Painting 101

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Originally Posted by RealRedRaider

Thanks. Those ovals can be a b***h. What I found useful was the Dremel bit (9909 - Tungsten Carbide Cutter).

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That sucker is expensive though. It was like $13 at the hardware. I just got a grinding stone bit and attempted to smooth it out. Oh well.

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Originally Posted by nelsoncp21

I have a question. When sanding after the primer coat, where ever the edge of the metal is like at the edge of the side panel it sands all the primer off and I can see the black from the panel underneath. It's not the bare metal but it sands all the primer off just right at the edge probally cause the edge is rounded. Does this mean I have to spray primer again cause no matter how hard I try it does it at every edge. So will I be ok to go ahead and put the first coat of paint on?

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What I have found to be most effective is to get that old paint off. I used 180 grit wet to do this. Then use your Etching primer, then us the high build primer. Only sand the high build with 600 grit... unless you put to much on. Then you can use 400 grit. If you are seeing the metal on the edges just quit sanding near the edges. If you really took it down too much around the edges maybe another coat of primer wouldn't hurt. However to much is hard to work with.
Also I found that on plastic a sealer is required. I didn't use a sealer and my primer bled through the paint.

I used 1200 grit and 2000 on the primer. It's not down to the metal just to the original paint and it's just a thin line on the edge. I'd really rather not start all over again and sand everything off if I don't have to. I have alot of real estate I am working with here!

Oh yeah... dont start over... just make sure it's smooth. I wouldnt even worry if it got down to the metal. Mine sure did. Once I put the coat on it didnt affect it though. You should be good. Just paint:up:

Alright all... I've been dying to post this. I just finished my mod and re-paint. Yes you heard it right. I had originally painted my Antec 900 (seen a few pages back on this thread) and just finished.

I started off by stripping everything down to the bear metal with 180grit wet. Once I got it down to nothing I used high build primer. Come to find out I should have used self etching primer first then the high build (oh well).

After I sanded the primer (2 coats worth) down with 600 grit wet I started my deep blue pearl paint job. Used smooth even strokes... So I got the paint from a auto paint dealer here in town. Professional paint in a can! Yeah... you heard me right. He put his professional paint in an aerosol can. Charged me $15 a can... Not bad huh?

Then the clear coat (after 3 coats of paint)... I used a whole can of this stuff. Got it from the same guy. I sanded the clear down with 2000 grit.

Finishing product: Oh yeah... used black gloss for interior. Got it from autozone.

:)just a web. :) LATEST pc Build. It's a small entry level gamer. 2.8 AMD,OCZ titanuim ram ,zalman cooler pny 256 video,sound blaster sound,aver media tuner card .

Fresh paint;)
Black mat

http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t63156_P5100033.jpg

http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t63155_P5100032.jpg

http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t63154_P5100005.jpg

merge.

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Originally Posted by Hughyhunter

Alright all... I've been dying to post this. I just finished my mod and re-paint. Yes you heard it right. I had originally painted my Antec 900 (seen a few pages back on this thread) and just finished.

I started off by stripping everything down to the bear metal with 180grit wet. Once I got it down to nothing I used high build primer. Come to find out I should have used self etching primer first then the high build (oh well).

After I sanded the primer (2 coats worth) down with 600 grit wet I started my deep blue pearl paint job. Used smooth even strokes... So I got the paint from a auto paint dealer here in town. Professional paint in a can! Yeah... you heard me right. He put his professional paint in an aerosol can. Charged me $15 a can... Not bad huh?

Then the clear coat (after 3 coats of paint)... I used a whole can of this stuff. Got it from the same guy. I sanded the clear down with 2000 grit.

Finishing product: Oh yeah... used black gloss for interior. Got it from autozone.

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Man that professional paint came out looking great. Nice color, I wish I cpould get my hands on some of that paint in a can.:clap::clap:

I have a question and hope someone here can help me since some of you have more experience painting than i do. I usually end up using the wrong paint and mess up w/e i paint lol.

I'm looking at buying something like this. I have a p182 in the gun metal color and want to paint the grill to match the gun metal case color as close as possible. I have no idea what paint i should be using on this or anything. Can someone please help me on this before i go and buy it?

How difficult is it to paint something like the attached image? It would be at least 4 inches wide. Also, what about painting words? I could make a stencil I suppose.

And what's the difference between airbrushing and just regular spray painting? Advantages/disadvantages to each?

http://www.toomanywords.net/wp-conte...ingtoncaps.PNG

The easiest way is to make a stencil, then airbrush that logo one color at a time. If you want the wings to stand out more, you can spray the head first then clear coat, then do the wings. This will make the wings stand out more.
Spray painting usually means you use a canned paint, and airbushing is when the pigment and the delivering medium is separate.
Canned paint is easier to use, but can be quite limited with what you can do. Air bushing will give you a lot more flexibility, like fading but requires a lot more practice. Another advantage of air bushing is that you can mix your own colors if you can't find the color you want in a can.
Hope that answered your question.


EDIT: For the stencil use the paper for water paintings, spray a small amount of water onto it and it will stay on the surface, while not leaving and residue on the surface. However, do remember to remove the stencil before the paint dries or it will stick.

I gotta question here lol. Im painting my case flat black... do I need clear coating?

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Originally Posted by shellshock91

I gotta question here lol. Im painting my case flat black... do I need clear coating?

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Only if you want it glossy. I've never seen or heard of flat clear coat. Although you probably could clear coat it then wet sand it with something like 1000 grit. But what's the point of using a clear coat if you want flat black?

I thought you needed clear coat on everything that you paint......

I have everything I need to make holes and paint. What are the procedures I need to take when beginning to paint and painting?

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Originally Posted by shellshock91

I gotta question here lol. Im painting my case flat black... do I need clear coating?

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This thread has all the info that you'll need. Just scroll back to page one and start reading! :yepp::p:

Please don't make us repeat ourselves!

I painted Stacker 830 with truck-bed liner black---then four coats of clear coats around the areas that will receive a lot of scratching as I upgrade....those areas so far are not flaking. :rolleyes:

A: to much accelerator = flat clear coat LOLOL or
B: it's called "matte" rustolium makes it. however flat is flat . no clear needed.

guys, what can i do to aboid the dust?? it´s everywere....

Wet Sand between coats with slightly warm water with a small bit of dish soap.

For those interested in really good paint in a can, Killer Cans are on sale this week from Alsa. Two for one.

anyone know a good way to strip off an enamal paint like out of spray cans for models from a power coat but leave the powder coat intact?

Excellent guide. Thank You

Do I need to put primer first on an aluminum casing?:confused:

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Originally Posted by theodredge

Do I need to put primer first on an aluminum casing?:confused:

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I usually use self etching primer, gives a better chance of ahdesion.
Some people just sand tho.

I need to paint strip an anodized part of my lian li casing, whats the safest way to do this ?