Solution for Running High FSB on NF7-S with 333FSB CPU's

Whoops I didn't see Pilot6's earlier post. I just figured this out on my asus the other night. Sorry for missing that.

So I guess the NF7 doesn't have jumpers for older processors. On the asus that this jumper switch ties into memory performance. 166 brings failure at 196fsb, while jumpering down let's memory fly past the 220's. This is testing with Memtest86. When I contacted Corsair to resind a RMA they seemed surprised by all of this. Btw, I'm only on air so I'd expect you guys to see much higher numbers and be gentle with me.

I'm trying to figure out where the 333 fix will be coming from. Seems like it's a bios thing but being a cross manufacturer issue makes me wonder why nvidia isn't doing something about it.

I just finished cutting the L12 but sadly it made no difference. I can't even run 185FSB stable. I really don't know what the problem is. My specs are...
XP2600+
Asus A7N8X
Corsair XMS 512Mb PC3200 DDR
Dangerden WaterCooling
(cpublock,nbcooler)
Geforce2 Pro

I was trying to run the comp at an FSB of 190 in sync with the RAM
and it wouldn't even load into windows. My VCore is 1.825 and RAM Voltage is 2.7

The only thing I think it could be is the Video card but I need someone to confirm this for me.
:confused:

Are you sure you cut the 3rd bridge completely? If I had it to do over I would use the 2 wires running from a 9 volt battery to short it out technique.

But after you cut the bridge and cleared the CMOS, what did you native FSB come up as?

I know I did it right because the FSB came up at 133Mhz and it said XP2000 instead of XP2600. I have been thinking all night and still can't figure out what is causing it to not run stable.
All help would be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone done this mod and then put it in a KX7-333R? I lose stability at 190 on my board. It will load windows at 198 but won't even bench prime at that speed. It will boot at 201 but won't make windows. I have the 2600+/333 Day to day stuff will run at 195 but it won't run prime.

Does a T-Bread 1700+ Need to be L12 MODDED?

Does a T-Bread 1700+ Need to be L12 MODDED?

Only l3 for 13x and up (I think, need a refresh on this).

L12 is for 166fsb default processors.

Well I'm pleased to say that you can add another success story to the list. I tried doing this with the 9volt method that was mentioned 3 times with no success. But about an hour ago I decided to cut the bridge. It's a 2600 (333) recognized as a 2000 now. :D

The most I was able to get out of this chip before I did this was 179x13. Now I'm running at 196x12 and climbing. I think this chip is about topped out at this speed but I'm hoping I can hit 200x12. Great find you guys. :banana:

people, people, people, in order to blow the bridges using the voltage method you have to use either a brand new 9v or the 5v line from your power supply, You also have to scratch the tops of the dots because they have a coating on them that keeps you from getting a good enough contact to get enough current to flow to blow the bridge... Once scratched the bridge will pop just like a overpowered fuse...

can you send me a photo of how to do this mod? with the battery trick?

thank you in advance :)

i got the epox 8rda* and xp2600 and want to turn up the multiplyer will it do this but cutting the bridge?

if that mod turns your 2700+ into a 2000+ why not just get a 2000+ and oc to 2700 speed ? are 2700+ just overclocked 2000+ ? cause i have a 2700+ and can only do 2.4ghz. with high temps 50c+. and i see 2400+ and 1700+ doing even more then me.

:rolleyes:


awds: the mod changes the CPU's default FSB from 166 to 133. this might help to overcome stability issues when going beyond 185orso mhz FSB. after cutting the bridge, you simply change the FSB to fit your needs (a higher fsb).


there is one thing I still don't get. what is the cause of this strange problem ? BIOS issue ? one fine day, might there be a bios release to adress that problem so ppl don't have to hack their CPU ?

did I post BS..?

I wonder why nobody is replying anymore :/

Quote:

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Originally posted by WarDodo
did I post BS..?

I wonder why nobody is replying anymore :/

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Prolly because afaik nobody knows for certain what causes this problem. We just know that the fix works...:)

I read several posts where people stated that changing the CPU_FSB jumper on the mobo to the lowest setting solved the stability issue for them. It didn't work for me though..

tomorrow is the day of truth. I'll slice the L12 =) wish me luck ! I usually am quite clumsy.. but I compensate with caution ;)

That is supposed to work on the Asus board yes. But other boards don't have that jumper. Just did this operation myself yesterday on my 2600+ and it increased my max stable fsb from 185 to 217 on my NF7 1.2. :D

*edit* Oops, forgot to wish you luck! ;)

If you're interested, I originally wanted to do this with the battery method, but those contacts are a LOT smaller than they look in the pics! After trying and failing for half an hour I gave up and used a modelling knife instead. Just put the point between the two dots and rock it back and forth a few times with medium pressure. No need to actually move the point. Worked first time! :)

and I still wonder why the CPU_FSB jumper trick didn't do anything to get higher speeds for me :/
can somebody post a nice high-res pic of a cut L12 bridge ? I'd like to see how deep the cut has to be. thanks already ;) :toast:

My crappy camera is no good for close up shots, sorry. :(

It really doesn't have to be deep at all, look at the other bridges that are laser cut for an idea. Better to err on the side of caution and try again if it doesn't work first time.

I cut my bridge the same way as MrLavender did. I used a small hobby knife, pressed gently, and rocked it a little. It does not need to be deep...the bridge is right near on the surface of the subtrate.

I was on the conservative side so it took me two trys:)

Quote:

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Originally posted by mdzcpa
I cut my bridge the same way as MrLavender did. I used a small hobby knife, pressed gently, and rocked it a little. It does not need to be deep...the bridge is right near on the surface of the subtrate.

I was on the conservative side so it took me two trys:)

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Mike,

Hows the 2700+ doing for you now?? Isn't there a jumper on your nforce board?

I have a new rev 1.1 8rda+ with vdd mod and h/s's on everything.

Can't I just change the jumper to achieve the same as doing the bridge cut? I need to know before I put everything back in the prometeia.

Right now my 24/7 is 217mhz x 12 for a bit over 2.6ghz. It runs 220 great, but I like to keep my voltage under 1.95v so I've struck the balance.

I need the vdd mod to go further. Tried that on SUnday, but my NB became too warm. So I'll give that a shot after the NB water block comes.

Although I never messed with that jumper on the 8RDA+ with a 333mhz CPU, I beleive that the 133/166 jumper is what you need and is equivalent to a cut bridge for 333mhz CPUs.

My NF7 v1.2 does not have the jumper. But the regular procedure is quite effective none the less. I was even kinda shocked at the difference it made.

Thanx for your imput mike, I will try the jumper first as I don't want to kill the chip warranty just yet.

Quote:

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Originally posted by mike.elmes
Thanx for your imput mike, I will try the jumper first as I don't want to kill the chip warranty just yet.

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A wise move indeed:)