Yeah mate, I'm re entering them from memory (my brain, lol). I'll give your suggestion a go, anythings worth a try to get this board going like it should. I have read other people have been having simialr problems with the new BIOS's.
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Yeah, I was up to f5* dont remember the exact ones but now Im back to straight up f4. Gives me the least trouble. Some of the f5s were causing my damn HD's to take 20s plus to initiate from the bios boot screen.
Im happy with f4, might try f6a but probably not :)
Yeah that's the experiance I've had. F4 seems to be the most stable.
Well I'll be buttered on both sides.. 20 x 200 (everything on auto) is stable on F6a :eek:
Hey. First post here -- thanks for everyone's help, I've been reading this thread since its inception and I don't think I would have been able to make 195x21 on my 920 without reading this. Kudos to everyone.
Anyway, I just wanted to say I can attest to the fact that F6A fixes the ability to run ET6 1224.1 on Vista 64 on my EX58-Extreme. Kept getting the MFC error on every BIOS revision until F6A. Now that I'm 24x7 stable at 4.095, I guess it doesn't matter much... great irony, that.
yup can confirm it DES and ET6 now works with vista ultimate x64, but s3 dont works as in the F5x, which is kinda of a deal breaker for me. :(
anyone else has problem with no resume from s3? (they only version that works for me is F4j, every other version dont resumes from S3 whie the system is oced.)
i just loaded f6a, no dual boots, i wasn't able to make it to windows with 20x200 w/ everything on auto.
2nd try, HT off, all the energy saver options off, 20x200, everything else auto: BSOD, 1 sec into windows.
3rd try, same as 2nd but 20x195, we'll see how stable this proves to be.
I am really interested in how godsfist got this to work, i am pushing similar hardware.
I think I was lucky and got some nice silicon, I'm running my CPU fan at only 800RPM on the TRUE 120 for absolute silence and only one other low RPM case fan for exhaust
I'm also only running 3GB of ram because I'm still using WinXp.. It's a bit trickier running 6GB as you are
I am sure that my voltage is a bit too high, but if i turn it down i get BSOD.
Bios F6a
base clock 200
multi x20
Vcore 1.41875v
QPI/Vtt (x36) 1.34v
ram (x8) 1.66v
CPU PLL 1.84
LLC on
HT off
Turbo on
suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My true is running max speed with dual fan, and my temps are 40-50 idle 58-68 load. The range is wide, because my room temperature varies a lot through out the day.
Those are some nice low voltage clocks, looks like another bios flash in my near future =) I'm afraid I wasn't as lucky with my CPU, it's a bit more volt hungry. I'm only at 190x20 (21 if you count turbo) so far with HT enabled, tested 10 runs cpu burn and 9.5 hours prime95 running 8 threads. I'm at 1.4 Vcore and 1.5 QPI/VTT, 1.64 memory so far on f5h, and I bluescreen instantly when I push it to 195. More voltage somewhere will help I'm sure. Another week or two of sporadic tinkering might get me a few more clocks, but at least I found a stable 24/7 clock I can run in the meantime. I had one of the old DFI 939 boards, so I know the value of patience :)
I gotta say though, these new Gigabyte boards are nice. I never bought a Gigabyte board until recently, when I picked up one of the P45 UD boards for a family member's system and it impressed me right out of the box. I've owned Asus, DFI, Intel, MSI, Biostar, and even ECS and they were all decent boards in their own ways; but this one has to rank up among my favorites of all time. I'm not sure if it can overtake my beloved Badaxe 2, but time will tell I guess.
CPU temp in the bios is about 5-10 degrees lower compared to realtemp, which one is more trust worthy, or neither?
The BIOS reports the real-time temperature, so, when you're in the BIOS there is absolutely no load on the CPU whatsoever. When you're in Windows though, there is a small load (and fluctuating load) along with all the other components that wouldn't have been doing anything at all while in BIOS. To make a long story short, RealTemp reads the die sensor output directly; thus, it reports whatever the sensors in each core are reading which is the exact same way that the BIOS reports temps. They should be equally reliable.
The bios is reading a different sensor then realtemp.
The i7 has multiple digital thermal sensors on die with tjmax read from the cpu. Realtemp reads tjmax and the sensors directly and reports the core temps correctly.
There is also a diode sensor between the cores read by chip sensor and calibrated by the bios, is subject to interference error, and not located to read any hot spots. It is calibrated by the bios to give a guess at IHS temp, but since it is not located at IHS it will always be either off at idle or at load. It is the cpu temp in everest and speedfan, it will always be a lower temp than core temps, and less accurate.
thanks fellows.
if my cpu is running below 50 on idle and below 70 on load, is that safe for 24/7 or is it going to kill my cpu in short time.
during night my temps drop a good 5-10 degrees.
on second thought - 50 idle seems a bit odd - are you running high v's?
First I would like to thanks everyone here for sharing all your experience and tips on this board :up:
I setup my build last night and first thing I did was flash to Bios F6a, no problems works great.
Right now I am running LinX for 30 mins (and counting) temps are 56-56-55-54, HT off, everything on auto running 20x195, 3.9GHz.
Scythe MUGEN-2 with push/pull Cooler Master 120x25 (A12025-12CB-4KN-L1) idle temps around 34c (room temp guessing ~20c or lower)
CPUz CPU voltage reads 1.344, very happy with this chip so far, I wonder how high I can push it.
lol spoke to soon, rebooted and beeps all over the place and the system shutdown and got overclocking error, very strange.
I rebooted to change things to manual and didn't get that far.
Well will work my way back up trying the 19x
Does someone have 6 memory installed on this card desks here?
technut, you tweak any of the other voltages yet? could shave some vcore for ya