Yes PCIe fixed @100 (and PCI @ 33) and nothing helps. No voltages, no relaxing ram timings. Seems like like one part is overheating and producing errors but all temps are really low.
Printable View
Hey Psitech,
Try setting the voltage to auto... my E8400 is running smooth. And make sure your RAM voltage is set correctly and to Auto timings (by SPD I think is what I selected.) Computer uses stock speeds and RAM is 1:1 using different timings than factory. If you get Windows to boot then you can try different OC settings if you want.
My 8800GT was running at half clock until I finally reinstalled Windows as a last resort. All was fine after that... machine is running sweet. Going to attempt overclock to 3.6GHz soon using stock cooling, which apparently E8400 does without effort or extra voltage.
Keep us updated. BTW I'm using Bios 2602.
Jay
It looks as if the E8400 isn't going to work with my P5W. I've literally tried everything at this point. I've tried different voltages for mem, cpu, mch, it didn't matter. I've tried every possible thing I can think of. I did a full cmos reset and even did a long cmos reset and that didn't even help.
The thing that still bothers me is that it seemed to be defaulting to the correct default voltage (1.18) after I did the cmos reset, but the lowest voltage available to me was still 1.375. What made it more weird is when I set the cpu volts to 1.375, the bios hardware monitor showed 0.98. I could crank the voltage and it would barely move in the hardware monitor status. As a last result I set the cpu voltage to 1.65 just to see what it would read as the actual voltage and it was just 1.23v in the bios monitor section. Something is majorly screwed. I don't know if it's my board or the processor.
No matter what I tried in the bios, it would either reboot before loading into windows or reboot seconds after loading windows. I even tried taking 2 sticks of ram out and that didn't help either.
The thing that REALLY sux now is I have my E6600 back in and I can't change the cpu voltage from "auto". I've even got speedstep and c1e turned off. This board is really pissing me off now. Sux that I've got to wait a couple of weeks till I can get a P35 board. :mad:
Update: I figured out the cpu voltage problem with my E6600. I had to do another full cmos reset to get any voltage other than "auto" after putting the e6600 back in. This makes me feel a bit better. I may give it this board one last shot tomorrow with the e8400. If it doesn't work after that I'll give up and wait for my P35.
:shakes:
Im just about done here. I've tried configuring all the settings and performing all the tests I've read about and my results have been the same...
ERROR/CRASH
My most recent configuration was:
FSB 333
Vcore 2.2625
RAM: DDR2 667 1:1 5-5-5-15 2.0V
Hyperpath 3 disabled
PCI-e set to 100
PCI Clock Synchronization 33:33
I initially thought my problems might have been stemming from my RAM so I ran memtest for 12hrs with no errors.
I then began running the Prime 95 tests. I first ran the combination tests which had temps around the high 50's. It ran for about 8hrs then produced an error report.
I bumped up Vcore and ran again...an error after a couple hours.
I changed vcore to auto and ran the small fft test. The temps were hung at about high 50's/low 60's. It shut down at around the 1hr mark.
My most recent was running small fft test in Prime95 with 2.2625 Vcore, Hyper 3 disabled and all the same settings mentioned above.
I got a shutdown in a little over an hour. The temps were around mid-high 60's
Im grasping at straws here guys. Does an end-all solution exist for my set up? Im just about ready to give up on over clocking here. Its a brand new q6600. I see posts from people who are running stable at well above 333 here and Im wondering what the hell Im doing wrong and if the 25% increase is even worth it at this point.
Like I said before, I run this PC for strictly DAW purposes and this has been the most unproductive, creativity-killing waste of time.
t_ski, Larry-is it worth trying for 333 or higher anymore or has this board been a waste of $ in re: to over clocking?
Isn't it a limitation with the 975x chipset and Quads? For the most part anywhere between 333 - 360 could be stable, it seems to be a lottery what you'll be able to reach and keep stable with a quad.
I've only seen I think 1 guy that has managed to get it above 360 stable and that was with a completely watercooled mobo- NB,CPU,mosfets...etc.
The highest I was able to reach was 360 X 9 3.2Ghz (I've got 6 x 120mm fans on it) but the onboard audio would completely freak out and almost pop your ear drums with a high pitched whine before it died.
when i start the pc the detection of usb devices is too much, it´s normal ?
FSB term is set to auto. Just set the mch to 1.65 and have been stressing with Prime 95 (small fft) for almost 3hrs. No errors yet. Temps are at about 58-60.
What's the difference between FSB term. and Vcore voltage?
BTW during these failed stress tests...the next time I try to boot up it plays dead. I'll have to switch the PSU off and when I boot up again it posts the "failed" overclock msg in the BIOS (anyone else get this? is it normal?)
Hey, sorry to just jump in with my P5w issue, but I thought you guys would
have some ideas or pointers.
Hopefully my system specs will show up below.....
I've just put together my system, I have never OC'ed before, hence my handle
of "Nu-B". The computer runs fine, steady as a rock. Using Intel TAT, it appears my E6600 cores are running at 57/55 at idle, and 65/59 at 5 minutes
of 100% cpu activity. Which is WAY too hot for my tastes. I've tried Speedfan
to increase the stock CPU cooler fan (pwm) from its slow 1600 rpm, but no-go.
I've enabled/disabled the AIQuiet(?) in the BIOS, and done the same with the
Q-fan control. Changed the specs all around in Speedfan, to no avail.
CPU fan just rotates at 1600, no changes. Any ideas?
If I have to, I'd drive the CPU fan off the PSU with a potentiometer, but I'd
prefer not to.
I had a similar problem. What is your OC config?
I've never used the stock cooler but the problem I had with my Freezer Pro with similar temps was due to an improper mount.
Those bastards are a "bich" to get in there just right. I had to take the board out to actually see that is wasnt mounted right...at all. You might not have to and if anybody has any tips on mounting them correctly the first time... without taking the board out or breakin the flippn CPU Im all ears :up:
Im always scared Im going to put too much pressure on it, slip and knock off one of the batteries or something. I got some good advice from somebody here who spotted the sign right away. Check you mount.
BTW guys, Im at 12+hrs stress testing with Prime95 with no errors (longest its ever gone!) Im going to try to run the full 24hrs. Looks like the MCH voltage may have been the culprit.
The advice of a Random Murderer has never been so useful. :hehe:
The FSB won't go too high
Hey guys I'm having a hell of a time getting anything meaningful out of my board. Here is my setup.
e6750 w/Zalman 9700
P5W DH Deluxe
2 Gb PC 1066
8800GTX
2x Raptors in Raid 0
for some reason I cannot get this thing to post over any adjustments what so ever,
What is the basic settings config for a solid overclock I could expect with this setup?
Hyperpath 3 Disabled
MCH voltages etc?
do some reading from first page on lots of good infor.
Rich
yup, Im done-spoke to soon :down:
after the 14+hr run I got a reboot. Bumped it down to 2.8 Mhz and it posted fine. I threw my DAW test at it (8-audio tracks, 8 cpu intensive vst/midi tracks and loads of effects). It got pushed to about 55% CPU use and high 50's in temps.
Shut it down, moved it back to my room and tried to boot back up 3 hrs later. Nope, wont post. I cant even load defaults to boot. If Im able to boot up and load defaults anytime in the near future...thats where I'll stay.
Im setting a $100 limit on my next board and it wont be ASUS. Im pretty sure I've covered all the bases and addressed all the variables here and its not happening.
well asus boards are stable as a rock i have a hard time buying anything else its that board needs rma or one of your other parts are bad. or something your doing or not doing so what ever makes you happy go for it but ive had many asus for years a happy as can be and will stay with them tell something proofs better
Rich
Seems no one has posted a E2160 in this thread so far so here goes. Finally demoted the P5W from main rig so bought a cheap cpu for it and running at Auto Vcore - one of my main dislikes about this mobo's BIOS since I prefer to have EIST/C1E active. Using XP90c, AC Ryan 120mm fan and Kingston VR D9DCL sticks (2.0V), Prime95 stable >2hrs. Couldn't even reach 9 x 333FSB with OCCT stability at Auto Vcore, pity!
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...Prime95_OK.png
I got 370 stable on my Qx9650. Using x-fi though. 380 fsb wasn't prime stable at 1.3875v and I didn't try to go any higher on the vcore. 400 fsb didn't post. The same frequency was stable at much lower vcore at 333 fsb/higher multi. This was at 4-4-4-12 timings and 1.65 mch.
Ok I cannot get this thing to boot into windows with the following settings. It will POST but will not get to the windows logon, it'll just remain black.
CPU Freq: 400
DRAM Freq: 800
Performance Mode: Auto
PCI-E Freq: 100
PCI Clock Sync: 33.33
Memory Volt: 2.2 (as per rating @ 1066)
Vcore: 1.4
FSB Volt: 1.3
MCH: 1.65
ICH: Auto
Memory Timings: 5-5-5-15-5
Hyperpath 3: Disabled
DRAM Throttiling: Auto
I am using Raid from the chipset and not the JMicron controller
I am using the onboard soundcard
BIOS: 2301
System:
e6750 w/9700 AS5
P5W DH Dlx
8800GTX
2x Raptors Raid 0
1 IDE 500Gb
PC Power and Cooling 750w Silencer
With everything at stock (I cannot overclock) my temps are:
Idle -
CPU 95f
NB 110f
Full load -
CPU 51c
NB ?
I shouldnt be hitting a FSB wall because I am not using the SPD settings and disabled Hyperpath 3.
Any suggestions?
370 on a Quad is excellent:up: well done
I've got an old Audigy lying about but it sounds like crap in vista so I've left it residing in my old rig. If you've ever heard the high pitch whine from the on board you just know it's not healthy and the first time I heard it I thought it was an air raid siren, then realised it was the pc audio and promptly ripped the plug out of the wall socket in a panic!
My system did boot at 400 fsb on Lawry's G0 BIOS, 400 X 8 (1.85 mch, Auto SPD, 1:1)- even made it as far as windows but crapped out after login.
333 X 9 is steady as a rock for me though and I'm more than happy with it.
Mine boots up Windows at 409Mhz FSB @ 1,65v mch. Thats with an E8400. I have removed the metal plate on the north bridge cooler and put a fan on it. Lowers the temp aprox. 10c.
I can run 3DMark05/06 stable up to 450Mhz FSB but I have to use clockgen to reach higher than 409Mhz.
Just purchased new RAM pc8500 corsair for E6700 set up. Will this work ad what are safe FSB and RAM settings for Air cooled system?
I have the 130*? Bios do I need to update that first if so which one works best for getting the most out of my 1066mhz PC8500 ram w/ E6700?
OK
So apparently I screwed myself pretty bad. The thing wont boot nor will it flash. Here's what I've tried:
-restoring defaults
-flashing with original board CD BIOS [alt-F2]
-flashing with USB thumb drive [alt-F2]
-clearing CMOS (taking the battery out for 30sec)
-switching the RAM sticks DIMM slots
The longest it will go is about 30sec then it shuts down. It will start to load Windows and has actually got to the desktop once and shutdown almost immediately at that point.
In the flash process for the USB, it finds the .rom file and beeps 2x indicating that it found it...but then proceeds to move past and search the CD ROM location, floppy, etc again then shuts down (BIOS 2602)
So since Im pretty much fukt at this point, my question is if anybody has a simple resolution (preferably from experience).
Im in the States and purchased the board from Newegg.com in 9/06 so the 1year warranty is up on their part. I scanned the ASUS website and see that the motherboards have a 3 year warranty. I live in California and the US location I see for "repair" with ASUS is in California.
I want this resolved with the least amount of down time as possible. I bought the board for $270. Does anybody have any experience going through a warranty repair process with ASUS? Does anybody have any experience with Newegg (would they go for a replacement or store credit? from their site...it does not look like it but...?)
Thanks
Here's an easy one: if the problem is OC related, take out the CPU. I did this once before to clean of some thermal compound and when I had everything assembled again, the BIOS was reset to stcok settings for the "new" CPU (lol, even though it was the same one). The BIOS screen said something about a "new CPU installed..."
You know...newbie stupid mistake, no. I actually did NOT reset the jumper. Thanks.
However, I just did that now with the battery pull. Powered it back on and it gave the typical "overclock failed" message so I hit F2 to restore defaults. It then booted into Windows and sat on desktop for 30 sec. then....same ol' crap...power down.
I'll try taking the CPU out next (grudgingly) to see if T Ski's suggestion helps and repost my plea to anybody who has had experience with ASUS warranty returns or newegg.com
I have to say, getting as far as Windows loading sounds like some mis-set option doesn't reset, and you should carefully look through everything to see if it's on Auto again instead of some higher setting...
Things to try;
Memtest from floppy
Booting in safemode
If both are OK, then it´s a driver/XP issue.
Im definitely thinking its a mis-set option too. Problem is... Im usually not able to get into BIOS settings to verify and if I do, it shuts down shortly after. Is it possible to "corrupt" a BIOS (apart from bribery of course... :p: )?
I'll try safe mode as well. In re: to the PSU: this is basically a brand new PC (as of 10/06). Everything was purchased new during that time frame besides the video card which was bought on ebay used. This thing has rarely been used since its been built.
could be getting hot also it will shut it down
Rich
I've screwed up my CMOS settings before so that changes were ignored, but the reset cleared that up. I'm surprised that you can boot to Windows at all but can't hit Delete and visit the BIOS settings long enough to save, unless all failures are based on time since starting the PC and not the thing it's doing at that moment. That leads back to heat like w2richwood says.
Do everything with the case wide open and a fan blowing on the CPU, then RUSH through the BIOS settings to be sure they are at stock...
I've recently flashed to 2602 since adding water cooling to my system, and noticed some strange behaviour whilst overclocking the system.
As we all know, when trying to find a good stable overclock, we invariably push our systems a bit too much and need to clear CMOS occasionally, especially with these Asus motherboards that often refuse to provide a video output :p:.
Anyhow, during a couple of these attempts to clear CMOS and load defaults, I noticed some strange options appearing in my BIOS. Firstly, my E6600 appeared to have an unlocked multiplier (max allowed 20x). Whilst I could set the multi at 10x, this could not be saved (after saving, POST reported the default 9x).
Also, in one of the voltage options (I think it was vCore), I had some strange options at the bottom of the list that were not voltages but texts. Unfortunately, I didn't make a note of these options.
After a couple of reboots, this strange behaviour seems to disappear, and the system currently seems to be stable @ 9x400. I was just wondering whether the BIOS was 'slightly' corrupt (if there is such a thing).
Has anyone else noticed anything strange like this with 2602?
I've been able to boot to Windows on a RARE occasion (i.e. once or twice since this problem began) but it shuts down almost immediately after.
I started to think maybe it was the PSU or hard drive too since it seems to have the longest life on the 1st boot, then shorter with each boot after. It doesn’t make sense though since all the pieces are brand new like I said and I had no problems before.
In regards to the heat: the temps. were pretty normal when stress testing (around 68). The heat sink/fan is now properly mounted. I've got 7 fans in the box including the CPU fan so Im pretty sure its not a heat factor.
What's mentioned above though kinda scares me (unlocked multiplier) although that seems to be a product of a messed up BIOS since my understanding is that the locked multiplier is a "hard coded" feature of the Q6600 CPU and not determined by the BIOS.
Not sure...Im going to try taking the CPU out for a couple min. like what T_Ski mentioned. If this does not work is there any harm in trying my Conroe (i.e. would anybody recommend NOT putting it in to prevent any possible damage if the board itself has done something to fry the Q6600)?
:shrug:
Success for now...
T_Ski's suggestion worked. I took the CPU out for a couple sec and put back in. I tried to use "EZ Flash" to flash back to Larry's 2004 and it wont let you because "version is older than current board" WTF?!
Whatever, I got to Windows and it seems fine. I'll do my research the next time I buy a board (and it wont be ASUS).
Thanks for all the help guys!!
Glad it worked for you. IIRC, you should be able to use the award flasher and some switches to go to an earlier BIOS file.
you can use afudos 2.11 to back flash to oder bios
Rich
Hey guys, I just want to thank all of you for having this thread going.. good work guys! I think I've read 200+ pages and it was all very informing. I've been leeching here for the past month or so, and now I'm making my first post haha.
Anyways, I would like to ask you guys what settings you think I would need to bump my E6750 up to 3.4 or 3.6GHz?
I currently have it rock solid stable at 3.2 (it's a 2.66 chip) with a 400 MHz Bus (8x multi) and 1:1 with DDR2-6400 (Corsair CM2X-6400). My Vcore is set to 1.36 V, and right now I don't remember what RAM is set to (other than 5-5-5-15 timings). And I can run Prime95 for 24+ hours with a max load temp of ~42C. I run idle at ~22C and sometimes dips down to 19-20C with a Zalman CMPS9700 that I paid around $30 for at a CompUSA store closing.. one of the best deals I've got from there (except the two 20' THX Monster cables for $10 each, haha).
Anywho.. what do you guys think is possible with this board and processor?
Edit: Forgot to mention, I'm also running BIOS 2504.
i have an E6600 and bios 2504... everything default... nothing o/ced...
i have noticed in CpuZ, on idle situation, multi *6, the core voltage is changing from second to second...
on full load reaches 1.288 and changes less often... but on idle is always changing... is smthg that i must worry about?
psu: Enermax Liberty 620 watt
I am completely screwed thanks to the 2602 bios. I reset my bios to default and updated the bios with the tool in the bios. Everything was fine till the xp loading screen. I got a blue screen 5 seconds into it. This keeps on happening each time i try to start the computer. So then i try to go back to 2406 which had my e6600 rock stable at 3.4. Having no floppy drive it took me quite some time to get dos on a flash drive and go back to 2406. To my surprise i still had the same problem. I then tried to take out the cpu, different ram slots, reseting cmos by using the jumper by the sbridge and nothing seems to work. I am completely lost and any help would be great.
Your OS is corrupted. You need to do a repair install. I doubt this was caused *by* the 2602 bios directly; you may have had one of the memory timings set incorrectly (bad RAM settings is the fastest way to completely screw over the windows registry; even more so than a CPU, which has to be MADLY unstable to do the same thing--a cpu that may fail prime within 5 seconds may load the OS just fine). Search google for windows xp repair installation, and there should be a link that tells you how to repair install **WITHOUT** really repair installing. (a repair install would cause your windows updates to refuse to download "new" updates because it "thinks" they've already been downloaded; there's a command you can run to fix that though). Search google for "XP crashed? here's help" or something...
nvm here found it.
http://webcast.broadcastnewsroom.com...le.jsp?id=8658
I managed to fix the issue however i must say this was the most insanely retarded bios issue that has ever happen to me. I tried to reinstall xp which resulted in a blue screen upon booting from the cd. Which should not happen if was a windows issue. So then i thought i would try one last thing and flash to 2004. To my amazement it worked and the system booted up all fine. This issue has to be directly related to 2602 and i recommend everyone to stay away from it because i flashed using a safe way and it caused me a whole day of headaches. Downgrading bios several times did not fix the issue so i dont even know why the last try with 2004 worked but I'm just going to stay with 2004 unless some mind blowing bios comes out that can give me 380fsb with less than 1.75nbridge. I actually had to use 1.85 in order to break that wall with earlier bios versions.
is it possible to xfire a 3870 on our p5wdh?
will it be both running 16x/16x or 16x/8x
is it possible to xfire a 3870 on our p5wdh?
will it be both running 16x/16x or 16x/8x / 4x
also if i buy a 3870x2 how well will it perform?
please don't post the same thing multiple times.
yes, it is possible to crossfire 3870's on this board, they will run at 8x/8x.
it's hard to say how an x2 will perform without knowing what the other parts in the system are, but i'd be willing to bet the performance would be comparable to crossfired 3870's.
i see i forgot to use the edit
anyway
the other parts are
fsp 700 watts
asus p5w dh bios 2403
intel e6420 @ 3.2ghz oc`ed
tuniq tower with delta triblade high cfm
team xtreem dark 2x1g ddr II 800
1xseagate 750g 32mb
2xseagate 320g 16mb
3xwestern 320g 16mb
currently im using radeon x1600 pro golden
im wondering which is better since p5w-dh is pcie 1.0
2x 3870 xfire but as you stated it will run @ 8x only
or
1x 3870x2 but i havent found any p5w dh using this set up if they didnt have any problem on both cores
On a similar note, I moved my 2900xt into the bottom PCI slot yesterday in preparation for Crossfire. Even though there's only one card in my system at the mo' it runs at 8x speed in the bottom slot.
I had to reset my HR-03 in order for the Crossfire bridge to work. The good news, previously I could run it at 870/1200 for benching. Now it's running at 901/1200 (1.3v PCIe 115mhz idle 50c load 65c). Whether it's improved airflow/reseating I'm not sure. What I can tell you is PCIe running at x8 didn't bottleneck the r600 at all.
Here's hoping Crossfire X runs on this board :D
I have a P5W DH, an E6850 OCed to 3.6GHz, 2x1GB G.Skill HZ PC2-6400, and an HIS 3870X2. Performance is great for me. In 3DM06 I get 16103. With my old CrossFire set-up (E6850 @ stock, Dual HD2900XT) I got 14283. The 3870X2 is far more quiet with the stock cooler than the 2900's, and the idle power draw is way less, too.
thanks for the reply
i guess if it didnt bottlececk your r600 well it might mean its ok to use 2 x 3870 :) also i have another problem after that is the hr-05sli will be touching the pcb board of the videocard
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/2275/img0446hz9.jpg
i see, is your 3870x2 oc`ed? can i see the gpu-z if you dont mind?
ive seen other scores hitting mid 17k-18k on 3d06 or maybe its just they are using penryn @ 4ghz oc`ed
by the way is gecube 3870x2 a decent card, because as of now its the only 3870x2 affordable here in my place
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/9...70x204siy3.jpg
Nice lookin rig you got there....
That Thermalright stuff sure takes up a lot of motherboard space. The HR-05 may be overkill depending on the speed/stability of your FSB. The stock NB cooler + fan may be the best option if you can't manouver the HR-05 away from the PCB or CPU cooler.
As my last message goes about updating 2602, my computer didnt want to turn on again. it just didnt want to get video signal. i tried put everthing off, memory , video card, sound card (xfi) and it didnt even beep, so it means the motherboard has something wrong. it all started after flashing to 2602.
but as my old story goes i didnt touch my puter for 18hr offline with out connection from wall electricy. and i tried to turn it and it went on.
but now it happend again, is there anyway i could revert to old bios ?
becuase i have no idea what to do. this bios didnt something wrong or it's wrong from the first place.
Please S.O.S, need help.
Thanx :confused:
W8 m8, but my mb doesnt show video signal, how can i boot to older using the CrashFree bios 3 from within the mb ?
just to burn it on cd or to usb ? to put the name of the bios to P5DH.rom ?
so it means the mobo is not dead at least, just help me to flash it again. please.
**I dont have a floppy connected. What are the ways to update, i just can rma or do anything, i will have to buy new mobo if nothing works, and i will be left with a lost of more than 279$ non work hardware and will need to install and do everything all over, it just unreasoble because of a little bios. Please i need help.
My issue was different from yours however bios flashing managed to solve it. I really cant help you with the no video signal but if you do manage to get it to work again i can show you how to get dos on a usb. Also try taking out your cpu that solved the problem for someone before.
thanks
i guess so because im not running it for 400+ fsb, theres no way to manouver it coz in any angle it will touch the board of the video card
btw how can i enable 4g on this board?
it only recognize 3.5g of ram all mems are identical, even when im on windows xp nor vista or i need to update my bios and change 64 bit os?
No, my 3870X2 is running at stock speed. I haven't been able to OC it yet due to lack of time and the CCC Auto-tune locks up after a while (I suspect my system more than the card because it did that with the 2900's also).
I don't have a GPU-z shot as of right now - I'll see if I can get you one if you still need it.
As far as the GeCube goes, if the numbers look the same as other 3870X2's then go for it. I know some manufacturer's have lower clocks, which is why I went with the HIS.
Here's the GPU-z
thanks for the screen shot
im quite confused why does it only shows 28.8gb/s bandwidth and gpu 411/450mhz
on the other hand
a friend of mine xfired a 3870
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i5...113DMark06.jpg
To add to your post...this is the screen where it is located. It is disabled by default.
I have a friend using this motherboard, along with 4 gigs of Ballistix, and even with this enabled, he still only sees 2GB of ram.
What else might he look at in order to get his 32-bit XP OS to see the rest of the ram?
If he has a lot of other hardware in the PC, that might be his limit....
Every piece of memory in the PC has to sit in the range that the PC can address, for 32bit OSes, that is 4GB. If you have 2 x 8800GTX (for example) you will be down to 2.5GB available before you take any other hardware into account.....
It appears the default GPU selected was the secondary. If I changed the GPU (bottom left of first tab), the core speeds go up. IDK about the bandwidth. My guess is either an error by W1zzard in the GPU-z program, or add the two GPU's together for the full speed (28.8gb/s x 2).
Just got my second 2900xt today. GPU-Z won't read the overclock at all on either card. I'm running the HR-03 at 858/1153 and the other 803/1140 (stock cooler). GPU-Z reports both as stock even though I know there overclocked.
I've had some time to play with the latest BIOS and it's let me run at 3.2 Ghz 356 X 9. Only 3dmark tested so far although xp has been running without problems for the last couple of hours but I'm going to leave it fold overnight to test for stability.
Managed to hit 17181 in 3dMark with 2 x 2900xt 1gb with the overclock above:D :
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=5330595
PLEASE HELP
i succed to run the mobo, i updated the same bios asus EZ-update 2602. now i am AFRAID to turn it OFF. i connected almost everything but i didnt connected the DvD-RW and now i cant run from DOS to Reflash older version 2504. Can i connect the DVDRW to pc when its on ? its SAMSUNG DVD SATA 203B. Its my only chance or to get USB DVDRW.
i need it to get to DOS and reflash.
Will it ruin anything ?? I REPEAT, I CANNOT TURN THE PC OFF, it might not turn on !.
S.O.S please Urgent help.
I CANNOT BELIEVE ASUS WILL RELEASE SUCH BIOS !! IT JUST UNBELIEVBLE, WHAT WILL HAPPEN THE NEXT BIOS ?? i dont know if it could be the PSU or the MOBO itself nor the BIOS VER.
**** FIXED*** I connected the DVD+RW and it worked , i flashed using the USB FLASH and finally got 2504.
now everything runs Perfect.
Now for the problem, could it be because i used from Vista to Update ? or the bios is total :banana::banana::banana::banana: ?
He has a single 8800 GTS card with 640MB of memory, if I recall correctly. Seems like he should be showing at least 2.5GB available, but only shows 2 GB.
That was my understanding, as well. Beginning with SP2 the feature was disabled. He has SP2 on his system.Quote:
that's a nice concept, however microsoft removed the usefulness of pae in xp after xp sp1. for some reason it caused instability, so rather than fixing it they disabled it
It doesn't make sense, so it must just be something simple that is being overlooked.
I have a problem. My dvd drive's have low burst rates and when I burn dvd's they sometimes have pauses in them now. this is something that just somehow happened in the past couple weeks. i put my pc together a year ago and haven't had any such problems before. i suck at troubleshooting. any ideas on what I should do? i've backed up all my important stuff onto an external so i'm ready to do a fresh install of windows. i just really don't want to do it unless i have to.
My liteon is udma 4 and it's burst rate is only 23 mb. They all seem about 5-6mb lower than they should be. My Benq is udma 2 and is only 17mb burst when it should be 23mb. i was looking into updating or reinstalling ide drivers but i don't even know how or if that will help. My samsung sata burner is in the low 30's when it should be in the upper 30's burst rate.
i googled and found out how to install microsoft drivers for the ide instead of the intel ones. it made no difference. still same low burst rate. i'll try changing the ide cable later tonight. besides that, is there anything else I can try before the final resort of reinstalling windows? i'm starting to think that reinstalling windows won't help and it's a mobo problem.
AFAIK, speed should be between 16-33mb, it´s never the top possible speed, but somewhere between one step lower and indicated.
23 burst is fine and plenty for a removable optical disc.
Mine here are 24mb/s for a dvd rom drive and 18mb/s for a CDR/RW (both P5W).
Really, don´t worry about it, it´s a waste of time. (or money if your gonna invest in new mobo´s and drives for just, if your lucky, a few mb/s more).
Vincent
I tried on my other computer, DVDrw, and got 23mb/s (asus K8V-X)
Did you try change a cable?
Does someone have a Segate 500GB 32MB Cache drive using P5WDH Deluxe with 2504 bios ? the hardisk has S015 Firmware, so it does not have the Cache problem.
because when using AHCI and with Intel Matrox manager driver the Hardisk freezes when trying to copying to or copying from this hardisk, in XP it works without a problem. and all other hardisk does not have problems, and my friend bought the same hardisk with me in the same time, i dont think it a hardisk fault because it works nore to do with AHCI. but he has Gigabyte DQ3 P35 chip and he uses AHCI without a problem. What could be the mainfest here? he uses Vista 64bit too.
only in Vista 64bit it freezes and i need to restart using the reset, the hardisk shows Steady L-e-d without flashing it just glow without doing nothing. but i cannot close the copying windows or extracting windows from winrar or whatsoever.
Does anyone have a Q6600 G0 on the P5W DH board? I've heard that voltage management on the 975X is giving problems on quads.
I've had my E6600 at 9x400 or 3.6Ghz 24/7 at 55-58C load temps. So the board can do the FSB and I know it has more cus I ran that chip at 3.87 for Pi 1M before my cooling gave up on me cus of the voltage.
The Q6600 I have will not go over 3.06Ghz! at which I have idle temp 29C. At that speed I can't even complete 3DMark 06. 3.15Ghz will not boot to windows no matter what voltage.:confused:
I'm seriously considering the DFI X38 or ASUS Maximus.
I have a Q6600 G0 with this board and I can't seem to change the vcore! This is so frustrating! I've read through the last 5-6 pages of this tread but every time someone who has this exact same problem brings it up, no one here can seem to help. :(
Another thing is I can't downgrade my bios through EZ flash anymore because it doesn't work. It just sits there and none of the usual A:\ or C:\ would show up, in fact only the box that shows what bios i have shows up. The two big boxes in the middle are blank.
My E6700 that this new Q6600 replace was able to change the vcore in bios, but the EZ flash problem was still there. This sucks. :(
It's really odd with this board...I flashed with the new 2602 BIOS from my old 1503...
Vcore adjustment on this board requires that you turn off EIST and C1E....it's odd that intel speed step option does not always appear under the CPU page...but play around with the settings and reboot a few times if u don't see that option...once it appears...disable it. You'll have access to Vcore then.
Let me know how it goes cus if I can get this Q6600 to work at close to 4Ghz on this board...I'd be a happy camper. Otherwise I gotta shell out over 200 for a new board.
for bios 2602 i think you have to disable the multiplier change thingy to see intel speed step. I did this several times and speed step would show up and i would disable it along with C1E but still can't change vcore. It still says "auto" as the only option. I just want to get to 3.6GHz! :(
LiteOn Burst Speed and P5WDH, 1.02g; BIOS 2602
- have never seen burst deviations with last 5 BIOS'es and older LiteOn drives, back to 165H6S series
- both drives connected to INTEL Primary IDE, UDMA Mode 4, master: 20A4P; slave: 20A1H
- 80-wire
- CDSpeed v4.7.7.5 (as well as older versions)
DH-20A4P-08C - Retail - Sept 07 - China - MOD CAP
9P57: 37~39mbits/sec (RW media: 25~28mbits/sec)
9P59: 39~42mbits/sec
LH-20A1H-186C - Retail - Dec 06 - MOD 3
LL0A to LL06: 39~42mbits/sec (RW media: 25~28mbits/sec)
Posted tests with burst speed results, seen at:
Lite-On DH-20A4P - Post your scans here
- one of many of my posts:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh...ml#post2002563
thread:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh...s-here-231051/
LiteOn DH20A4P/H Fast Burn, Enhanced OverSpeed & Enhanced OHT Patched Firmware
- one of many of my posts:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/1996533-post288.html
thread:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/liteon-...re-new-231875/
FYI:
- noticed a small noise floor increase during X-FI Elite (SB0550) testing/mods and P5WDH BIOS 2602. (system specs in sig below)
- see across RMAA v6.0.6 tests, THD, THD+Noise, etc.
- installing older BIOS, 2406 fixed issue.
- theory might be processor PWM control code for newer processor support might be cause.
More of a "curiosity" than an operational problem.
RMAA Test Result:
http://www.esnips.com/doc/ff7268ae-8...7/X-FI-MOD-104
Anyone knows if Xigmatek S1283 fits, with no problems on our board?