get to it
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get to it
Got a little uhm...interrupted with the progress of the cooling tower
the last few days, had a few mates drop by for Christmas
drinks (as if we need an excuse for a beer LoL) Anywhoo..
I went out this morning and got a few screens made for the upright tube
and the air intake tube to protect the fan from any 'wayward'
water that might splash up -->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_10.jpg
Click here for fullsize pics
I also finished the bracket for the shower head, adding a little extra
piece of plexi for support, have also drilled and tapped it ready to be fitted.
...next i shall finish the fan mounting off, and I have the intake and
outlet bracket (for lines to and from pc) to be made...then I think i am
done, I can then get to assembling it for testing...
Back soon with another update :-)
I really wish I could make a mini bong. I would get a 2.120mm heatercore, a bunch of cheapass plastic plates, and tons of silicone, like a 15 dollar tube they use to put in windows. Hope everything is going all right. OH and btw, since you have so many tools, aussiejester, you might be able to make your own showerhead type thing. Take some kind of piece of thin material, like plexi or something, or just a scrap leftover from something else, then use a tiny drill bit to put tons of holes through it. After like 2 hours, you'll have like a 200 hole thing. You could make a box for it, then have a tube go into it. It takes tons of work but might work very well. Just a thought. I'm not the expert here, so do whatever you like. Its looking good, btw:)
Decided to test a few things out tonight, I assembled the
bottom of the cooling tower and hooked up the mains to
test out the float system, I also modified the shower head,
using the original tower specs as a reference, I closed the
inner holes of the shower head leaving 42 holes.
Turned out to be a blessing as the plexi used will house
"some" LED"s" that will hopefully light the falling water :-P
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_11.jpg
click here for full size pics
I have also pressed the bottom of the shower head in, making it concave,
this was to help the water direction, standard it sprays outward like
so / \ I have also drilled out the holes with a 1/16th drill bit, this combined
with the 're-shaping' of the surface has bought the water fall
to a much more acceptable | | column...
I have my best mates missus birthday to gotto tomorrow so
I doubt there will be an update till Sunday sometime...
I think I will have the tower togther and running then, I also tested
the bottom tonight (the dunny float) and it worked magic, very
impressed.
Back soon people...
You might wanna put a weak 120mm at the top of the whole thing, so dust doesn't get in as easily.
What is a "weak 120mm" ??
The top of the outlet will have a similar arrangement to the intake... minimal dust will be getting in I can assure you.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185024 This is a weak fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieJester
thats a 100mm :D
never heard about that
yate loon sl can be considered "weak" i suppose, although it's not really that bad. 47cfm for 28db at 12v. And you can undervolt to 7v which I suppose would make it weaker and quieter if you so desire
This forum loves yate loons, might as well go with the trend:) I'm getting them today:)Quote:
Originally Posted by ziddey
OH and BTW, if I was building a bong, I would put tons of fan filters:) and put a fan at the top to prevent dust from collecting.Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
And you dont think the fact that the moist air going through an electric fan at the top of a bong would be a problem serialk11r :-S
Unfortunately Polytech Plastic (the company i buy all my acrylic perspex from) are closed till the 15th of January 07 so I wont be able to do anything more until i can get down and pickup the meter of 100mm OD clear perspex tube for the upright of the cooler. I have tested it over the Christmas period with the pvc (not hooked to pc however) and it works brilliantly. The float mechanism is perfect keeps the water at a constant level. I shall take this time to run the poly lines from the mains water to under my pc desk and paint the bottom of the tower. Shall report back when complete.
Thanks for the comments from those that have followed this thread...
Back soon
title... so... misleading...
Cant wait to see some final results frpom you AussieJester.
Unfortunately neither do I have the time nor space to get a bong cooler done, so I will have to delay the build :/
Well you wont have to wait much longer, PolyTech Plastics (the supplierQuote:
Originally Posted by Fr3ak
I buy ALL my Acrylic Plexi from is now open after
long shut down over Christmas so...
I ventured down to visit Ian at Polytech Plastics today
(would link website but it appears to be down :-S ) So here's their contact info-->
Polytech Plastics
Unit 12 6 Hayley Street Maddington
Ph (0 8 ) 9493 0300 if calling within Australia
ph +61 8 9493 0300 when calling outside OZ
Anywayz... I now have the last 'part' for my evap tower-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp..._plexi_pic.jpg
Now...i would love to tellz ya all what Ian the LEGEND
charged me for all this plexi but i would have to kill you :-P
Will just say..was ALOT LOT less than i was quoted for
the 100mm pipe when I called before Christmas :-)
Thanks Ian your a champ ;-) The clear tube is
110mm x5mm x1000mm the big square is as Ian
put it 'an offcut' lol...its 20mm x300mm x400mm for
memory the smaller pieces are scrap 10mm ill use for
waterblock tops and were out of the scrap bin...
Will be out tomorrow (can't do anything today one dayer
Cricket match on Australia V's England is on in 10 minutes :-P )
But I will have a pretty good go at having it finished by end
of the weekend I think :-)
That tube must've cost you a fortune... I would've used black ABS pipe on the bottom, more environmentally friendly, more shock resistant, and color matches better:D
Im only on page 4 of the thread, right where it starts talking about height. This seems like something I could/would try on spring break away from college (assuming I dont go anywhere).
I was thinking... someone said that bong height didnt matter as long as you had droplets forming before the resevoir at the bottom. WHat do you guys think the effect would be if the showerhead was situated so that it sprayed the water onto the walls of the pipe/bong, and the water flowed down the sides of the pipe? Wouldnt that be more surface area, or close?
Is there a definative answer on whether its better or not to submerge or even have a heatercore/rad/dual loop with a bong? I have 2 of what seem to be oil coolers for cars, here and here are pics of one of them. The tubing seems to be 3/8ID, so that would murder flow. The holes are almost perfect to mount a 120mm fan. My friend and I are going to try and do this as cheaply a possible, so if we have to buy a rad, that would defeat the purpose and we would jsut go straight to regular watercooling.
What sort of pump do we need for the shower head, assuming we do seperate lloops? Just something with enough head to get the water up to the shower head with enough flow to make it work?
Anyone have some dimensions that are known to work, or is it just trial and error?
There would be more surface area I think if the droplets were falling through the air, not against the walls. And remember the water will be in contact with some dust particles (more if you don't put fan filters on, personally I'd throw in like double 120mm fans undervolted, and triple fan filters like the really thick ones that kill airflow, and throw in a heatercore or rad or something at the bottom to make it dual stage, because I don't think anyone would want dust collecting inside their loop).Quote:
Originally Posted by Polizei
I swear you only look at pictures.Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Acrylic plexi pipe I priced before christmas (100mm OD only) was AU$125 I got 110mm for ALOT less.. $AU80 that included the 20mm thick piece for the base.
Why would i need ABS pipe? Why does it have to be shock resistant on a bong tower? What harm is this pvc doing to the environment in a bong filter? Its used in EVERY new house built in Australia for the plumbing... The base clear plexi is to be sandwiched between to 3mm pieces of black plexi and the clear 20mm lit with 4 ultrabright LEDS...could i also do that with ABS?
Got to work on the modifications to the evap cooling tower
today. Required making a couple more brackets for the
brass fittings and of course cutting the 20mm plexi.
Here's a few pics of the progress-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_12.jpg
Click here for fullsize pics
So...as it stands now all fittings are complete and holes
drilled in tower for mounting the brackets, tomorrow
I shall cut the black acrylic for the base (will sandwhich the
clear plexi) And run all the wires for the leds and fan.
I want to mill out a channel in the 20mm plexi and lay the
wiring in it prior to cementing the black plexi in place.
The fan wire will run internall als0...hopefully when done
no wiring will be visiable at all...yes I HATE wiring being visible
tiz a pet hate....Back tomorrow with update :-)
Great work so far. I am still following it. Depending on what temps you get I think I will give a bong cooler a go aswell :)
But it wont be that professional hehe
Thumbs up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr3ak
Cheers mate :-)
I don't think my temps are going to be anything out of the ordinary though, all the 'fancy' crap aside its still just a bong cooler and they have been proven performers :-) I suggest grabbing 30 bucks and hitting the hardware for some pvc pipe and knocking one up either way buddy, very cheap to build a basic cooler even this one of mine with all the 'extras' was ~120 bucks (not including the clear plexi)
I will have to come up with a plan first.
Looks like I will be placing it somewhere outside or in the garage, paired with a powerful pump if that is possible at all.
I have a very small room and this thing would be used for 24/7 running PCs, so it would be a good idea not to have it in my living room.
Its definatly a good performer money wise, considering you dont need a rad. Ok you need to fill it with water, but I guess you could even use plain water depending on the water quality. Of course you would have to clean the system from time to time, but with low restrictive blocks, that shouldnt be much of a prob.
I your puting it outside Fr3ak hook it to the mains water like i'm doing, via a toilet float it will maintan a constant level automatically thus negating the need for regular 'top ups'
As for using 'tap water' as long as its not brown murky crap IMO its not a prob, I have been watercooling best part of 5 years now and have used nothing but tap water mixed with additive in my loops and have not had any negative effects whatsoever.
Running one of these in a small closed room would soon turn it into a green house environment LoL...
I will most likely just give a few good squirts of Harpic (toilet cleaner) in the cooler every week. Have used Harpic in my watercooling for good 12 months its the best I have seen in keeping system gunk free and tubes clear.
Anywayz...best of luck with it if yoiu go ahead, be sure to post pics if you get it happening so others can get ideas from it :-)
OK...not quite as much done today as planned but
I did get a good start on the base-->
http://www.myfoto.com.au/Photo/snapp...ies_pic_13.jpg
Click here for fullsize pic
All thats left to do is fit 3 blue Ultra bright LEDS to the back
and finish wet sanding the clear plexi .
For the sake of the pic and obviously to get an idea of what
it will look like when finished I sat a single LED at the back
of the base and snapped a pic :-)
Shall finish the base up and begin painting the tower tomorrow,
as usually, black epoxy FTW
Ciao for now