Printable View
And it'll do more than 12V if you give it to her..lol:DQuote:
Originally Posted by churchy
It is pushing upwards of 2.5 amps with just 12V though and I am a bit paranoid about heat. Supposedly the Toshiba manual says Tjmax is 150C...so maybe I worry too much?
Martinm210: and how noise subjectively seems with that high rpms relative to common DDCs/D5s?
As for heat, imho no need for much worries. Weren't fets that overheated most on stock DDC PCB?
You have to cut the connection between VSP and Vref. Than you can put a resistor between it. Or you use a 47K poti to regulate the little monster.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Those numbers are insane! I most definitely will be trying to fix these two extra DDC's once those pre-soldered PCB's come back in stock. As for going above 12V, I do believe the TB6588FG lists a max of 2.5A. Although if you feel like being the Guinea pig to see if they'll last above that much juice and by how long, feel free. :D
i bet every is paranoid about the noise level at that performance, not to mention the consumption rate - almost 30W - hello Lamprtron FC5V2 :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Heat wise, try attaching a temp sensor to IC case.
Can you make a video of the pump running at 2.5A?
use a 100Kohm variable resistor.. it allows u to control the speed of the pump.
On the mcp355, the controller will overheat if u don't do this.
It will not overheat... I left it 24h to run on 100% in my system and nothing happend. With 50Kohm the pump will not start. 47Kohm varibale resistor is perfect.
50V would be impossible because the maximum current is 2.5A and on 12V it takes 2.1A. So you can imagine whats gonna happening on 50V or? ;)
I had two of them with a watercool duallaing top. Two MCP355 made 190l/h in my very restrictive system and two diyinhk 3.2 on 100% with 12V made 300l/h.
Success!!!
Here are the 2 pumps i'm working with:
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...1/IMG_5274.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...1/IMG_5277.jpg
used the pre soldered 18w pcb for this and followed this diagram - http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/15ad...8d62155880.jpg
pump works fine and seems to move a lot more water than a stock MCP355. only problem is that the case gets a little hot to the touch after a few minutes. i doubt it can stand sustained use like this. Will look into the vref, VSP mod to slow motor a bit or maybe a pot - just want to make sure what values to use.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...1/IMG_5275.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...1/IMG_5276.jpg
used the 10w pcb for this. no problems except that the pump pulsates after about 10sec. then eventually stops. if i restrict the outlet side with my finger (simulating cpu block, rad restriction hahaha) then it is ok and runs very smooth and quiet. flow is also better than stock ( as far as i remember). i think once this is in an actual working loop, it will do ok.
These were all very quick, non scientific tests obviously. i just wanted to see if i could get the pumps working.
Big thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, much appreciated.
Tried once more to get my blue prop DDC to work. My solder joints are considerably better and I heat shrink all of the extensions. Still unable to get it to work though, it doesn't vibrate as before though. I can hear a clicking sound coming from it, but that is it.
http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/8494...4d7419740f.jpg
http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/d875...78254dd4f3.jpg
http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/e059...5812bf2ed8.jpg
Subjectively I think the Toshiba controller is a bit more buzzy than the DDC3 motor controller, but better than the DDC1 motor controller. Hard to tell though with the different RPM values.Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
Thanks! I'll see if I can round one of those up at radio shack. I have some larger ones, but I'd like to have a nice small one I can mount to the pump case.Quote:
Originally Posted by mochti01
Yeah, I'll work on a video comparison as part of my blog, but I'll wait until I test the Sanyo flavor as well so I can get both done in the same noise test session. It might not be until next weekend though...it's about the only time I can do good noise testing in the wee hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpuTnicK
My motor has a metal plate on the bottom and I measured roughly 53C max on the metal plate. If TJmax is 150C, it's probably still within operating range.Quote:
Originally Posted by mochti01
The Toshiba controller spec manual says it also has thermal protection. At 165C it'll shut down and turn back on at 150C.
Supposedly the plastic can melt at 170C, so this thing would have to get pretty darn toasty to destruct. It would be nice if you could invert the PCB and put a large heatsink on it though.
The Sanyo version does have the IC on the bottom, and that's what the heatsink PCB attaches to. You could also install just about any large heatsink on that model.
I'll be working on this off and on over the next week or so and hope to have all the testing and blog published by the end of the next weekend.:up:
@Martinm210 How do you pick out the tacho signal? My pumps show a signal, but is a bit weird. More voltage -> lower rpm, lower voltage -> higher rpm... Strange, but the pumps work.
@Martinm210 any chance you can overvolt it to 13v on with the Koolance CTR-SPD10 Pump Speed Controller.
@lowfat its either bad quality control because neither of us can get our pumps to work, or it does not support them.
Ive ordered a DDC1 which i will be trying the mod on... grr will be a few weeks until it arrives.
He is using his multimeter set to frequency (pulse) measurement. Comparing this data with the one from original DDC3.2, he gets a rough multiplier that he uses to calculate the RPM from modded pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by mochti01
Pretty soon we're going to be getting waterblocks for pumps!Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Waterlogged is one step ahead:DQuote:
Originally Posted by RacingTurtle
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...4&postcount=31
Here is a little comparison video of a diyinhk 18w ddc 2 and a diyinhk 18w ddc 3.2. Just to check the level of noise.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OZUg-hETyA
So originally I was going to install this mod, but then xcooling said it doesn't work after lowfat couldn't get it to work. Since I have a working MCP355 I figured I'd skip it. Now with this info :eek: I think I'm going to have to install it.
@ DumpALump Please try the mod on your mcp355...
pretty easy to revert it, if it doesn't work.