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Kinda... I have the version 1.1/1.2 serial kit. It comes with plastic piece. It says to install in the bottom left. I can see he bleed kit goes in the top right.
I am just struggling as there has been no reviewer update for the later versions and new kits. Alot of the stuff here appears to be redundant.
Putting the acrylic piece in the bottom left chamber forces water to flow from the inlet to the pump immediately and then you remove the metal stopper that goes from the right chamber to the left chamber. If you can fill it and tilt the res that will help with bleeding, but I always had a heck of a time bleeding it even with the kit.
There is something seriously wrong with the acrylic piece that comes with the serial kit. I did not install it at first since its considering optional for performance.
Yesterday I realized that I can install it by simply draining some liquid from the chambers using fill ports and not have to drain whole system and by putting my case on its back safely remove the front plate. I installed the acrylic piece in hope to stop the giant whirlwinds on bubbles in the chambers every time I turn on the system. To amazement the flow went from something that felt like I could cut the metal to something I can barely see at all !!!
I don't have flow meter in my system but this is visually obvious, so much for performance increase.
ps. I got 1.3 rev of the res and 2x 450 pumps with dual voltage controller
How can you tell what your flow is like? Do you have a flow meter? Or are you just judging by how fast the water sloshes around in the reservoir?
Yeah like I said I do not have flow meter, something I'm considering purchasing recently.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
I know it sounds silly that one could judge this by looks but trust me the difference is extreme. I found video on my cellphone I took when filling the system so obviously I don't have all the air in the system right now but here it is, two pumps at minimum speed, without the acrylic piece blocking one tank.
http://youtu.be/sfnUXrU1b-0
You have the RP-452X2, not the 402X2. The DDC version is slightly different, so I can't tell how the bleed kit and serial insert affects the reservoir. But on the DDC version the serial insert blocks off the one chamber completely. So you'll get zero turbulence in that side of the reservoir.
For clarity....I have one of these res's and want to start off by using just one MCP-35x, single loop.
So, to check my understanding:
Single DDC fits on the right side (looking front on)
I remove the long plug and replace with the short plug
I block off both inlet and outlet for pump 2 at the back of the res, using only pump 1 inlet/outlet ports
I don't have to put in the bleed kit on the right side ?
Anything else i have to do to use this as a standard bayres, with bling ?
Also, does anyone know the size/thread/length of screws used to hold the front bezel on the res ?
Thanks
I have the exact same question if anyone out there has the answer..Quote:
Originally Posted by bito
For RP-402X2 Rev.1.0-1.2, if you're using P1 on the rear right, it uses the front left reservoir. Each pump uses the reservoir on the opposite side. If you're only using one pump (P1, rear right) AND combining the reservoirs, just cap off both P2 ports on back and you're good to go. The bleed kit's not used if you're not using P2 in/out. (If you were only using one reservoir, you'd have to make sure to fill the front left or you could have an unintended leak.)Quote:
Originally Posted by bito
This actually depends on the specific revision. We do have multiple threads that can work for the same unit and the latest ones self-thread into the acetal a bit. I would just drop an email to our tech department and they can offer the correct screws for your unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by bito
Tim
I just recently purchased the CNT-RP402X21 for my RP402x2 (version 1) and have two pumps. I will be using both of them in series. I'm a bit confused though on how to connect everything. Because as I can see from the pictures on your site I notice that you have the 180° connector on the bottom part of the pump where it says P1 [IN] to P2 [OUT]. I would think that you would have put that 180° connector on the top part of the pump where it readsP1 [OUT] to P2 [IN]. Maybe it doesn't matter either way. I was thinking about putting the 180° connector on the top part and connecting the hoses on the P1 [IN] to P2 [OUT] openings. Please let me know if that will make a difference or not. That's the first thing.
The second thing I need to find out is about the optional acrylic piece. I know it's supposed to replace the 1st serial pumps acrylic partition within the lower reservoir to increase performance, but what I want to find out now is do I now take out the Long Side Plug out and replace it with the Short Side Plug? I ask this because I have the RP402x2 (Version 1.1) and if I set it up the way I have it using that acrylic piece, that would leave the left side part of the res tank completely closed off. But that's if I were to keep the Long Side Plug left in there. But since I think I need to keep that part of the left res open for both reservoirs to be filled I'm thinking that I would need to use the Short Side Plug.
That now poses another question. That's leads me to my third question. Will enough circulation be created in the left part of that reservoir and not stagnate over time? Mind you, I am using your High-Performance (UV Green) Liquid Coolant. I'm actually doing a very unique build is going to be utilizing cooling two CPUs and one or 2 GPU's using your HX-CU1020V (3 Rad) & HX-CU1320V (4 Rad). here is the link to that particular build (ironically enough right here at Xtreme Systems):
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...03#post4952203
The build is coming along rather slowly, but it is coming along and it looks like so far I am the 1st one (although not finished yet) who has started to attempt this particular build that has posted anything online about it (utilizing the SR-2 mobo & TJ11 case), as well is trying to keep everything a stock is possible with the positive chambered air flowed system that Silverstone has created. Weirdly enough, somebody else (DazMode) has not only attempted this, but are almost completed with their build (found here):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnyJ0VYgKns
I think the one that I'm currently putting together will personally (to me) look better. Again that's my opinion. But that's not what I'm trying to park on right now. What I'm trying to figure out is if the questions (above) are able to be answered by you Tim; more specifically the left part of that reservoir, whether it should be closed off or left open (to have more fluid available). That's the main thing that I need to find out right now, as I don't know if it will possibly gunk up over time or not, since I don't think that it's going to have too much fluid flowing through it because of that one opening. I hope I was specific enough in my description and questions.
PS - I was thinking that I should still use the 180° connector but leave out the acrylic piece and utilize the original acrylic piece on the left side for proper circulation, in both reservoirs, but will that impede performance using both pumps in series? that's almost a 4th question.
PPS - I do have to say that this is a very well-built (yet complex) dual reservoir/pump bay unit. On a side note, it looks like Martin at this link: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/...x2-rp-452x2/7/ "jimmied" his acrylic pieces in a very non-conventional way and inserted them completely different toward what was instructed in the PDF instructions. It appears that it doesn't really matter how you set it up as long as you have both reservoirs open for better flow, but I could be wrong though. Let me know if you can answer any of what I'm describing as detailed as you can from this whole posting Tim, and thanks in advance for your input. Later, PNugg... :cool: