If you are going to be that lazy, then I am going to tell you no.
In fact, I cant recall anyone trying this on an Asus or Abit or any of the other nf2 boards to date..
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If you are going to be that lazy, then I am going to tell you no.
In fact, I cant recall anyone trying this on an Asus or Abit or any of the other nf2 boards to date..
m8s i need a conclusion :)
what ohm resistor i must use (ohms ??)
Use a 680
Mine originally was at 1.56vdd after i put on a 680 it sits at 1.82-1.84
May also try a 700-750
This mod helped alot.
before i couldnt even post into windows without it rebooting at 205.
now im at 220 6,2,2,2
Is this mod going to cut down my nforce's life a few more months/years or is it going to give my nforce a life of only a few months? there is a big diff. between 2 of them.
well if the answer is the first one then I don't reallly give a damn cause I do not use my computer for more than 3/4 years. if the answer is the second one then I have re-consider about modding it. :)
well seeing how this mod has been done only a few weeks ago how are we to know long term effects?
however, just remember that abit allows you to change the voltage to 1.7v in bios so that means it should be safe to run that high assumin you got ample cooling
Anytime you take on tampering with the m/b through mods you take on the chance of making a mistake and frying the board and possibly some other components. If you aren't a risk taker than leave it alone. I don't mean life and death type risks but the ones that might cost you some more money to replace HW because of a simple mistake in calculation.Quote:
Originally posted by CyNix
Is this mod going to cut down my nforce's life a few more months/years or is it going to give my nforce a life of only a few months? there is a big diff. between 2 of them.
well if the answer is the first one then I don't reallly give a damn cause I do not use my computer for more than 3/4 years. if the answer is the second one then I have re-consider about modding it. :)
I had a 3 way mod on my KR7A-R and it was working great until one day I attempted to adjust one of the pots and I turn it the wrong way, plus to fast!:) It cost me a board and VC. I didn't RMA it; could have. I just moved on to the next higher plain....:D
Thats why you dont use adjustable pots. :)Quote:
Originally posted by Ace-a-Rue
I had a 3 way mod on my KR7A-R and it was working great until one day I attempted to adjust one of the pots and I turn it the wrong way, plus to fast!:) It cost me a board and VC. I didn't RMA it; could have. I just moved on to the next higher plain....:D
No, I was trying to adjust something that I should of left alone since it was right after I got up in the morning and without any COFFEE in my tummie!;)
Heres some VDD mod eyecandy for you people.
System specs.
2400+ AIUHB week 47 @ 1.95vcore for burn in
Twinmos PC3200 6,2,2,2 @ 2.9vdimm
WD 1200JB Harddrive
GigaByte 9700 Pro
Thermalright SLK-800
This is the limits of my system on AIR. Watercooling will be here next week.
Video card is not overclocked.
This is not prime95 stable unfortunantly
3dmark
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=5592442
pcmark (reading my cpu speed wrong)
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?pcm=1002529
http://home.kc.rr.com/sminker/images/sandra225.jpg
http://home.kc.rr.com/sminker/images/superpi.JPG
Correct me if I am wrong:
Since we up Vdd, I think that replacing the tiny little inductor with a bigger one might help improving the quality of the current.
The inductor smoothes out current ripple/current rush. The bigger the coil, the better the quality of the current (but higher cost for a manufacturer)
I also suspect that this might be a reason richbastad killed his MOSFET by dialling the pot too fast since by raising Vdd, NB also consumes more amps. Without adequate protection against current ripple/current rush, one might kill MOSFETs.
According to the datasheet, IRU7313 has Vdds = 30V, continuous current drain = 6.5Amp, and Rds(on)=0.029ohm.
Lo fellas..!!
2 quickies.....does the wattage of the vpot need to be 0.75w or is it OK to use 0.25w..????
And also have anyone of you noticed if the IC itself it´s getting any hoter by doing this modd. Mabye it would be a good thing to put a heatsink on it...???
OK, i need some help. When i comes to volts resistance and all that stuff i am an ABSOLUTE n00b. i have had 0 exposure to it in my life...0.
So from what i understand, you can get those little grabbers (will radioshack have them?) and then attach one to leg 1 and one to leg 4 on that chip (yeah i know which one). Then the far side of the grabber has a spot to attach a lead on it. You then attach a resistor between the two backends of the grabbers? does direction matter?
My final question is which resistor should i use? The chipset will be watercooled, so heats not really a problem. If its easy enough to disconnect and recconect resitors i wouldnt mind having a couple. do you have to solder them to the grabbers? or just wrap the lead around the contact?
thanks
1st of all, RS does not have the right kind of grabber. They sell 'J' hook types.Quote:
Originally posted by SupaMan
OK, i need some help. When i comes to volts resistance and all that stuff i am an ABSOLUTE n00b. i have had 0 exposure to it in my life...0.
So from what i understand, you can get those little grabbers (will radioshack have them?) and then attach one to leg 1 and one to leg 4 on that chip (yeah i know which one). Then the far side of the grabber has a spot to attach a lead on it. You then attach a resistor between the two backends of the grabbers? does direction matter?
My final question is which resistor should i use? The chipset will be watercooled, so heats not really a problem. If its easy enough to disconnect and recconect resitors i wouldnt mind having a couple. do you have to solder them to the grabbers? or just wrap the lead around the contact?
thanks
2nd, it cannot work the way you want it for the SMD grabber to grab leg 1 & 4, because the end of the grabber is a single piece of copper. All you would be doing would be shorting pin 1 to pin 4.
You want to use the grabber to clip onto leg/pin 1 and then you would have a wire soldered to the grabber end. The other end of the wire would be soldered to a fixed resistor or to a variable resistance pot.
Here are similar, I STRESS SIMILAR, representations of what the project would look like:
VIEW OF SMD AND RS MINIATURE POTS
http://home.nc.rr.com/boeing/smd/parts%20needed.jpg
SMD GRABBER ATTACHED TO LEG/PIN w/SINGLE WIRE LEADING FROM IT.
http://home.nc.rr.com/boeing/smd/smd.jpg
AGAIN, I stress this is what it would look like when attached. Obviously, you would be attaching to leg/pin 1 and any case or m/b ground if using a 1K pot or fixed value resistor. It is not paramount to hook it to pin/leg 4 which is ground. ANY GROUND ON THE CASE OR M/B WILL WORK......
Yep that type will work, but I like these better....:D
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=271%2D342
These are all good Muzz! keep the suggestions and ideas coming forward. This is what this forum is all about.....:)
I agree brother Ace.........:toast:
I like how the store locator is included in the description..... self serve anyone??..... heheh
Cheers!:toast:
:thumbsup:
thanks ace :p
couple more Qs for u. in the pic it looks like your grabber is not connected to pin 1, but pin 2, am i seeing things?
I'm guessing that u can use a 1k ohm pot to have variable resitance, how do u adjust it? and when i am adjusting it, how do i tell the current resistance? i've got a multimeter, but it has a billion different settings :confused:
does radioshack sell 1kpots? u only have 10ks and 47ks in the pic
Quote:
Originally posted by SupaMan
thanks ace :p
couple more Qs for u. in the pic it looks like your grabber is not connected to pin 1, but pin 2, am i seeing things?
Remember what I said, similar, so to be interpreted as NOT EXACT. Again, you are correct. For your scenario, you will use pin 1.
Pots and trimmer switches have three legs on it. You should use the middle leg as your positive connection to the SMD grabber and then one of the outer legs for ground connection. Depending on which direction you want to turn the adjusting screw to increase voltage will then stipulate which outter leg to use for ground.Quote:
I'm guessing that u can use a 1k ohm pot to have variable resitance, how do u adjust it? and when i am adjusting it, how do i tell the current resistance? i've got a multimeter, but it has a billion different settings :confused:
If you want to turn clockwise to increase voltage then you need to find which outer lug will give you lower resistance while turning in the clockwise direction. Do you understand?
And, if you can't read or use the meter then you need some basic instruction in that area before proceeding. I would take your meter to Radio Shack and ask the person to help you with that while you buy the pot or Trimmer switch.
Yes they do. Muzz gave you the link showing a 1K Trimmer switch which will do the same thing as my miniature pot. Just go in the store and tell them what you want.Quote:
does radioshack sell 1kpots? u only have 10ks and 47ks in the pic
k, thanks boss :p
He ain't the boss... he's just a pee-on like the rest of us.Quote:
Originally posted by SupaMan
k, thanks boss :p
He just wears a raincoat........:wave:
:lol:
heh..seriously though, ur all a whole bunch of help on this. 2days ago i was like "VDD who?" and now i have my parts ordered and am ready to go :p
Just be careful, don't rush, check your work ( TWICE ) and you should be fine if you use your head, and don't adjust it too fast. too fast is a very bad thing, hence MY liking the 15turn trimmers better.
Bossman knows I'm just fuggin' with him....:)
Good Luck
muzz
Hey, hey Muzz....Are you sure???!!! :p:D