"ASUS P5Q Deluxe discussion".

I need some explanation on these settings.

1. FSB Strap to north Bridge
FSB at 333 and FSB Strap at 333 gives me:
1:1 (667MHz), 5:6 (800MHz), 5:8 (1066MHz)
FSB at 333 and FSB Strap at 400 gives me:
1:1 (666MHz), 6:8 (887MHz), 2:3 (999MHz)

Is use only 1:1 and 5:6, 5:6 is no problem as it only works with strap 333, but which is better for 1:1, 333 or 400?

2. DRAM Static Read Control: Auto/Disabled/Enabled, currently on Disabled

3. DRAM Read Training: Auto/Disabled/Enabled, currently Auto

4. MEM. OC Charger: Auto/Disabled/Enabled, currently Auto

5. AI Clock Twister: Auto/Lighter/Light/Moderate/Strong/Stronger, currently Auto

6. CPU Spread Spectrum: Auto/Disabled, currently Auto

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leeghoofd

Think this is good to start with mate :

CPU Voltage: 1.400
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.56
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.3
DRAM Voltage: 1.9
NB Voltage: 1.26
NB GTL Reference: AUTO
SBridge Voltage: AUTO
PCIE SATA Voltage: AUTO

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Thanks!!! You are awesome!! You helped me get stable at 3.2ghz and now I am hoping to get 3.4...if you read my post from the last two pages you can see that I tried for 3.6ghz after lapping and that was a no go because at over 1.46vcore my ambient room temps are still to high to keep my temps down, but at 1.4 I am still in the safe zone under 65C even when it is really hot....Thanks again, I am about to punch this in and see how it does:clap:


Edit: One thing I have been wondering is that if the Tj.Max of 100C is correct for my Q6700? Core temp auto set the tj max to 100 when I got it but have not really checked into that to make sure it was correct

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gr1mR34p3r

I need some explanation on these settings.

1. FSB Strap to north Bridge
Is use only 1:1 and 5:6, 5:6 is no problem as it only works with strap 333, but which is better for 1:1, 333 or 400? Normally lower strap is faster, but needs to be verified on each board regarding stability, max clocks etc...

2. DRAM Static Read Control: Auto/Disabled/Enabled, currently on Disabled Enabled gives more bandwith, but I advise to disable at first , try to find stability and then to tweak... but enabled is faster

3. DRAM Read Training: Auto/Disabled/Enabled, currently Auto can help for higher ram clocks and stability, bios says it all

4. MEM. OC Charger: Auto/Disabled/Enabled, currently Auto same remark a above

5. AI Clock Twister: Auto/Lighter/Light/Moderate/Strong/Stronger, currently Auto I haven't noticed much difference between Stronger and Strong... I set at AUTO first then go to Moderate, test everything and then try stronger, if ya having ram issues or incompatabilities some set Light or even Lighter

6. CPU Spread Spectrum: Auto/Disabled, currently Auto General rule to Disable when OC'ing

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Hope it helps, words from an end User not a bios expert, nor engineer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PortCitySlim

Edit: One thing I have been wondering is that if the Tj.Max of 100C is correct for my Q6700? Core temp auto set the tj max to 100 when I got it but have not really checked into that to make sure it was correct

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TJcasemax is 100 for 65nm Quads.. so correct...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RejZoR

Though i was thinking of making switch by myself so i'd just have to press it to clear CMOS. Not sure if mouse micro switch would be good since it's impulsive switch.

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Thats what I do, i just took a reset button and lead from an old case and plugged into the cmos clear and put the switch through the back of my case. If i need to clear cmos I just hold it down - works a treat.

It's not like you can't shut it down with a PSU switch... don't tell me enthusiasts don't use PSU's... Clear CMOS is far more useful if it was done with switch instead crappy jumper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leeghoofd

CPU Voltage: 1.400
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL Voltage Reference (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL Voltage: 1.56
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.3
DRAM Voltage: 1.9
NB Voltage: 1.26
NB GTL Reference: AUTO
SBridge Voltage: AUTO
PCIE SATA Voltage: AUTO

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Weird thing happened here when I tried OCCT ram test at this setting after passing about an hour of small fft's. About 15mins into the ram test windows blue screened and crashed, not sure if that is because my vcore is to low or the NB and FSB voltages, weird to me because usually when windows crashes like that it is within seconds from loading the stress test and since I just passed about an hour under small fft's I don't know what to make of it.

On my p5q-e,i did 500x6 with my ram at 1:1,i thought that 1:1 did not work on these boards.Also i tried running at stock(333fsb) with my ram on the 400 divider at 887(or summat) and it worked fine,a friend has a p5q-pro and it does not work on his board at the same settings,he cant get the 400 divider to work,any idea why not.

Ta

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PortCitySlim

Weird thing happened here when I tried OCCT ram test at this setting after passing about an hour of small fft's. About 15mins into the ram test windows blue screened and crashed, not sure if that is because my vcore is to low or the NB and FSB voltages, weird to me because usually when windows crashes like that it is within seconds from loading the stress test and since I just passed about an hour under small fft's I don't know what to make of it.

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are you working at 3.4Ghz now or still at 3.2 ?

Try a bit more ram voltage first... eg 1.94 and see if it lasts longer if that doesn't help... set back to original value and try some more NB voltage... it is really hard to work out a setting, some dimms, mobo's require more volts than others... I'm fine up to 500FSB with 1.28 Nb voltage, some need 1.3 or more... it just could be that the CPU needs a bit more Vcore , could be something else... only thing you can do is to avoid changing all values at once...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leeghoofd

are you working at 3.4Ghz now or still at 3.2 ?

Try a bit more ram voltage first... eg 1.94 and see if it lasts longer if that doesn't help... set back to original value and try some more NB voltage... it is really hard to work out a setting, some dimms, mobo's require more volts than others... I'm fine up to 500FSB with 1.28 Nb voltage, some need 1.3 or more... it just could be that the CPU needs a bit more Vcore , could be something else... only thing you can do is to avoid changing all values at once...

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Working on 3.4ghz...First thing I did was a slight bump in vcore from 1.400 to 1.406 and that has lasted much longer, at 1hour now on OCCT Ram test. Gonna leave it here if that passes and do a final 24hour blend with prime95. Thanks:)


Edit: OCCT Ram test lasted 1h30min before failing but at least it didn't blue screen this time, I think the extra vcore helped but I still gonna try boosting ram voltage before actually raising the vcore again, I might need to run a longer overnight cpu test to make sure my vcore is stable then try more with Ram, NB and FSB voltages. My ram is a bit overclocked so I might need slightly above 1.9v for it to be rock stable, was hoping 1133mhz would run smooth at 1.9 and maybe it will just got to find out whether its the vcore,ram,NB or FSB voltages causeing the problem. Thanks for your help again Leeghoofd, I will update ya tomorrow with what I find out.

Edit#2: Another thing I did do recently was change my SATA configuration to AHCI from IDE, not sure if that messed anything up but I did all that before I ever tried for 3.4ghz and was still stable at 3.2ghz after the switch...btw, I have just one HD and CD drive that is SATA and they are connected with red SATA cable, switching to AHCI does help me right?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RejZoR

It's not like you can't shut it down with a PSU switch... don't tell me enthusiasts don't use PSU's... Clear CMOS is far more useful if it was done with switch instead crappy jumper.

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:clap::rolleyes::ROTF:

How do you turn it ON with the PSU switch? I dont see many switching PSUs these days unless they are they total generic crap and old.

XS is really something today:shakes:

How do i turn it on? I switch it to "ON" and PC starts. I can also make it never start even if current is detected, every board has that unless they are total generic crap and old...

What the hell. I place ASUS P5Q Dlx supplied dics into drive and nothing happens. I can't even open this damn thing manually. It just throws the disc out and says i should insert a disc. WTF!? All other DVD's work fine. Stupid junk...

Can someone make me a copy of this damn thing and upload it somewhere?

wow someone is acting very childish today

Don't like pwr reset buttons then buy something different.


did you put the disc in upside down??? :shrug: :rofl::ROTF:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RejZoR

What the hell. I place ASUS P5Q Dlx supplied dics into drive and nothing happens. I can't even open this damn thing manually. It just throws the disc out and says i should insert a disc. WTF!? All other DVD's work fine. Stupid junk...

Can someone make me a copy of this damn thing and upload it somewhere?

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Just down the required components from Asus website mate (download section) eg only expressgate is already 360mb... all the drivers you need are on the homepage

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...l=P5Q%20Deluxe

So, does anyone think my board is defective or is it something else?

Hey guys. I know this is mostly a P5Q-Deluxe thread but I'm having trouble overclocking my memory on a P5Q-E. If anyone thinks they can help please see my post in the P5Q-E thread. Thanks!
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=130

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iboomalot

wow someone is acting very childish today

Don't like pwr reset buttons then buy something different.


did you put the disc in upside down??? :shrug: :rofl::ROTF:

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Yeah sure, i'm not that dumb... the disc is just defective it appears.
Anyone remember sif MyLogo is a part of Ai Suite or is it a stand alone application? Doesn't seem to be available alone in download section...

OMG this board has Express Gate SSD!!!!!!!!! :shock:
that means you can boot into linux instantly without installing any hard drives!
best backup solution everz!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BigJoe

This is premium
http://www.tcmagazine.com/comments.php?shownews=19976

As you can see, more SATA2 ports and CrossLinx chip :)

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But what is the CrossLinx for? deluxe and premium both only do 8x and 8x PCIE when in crossfire, right? :shrug:


I'm in love with this board,
is there any reason I should get DFI LanParty LT X38-T2R or Gigabyte GA-X38-DS4 or DFI LP LT X48-T2R instead? (not even planning to crossfire)

Improvements such as?

Still trying pick which board I want...this, the Biostar I45, the DFI DK P45...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sxs112

Sorry 1101 Beta Bios there

ASUS P5Q-E 1101 Beta Bios
[1101]
----------------------

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Is this the "best" and most stable bios for the P5Q-E?

I know this isn't anything special but i just couldn't resist doing it since the feature is there... Anyone knows this chick? Hehe...

http://shrani.si/t/1S/aE/3l7sMMaR/boots.jpg

RejZoR- that's freaking awezum

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timbosan

the premium offers some extra improvements.

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2 more Sata ports (10 vs 8 total), one more PCIE (4 vs 3 total), 2 more lan ports (4 vs 2 total)
premium seems like a waste :shrug:

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/2028/32885799xa8.png
source

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timbosan

The DFI LT X38 is expensive, and if I was going to spend that much I'd get a Striker or a Maximus. The DFI X48 is really expensive, but they make some fantastic gear.

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The DFI LP LT X48-T2R is only $45 more, and DFI LanParty LT X38-T2R is only $30 more than the ASUS P5Q Deluxe, I just wanna future-proof myself, and don't know what to choose. $200 or $250 does not make a difference for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KoHaN69

2 more Sata ports (10 vs 8 total), one more PCIE (4 vs 3 total), 2 more lan ports (4 vs 2 total)
premium seems like a waste :shrug:

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The price quoted for the Premium is a little off, Newegg has them for $259.

Quote:

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The DFI LP LT X48-T2R is only $45 more, and DFI LanParty LT X38-T2R is only $30 more than the ASUS P5Q Deluxe, I just wanna future-proof myself, and don't know what to choose. $200 or $250 does not make a difference for me.

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With a completely new platform comming out at the end of the year, anything you buy now wont exactly be future proof if your in it for shear performance. This holds even moreso if your buying a chipset that supports DDR2 as DDR3 just keeps getting faster and faster.
I've owned both x38/x48 DFI boards and if your considering either I'd suggest the x48 but just be prepared to have to work for your OC. If your going over to x5(whatever) some time 1st/2nd quarter of next year then I'd just go with the P5Q-D and have some fun for the next 6 months or so OCing and gaming like a fool. Stay away from the Formula II. I bought one from the Egg a week or so ago and its flaky. I'm already RMAing mine for another and Newegg is not refunding money on them.

KoHaN69: that chart from techarp has some mistakes in it. The only board with WiFi-AP@n is the P5Q3-Deluxe (that chart also lists the Premium, Deluxe, and E).

I think I would rather take a formula II then a premium...