so what is the latest news on tubing?
i especially want to hear from those who just spent $50 on tubing, or $150(ranker), lol.
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so what is the latest news on tubing?
i especially want to hear from those who just spent $50 on tubing, or $150(ranker), lol.
2075 is more kink resistant than 2275, and is slightly cloudy. 2275 kinks more easily and it is clear. 2275 also has a higher max working pressure (18 vs 20psi), but that is irrelevant for water cooling, I would go with 2075 for the better kink resistance.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
They both are highly resistant to abrasive chemicals and have low absorption rates. 2275 also is much more resistant to ketones (ex: acetone, nail polish remover, etc) than 2075, but that is again irrelevant for water cooling.
I have 11ft of 2075 coming my way which I will be using in my loop. Unfortunately I bought 15ft of 3603 before doing my research, so thats pretty much wasted money :(
Lol you don't buy tubing based on how it looks. At least if you are after high quality and performance you don't. Any tubing that is not plasticizer free will eventually have the plasticizer leeched out of it (even if using only distilled water with no additives), causing build ups inside the loop, and the tubing to become brittle.Quote:
Originally Posted by WiCKeD
so that stuff really seems to be the best way to go right now. i might get some for my next loop then.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
let me know which thickness it the best for it. i would like it to bend as much as it can without kinking. my clearflex tubing right now is way too stiff.
so what would be a good size for Tygon B-44-3 to get?
and where can i get it for somewhat cheap?
To see for myself, I just bought 10' each of R3400, R1000 and B-44-3. All three are 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD (1/8" wall thickness).
I have just received today and my initial impression is as follows:
R1000 is super soft (Silicone) like the Primoflex I normally use, however, it seems to kink at a larger bend radius than the Primoflex which was surprising. A lot clearer though.
R3400 is pretty stiff, actually the stiffest of the three. I need further review to see how it fits over a 1/2" barb.
B-44-3 does seem like a winner. I compared it to some Tygon 3603 and it seems as clear to me and almost as flexible. I think this will be a winner.
I will inform later of my results.
P.S. I did not get any bargain from US Plastics. About $130.00 for the above tubing.
mcoffey, so 3/8" ID and 5/8" OD (1/8" wall thickness) is a good way to go?
doesnt kink at all but still bends easily?
I like the 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD due to the great kink resistance. Myself , I bought 15 feets of Excelon RNT tubing off another member. He bought a 100 feet spool from ebay for 9.99$ + shipping (it's usually a recurring item being sold on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.ca/Excelon-RNT-Tubin...QQcmdZViewItem sold by sintrol).
The nice thing with this tubing is the lack of any markings on it.
Would the 5 micron Trash can filter successfully remove any plasticizer that makes it into your loop?
I just ordered one, and was thinking if I hooked it up from time to time, it might catch some of this gunk...
No because it usually just cakes itself onto the inside of the tubing. And if you have plasticizer being leeched, you don't want to just try and clean it out, because you have a much larger problem at hand. It it continues, the tubing will be ruined.
Why not do both? I use all 1/2" fittings and all 3/8" tubing.
Only downside is I must cut the tubing off to remove. No clamps required though.
Just an obversation.
I use all 1/2" tubing.
I use dual DDC+ pumps.
I use 1/2" fittings on all blocks and radiators.
I use D-TEK Fuzion with 4.? nozzles.
Doesn't the use of the Fuzion with said nozzle impede my flow?
If so, why buy aftermarket pump heads to deliver more power and provide more resistance? Wouldn't I be better off using standard 3/8" DDC+ stock 3/8" fittings and tubing?
Seems to me this is the question yet to be answered.
I'm no flow expert but it seems flow will be restricted to the least "flow capable" block. Is that not the case ???
If true, why does 3/8 or 7/16 or 1/2 inch tubing coming off a DDC+ make a difference.
Matter of fact, why do the DDC+ pumps fail ???
Could it be the resistance in the loop ???
i.e. shoving water through a 4.?? nozzle ????
Just a thought.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanhacker
DDC pump failure is not a mystery anymore. There's a thread about that.
Found something...
5231K955 at mcmaster.com 7/16 ID, 1/8 Wall
Hmmm after a little digging I found this generic Tube.
It spouts the same Regulations as Tygon's Beverage tube.
Though my major concern is the Bend Radius it seems way out there.
3 inches?! that cant be right. Though 1/8 wall might be the cause of it.
And its only a little bit stiffer according to the Durometer when Comparing to Tygon's (Which has the same Wall and inner Diameter). 63 to 70 still within the soft range.
Plus! it meets more Specifications dealing with sanitation of beverages.
I am going to order 25 feet for my loop.
At .66 cents its not bad. Since 3.50 a foot for Tygon's stuff is outrageous.
there are several premixed non conductive(lol) liquids on the market, i just picked up FluidXP, but what are the best brands to get. I expect to change my fluids about every 3 mos.
thanks in advance
Umm just leave non conductive liquids alone.
If you use 7/16" tubing on 1/2" Barbs with some sort of clamp you will never get leaks.
Distilled is cheap,
Effective (More effective than anything else),
Doesn't build up or leave a film on anything,
People here at most spout water with some Coloring and BioTox for a reason.
Non conductive liquids are a gimmick.
Since there are cases of them picking up Ion's and becoming conductive again.