locating some, but I actually thought that some nice carving work on the back of the plexi would add some dimension to the piece. It's not necessary that the drives appear as floating from the back since you're going to see the screws, anyway. The effect is meant to be seen from the other side where they show through the windows.Quote:
May I ask why you cannot use longer screws for the zero G walls? Or is that to route cables? How are you going to deal with the round corners? Won't those show up and refract light, especially when polished?
What "round corners" are you speaking of? Not following you here.
I will probably end up using them on both my miter saw and table saw. It will be so much faster to cut aluminum sheets with a table saw than having to use a jig saw. I planning on using an aluminum frame (with wooden exterior) on my next build (I'm going some renders for it at the moment). A table saw makes much cleaner cuts too than a jig saw, and it is a lot quicker and easier than having to use a hand held circular saw. As for the bits of material, you just wear safety glasses and long sleeves. I wear glasses anyway, but when cutting metal, I always wear safety glasses as one little piece of metal in your eye will take you to the doctor/hospital.
I also will be cutting small square pieces for a res, and I've found out the hard way before that when you are making a rectangular res out of rectangular pieces, the less you have to mess with the edges and the squarer you can cut the pieces the better as you can then get good seams.
As for the grooves in your plexi, you may want to consider doing a bit of flame polishing with a small pencil torch. As long as an edge isn't going to be solvent welded (glued), you can hit it with a torch a bit to shine it up quickly. A pencil torch is ideal for small notches like that, and can save a lot of time sanding.
As for tools, I've already accumulated more than I planned. The more you tinker with stuff and build stuff, the more tools you find yourself needing. I've now got a large belt drive table saw, scroll saw, drill press, miter saw, sliding miter saw, orbital sander, belt sander, mouse sander (very handy), sawzall, cordless and power drills, new router with interchangeable bases, variable speed Dremel with bunches of bits, digital calipers, squares, clamps of all sizes from 4'" to 4", etc, etc, and have used all of them except for sawzall in modding. Modding is infectious!
Hay you, don't mean to bug'ya.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
But I get the feeling this is just lip service, I really hope I am wrony.
It's in this comment, I am not sure you really get it.
I had a boss once that said until you get five stitches, you don't know squat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
You might be "extremely careful when working with this stuff".
"Being very conscious to have my hands/body in the right position", this is just basic stuff, common sense, all thou I find common sense in not that common.
Having "read through all the safety manuals and even watched a lot of operational videos" is excellent to hear.
Being alert is good, feeling naked is also good, because it will heighten your senses, may be even to the point of being "very alert".
But it want last, I will bet my right nad, that it want last.
You will become complacent and it what take long, in fact you want even notice it, until something out of the norm,
something outside of your control happens and that’s when the s@at hits the fan and if you have been cutting corners you will pay, big time.
Xion even if you do everything to the highest safety standards all the time, thing will still go wrong.
I will be honest with you, for the first time last night in this work log, I never read each and every post, I just looked at the photos
I never read that Voigts had cautioned you on using gloves, but I am dam glad he did.
10 points to Voigts.
While I am giving you a so called "lecture", I know my kid don't like them either, they'll get over it.
Do you have a mobile phone on you when working in your work shop?
Is it turn on?
Do you have 991 (Your relevant Emergence Number) programmed into speed dial?
Can you get a strong signal everywhere inside the workshop?
Are there people always around you (calling distance from work shop) if you needed to call out for help?
I don't want to give you a hard time mate, I’ve got better thing to do than type this all out with two fingers, but you are playing with fire and those that don't know how to play, get burnt.
If I didn't care about you mate, I would give you a half line caution and be done with it.
Enough said.
Looking forward to your nest update mate.:up:
Sorry, Graeme. I draw the line at the gloves, bud. I'm just not willing to saw naked. Just the very thought of it makes me curl into a fetal position.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
:eek:
On a serious note, I do take safety very seriously and certainly appreciate your concern. But I would prefer to continue this discussion through PM going forward to help keep this thread on topic. :)
Thanks, bud.
To get the cloudiness out of a plexiglass cut, you can torch it with a blow torch. :up:
Thanks, Laine. Have you experimented with any model in particular that you could recommend?Quote:
Originally Posted by Laine
I haven't used a torch, but I've tried my heat gun and it seems to melt the perspex too close to the point where it finally becomes perfectly opaque.
After some experimenting last night, I've found that going higher than 1000 grit sandpaper will give you the opaque look that you're going for without heat.
You can try a bernzomatic (the yellow one).Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
I've used it and it works, just not quite as well a the hydrogen mix the pros use. The finer the tip you can find for it the better, as the
one it comes with has a fairly wide flame (in comparison to the width of the acrylic).
Leave the paper on the acrylic and pass the flame relatively quickly and it'll leave a polished surface. Also, the smoother the original
surface, the quicker it will glass-off. This will also reduce the risk of burning the acrylic so it's a good idea to hand polish with a fine grit
first.
Well, that's my experience anyway. Take it or leave it :p:
Great info, callen. Thanks. After seeing your workshop skills, I think I'll take it and give the Benzo a try. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by callen_1
The question is.. do I wear...
Won't go there. :D
I think you need the maximum protection...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
i think...
you need...
A NANO SUIT!!
Yeah, I completely agree. That's the first benefit that I noticed of my table saw was how much easier it is to make square cuts now.Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
Alright, you convinced me, voigts. I went ahead and bought two of those Mastercraft blades for aluminum to try. I hope they work well. I went to my local hardware stores, and, per usual, they didn't have any blades that were made for cutting aluminum.
Is your thought that sanding a smooth groove down will keep it from bonding as well as a rough surface? I'd thought of that, yet at the same time since I plan to keep these plexi joins exposed I'd like them as clean looking as possible. Also, do you have a link to the type of torch that you're recommending? I went looking through some tonight but am not sure which one I should get for this type of work.Quote:
As for the grooves in your plexi, you may want to consider doing a bit of flame polishing with a small pencil torch. As long as an edge isn't going to be solvent welded (glued), you can hit it with a torch a bit to shine it up quickly. A pencil torch is ideal for small notches like that, and can save a lot of time sanding.
Thanks, friend.
That looks like it'd be helpful in the shop, doesn't it? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabyboi
This is total your choice Michael, it's your line to draw as their your hands.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
What you do with them is totally up to you.
But I honestly feel I would have be doing you a disservice not to make clear how dangerous this practice is.
On a serious note Michael this is on topic, it's basic Safty 101.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
It really good of you to take the time to show detailed photos of your work log. Because of that, what you do in this work log will be a guide for others to follow in the future and that does concern me.
I hope future readers will find the value in this. :up:
Ahoy Xion....I've been using this to polish up acrylic. Practice on some scrap pieces with the same thickness that you're working with as it does tend to warp thinner pieces if "flame on" is left too long.
Good luck and fair winds to you, matey! :up:
Graeme, it was a joke, bud. Naked.. as in totally naked (fetal position, get it? *nudge*)Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
;)
Just trying to keep the mood light, friend. I know that safety is important, but there's also no need to unnecessarily scare the crap out of anyone who wants to start working in a shop. There has to be a balance, and I'm trying to keep this worklog upbeat and fun and not let it dissolve into an argument about safety habits. I think all readers have gotten it by now, so I'd like to keep all safety talk to PMs going forward. I do appreciate your concern and, as always, will take your advice into strong consideration. In fact, because of the feedback that you and others have given me, I'm certainly more conscientious than ever about wearing gloves around power tools. As I said, I didn't even use them the last time out, so you've all gotten inside my head--for better or worse.
:)
Thanks for the link! I skipped across that same model tonight and almost picked it up. Wanted to ask around first, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by CptDreadFlint
Fair enough mate.
But, I would still like to see a photo of you naked in the fetal position . :shocked: :ROTF:
:sick: JUST SAY NO! :sick:Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
I have to work with him
I'm posting some previously unreleased shots of the build. One of them has hidden meaning.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/1517/dsc117500011.jpg
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/8510/dsc10430001.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/167/dsc10280001.jpg
Oooooh that's nice...
:up:
Those same blades that work for aluminum also work for acrylic as the way the blades are ground keeps the acrylic from heating up as much as regular saw blades. Those blades from Ebay are a real good deal as they usually run about $60 each for carbide tipped blades of that kind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
With acrylic, you can't heat up edges very much that you are going to solvent weld or it will craze in the joint (small cracks). Therefore you really don't want to flame polish, machine sand, or polish edges that are going to get joined. If I am going to join edges, then I sand them just smooth by hand on a flat surface enough to get the saw marks out. If you have an edge however that is going to show but is not getting joined, then you can sand it down smooth and then just hit it a bit with the torch to polish the edge instead of having to do it with a polishing wheel. You just have to be careful to go lightly and quickly with the heat so that you don't heat the acrylic up too much and cause it to bubble up.
That Benzomatic pencil torch kit that CptDreadFlint linked to looks to be a good option. I have just used a cheap $5 pencil torch from the local hardware store, but they don't last.
I'll have you know that your photos have challenged me to do some reading to figure out how to take good shots. I've been playing around with the manual settings on my new Canon SX120 and am starting to get a handle on aperature, ISO, and shutter speeds and how they relate to the end result. I got one large 48" light tent in, and am about to order a smaller 30" or so tent also.
Great info, voigts. Thanks. That will be helpful with the acrylic work that I'm doing. Appreciate the compliments on the photos as well. Sounds like you're off to a good start with the photography.
Thanks also to you, Wezly.
subscribed...
this worklog looks like the most beautiful I have ever seen!!
Go on XION... you rocks :)
Fair enough Mark, I will Now Formally take back my request for the safety of all man kind. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Wons
Is the hidden meaning that everything look blueish when the inside of the case is lite from with in? :rolleyes:
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wons
You guys just want me for my mind... :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Nope.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Hope to have another update tonight as I experiment more with the router and making some recess cuts on the zero-G chamber shelves.
Oops, sorry, johnp1983. Didn't mean to skip over your compliment. Thank you very much, bud! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by johnp1983
I believe the time has arrived to reveal the secret behind the side panel of refleXion.
When at first, it appeared as acrylic. Then, I revealed that it was actually a mirrored acrylic piece. Now, here is the next revelation:
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/3586/dsc10420001.jpg
The side panel window, instead of being a mirror, is actually two-way mirror perspex. It's the same stuff that's used in security cameras. When lit from behind, it becomes transparent so that you can see through it.
Notice in the above photo that at the left corner where the softbox is sitting behind it, it is perfectly transparent. Then, as you move to the right and out of the path of light, it becomes a mirror again.
:)
AHHHH I've been waiting to talk about that! :ROTF: I really wanted to bring it up when you posted those teaser photos. Surprised no one else commented on it....Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Where are the other surprises?!?!!
Damn, you've been moving along since I been gone. It's coming along really nice. :up:
I was wondering where you had gone... :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Yeah, this log has really taken shape lately.
Kind of quiet in here now. Not sure why.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Thanks, Miller! Was wondering where you went off to.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
So I've been getting in a lot of practice with the router table. This is quickly becoming my favorite tool (I know, I say that with every purchase, but it's true!)
What I'm attempting now is to recess cut the Zero-G shelves that the pumps rest on. The reason I'm doing this is because, after going with 1/4" plexi in place of 1/8", the pumps now sit 1/8" higher and do not line up properly in the windows. You'll see what I mean shortly.
First step was to draw an outline of the pump base on a test plexi shelf that was cut to scale at 1/4" thickness. Then, I'll recess cut it with the router 1/8" which was the thickness of the perspex in the original design of the Zero-G Chamber.
The place you'll want to pay attention to is on the left (there are a few cuts on this piece. Like I said, it was used for testing, so please ignore them.) It's outlined with the sharpie. I'm using a standard board as a straight edge on the right so that I can cut a straight line downward on that left side.
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1724/dsc14340001.jpg
This is how it looks all cleared out. There are some rough grooves in there, but those will come out once we start sanding it down.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6859/dsc14360001.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9457/dsc14400001.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9673/dsc14410001.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/7096/dsc14420001.jpg
I'll hit it with my power sander first and use the mouse/detail end attachment.
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/2236/dsc14430001.jpg
This is how it looked afterward.
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/9665/dsc14440001.jpg
Now we go through the torturous process of sanding this down back to opaque (I really need a torch..)
But first, this is how it will look. You can see that the base of the pump now rests in that 1/8" recess cut.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8075/dsc14450001.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9481/dsc14470001.jpg
Now to the sanding...
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5192/dsc14520001.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/398/dsc14530001.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/4850/dsc14540001.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/2767/dsc14550001.jpg
My fingers feel like they're about to fall off at this point. 2000 grit below (forgot to include it on the photo)--
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8871/dsc14560001.jpg
Still not perfectly opaque, so we'll have to keep working with it. I'll pick up a torch and some Brasso or another abrasive tomorrow as the sanding is taking forever.
For now, this is how it will look mounted in the Zero-G Chamber. The recess cut as shown through the pump window--
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6425/dsc14570001.jpg
And now with the pump seated in it.
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3198/dsc14590001.jpg
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/6937/dsc14660001.jpg
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/116/dsc14680001.jpg
The bottom pump resting on top of the 1/4" shelf. This will need to be recessed as well. You can see the top of the pump base is showing through the window a little, and I only want the res top showing--
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9939/dsc14630001.jpg
Now onto another piece.
I've been experimenting with my unibits and this plexi. I'm really happy at the clean circular cuts they make. I plan to use pass-thrus on the middle plexi shelf. Why? Difficult to explain at this point, but to put it short, the tubing, when routing back into the chamber, has to make its way back over to the pumps which are on the other side of that plexiglass shelf.
I've probably confused you, but it'll become clear shortly.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/9552/dsc14740001.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6810/dsc14800001.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7114/dsc14810001.jpg
That's all for now. Thanks for checking in. :up:
Nice job on the holes for the fittings, and good luck with your sanding!
looks good! i like the plexi with the holes for your barbs, will look amazing!
I agree ^ :yepp: it's looking great. Had you used 10mm plexi you could have just tapped the holes, no pass-through's needed! but that stuff's daaaamn expensive, even offcuts :mad:
ooooooooooooh.....
I see what you did there....
And you're not worried about the pumps shaking without the bolts? Or are they attached from the bottom somehow and you just didn't show us yet?
Thanks, everyone. :)
Wezly -- the pumps will be attached to the recess cut through the bottom with the bolts that come with it. A thin foam pad will be inserted underneath as well to dampen vibration.
http://pw0nd.com/wp-content/uploads/...e-i-see-it.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Uh oh.. have I been had? :p:
I blame it on too many hours in my cubicle and workshop.. need to loosen up a little.
If you use the 1000, 1500, 2000 Wet & Dry "wet" (with water) you will find that to works much better and will start to polish the perspex as it cuts it back.
Just have a small container of water near by to soak and rinse the Wet & Dry in.
sweet :D i just love it :D keep going ^^
Very awesome precise work Xion!
I'm a bit concerned about the pump recesses, would the pumps get too warm in there? Do you have anything in mind on how to get some air movement in the zero-g chamber?
Thanks, kg. I'll try that. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Thanks, man. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelke
Thanks, Kibbler. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
Warm because of the PSU, you mean? The recess cut is only 1/8", and I don't think that these pumps generate too much heat since they're small. The SSDs run very cool as well, unlike standard HDDs.
The PSU will be vented out the front of the case to keep the chamber cool. The HX1000's intake fan is a 140mm and is located on the bottom of the PSU. So I'll be cutting a vent into the bottom of the Cosmos where it mounts (the Cosmos sits on legs off the floor, so this will work well to intake from the floor of the case) for an intake and will be cutting a vent into the front panel to exhaust the hot air.
A crude illustration--
PSU shown below:
[]--------[] >
[]--------[] > exhaust through front panel
[]--------[] >
^^^^^^^
intake air
I hope that makes better sense of it. I realize it may be a bit confusing since this is an unorthodox design, but it'll all make sense soon.
The Corsair HX1000 is the PSU that I'm using. The only real difference from a standard mount for this PSU will be that I'm mounting it backwards and on the opposite end of the case. It's made to exhaust air out the back to the left, like most PSUs do, and I'm exhausting to the right and out the front of the case, instead of the back.
I didn't know if you were going to bolt the pumps together with the plexi, because I wasn't sure if the screws would reach through to the threads in the res-top.
But I guess you are haha.
Yeah, the bolts are plenty long. They actually screw in about a full inch into the acrylic res tops. I also plan to paint them black so that they'll blend in with the base of the pumps, which are also black. And I'll likely countersink the holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
Did you notice that I also removed those two mounting tabs off the pump base? Took those off with the dremel and metal cutting disc.
:up:
Yeah I saw that, and that's why I was asking. Helps if I mention my observations, doesn't it?
*Phew*. I'm tired. :D
Been spending a lot of hours in the shop lately.
First, some more fun with the unibits. I have a few different ones, and they all seem to cut different into this plexi. The fatter one has a better cut and gives me edges that are as smooth as a baby's behind. The skinnier ones with more depth leave a little roughness behind to sand away.
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/5747/dsc14820001.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/3680/dsc14850001.jpg
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/2923/dsc14880001.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6133/dsc14890001.jpg
I'll have some pictures of the actual Zero Gravity shelves drilled with these in the next update.
Pieces laid out for cutting. I'll be cutting two 22.5 x 8" panels, one for the roof of the case and one for the floor.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/7575/dsc15220001.jpg
Out comes the trusty (?) jigsaw.
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/5720/dsc15260001.jpg
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/1445/dsc15270001.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5168/dsc15310001.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9177/dsc15320001.jpg
So the jig cuts came out "ok" as they always do and were filed down. And one of these pieces served for the new floor in my case to cover those ugly vents. Remember this?
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/1...xionbuild8.jpg
Now, with the improved look.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/358/dsc15450001.jpg
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/5569/dsc15470001.jpg
And into the Zero-G Chamber.
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1437/dsc15490001.jpg
I'll be cutting vents in this new floor only where they are needed.
*Takes a breather and a swig of bottled water*
Ok.. then I went to work on the roof of the case.
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4734/dsc15510001.jpg
Ugly mesh vents.. and more than are needed...
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/5221/dsc15520001.jpg
Out you come, ugly mesh vents. Mr. Dremel, get to work.
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5185/dsc15570001.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/9791/dsc15590001.jpg
That's looking better. And since I hate jigsaws (I guess hate would be a strong word, but I dislike them for their inaccurate nature) I will clear these out with the routing table, instead.
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/5752/dsc15620001.jpg
Important safety tip: Whenever placing your piece on your routing table, always make sure that you are holding it securely as above before flipping the switch. That bit will grab into it easily and fling it across your table if you don't.
And at all times, if not using a miter guide, make sure you are holding the piece securely with both hands to minimize kickback and keep your hands and fingers as far away from the bit as possible.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7340/dsc15630001.jpg
Clearing out the right side.
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1873/dsc15650001.jpg
A very clean cut, even before filing.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/331/dsc15690001.jpg
Now for the other side.
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/8172/dsc15710001.jpg
And the short sides.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2867/dsc00020001.jpg
And then we have the completed piece.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/5...xionzagpss.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/7866/dsc00130001.jpg
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/4439/dsc00140001.jpg
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7953/dsc00180001.jpg
The new piece for the roof will overlay from the inside. Since the Cosmos has a shell, you won't be able to see the top/outside roof of the frame, but I wanted it to look nice, anyway.
Both the floor and roof will have to be cut in certain places for the shell to fit back on properly. But.. let's save that one for another day, shall we!?
Well I think that's about enough for now. Thanks again for following the making of refleXion.
:up:
I greatly enjoy this.
:up:
router is something magical, it always leaves rounded corners behind :)
Nice update man :up:
Yes, that looks like the answer right there. That new blade is set to cut in the oposite spin as your old blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nirvash
:slap: (thats someone slaping me by the way)
I had this long paragraph on what was wrong, and even checked my tools out in the shop. You installed that aluminum cutting blade backwards. flip it around so the teath point towards you.
Beautiful build and great craftmanship :up:
However, having the pumps rest on the acrylic shelves is a bad idea for two reasons:
1) Vibrations. Pumps vibrate a lot and although the acrylic will somewhat dampen vibrations they'll still propagate to the aluminium walls and I doubt you'll be happy with the result. So you may want to decouple them.
2) Heat. These pumps can get pretty hot, and counter-intuitively they get hotter with less restriction in the loop. They risk overheating if rested on the shelves.
You may get away with some venting holes where the pumps are resting as it won't show. Getting rid invisibly of the vibrations will be more challenging, maybe have the pumps rest on rubber or silicon :shrug:
Unfortunately since the pumps need to be primed to run, it won't be easy to test the best (i.g. most silent) decoupling method.
Anyway good luck and again congratulations on a beautiful build.
:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Wezly
The saw spins clockwise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nirvash
Thanks, bud. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
Are you absolutely sure about this? All the blades that I've seen so far have the print on the side that faces left against the arbor nut. Why would this one be backwards?Quote:
Originally Posted by nlancaster
Will definitely be researching this one more.
Thanks, Hannibal. :) See my replies in red below.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hannibal Lecter
Quote:
1) Vibrations. Pumps vibrate a lot and although the acrylic will somewhat dampen vibrations they'll still propagate to the aluminium walls and I doubt you'll be happy with the result. So you may want to decouple them.
The pumps will have foam pads placed underneath them. The shelves will be bolted down in all four corners through aluminum brackets which will keep them from vibrating much, and they will also have a thin rubber lining between the edge of the shelf and the chamber housing.
2) Heat. These pumps can get pretty hot, and counter-intuitively they get hotter with less restriction in the loop. They risk overheating if rested on the shelves.
I don't understand what you mean here, because pumps are always resting on something, be it shelves, the floor of a case, the drive bay or whatever. Why would these shelves be any different?
You may get away with some venting holes where the pumps are resting as it won't show. Getting rid invisibly of the vibrations will be more challenging, maybe have the pumps rest on rubber or silicon :shrug:
Yes, as I mentioned before, the pumps will have a foam pad cut to the size of the base inserted beneath them.
It looks like you did mount the new blade backwards. It doesn't mount according to which side the print is on. The cutting blades should be putting force downward onto the cutting edge. This is to keep the piece being cut from being kicked upwards by the blade. You mounted the blade so that it is cutting upwards on the alu and hence the ripping effect. It shouldn't do that if mounted correctly.
Exactly what router bit are you using to make those cuts?
I've never used unibits. Are they better than conventional bits?
Hi Xion X2Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
Very careful work great!:up:
・ ・ ・ Great tool and envy:(
please dont quote the entire update :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by noeru
but great job Xion! we need more!! :stick:
Nice update, Xion
(I edited the full image quotes out of noeru's post to save our scrolling fingers)
yes this is a GREAT build. Also you did install the saw blade backwards.
Of course pumps need to rest on something but the bottom part of the pump heats up quite a lot, there need to be some space or vent holes below the pump. In fact you should also think about some (even light) airflow in the cage if you haven't already.
You could do something like this:
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...er22/shelf.gif
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...shelf--DDC.gif
Keep up the great work :up: