that isnt a reservoir man.. its a T line... they are two seperate things.
here is the rule for tubing. short as possible with hte LEAST bends. if u have to bend somethign relaly hard to get it short dont do it.
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that isnt a reservoir man.. its a T line... they are two seperate things.
here is the rule for tubing. short as possible with hte LEAST bends. if u have to bend somethign relaly hard to get it short dont do it.
KQuote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
I know the T line isnt a reservoir, but it would be like a water tank.
Sry for mixing them up. :p:
I dont intendo to squeeze the tubing through something, problem is that the WC stuff are close together and I need to make some curvs to connect everything.
I guess Ill put the tubes as short as possible without making it kink or reduce the ID.
I still would like to know if its better to have the tip of the T line touching the tip of the pump fittingand having them holded together with the tube so it looks something like this:
http://img195.echo.cx/img195/1463/tto50z5ur.gif
The top one with tubing in between.
I disagree. Shorter the tubing the better....
So Turok .. what temps are u getting with the setup and with what overclock?
Been following this thread and the plot is really thickening :)
Cheers
lol... the plot... soap opera water cooling.
Glad you guys like my thread :D
I havent installed the tubbing because Im missing the heatcore. I just bought the core from weapon today (05/10/2005). Waiting for a email reply of the shipping date.
My best bet is that Ill have it running before the end of this week.
Almost forgot that I have to download the latest drivers and burn them on a CD so Im up to date the first time I run my system :D
Does the DFI nf4 have a software that permits BIOS flashing within windows? Im not going to use a floppy disk and my cables are tie wraped so I cant move them.
Since Im not a "pro OCer" (as I said in the beginning of this thread), I dont know much about the best benchmarking software.
What softwares can i use to benchmark my system?
I dont want any softwares that require a floppy.
Could I get more info on software like Super-Pi, Prime, etc.
I use CPU-Z, why do other people use some other software called like "Central Brain Identifier". Is it better?
CBID is just different, good to have too.
Winflash will work to flash your bios in windows, just make sure you have nothing else running (including aim and antivirus software) when you flash.
hey.
I saw someone in the XS gallery thread with a x800xl on a DFI nf4, but he had the 4pin plug being used.
I posted a question about it but decided to post here too because I get faster answers :)
From what I understand, that is only to give a SLI solution more power.
Is it ok to have a 4pin on the motherboard? If so, what are the benefits?
4 Pin 12v connectors, or P4 connectors, are on all motherboards these days since they were first introduced by Intel for thier Pentium 4's (hence the nickname "P4"). Socket A boards began to use them as well to get more stable voltages and such around the time of the nForce 2. The 4 pin connector on the motherboard is critical to stabilty and overclocking and most motherboards these days won't even work without them.
NooooononononQuote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
I didnt mean that 4 pin plug. Im talking about this one:
http://img134.echo.cx/img134/6589/4pinplug6sz.gif
Everyone knows about the P4 connector. Lol :D
Oh, so are you saying your X800 XL is using a standard 4 pin molex like that as well?
And I've heard that if you plan on using the 4vdimm option you may also need that SLI power connector on the board.
Noooooo, you got me wrong again.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
First of all, I got a Sapphire x850xt Dual DVI + VIVO.
Second thing is that Im asking who another person has the connection? What are the benefits?
Im going to add the link where I saw this so you can see it your self.
Its on the bottom of this page
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...highlight=4pin
so its only to make 4v Vdimm mod more stable? It wont overvolt the card so I can OC better? More info would be nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
I have only one free 4pin connector and its really close to the SLI power, so I want to know if its better to have it in so I can cut the tie wrap and extend it closer to the SLI plug.
Turok
Hey guys.
I finally go the monster core. :woot:
Now I have all the pieces for my rig :rocker:
I won’t post any picks until I finish.
Going to make it like a gallery where you can see how the project has been coming together.
I may open another thread for the gallery because they are a lot of picks.
Ill put a hyperlink to it when I’m done
Right now Im going to hook up the rad and the tubes and let the pump running with the PC off to check for leaks.
I have some questions:
1) How do I instal the shroud?
Im guessing you put the screws through the fins, but wouldnt that damage the core?
2) Are the fans suposed to pull air though the fins? Wouldnt it be better to blow air through the fins?
1. If the screws line up so that they go through the core, than simply put them through the fins...don't worry about breaking a few, just don't hurt the water channels going up and down the core cause then you'll get a leak. If the screws don't line up with the fins of the core, then it's probably one of his new designs that is meant to be mounted to something, putting the threaded rods on the side of the core and using the pressure of whatever it's mounted to to hold the shroud on.
2. Pulling has been proven to be better than pushing on a heatercore and most other rads. The new Thermochill PA160 is an exception as Marci has stated it performs better with the fan blowing.
:shocked: I got a leak on my pump!!! :mad:
What can I use to stop it? :( I tried rubber ceramic. Only stoped the top one but the bottom one still leaks. :mad:
Here is a pic:
http://img247.echo.cx/img247/4168/turokswc2leak1gv.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
Did you use teflon tape on the threads of those barbs? Doesn't seem like you did... :rolleyes:
The pump came with teflon on it. I just screwed them in until I couldnt go on and they leak
well put your own teflon, or seal the barbs with a lot of silicone.
I dont want to replace the teflon. Its a lot of work
The pump is really hard to get out and removing the 7/16" from the fittings is even harder. I could also spill water all over the place trying to take it off.
Ill use the cilicon, but I have a question about it.
Wont silicion morph with heat changes? Will it lift?
luckly there is a small portion of teflon on the edges so it can grip well in between, but th plastic of the fittings is really smooth so it could lift without that teflon there
Dude drain the system and reseal the fitting. Better than leaking water all over your equipment. Use liquid plumbers sealant. Also known as liquid teflon tape. It can be bought at any hardware store for a few bucks. Also don't overtighten the fittings or they will leak. Don't use silicon with teflon tape or paste. The silicon will not stick and there is a good chance the leak will come back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
You can use silicon by itself. I still prefer the liquid teflon tape.
Turok, you don't know what teflon tape is I don't think. It's thing elastic tape you wrap around the threads on the fittings before you screw on the barbs. This is not the teflon your thinking of that rough to grip and on the bottom of frying pans. Go pick some up at a hardware store and put it on and you wont have leaks anymore.
I know what teflon tape is. :slap:
I know I ask stupid questions, but its just to be safe.
Today I got a role of teflon tape.
The tubbings are really hard to get loose, so I just drained some of the water going from the pump to the CPU block. cutted that tubbe and got the pump out. Had the cap on so pressure make the watter still and took out the pump by unscrewing the fitting. I replaced the teflon and added about 3 layers of full cover. Funny you say that I shouldnt tighten too much because I got the fittings tight enough that I could see the top of the fittings form a bump. Thought this would make it harder for water to pass. Havent tested it yet. Ill be connecting the tube on the CPU block soon. The blocks where tighten by hand when they leaked and now I tighten it with help of tools. If I did something wrong, please tell me.Quote:
Dude drain the system and reseal the fitting. Better than leaking water all over your equipment. Use liquid plumbers sealant. Also known as liquid teflon tape. It can be bought at any hardware store for a few bucks. Also don't overtighten the fittings or they will leak. Don't use silicon with teflon tape or paste. The silicon will not stick and there is a good chance the leak will come back.
You can use silicon by itself. I still prefer the liquid teflon tape.
Also, when I was taking off the pump, I accidentally got a lot of watter over my 74Gb Raptor and the SATA cables :eek: . I dried what I could and went and put the HD on a window for a bit of sunlight. Afther that I ran my 80mm raptor for about 3-4 hours wile I was out doing things like getting the teflon tape. Afther that it looked dry like new. To make sure I left it about 15 min with the tornado blocking on specific zones on my HD to make sure everything is dry. Afther doing all of this, will my HD survive :(.
Should I be ok by just blow-drying the SATA cables?
Turok
Turok,i think i would place raptor on antistatic bag with breather hole up (the side with no lable) and use hair dryer to heat it up to dry any moisture that may be inside. I would do this several times. Good luck.