He has done it already: :stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by sladesurfer
Quote:
There is one potential downside to the DDC. It appears that there have been numerous failures of the pump after appx 1week to 2months of use.
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He has done it already: :stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by sladesurfer
Quote:
There is one potential downside to the DDC. It appears that there have been numerous failures of the pump after appx 1week to 2months of use.
MaxxxRacer, thanx for the explanation, but if pump doesn't overheat on the air, then why should the watertemp rise? i mean, if the heat produced by pump, isn't enough to overheat it, then in the water there will no any raising of temp, will it?
Can anyone tell me whether or not I could fit the Iwaki MC20RLZ in my new Lian Li Case (PCG70) w/o issue?
Here's the case:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal.../PC-G75_01.jpg
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal.../PC-G75_02.jpg
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal.../PC-G75_03.jpg
Dimensions on the Iwaki have been hard to find. I was thinking of trying to fit it in my hard-drive bay.
Another question I had is about the power issue. It runs on AC current, from what I understand, which means I can't run it off the power-supply, right? Is there a converter that I can buy so that I don't have to plug it into the wall-outlet? That's going to be kind of tough with where I plan to sit it inside my case (but I need to find out if it will fit first).
Thanks. I'm a relative n00b at some of this as you can probably tell, but you guys have an excellent forum here. I already know 4 or 5x what I did a week ago about all this stuff.
The Iwaki would be paired with the specs in my Conroe build below. Thanks.
sigh.. let me see if i can make it simpler...Quote:
Originally Posted by L'enFer
take a bowl of water and a red hot coal..
scenario 1: put the coal in the water = all of coals heat goes into water
scenario 2: put the coal next to the bowl = some of the coals heat goes into the water...
scenario 1 is = to putting the pump in the water
scenario 2 is = to placing the pump in the case, not sumberged in the water.
anybody have an opinion on that newish mag II LE i see dangerden released?
MaxxxRacer, ok, i was wrong. thanx.
I'm trying to decide between the MC20RLZ and MC20RLZT. I would like to use metal barbs throughout my case, so does it make a difference which one of these that I choose? Or could I simply buy an adapter for it?
The RD-30 is better (and about the same price). I've never used a pump like that, so I don't know how to power it, but there are plenty of ways besides using wall outlet...
Just read the specs, it clearly sucks.Quote:
anybody have an opinion on that newish mag II LE i see dangerden released?
The lowest I've seen the RD30 go for is 250$. The one I'm looking at is 179$. Sizeable difference there.
Also, I could run the RLZ off my power-supply with a relay; the RD30 is 24v and won't run off it if I understand this whole process correctly. I would have to purchase a device specifically for the pump in addition to what I already have.
It's not bad assuming that you only want to cool a CPU and that you don't have any highly restrictive components in your loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqMale
Im wondering wether or not my DDC is better than an Ehinm 1048..
also, can a DDC be mounted to the back of an Aquatube 2x5.25" bay thingy??
Your DDC is about 5x better than the 1048. Remember, the 1048 is a huge, weak, 5 year old pump. A DDC is on par with a D5. A DDC-2 is about 30-40% better than a D5, Ie- the best DC pump to date.
I thought it was around 10 years old?Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderstruck!
It may be 10 years old. I just said 5 because I knew it was ooooooold, just not how old.
thanks for the reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardokk
so if i was going with a DD tdx cpu block, 2x DD maze 4 gpu blocks (and maybe a maze 4 chipset block) with a pa 120.3, which pump would you gurus recommend? i think the loop is pretty non-restrictive right? could i save $30 by going with a mag II le over a d5?
maybe mag II and get a nb block or d5 without the nb block?
Well, with that many components in the loop, you'd be happier with either a D5 or a modded DDC-2... Both should perform better, last longer, and make less noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqMale
If u want staight answers without first searching... :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqMale
Ditch TDX and chipset block. Get something better for cpu + DDC-2.
If you only havew 1 120mm rad is the ddc2 worth considering over the ddc1?
i've searched and searched and read sticky after sticky and only ended up more confused. what i know for sure is custom over all-in-ones. what i would really like to now is how much difference in temps does the pump make? also, why is the tdx so bad, it's much less restrictive than the storm rev2 right while being +1 C/W, wouldn't it be better for my loop consisting of maybe 2-3 maze 4 blocks (2 gpu and maybe 1 nb)?Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBar
Heres a comparison for CPU water blocks. just look for the graphs and charts for tests performed on the Storm. the pressure isnt the best but its a restrictive block what do you expect. least its less restrictive then the MP-5. You want the least amount of pressure compared to the quality of temp decrease, storm wins hads down.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqMale
http://www.systemcooling.com/images/...image24big.gif
http://www.systemcooling.com/images/...image26big.gif
^^^ it's funny that you'ld post links from the systemcooling.com review of the apogee but my question to you is then, why is it that in an actual test system was there only 1 degree difference when the volts were turned up.
the apogee didn't do so bad against the storm though the chart dictates that it would suck against the storm.
i believe that with a storm in the loop the max flow rate will be too low for any real performance of the maze4 blocks that will be in my loop. Here's the CHART i've been using.
i'm a complete noob to watercooling but it seems to me that with DD blocks i will have a less restrictive loop than a single storm and be able to have a high flow loop.
anywho storm is out, not a block thread, here about pumps
My real question is, how much difference would there be in temps between pumps in this setup (best guestimate)
DD tdx block, 2 DD maze4 gpu blocks (maybe a maze 4 chipset block) cooled by a pa 120.3
temp difference for the following pumps, DD magII LE, Laing D5 (655) , Laing Ddc 2 (355) with petra top?????
on a different note, anybody else think that maybe people here on xs have been programmed to respond, storm, pa 120.3, ddc 2 with top without being able to justify in results the extra cost for a storm compared to other blocks, the extra cost of the top for the ddc 1/2?
not sure if it too late for the answer but...Quote:
Originally Posted by Xion X2
you would need very taught grip drill fastnd metal worm drives to even posibly warrent metal barbs on the iwaki's. you would probly shatter the front face at the same time u managed to crack the stock barbs as the whole thing is one piece lol.
So what is the best pump for these two waterblocks?
AquaXtreme MP-05 PRO Universal CPU Water Block
Apogee Extreme Performance CPU Water Block
???
Please read the guides. There aren't a million DC pumps to choose from. You got the 2 basics, D5 or ddc-2 w/ top. Independent testing shows ddc-2 20-30% better than the D5. The MP-05 is more restrictive than the storm, apogee is not. So it depends on the block you want to use.
hi, i'm quite new in DIY watercooling, and i just bought D5 from a friend. Since both of us are newbie :D we tried google to learn about the adjustable dial at the back of the D5. and we cant find any site that explain anything bout it..
So any of u guys mind to explain to me bout it?.. what it is for, and which one is better, lower number or higher number (5)
thx
No.1 setting lowerst pressure/flow rate...No.5 is max setting(also the max for heat dump)..mine is set to 3 for noise, heat and performanceQuote:
Originally Posted by irenic
if your looking for the best performing pump, then go with a DDC-2 with petra top, hell go with two DDC-2's with two petra tops in series, you'll get high flow rates no matter what. then this isnt your ordinary set up, nor normal conditions.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqMale
as with the gpu block, the storm is a bit restrictive. but, its the best block IMO. both waterblocks performed very well. Under normal conditions the apogee can perform on par with the storm. its just a personal preference how your looking to WC. the strom works best with just plain old distilled water and a really good pump.
i know its not always best to use charts like this, but these are just illustrations to better see what is happening.
http://www.systemcooling.com/images/...image28big.gif
because simply this is xtreme systems after all and they asked for the best(no budget concerns or really hard earned money for the best bang for the buck reasons) and the usual reasons being:Quote:
on a different note, anybody else think that maybe people here on xs have been programmed to respond, storm, pa 120.3, ddc 2 with top without being able to justify in results the extra cost for a storm compared to other blocks, the extra cost of the top for the ddc 1/2?
1. the PA120.3 is the current king of radiators
2. the ddc-2 with top is the best/compact pump without going overboard for an iwaki pump
3. the Storm in the right setup would cool better than most blocks, but due to limited batch stocks, the Aquaxtreme mp05-LE is next recommended.
but of course with monetary concerns there are still the #2s that are more than adequate enough for simple setups like a single cpu block
like one of swiftech's or petra's kits
bottom line is different people, different reasons/perception, different setups, different ambients, and different budget...
what is better: Alphacool 1510 or Laing DDC-1?
Chart above reflects a lab test situation not a real application! If you compare the blocks at the same flow rate, that is not realistic as the Storm is very restrictive (with a ddc ultra, PA120.3 & 1/2 tubing the Storm drops flow by 30% by itself, Apogee only 5-6% so you should compare Apogee with Storm at 25% lower flow and then they are much closer. In general Storm is better with small, hot heat source (overclocked P4 anyone) but with larger less intense heatsource differential is much smaller and if you were to take Kentsfield, with it's 2 widely spaced dies, I suspect that Apogee will win out as the Storm is focussing it's flow between the dies - I am still waiting for Kentsfield to test for myself but have been told this is the case and it certainly makes sense to me.
I think it's time that we had some realistic reviews of relative performance using real components to reflect the actual performance of blocks, pumps radiators etc not absolute numbers from the test bench that ignore the issues encountered when using a waterblock on a CPU(not a die simulator) with a watercooling pump and radiator to give real world results. The Apogee/Storm comparison is a good example of this where pump performance, particularly pressure (head) generated, is vital to obtain good performance and even then it is not the out & out winner. Heresy I know and apologies to Cathar but I am sure he accepts that Storm (certainly in Swiftech form) is not the best solution in all situations.
Does anyone know where to get iwaki or blueline pumps over here in the UK?
And or anywhere to get an Iwaki RD30?
how is the Danger Den MAG II - LE for just a cpu loop
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=108502Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewb|t
Search is your friend... ;)
I have a mcp600 now, but the connector(where you put the tubing on) is broken. I can repair it by buying a used pump, which don't work. It's 25 dollar incl shipping. I can also buy a used laing D5(mcp655) for 50 euro incl shipping.
If i read the startpost, i can better buy the mcp600 right?
I will use it with:
Swiftech MCW6002
Swiftech MCW50(want to replace this with a mcw60/maze4)
BIXII
Danger den 5 1/4" bay reservoir.
Which pump of those 2 is the best for me?
Danger Den MAG II - LE??
I have a old pump head from that pump (rev 1) the bearing part has failed but the outside casing is perfect shape.Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
Rev2 pump heads are different so if you need a rev1 outside casing and live in the usa I let mine go cheap.
I have just this one:Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_mix
http://www.burnoutpc.com/images/revi...00-350X426.jpg
I don't know if it's rev 1 or 2. It's just that black thing.
I don't live in the usa, i live in the netherlands(europe). But if you only ship that thing, i don't it's expensive at all. It don't have to be a package, you can put it in a big envelope?
just pm me, if you have that black thing, and it's all right(perfect shape).
Aussie noob here,
i have spent the last few hours reading through all these posts, and i didn't seem to see any1 mention pumps from Australia, i noticed shipping & customs fees are not very cheep, so i was wondering i any1 could point me in the right direction in regards to finding a suitable pump here in Australia, i was going to order a Water Cooling Kit, but i see alot of you have built yours from the ground up using the best parts.. so I'm going to try and follow in your footsteps
i dont like playing the noob part but you have to start somewhere i guess
I am buying/building my new rig next week
Cpu: e6600
Mobo: evga 680i
Ram: ocz 2 gig 800 mhz
video: 7950 Bfg
any help regarding a suitable pump from Australia would be great, i would like to cool cpu, and gpu.. and thanks in advance to alll who reply :)
Hey Darren1981 - I have the same problem, but I bit the bullet and bought from Thermochill & EK Waterblocks. Seems like we have to pay the premium for our 'splendid isolation' :slap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren1981
I've searched hi & lo and the only thing I wanted that I could source locally was the trusty ol' Lian Li case. Good luck and let me know if you find anything of worth locally.
I should add that the total freight charges I've paid come close to $220 AUD for all my o/s sourced gear :bs:
i thought ***k it ill take my chance and order from the U.S.A .. so i choose all my (cooling) parts, only to find out newegg :slapass: dont ship to aus.. and thats where i hoped to get my parts for my computer too, soo now ima kinda realy a mess, everything you guys have over there we get 6 months later & pay a extra 50-60 (AUD) dollars, example e6600 (U.S) roughly $320- thats about 420ish (AUD) over here in the so called lucky counrty $470 (AUD) ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambro
so now pc new rig is going to be getting a large down grade for the same price :confused: ... so i start to wonder will a 386 realy need water cooling:(
any1 out there want to help me out and order my parts for me and ship them to me :D
Just put together a new WC rig for a friend and noticed the DDC+ he received had a blue impeller. I didn't have a camera with me, but there seem to be some changes to the pcb (startup issues fixed?)and the impeller inlet shrunk.
3rd party tops constructed with a lip torwards the inlet might not work too well with the new impeller.
Hi All
I have an Apogee GT on the way and and have a BIX 3 radiator already here.
As i can get one quite cheap would an Iwaki MD15 go well with these 2?
The plan is then to use the Nautilus on the 1900xt with an MCW60
Many thanks for any inf
Smiffy
My Dangerden MAG II LE arrived yesterday and the first thing I thought was: "holy :banana::banana::banana::banana: that pump is small"!!
I installed it and it worked nice :)
I'm now running it on a tempreture sensor, and the MAG II is veryveryvey quie:D:D
I love it
I have a DDC (MCP350) with a 120 rad and was thinking of getting a dual 120mm rad. I noticed the sticky say that a DDC2 is recommended. I really don't have the cash to go out and splurge on a new pump and rad.
The fittings on the ddc are 3/8 and was thinking of just getting a new top with 1/2" and calling it a day. Would come out less expensive, I believe. Was also thinking on Petra's but noticed it said for the 18w model.
What to do! :p:
Call Alex (Petra), the top should fit both no problem, but, verify with Alex, It'll give you that warm feeling, BEFORE you order the top, and he makes the BEST.
I JUST got my Iwaki RD-30 in this am, Sat. am actually, as it's just after 2400. I've got an RD-20 coming also, I've got power supplies enough to power just about anything. I've already Cleaned the 30 out with boiled and cooled Demin. water. and sealed it up, till I use it.
I am trying to find some check valves in 1/2" OD inlet and outlet, if anybody has even HEARD of such a thing that small. I've used check valves a lot in my previous doings, but, they were a LOT bigger. But, I'm playing, (experimenting) with my new pumps, and different ways to run loop/s. Need check valves to do it cleanly and easily. LOW restriction check valves. Never Know, maybe SOMEBODY OUT THERE! PM me, or, just embarass me here! I'm an old guy, I've been called just about everything!
alex = petra? lol just kidding any wya yeah i live near san jose so i can actually visit their store and stuff
anyway isnt P = I x V
http://www.iwakiamerica.com/nav/cm.aspx?cmid=34
according to there,
WMD-20RZ : 115v x 0.53A = 60.95W
WMD-30RZ: 115V x 1A = 115W ...
weird ...
even here suggest that iwaki MD20 uses about 60W
http://www.petsolutions.com/Info.aspx?id=30
so that being case, 60W is not going to pump too much heat to the water?? cuz i was kinda thinking those Mag Drive 700 or Sea Tubo Pump that uses about 70, 80W
edit:
how do u over volt pump?? to 12.8v like he suggest in the 1st post??
Most of the heat in Iwakis ends up in the metal motor casing and not in the polypropylene pump parts. I doubt much of it makes it into the water since metel ---> polypropylene do not thermally interface very well.
Of course, unless you have the pump mounted outside your case, it is going to radiate all that heat into your box.
yeah i dont have a case .. heh , so 60W is not too hot. good.
btw how u over volt laing D5? or any 4pin molex pump?
Whatever you do don't rely on the one that comes with the Theremaltake BIG WATER Crap. It's turned me completely off of Water.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/6.jpg
lol man
I'm using the MD-20RZG-2 in one of my computers, with a Storm, hence the choice of pump, not to mention, 2 EK FCX1900 Water blocks on 2-X1900XTX video cards, and, a Maze 5 chipset cooler. And, I'm getting a terrific flow rate. I've measure pressure, but, as It's in a closed loop, it makes little difference. Wish I could measure flow rate, but, don't have any "Accurate" Flow meters in my price range. I'm also using the regular MD-20RLT in another computer, and, It also, works great. Using a RBX775, and, again 2 EK FCX1900 blocks, and a Maze 5. They both work great, the cases get so that you can't keep your hand on them for more that about 15 sec. or, it's gonna hurt. But, I put a low rpm Yate loon 120mm fan blowing over both of them, down the lengh of the pump, and it helps a good bit, to carry some of the heat away, and out the case. With the Fans blowing, you can rest your hand on the pump case, for as long as you like, without drawing back a lobster claw. :-)
there's someone on ebay selling an md-20rzg-2 right now. 22.49 now plus shipping.
it's not me that's selling it, but i'm selling mine too and i want to get the demand up (so the price will follow ;)).
just a heads up.
Brian,
I had a similar issue when I forgot to turn on my Iwaki MD-20 (its ac powered and I didnt have a relay). I had it off and my cpu temp alarm when off (70C) so i jumped under my desk and turned on the pump..
2 seconds later there was water spraying everywhere because the tubing had overheated and got loose around the cpu block... Thankfully i was still under the table so I was able to pull the main power to the computer before any dammage had occured.
^^ Well, it was a total letdown. I was happy that it was on my test rig first. I was just trying to see how big of a difference it would make compared to the original cooler. Truthfully, I was not that impressed in the drop. Perhaps the pump was truly screwed from the get go and Green Rain was going spray whatever computer it was put into. I know that Water is the best and more stable... But seriously, Passive is truly working for me. Does anyone else here run passive. Have you found it's upper limit?
Well being a thermaltake kit I'm not surprised it was a letdown. Using real parts would give you much better results.
Perhaps in a year.. I'll try again..Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
please help me to choose one of these pumps: Laing D5 or Laing DDC Ultra. i heard D5 is more reliable and quieter, but noise isn't that i'm warning about. i'm going to order D-TeK FuZion, Thermochill PA120.3 and fittings/tubings (gpu & chipset w/blocks will be ordered later). i need it to have enough power to cool well. so, what is better?
Buy the D5 and use it with fittings/tubing that at least 10 mm ID have! In the same loop D5 makes me always better flowrate like DDC...Quote:
Originally Posted by L'enFer
i think that the reason that people have a presumption that D5 is a reliable bump is that is not as popular as the ddc pumps.. there fore there isn't that many RMAīs done. there was a thread about this here at XS.Quote:
Originally Posted by L'enFer
but i have both of those pumps and both are really good. personally i like ddc better over the D5 just cos the simple fact that it's 2 times smaller that the d5, it's more versatile when mounting it too imo.
In a Stacker no reason to buy a DDC just because it's smaller... In a Stacker I have two D5... But in a Stacker you have place for 4 D5 too :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Solarfall
yeah i know not say it's not possible... it's just that i prefer ddc better that d5..cos well they are more powerful pumps when compared to d5.Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Zoli
thanx to all.
Hi
Does anyone know where you can buy iwaki pumps in the UK.
Thanks
Rob :D
Robump, actually, i'm not sure you will be able to find Iwaki pumps in UK. i can be mistaken, but i think they are only sold in USA. you can find smbd here and ask him to send it to you...
You can buy one on ebay, link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-MD-20RLT-p...QQcmdZViewItemQuote:
Originally Posted by Robump
Do the (W)MD20's work with 220v?
Well there must be Iwakis in the UK - I managed to find a company that sells them in Greece.
Good morning guys....
I want to buy a new pump for my watercooling and i am confused...
I mostly want one pump for put it in the tank because i have a custom made tank...
The pump i have now is a seltz L20 and i want something about 1200 or 1500 lt/h..
BUT...Here in greece i can find only some products...
Can you explain me if any pymp of these can work in the tank?
1)Swiftech MCP655
2)Laing D5 vario
3)Eheim 1250-790 230V full ceramic
4)Eheim 1250 230V
the first two are the same pump and cannot be submerged.
The second two are not very useful for watercooling due to their low head pressure.
I suggest you DO NOT submerge any pump in water for your watercooling loop because it will add a significantly larger amount of heat into the loop than would a non-sumberged pump.
Lastly, all of the commonly used watercooling pumps cannot be submerged, and the few pumps that I have seen that can be submerged are of low build quality and are not well suited to watercooling.
Please check out my watercooling guide for basic information on what pump to choose. Then read this guide.
I would suggest that you add the D-Tek db-1. It is a weak pump but rated to 50,000 hours and has the same ceramic mag dirve impeller we all love. It is very small and virtually silent. I personally own so many of these I have lost track and they work great in a low restriction single block loop. I currently have two of them cooling my two q6600 rigs with FuZion and GTX (bowed) blocks and PA 160 rads...for $50 it's hard to ignore a pump that still gets the job done.
Small, quiet, recommended only for low restriction single block loops. Seems to have a low heat dump (no hard numbers).
Definitely the "new kid on the block" but worthy of including in your list.
Nice thread!
Hi,
pls. has anyone heard about this pump and what do you guys think about it.
Alphacool AGB-Eheim 600 Station II 12V. Here is a link to the site but itīs all in German lang.
http://www.alphacool.de/product_info...on-II-12V.html
Eeeewww! It's AC powered and it's very weak (51" of head if my math is right). My CSP-Mag has bigger cojones than that pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocker003
FYI for those of you on the hunt for the discontinued DDC-2 18w pumps, the koolance pmp-400 pump (originally a rebadged laing DDC-2) is now shipping the DDC-3.2.
I know this question has been asked about a zillion times. Here goes again, my question is: for a rig (hopefully a new penryn quad q9450) would a MCP350 (even with a stock top?) be sufficient for folding 24/7 at 3.0 GHz or 3.2 GHz
The rigs enviorment temp (even in summer, AC) will be about 21c to 22c.
I have a E6600 with a Apogee GT and MCR220 rad with a little MCP350 (stock top) and I love it :clap: . It has been folding 24/7 for about 6 months now without any problems. It's so quiet I have to check the micro res to make sure it's still pumpin'.
Do you think it would be wise for me to go with a D5 or another pump? (not a Iwaki anything, too expensive for me :shocked: , maybe a AquaXtreme 50Z DC12 :shrug: )
I really do appreciate any advice from this forum because it has some of the best WC'ers on the net IMO. Thanks in advance :D
Hey jws2346 :)
Yes, the pump is sufficient especially at those speeds. The MPC350 is pretty strong and you should be looking more at a new radiator if you want to improve the performance.
I'm currently researching a lot for my future WC setup for 24/7 folding like you. I might pick a MPC355 with a PA120.3 radiator. The radiator is what help dissipate the heat out of the water loop. The pump is just pushing water around and with only the CPU in the loop, that pump is ok.
Hey Xilikon::)Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Thanks for the response. I understand about the radiator performance thing. I have no complaints at all concerning the MCR220. While it's folding 24/7 according to Core Temp and SpeedFan my temps never get beyond 38c
What my main concern is if the MCP350 would be reliable (not strained) cooling the quad. (like you, I don't think it would)
As far as the MCP350 vs MCP355, no more than I overclock, do you think it would be a wise choice to cool, probably, a Q9450 with a Apogee GT,
Apogee GTX or a D-TEK FuZion WB. I haven't made up my mind yet on which block. I even like the looks of the AquaXtreme MP-05 SP Limited Edition.
What's the main differences between the 350 and the 355. More power, more reliability, what?
What about the AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12 ? :confused:
1- The pump doesn't care what cpu you put in the loop so it's a non issue. The radiator will care since the more heat you put in the loop, the harder it is for the radiator to remove it. However, since you only have a CPU, this radiator is ok but if you want more thermal capacity, get a MCR320 or a PA120.2 if you want to keep the same overall dimensions. This one match the MCR320 with one less fan.
2- It's still unknown what is the thermal characteristics of the Q9450 but we can assume it's cooler than the current Q6600 due to the smaller die (45nm). If we find the best for the Q6600, we can assume it will also work for the 45nm version as well. With this in mind, only the Apogee GTX and the D-TEK Fuzion will be able to cool quads fine but wait for reviews of the Enzotech SCW-1 and the Thermalright XWB-1 on quads before taking a decision. I'm in the same position as yours and waiting for the radiator to become available will let me take a wait and see position.
3-The difference between the MCP350 and MCP355 is that the latter one is a 18W version and the former 9W. More power mean it will have a higher head pressure. This is necessary when you have a loop with a few blocks and more blocks mean more restriction. A more powerful pump will be able to push water more easily thru restrictions. However, there might be a reliability issue with the higher powered pump but it seems to be caused by a custom top. For just a CPU loop, the MCP350 is fine, especially if you pair with a Thermochill PA120.2 (this radiator is much less restrictive than the MCR220/320).
Hope this answer your questions. Veterans, if you find a error with my explanations, feel free to correct me since I'm also a n00b in WC, only saying what I learned by reading around here.
Hi ya,
I was looking for recommendations from anyone who has used a Iwaki md-20r on the best way to mount this beast. I was planning on using some old mouse mads to limit its vibration. But thought perhaps some one had come up with a better solution.
thanks!
Jax
I've 2 options: the 1st is to get MCP655 and the 2nd is to get Laing DDC2 12V 18w and Petras Tech DDCT-01s Delrin Pump Top. is that Petras Top compatible with the pump I want to get? Is it difficult to attach top on the pump? and the main question: what is better: DDC2 with Petras Top or MCP655? My loop is something like this: pump >> PA120.3 >> D-TeK FuZion >> MCW60 >> MCW30 >> reservoir.
The top is compatible with any DDC and it's not hard to swap tops. Just unscrew 4 screws, swap and screw it but don't overtighten too much or you might kill the pump later.
As for what's best, the DDC2 with top is better than the MCP655. However, on the flip side, more will prefer the latter due to more reliability. You can't get wrong with both anyway.
Xilikon, thanks. By the way, what is the reason that Petras top makes DDC2 pump better?
http://www.pc-cooling.de/Watercoolin...12V+Pumpe.html
If you don't speak German translate the page here: http://babelfish.altavista.com/
L'enFer,
Xillikon (and a lot of other people) know more about this than I and can probably explain it better. But see if this helps:
The OEM tops -- Alphacool, Petratech, OC, etc -- work better than the stock tops for a number of reasons. Three are more important than others, they are dynamically related, all having to do with the inlet side of the pump.
First -- bear in mind that a cooling loop is a closed loop. "Wave" type artifacts are introduced into the flow by the pump itself, the blocks, the loop geometry and the tubing, and eventually get back to the inlet side of the pump. This prevents the pump from loading liquid smoothly, and magnifies and transmits the artifacts, which return to the pump, and so on. By increasing the inlet's cross-sectional area -- creating a mini-reservoir, if you will -- the height between wave peak and trough is lessened and the effects of the artifacts are mostly eliminated.
Second -- The idea that the inlet side "sucks" liquid is not actually true. Pumps of the kind we're discussing here work best with positive pressure on the inlet. The increase in cross-sectional area is also an increase in volume -- which in turn is an increase in mass -- which translates into positive pressure.
It's intuitively clear that these things -- smoothness of the flow and positive pressure at the inlet are related.
Third -- Another intrinsically related inlet concern is flow laminarity. In this case, "laminarity" refers to the tendency for the center of a linear flow (i.e., mostly going in one direction, and moving through a tube) to move faster than the outside. Again -- the problem is largely resolved by increasing the cross sectional area and volume. The volume increase is proportional to the cube of the dimensional change, the area increase is proportional to its square, and the circumference directly proportional. The "outside" of the flow is defined by the circumference, while the center is defined by the area (static) or by volume/time (dynamic). However you look at it, a lesser portion of the flow is effected by laminarity in an aftermarket top. .
Something to remember when you're designing your loop -- The actual internal diameter of most high-flow g-1/4 fittings is actually 0.366", just a skosh less than 3/8". Using a 1/2" instead of 3/8" barb on the inlet side of an OEM top won't help you much, if at all.
Hope this helps,
BDL
To be honest, I don't know more than others. I'm just stating some facts that I learned from reading all the threads and the stickies. BDL explained very well the reasons but let me sum the reasons : smoother flow, inlet straight in the impeller instead of a 90 degree bend causing a restriction and the bigger diameter of the holes compared to the stock top (the stock top is actually much smaller than the aftermarket ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by boar_d_laze
Thanks guys.
Hey. I was just wondering if this pump is enough for my watercooling setup? I am going to cool CPU and two GPUs with a 3x120mm HW-Labs GT Stealth 360 radiator and a 1x120mm Swiftech MCR-120 radiator.
The pump: http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html
Btw, 2nd post here at XtremeSystems. :)
And sorry for my bad English.
You should be okay as far as flow is concerned. I would reccomend at least getting the Petra's top with the DDC though. I would be more concerned on having a CPU and 2 GPU's w/ those rad's, depending on the components.Quote:
Originally Posted by LockBreaker
So it's to few radiators for cooling all the Hardware? Do you have any recommendations for me? My case is quite small, so I don't have much room to work with. It's a Lian Li PC-V1100 btw. :)
It depends on the components. If you are cooling an E6700 and 2 8600's then you are fine, a Q6600 w/ 2 8800's is another story. I'd reccomend at least a PA120.3, which you may be able to fit on top of the case (w/ some cutting).
You should get all the info, components to cool, case and budget together and ask the question in a seperate thread instead of posting in existing ones. You would be more apt to get a faster and better reply.
guys, suppose that i have block on a q6600 ,a 8800 gtx and the northbridge, but a lesser pump like the mcp350... there will be considerable heat and restriction, but what happens if i use 2 radiators ,maybe 120.2's to help deal with the heat, and hook the radiators up in parallel with each other so that the radiators present less of a restriction? with less restriction in the radiator side of the loop maybe its enough to compensate for having to pump through 3 blocks... im assuming that the radiators dont need high flowrate and turbulence to work well and the longer the water stays in the radiator the cooler it gets...
Isn't there an easier way?
Great thread !!!
Quick question, I have an Apogee drive with a broken barb, so I am going to put a new top on it essentially making it a mp350. I am only cooling the CPU(q6600) and nothing else, I have one radiator with a 120mm fan. Which top does everyone recommend? I am looking at these three:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22700
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4506
http://www.petrastechshop.com/peddcudeddcp.html
I like the idea of a clear top from a looks standpoint, but I am more interested in the performance. Thank you in advance for any input.
Utnorris
Well, you can't go wrong with a Alphacool or Petra top :)
How come no one has tried one of their AC pumps. I mean those brass stainless steel pumps look sexy.
Hey guys
I never used Water but i want to start, i have a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 and i'm very pleased with it but i want to move to water, as a start i'm searching a good kit i saw some from swiftech but i want your help to recomend me.
You recomend my a kit ? or buying the separate parts ? if so wich parts ?
Sorry to bother but in my coutry there's no water cooler parts, so i have to pay a lot to import them and the cost will be high, so i have to be precise in wich i order
Thank you very much
Best regards for all :up:
Sergio
Check out the kits at Petra's. These aren't some pre-made crap, they use really quality components. Petra does ship overseas but you have to contact them directly.
+1 for Petra's Kits!!!!!! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
Thanks guys, wich block is best for CPU the D-Tek or the Swiftech ?
Cheers
Sergio