I think it's already fine tuork, just let it sit in a warm place and dry for a few days. Don't use a hair dryer because you could actually damage it more that way by making it too hot.
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I think it's already fine tuork, just let it sit in a warm place and dry for a few days. Don't use a hair dryer because you could actually damage it more that way by making it too hot.
Yeah, I did'nt want to use the hairdryer because it was too hot and I had to hold a button to cool the air. There was no temp modifier. Or it was hot, or it was cold.
My 80mm Tornado actually had more airflow than the hairdryer :p: . This fan is crazy.
I may use the hairdryer on the cables for a while since they are more heat resistant. Wont have it too long because my cable sleeving could start to melt :p:
I have a problem putting the watter in. I get a lot of air bubbles wile the pump loops the watter. Im guessing you just let the pump on, let the T line cap off, and fill the T line about 2" from the T fittings so the bubbles get out from the open T line and are replaced by the 2" of water reserve.
EDIT: nm :D Now its free from bubbles :).
Problem was that the Monster core is too big and I had it standing up with the tubes on the side. I had to lay it down and move it in different directions so it fills with water so the air inside of it comes out.
One thing bothers me the most now. You guys said I shouldnt tighten the fitting too much, but this is how it looks right now:
http://img74.echo.cx/img74/9097/pump2uy.gif
Am I ok, or will this be a problem in the future :confused:
Finally!
Im done with the hardware part of my build. :)
Looks like my HD is alive. :banana: Got woried it would have some water beneath the chip where the SATA cables go.
I ran my PC and I wasnt really impressed with the temps from the BIOS.
It says:
CPU: 35 C
Chipset: 45 -50 C
Ambien temp at that time was 21 C
I was expecting al least 30 C on CPU.
Are these temps right w/ a Monster core?
I havent done any BIOS flashes yet.
I also have problems setting up Win XP.
When it satarts scanning for hardware, I get the "Blue Screen Of Death".
I also noticed that my PC runs really slow (specially at boot)
Im guessing I have to flash the BIOS first, and then add some drivers on before Win XP finishes scanning for hardware (pressing F6).
Please guide me to the process of instalation of my OS and a stable system.
Turok
You need to give the system time to settle, get all the bubbles out, let the TIM cure, etc. Your temps will improve. If they don't I'd agree that something may be wrong. However you have yet to look at your load temps. If you are at 40c or below, you know it's working.
Interresting stuff :)
Ill look for improvements.
BTW, whats TIM? :p:
Right now I have to figure out how to run Windows. Is thsi common with DFI boards on the first time its runned?
I just need a BIOS flash, right?
Turok
T.I.M. = Thermal Interface Material you are most likely not using one. A factory AMD heatsink has one. You are using thermal paste correct? I see very little temp change due to burning in. Your temps seem fine. The most important thing is how high your load temps are. Also I would re-seat your cpu if you believe that the temps are to high. A miss seated water-block is are with A64 but I guess it could happen. One thing to make sure of is to not use to much thermal paste. Just a small amount in the center of the cpu. When the water-block is applied the paste will spread to a thin coat and you will get the best temps.
As for the blue creen of death durning bootup. That is most likely due to two things.
One: bad hardware.
Two: Bios related. Some of the new AMD cores require a bios flash to run properly. I built a venice (Rev E) core + DFI SLI-DR and got blue screens until I flashed to one of the beta bioses. Now it runs perfectly. I believe it was bios 416. (I will have to check) The bios was for TCCD ram and the venice core. (Your XL Pro is TCCD)
Yes, Im using AS5.
I applyed about 2 grans of rice and tighted real good. A bit whent to the sides when tightening.
Im going to use the 5.10-1 BIOS that I got on the "DFI bug fixes" thread
Hope this works.
Turok
When applying AS5, you should always spread it out evenly before applying the heatsink/waterblock.
Oh and TIM is everything from thermal tape, epoxy, thermal pads, and thermal paste.
yeah, I used my school ID to spread it evenly :D
(a quick off topic question)
BTW, is the MX 1000 still the best mouse for gaming?
Ive seen other mouses come afther the laser tech from the logitech MX1000, but is any of them better?
I still think the MX 1000 is the best because its wireless and it has a good design that grips on your hand, and I dont think psi's over the MX 1000 will improve aim. Its like comparing 30 fps with 60 fps. No difference.
The MX1000 is not a good mouse for gaming at all from the reviews. It's actually worse than the MX700 for gaming. I use the MX510, but the MX518 is out and I'll probably use my warranty to get that.
i prefer my mx1000 for gaming as opposed ot the mx700, its lighter and defo mroe responsiveQuote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
mx700 had noticeable lag compared to a wired mouse
of course this is all my opinion, no right or wrong here
Why is it worst?
Isnt it more acurate?
I have a MX 1k for this PC (the old PC) but need to get a mouse for my new build, so I would like to know whats the best for getting those headshots :D
BTW, I think my MX 1000 is really good for gaming. Very acurate (for me). I havent gone though the MX series. The MX 1k is my first MX mouse, so I dont know for sure if its the best
MX518 + Icemat rev 2, Steelpad qct+ or another smooth and big game pad. Logitech mice dont like hard mousepads like ratpadz. I personally use my MX510 with a $1 staples pad and I do fine hehe, get 3|1 ratios in cs: source most of the time now. :D
I use the Xtrac pro mouse mads.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Very cheap, smooth, and effective. Looks nice too.
Do you know a good review supporting this?
A review that shows that the MX1000 isnt that good for gaming and another showing how the MX 518 runs
Turok
Was looking arround and people say the MX 518 is better because of USB speed.
The MX 510/518 have a refresh rate of 1000 Hz wile the MX 1k has a refresh rate of 125 Hz.
This is a tough one since the MX 1k is wireless.
Impressive stuff. The MX 518 has 1600 dpi wile the MX 1k has 800dpi. Is this whole laser thing just a showoff?
:slapass: :nono:
How much does the MX 518 weigh compared to the MX, and is the cord light and thin and easy to move arround or can it be anoying.
BTW, how about the Razor mouses? I like the fact that they have laser tech, and red LED lights, but dont know if the grip of the mouse and the cord may come to a disadvantage.
Please help me decide :confused:
Turok
my mouse mat is a 44x30cm teflon baking sheet from sainsburys, cost me £3
taped the edges down to the desk and is a perfect surface for my mouse, about 1mm or less in thickness so doesnt raise your rist from the table
any Uk'ers about i suggest the baking sheet over a £20+ pad like the icemat
heres what it looks like:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSCF0133.jpg
ok, I decided go to with the MX 518.
You where right EnJoY, the MX 518 is way better :up:
The only disadvantage I see on the MX 518 is the cord, but anywait its long and light enough to leave a trail of cable on the front for spontanious mobility.
Im thinking on updating to a larger Xtrac mouse pad.
Im thinking on getting the Xtrac Ripper XL because it matches my black theme and its huge.
I have a question
What are the advantages and disadvantages of having:
1) A thin, flexible, smooth cloth (plastic I think) + MX 518
2) A hard, flat, smooth surface + wax + MX 518
If you use a hard, thick grained mouse pad like some of the steel pads or ratpadz...you'll need mouse gliders, or mouse feet as they call them for the MX mouse, as otherwise the little soft pads will catch on the hard surface of the pad and actually make for worse movement and it will ruin your mouse.
I personally like smooth optical mousing surfaces, like Steel Pad's QCT+.
back to WC, I have a question about my zerex fluid.
I mixed exactly 5% on my distilled mixture and it has a really light red.
I see people here with a more redish color.
Shoudl I add more zerex? If I need more zerex, how can I add it without draining mytubes?
Im quessing I would have to inject the fluid directly on the intersection of the T fitting wile looping the water with the pump only if I need it
You could maybe add another cap full if you want, it wont really hurt. Just add it via the T fitting while the loop is running.
This PC is pissing me off :mad:
I cant get windows to instal. :(
Afther the process of formatting it always hangs.
I havent flashed because I dont know how to flash on the DFI board.
Could anyone help me to get started with flashing my PC?
I read that you can flash with a CD rom.
I added the latest 5.10-1 on a CD, I just need to figure out how to flash with it.
Afther flashing, do I have to set up my BIOS for a single drive? My storage solution is a single Raptor 74gb 10k rpm's on the SATA 1 connection on the mobo.
Are you holding down F8 when windows is loading the drivers to load the sata driver, before you even get to the formatting?
For me its F6 to load extra drivers from the floppy
One time y tried it and got the BSOD afther it finished recognizing the drivers.
Dont I have to flash first so it recognizes everything before windows starts installing.
Going to try again passing the drivers from the floppy that came with the DFI box
omg, I finally flashed my BIOS to 5.10-1 :banana: :woot:
PC runs much more stable now.
What I did is I got the BIOS and BIOS flash utility on one floppy and on another floppy I made it a bootable DOS.
I first reseted everything to "optimal defaults" on BIOS.
Then, I rad DOS with the Bootable DOS floppy, changed floppies and typed awdflash.exe to run the flash utility. I added the bin flash program, backed up the old one and flashed.
Afther flashing I reset my PC and once again reset to "Optimal Defaults" afther BIOS flash. Reseted again and the boot screen instead of 30 seconds now took about 5 seconds to load IDE and SATA drives (like any normal PC) :)
Hope this helps any other noobs having problems flashing their DFI nf4
Now Ill try installing windows. Lets see if it doesnt hang again
Good luck!
Remember, after flashing...always power down, clear cmos and unplug your pc...some even like to remove their cmos battery completely although I don't.