Quote:
Originally Posted by nowakjan2000
I think you should post it elsewhere as it has nothing to do with this topic (about NB temperature)
Also, when you make a new topic with your issue, don't forget to mention the pump, tubing size, radiator, your loop components order, your CPU stepping, and what you use to read your CPU temperature
Good luck, and try to post in the right place...
Hi, nowakjan200, and welcome to the forum, see isn't that nicer :-) As jonny said, what are you using to measure your temps with. The most common tool to use is coretemp from here http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
Chris
I was desperate, it was my first loop and I think I expected a miracle. Now my setup has change (see singnature) and I get better temps. But still not pleased fully (load temps are as follows: CPU 59-62, NB 39, SB 38, GPU 44. I use Everest to measure temps. My loop order is: Pump-Thermaltake TMG 1-CPU-NB-Black Water Ultimate-GPU-SB-Black Water Ultimate-Reservuar-Pump. I use 8/10 mm tubing.
Hi again, if you are reading just the cpu temp from everest then it is as inaccurate as the bios. You do really need to measure the core temps and they are marked core #1 to core #4. Infact I'd say your fully loaded temps aren't too bad really...
Chris
I tried Core Temp, but seems its not working with Vista x64. As for the temps - "too bad" isn't enough for me. I think the problem is with the radiators not doing ther job properly. I've already ordered Thermochill PA120.3. Hope this will give the whole loop proper cooling. By the way, what coolant would you recommend? I'm using Thermaltake UV sensitive. And also I want to watercool mosfets with EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a. But for the moment they are unvailable in my country (only dirrectly from EK). So I'll just have to wait and try different setups.
http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/3828
Having the NB load @ ~39 degrees celsius. (1.6v, using 4 sticks of ram).
The southbridge is steady @ 40 degrees celsius. Kind of regret that I didn't change the thermal paste on that sucker as well. But I really think that it was a pain in the ass to remove the stock paste on the NB, SB don't require much cooling so I thought it would be cool.
Hi, if it's any help with an ambient temp of 23c, my cpu is 33, 32,27,31, mb is 30, nb is 33 and sb is 35 all at idle. My loop is res-pump-gfx-nb-rad-cpu, I got that way as recommeded by swiftech.Quote:
Originally Posted by nowakjan2000
As Iam using uv 1/2" tubing my coolant is Feser one clear, before then, when I used clear tubing, my coolant was Fluid XP+, green.
This was my first rig:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/DSCF0331.jpg
And this my present:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/DSC00391.jpg
I think I need more uv tubes and a rear led fan...
This is how I've mounted my 120.3
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/P8270008.jpg
It didn't do much to my idle temps but it has allowed me to overclock to 3.6 and dropped my load temps from 85c to a max of 55c...
Chris
Very clever idea with mounting this Thermochill radiator! Did you have to cut through the case or was there a hole already? I'm asking because soon I'm going to face the problem of mounting my PA120.3, and I'm already short of space. I hope getting PA120.3 into my loop will solve the temperature problem.
that is sweet work and i am going to do mine close to the same. the only thing i wonder about is the radiator being at the top of the loop with no where for air to excape.
Hi again, no I didn't cut it, the suppliers of the case did it for me, damm good job they made of it to as the barbs lined up perfectly:Quote:
Originally Posted by nowakjan2000
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/P8270009.jpg
Chris
Origional post updated with your data.Quote:
Originally Posted by NysoO
Thanks for the post!
Hi, the rad has a bleed screw, besides I found turning the PC on its back or side and position the res higher and running it overnight worked fine...Quote:
Originally Posted by loften
Chris
changing my tubing soon, how the hell am i going to do this completely drain the nb block? I guess the only way is to remove the motherboard and tip it upside down?
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...menta/cpuz.jpg
and
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...imenta/OC1.jpg
Why we should re-paste everything.I re-pasted everything with MX-2
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6151.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6150.jpg
To remove the heatsink i used a compressed air can,turn it upside down and spray the top of the heat sink for like 8-10 seconds a liquid should come out making the sink very cold, so cold it should come right out,sure beats waiting for it in the fridge:D
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6149.jpg
The thermaltake Extreme spirit II fits perfectly just check the temps on top
http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/cooler/VGAnCHIPnMEM/cl-c0034/cl-c0034.asp
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6159.jpg
Still working on the Wire management:D
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6163.jpg
I have the:
Swiftech Apogee GT
Swiftech H20-320 with 3 Scythe fans
Swiftech MCW60-R GPU Waterblock w/ G80 Adapter Plate
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Waterblock
Swiftech MCP655 Inline 12V DC Pump
thermaltake Extreme spirit II
KALISPIMENTA youre only stressing two cores, 0 and 1, thats why you have two cores in the 50s and the other two in the 30s.
Thank you! I was wondering when someone was going to notice that.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrogBite
PICS EDITED
Better?:(
I will run it all night and re-post manana.
They look good to me buddy!!
Thanks for the post. :up:
hey guys, long time lurker-ish here... just bought what i hope is a SE board http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/6894...lga775-so.html, to replace a non-SE board sold to me as an SE board i.e. http://www.amakia.com/customer/estor...dproduct=86851
i've read somewhere that the newer non-SE boards come with the fusion waterblock anyway?
i also have a question about repasting the nb and sb
i have until now seen a number of options , yanking it straight off and risk taking the nb with it, heating it up before yanking it off, using fishing line to cut through the paste , and lastly and most recently, kalispimenta's chilling down method... i was considering going to the local 24 hour walmart to buy some dental floss and see if that can substitute for the fishing line, but is chilling the heatsink now the de facto way of removing it? if so i'll buy some ice cubes instead, somewhat messier but i dont end up with an empty can to deal with
Due to some members enjoying 10C lower NB temps under load, just from using a different TIM. That is just with remounting the stock ROG cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by KALISPIMENTA
I don't know if there is a de facto way. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
The chilling method is the new kid on the block. I believe the lions share of us probably used the hair dryer method? Not sure.
I wouldn't be yanking anything. :)
With heat, gently wiggle the NB block side to side until it slides off. I think when you pull up, is when you could get into trouble...
Can't speak to using the chilled method.
ahh... i think i'll go and buy my dental floss and see if that would go through the paste for me
but first im waiting for my SE maximus to arrive... it will be saturday prolly, if they do saturday deliveries
btw it seems that eastcoasthandle had the same idea about cooling the block to get it off... its a pretty standard method anyways, now that i think of it... i thought that condensation and moisture on the board wouldnt hurt it, as long as you let it dry completely before you pass electricity through it?
that mips waterblock kit looks very very nice, but my existing watercooling system is 1/2" , so :( otherwise i would have stuck with my non-SE board and spent abit more money on those blocks... i dont get like, why people buy the SE boards just to install aftermarket waterblocks, dont they save some money by buying a standard maximus since they cost abit less than the SE's ?
The SE was released first. The non SE was not an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
I baught all aftermarket cooling stuff now, so I would of rather had the non SE board myself.
I also believe if you go with an aftermarket NB block, you will see an additional 5 to 10 C lower NB temps, on top of the 10 C savings from using a different TIM, and the remount.
If you go with the MIPS NB block, your loaded NB temps will probably be 15C or more lower then using the stock ROG cooling.
If you havent seen the chart on page 1 of this thread, be sure to give it a look. ;)
yeah i have, but my problem is that i already have a gpu and cpu waterblock which are both 1/2" and i dont know where i can buy a y-splitter where its 1/2" on 2 sides and whatever size mips uses on the 3rd side... my previous dual-diameter watercooling attempt was a nightmare, all the stuff i had to do to adapt between the 2 diameters were twice as complicated as the parts which did the actual cooling, and the 2 different diameters were done in parallel so i still had decent flowrate in the 1/2 stuff
ive read from that virtual hideout review of the asus striker's fusion block that it has a flat chamber bottom... if there is a way to open the block up without destroying it, i'd gladly take my dremel to it and carve out some patterns at the bottom to give it some turbulence... the thing is i really like the idea of a watercooled heatpipe to the southbridge, it is better than a heatsink cuz you either point an extra fan on it or you let it heat up more, and its also better than watercooling it cuz the southbridge doesnt need that much cooling and its extra complexity, cost and restriction in your cooling loop to have a waterblock on it... plus it comes with 1/2" fittings (i assume) , and i can run it in series with my gpu and cpu
what i do like about the mips set is their mosfet watercoolers, i havent looked much but are they the only ones to do that? again, i cannot install them unless i find the mythical y-hose adaptor with 2 sizes...
Are you saying you would like a aftermarket NB block with 1/2" fittings, or want to keep the stock ROG cooling for the SB'es heat pipe?
You are looking for the Y fitting to run your MOSFET blocks in parallel correct...
I agree, that the SB does not need to be under water, and unless your running more than one loop, I wouldn't want the extra restriction that another block would add into mine. :)
There are the EK blocks too...