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Would have thought it would be lower with your settings at idle. I get 33-35c. Check the HS seating - what paste u using and how thick was it put on. Try a non conductive like Mx-2 or equivalant and apply nice and thin. Also check the CPU - IHS and your HS with a razor to see if they are flat - if not consider lapping whatevers not flat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kondik
yup there is nothing wrong w/ sticking with 333mhz @ 3ghzQuote:
Originally Posted by Kondik
2 Days ago i decided to "refurbish my PC" so i bought an Q6600, funny part was it's G0 (5) revision and from 19.1.2008 factory date. Put it on 333 FSB so its 3.00 GHz now and im happy with that but i pu GeminiII with Noctia P12 on it [ one] and the temps are 34 - 38 idle and load 51 - 53. Isn't that too high with 1.15 V ?
you just got a QX9650 for 1/4th the cost. and only a SMALL performance loss. one that you will never see.
and that is something very few people think about.
you spend 250-270 on a Q6600, set the FSB to 333 and you just got a QX9650 that has a miniscule performance difference, and only runs slightly warmer, slightly. you just saved 800 bucks.
Sesdave is right check the IHS on your cpu. use a razor, and check it again with a 2nd razor to see if the 1st razor was flat.
most Q6600's that i have seen have a very small pocket, not like alot of the E6600's but a small one but with the gemini II (i have one) you need all the cooling help you can get.
thos eheatsinks are only 20 bucks or less and are a the best cooler in that price range. but you suffer for it because of its enormous size.
i had to remove the 120mm fan brackets to get it to fit in my V1000 case, and i have a single 120mm fan sitting on it.
adding a 2nd fan might help if you have the fan brackets on it but i dont think it will help alot.
i am real leary about these new larger heatsinks, so many of them wont even allow you to use them in your case because they actually hit the divider metal between the mobo and psu, BUT you may want to look into a scythe heatsink or an U120 Extreme.
check PetrastechShop.com he is member here and usually has the best price on the U120 Extreme. you can even ask him if he has any open box returned ones, last i talked to him he did have a couple. save you maybe 10 bucks..
my G0 sits @ 3.9ghz 1.45v 24/7
its an L737B
Been trying lower multi @ 450FSB as advised..
Cant get stable with even 6 multi run prime freezes instantly crapy Q6600?
400FSB works fine have (3200) 24/7 but wanted 3.6 seems golden speed people get with these!
To get 400x9 (3600) needs 1.5V
Gives me 72C all 4 cores loaded in prime.. not even sure if thats stable as only been running 15 mins!! but temp wise HOT :shocked:
Holdling 1 hour 30 mins Prime 95
400x9 (3600) @ 1.5V
FSB 1600MHZ
Temps 75C loaded :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:
Hey Guys!
I'm having some issue stabilizing my Q6600 G0, or so I'm thinking!
I've already run Orthos on the four cores, both FFTs and Blend tests, for two hours each without any errors. I've already also run a quad super-pi 32M, and 3D mark 2001 without any errors.
However, when I tried to run 3D Mark 05 and 06, both test failed, just when the second test was beginning. I got the same BSOD, with an error nv4_disp.dll. I've tried two different sets of drivers and even at stock speeds I can't pass those 3D Marks.
Any ideas?
Cheers
http://lites.no.sapo.pt/screenspd.jpg
Not all q6600 go's are the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho_eddie
I had a batch 738B that would not even post 450fsbx8 but did 400fsbx9 at 1.55Vcore. Not very good.
I now have a batch 727B that does 450fsbx8 at 1.325Vcore, 475fsb at 1.45Vcore and will get into windows at 490fsb 1.575Vcore but not stable, same rig. Much better cpu, very happy.
I dont see any better scores in benches 450fsb v 400fsb so you are still fine with 400fsb.
anyone know how these chips are doing?
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4426/quadsb8.jpg
While the L737 batch has been known to produce excellent overlockers (amongst the best in the G0 stepping,) higher number L737s, such as your L737B6, are much more hit or miss. Only way to find out how well your chip will do is to put it in your rig and test. Be sure to check the VID of the chip in Core Temp. If it's 1.325 (as many higher number 737s are,) you might be in for a bit of a challenge.
Just a head up for those that are planning to get a Q6600 in a near future, I got a Q6600 for my GF's family and the batch code is L745A with a VID of 1,2250V which seems to be quite good... I didn't test it much but I just raised it to 3GHz and lowered the voltage to 1,2V which resulted in P95 stability.
The CPU is running on a P5K Premium along with some G.Skill 4GB PC2-8000 ;)
Agreed on that... My L737B full code is L737B031 (or 061) and is clocking like there's no tomorrow. On the other hand, I've seen a few L737B with a higher number not clocking so good...Quote:
Originally Posted by theYipster
It's always pretty much a hit or miss when purchasing a CPU :)
have you tested your ram stability? honestly it seems like a driver issue though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spd
I did took down that Geminy .. even if my case is huge ... Gigabyte 3D Aurora 570S .. i simply can't put it there in a way it would stick correctly and won't block something ... when I mount it sideways ... it blocks Memory modules with Thermaltake Cooling ... 90 degrees more ... VGA card , another 90 Degrees .... back of the case .. in the time of testing the front side was pointing at the PSU Fan .. [ 2 Thermalright towers on South Bridge and North Bridge ... they block anything in their way .. ] .. I think i'll put the Geminy back in the BOX and order an tower like Thermalright 120 .. i tried to put as many passive coolers as i could in the case to minimalise the noise ... and i have just 5 12 CM Nosctuas 2x S12 800 exhaust 2x P12 1000 Intake and one P12 1300 on the Gemini thing ... but still 38 with that massive cooler .. maybe it was because of that mounting ... it was mounted completley wrong .. BTW im using MX-2 as a "cooler lubricant" (:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lestat
Previous post with complete info: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=1936
Update:
Mine won't do 3600MHz 100% stable on air, well it will but the volts/temps are too high, which means for every day use = no. It needs wc, simple as that. At 22-28C ambients like I'm usually at, they're way too high, and that will jump to 30C-36C ambient very soon.
For the run below I dropped the ambient case to 18C, not because of stability testing or getting a result, but because I was testing Orthos/OCCT/Prime95/Linpack/TAT at 3.6G for another thread and needed it fully TAT/Linpack stable (which requires much higher volts) with temp. headroom since TAT really makes the temps fly out of bounds and 82C software core temp readings would reboot my system.
Fact is on air, with typical cooling voltage kills and boosts heat output insanely so these are the temps you'll expect, only a few degrees lower with the best possible air. TT120 holds my system at 65/65/59/58C, not much lower to Zalman 9700 with a good base and contact.
Also, I'm seeing many unstable cores around. Don't game/use system if you stability test like some of you seem to be doing, leave Prime95 as the main highlghted window or your results will be errorful. Any core which is unstable shows stability in a few simple ways:
a) error output
b) system reboots
c) error/reboot on stopping prime test
d) runs through the calculations slower than is supposed to
e) core slows down compared to the rest. If P95 is left as the window in focus with nothing else taking up main CPU cycles then the core that is not working on the similar (close by) iteration/FFT length as others is faulty and unstable.
As a guide, by 9hours P95 small FFT @ 3600MHz 400FSB 1000-1066 RAM, all cores should be passed 28k and very near to passing 32k.
1.378V BIOS -> 1.376V Idle (1.362V DMM) -> 1.328V load (1.316V DMM) - fail on core 3 and passed on all othersQuote:
Originally Posted by KTE on 22/01/08
Since MB is already taken on a deal I can't mod it for vdrop and vdroop.
So I jumped the gap between 1.378V BIOS to 1.4V, mainly for time.
1.40V BIOS -> 1.392V Idle (1.386V DMM) -> 1.360V all loads/1.344V TAT load (1.354-358V/1.336-1.338V DMM)
MCH - +0.05V
FSB - +0.1V
9hrs Small FFT stable + high temps when using one total system fan
Linpack/TAT 1hr stable too
Idle - Load
http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/9...idlejl0.th.png - http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3...elowrl4.th.png
At current 28C ambient the 3hr+ smallFFT load temps are 75/75/71/72C. :(
I suspect it will be Linpack stable with less voltage too, somewhere in between 1.376V to 1.392V but no time to try yet. P95 small/large FFT stability is much less, near 1.32V load IMO. You can game or run anything at 1.29V idle without problems though since it's only core 3 which'll error if under max continuous load for over 3 hours at that voltage. 1.392V should also get 3.7G stable IMO, I'll test it soon. Temps will be a major problem though.
EDIT 13th Feb:
450x8=3600 1.376V/1.344V fully stable with P95 smallFFT (65/65/60/60 C)... unstable with SuperPrime/Linpack.
450x8=3600 1.392V/1.376V fully stable with P95 SF/SuperPrime/Linpack (high temps though)
3.74GHz unstable at 1.392 idle/1.376V load
Same all the way up to 1.452V idle.
Thus, the stable limit for this chip on air seems to be near 1.376-1.392V 36xxMHz.
Good move - if you want room in the case have a look at the Thermalright Ultima-90 I am using. Baby brother of the 120 extreme with good performance and a lot smaller footprint in the case.http://www.anandtech.com/casecooling...oc.aspx?i=3068 Stick a quality high CFM fan on it for best performance - 120 or 92mm. For air the 120 x is the best but this is pretty damn good!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kondik
If a tower 120 Extreme ... just to be sure, and for the CPU fans i preffer P12 Noctuas on a Zalman regulator i hate loud PC's .. had one ofr 2 yearsQuote:
Originally Posted by sesdave
Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho_eddie
In games mind like crysis doesnt even go over 50C!!
Shows how stressfull Prime is :shocked:
i got a L737A721, package date 10/18/07. It failed prime after 2 hours at 9*400 1.46v. Stock was 1.26. Need to get this thing stable. I want at least 3.6. any ideas.
Yes I would say that...my Q6600 @ 3.6ghz 1.288 vcore hits 50c @ prime and I found that already abit high.
Has anyone come to a conclusion on the best batches to look for... so far I looked around a little in this thread ands saw that the lower 737's seem good, how about some other good batches... what about 727?
I saw some week 40A / 45A /34B were pretty good, 3.6ghz with 1.30-1.33v. But u cant be sure before u test it and confirm it. I think the theory about the L737B with low number is true, altho mine was on the limiet, with 242 at the end....I took the bet and it was a beast of a cpu:up:
n00b question, so dont flame me
Intel Quad Core Q6600 ES (Engineering Sample) with Unlocked Multiplier
Is there such a thing and is it worth buying?
And if so what would be a max price tag?
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...ger/fbb7_1.jpg
Some one will probably delete your post. So delete it first before you do get flamed. It is illegal to sell ES chips. So there's no point asking anyone around here for a price.
I'm going to try a G0 this weekend. It's a L739A596 and this batch seems pretty good from KTE's reply on this page. I couldn't find any more info on this batch so I hope it's good.
I wonder if my Seasonic can hold a quad. Should I get a new PSU? :D
Easy... if you keep the 3870 at low MHz. ;) It's the cards that really draw massive power even idling when oc'd a little.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackoberst
I ran a 330W Seasonic S12 II with the Q6600 G0 I had :D
With a low end card though (HD 2600 XT) at stock (70W DC full card draw). Mainly because my 550W was taken up elsewhere but max load I had on mine was still sub 330W DC. Only at around 4GHz 1.46V Prime95 smallFFT (unstable), it reached 330W DC draw from the PSU which was 392W AC.
I am currently small FFT testing 1.376V idle/1.344V load, +0.05 vFSB, +0.05V vMCH, 450x8 (3600MHz) now and heat=power so as heat will rise, so will the power draw, and it's currently after 1hr 63/63/60/60C 22C ambient, one total system fan (Zalman 9700), topping out at 218W DC power draw. PSU is an Antec Earthwatts 430W (same internals as the Seasonic you have). Still 210W from the rated max.
If you go on water, the power draw will be less as the current leakage and electron resistence is far lower so less voltage will be needed for the same MHz. That's why water oc is not comparable to air, same as subzero isn't to water and so o.
Water is not an option now, I'll stick with air cooling. It's cold where I live, I have like -3C during day time so if I open the window, turn off the heat I get 5-6 degrees C ambient. :D I managed a suicide shot with my E6750 at 4400Mhz with this temps on air, not Pi 1MBstable, 3932Mhz actually stable :D
I'm keeping low Mhz for 24/7, but for benching at 985/1350 with my 3870 and an overclocked quad at 3800/4000Mhz, might be a problem I think. :(