:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
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:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
ohhh yeah i didnt thnik of that, nvm :D
Well heatsinks arrived so i decided to see how far i could go with this weak 400 watt psu i have. Did the wire mod for vcore and followed the directions from Jeff's instructions and it booted right up at 15 X 200 no problem. loading xp now....then i will play and see what this thing can do....
Update....16x200 4 instances of D2OL....WOOT WOOT... :banana:
What heatsinks did u get
http://smly.org/smly/woot.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by Redp5
I got the Cooler Master Heatpipe 01s.....I havn't loaded anthing to see what my temps are yet, but it is still cranking candidates..... :banana:
Change the original message a little today:
* Added a couple warnings.
* Added a new D1 stepping to the list.
* Added u-wires required for 1.5v instead of 1.6v
* Added a picture and description of the alternative(and easier) Vddr mod.
BTW, I think you really only need 1.5v Vcore. I am testing right now and I have not noticed any poorer of an overclock going to this voltage. And things seem to run a few degrees cooler too so you may just want to try 1.5v first.
I realized that lowering the voltage really helps your temps. But WOOT!!! 3.2 ghz!!! :)
@Jeff...I think you lost the last picture that shows the 200 FSB Jumper....at least i dont see it. I havn't had a chance to tweak yet, so i may not need the vddr mod....
@Jeff... put a link to the "Bulk order" thread after or before?????Quote:
eBay is the best place for low voltage processors right now. LapCompute is selling a pair for $99 plus shipping, here is link to his auctions: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZlapcompute
The only reason I'd be against it is because Jeff's bulk orders are really meant for the XS D2OL team, and Jeff's Xeon guide is fairly popular outside of this site . . .
What you could do is put in "if you're a member of the XS D2OL team, see this thread" or the like. :banana:
Thar she blows! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
that led in tiny no wonder i didnt think i had one lol, i think my nf7-s has those, very very bright little guys
Thanks Jeff for the awesome guide!
I have a question about the vddr mod though. When looing at the 3 solder pads as in the picture in the how-to guide, what does each pad do? (ie which is ground, which is the point to solder the other leg of the vr, and which is the location to measure voltage) I have read it, it just isnt sinking in for some reason....
Also, I have a 600w OCZ, will that cause any problems (not in relation to the vddr mod, just over all)?
I thank you again for all the info and help....
Gotta go to work now and make some money to buy another dualie set-up.
I don't think the OCZ 600watt will cause any problems... :slobber: :slobber:
It will keep you from having a lot of problems if anything! :up:
It might just cure world hunger!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lv_dicedealer
if u look at the first vdim mod pic u see the three solder pads the one on the far right is marked with a black do this is where u measure the vdim voltage with a multi meter. (to do this place the positive lead of the multimeter on the far right solder pad and the negative lead on one of the screws that holds the mb to the chassis) the pad in the middle is what u connect to on terminal on ur pot, connect the other terminal of the pot to ground( i use one of the screws that holds the MB to the chassis)
i dont know what the far left solder pad is or does but it is NOT and ground so dont mess with it or it could short something n kill the board
:toast:
i think ull really like that xeon rig i certainly love mine :D
@Jeff - just got back from RadioShack (best I can do around here *sigh*) with the goods, if you'd like I can take some pics and do a mini-writeup on the Vddr mod - I know it's any easy one, but 1st timers might like to see some tips from an experienced hardware destroy . . . umm, modder ;)
Other items of note:
* My REV 1.05 PC-DL has a clip-lock across the entire ATX 2.0 socket - strange the 8pin EPS connector doesn't have the same . . .
* The Thermalright NB1/NB1C does fit, it's a bit snug w/ CPU2's HSF but for those who want something better than the passive heatsink, it works :)
* GOOF-OFF works great on the pink-stuff type TIM on the northbridge - of course, it's not even needed for the VRM HS, that pillow they call a thermal pad comes right off :D
* Do the SB/other VRM's (other than the ones above the AGP) warrant cooling? I'm sure a lot of us have spare little heatsinks for this sort of thing, if not they're EZ to come by.
* Is one of the DIMM socket pairs recommended (i.e. both blue or both black)? Didn't know if you'd had better luck in 1/3 or 2/4 . . .
That's all I could think of :D
Sounds good to me. The more simple we make it on everyone the better. http://smly.org/smly/cheers.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by matt9669
Yeah, this was mentioned in a different thread but not here. The last 4 PC-DLs I've seen have had the new extended lip on that connector. Makes using 20pin power supplies a little safer.Quote:
* My REV 1.05 PC-DL has a clip-lock across the entire ATX 2.0 socket - strange the 8pin EPS connector doesn't have the same . . .
Yep, I've used that and while it seems to work fine, I didn't notice any increase in overclock or stability so it's one of those, "do it if you want to" type things.Quote:
* The Thermalright NB1/NB1C does fit, it's a bit snug w/ CPU2's HSF but for those who want something better than the passive heatsink, it works :)
Can you even beleive that they used that gum on the VRM? It's an absolute JOKE! http://smly.org/smly/piss.gifQuote:
* GOOF-OFF works great on the pink-stuff type TIM on the northbridge - of course, it's not even needed for the VRM HS, that pillow they call a thermal pad comes right off :D
I did add a few extra heatsinks to the first couple boards I put to work, but not since. Again, "do it if you want to". ;)Quote:
* Do the SB/other VRM's (other than the ones above the AGP) warrant cooling? I'm sure a lot of us have spare little heatsinks for this sort of thing, if not they're EZ to come by.
I've only ever used the two blue sockets. :shrug: Never got the urge to try the other ones. Go ahead... give it a whirl.Quote:
* Is one of the DIMM socket pairs recommended (i.e. both blue or both black)? Didn't know if you'd had better luck in 1/3 or 2/4 . . .
That's it? ;)Quote:
That's all I could think of :D
Cool, I'll get to work on that when I can. Kinda busy at the moment (keep this on the d/l but talking to OPP, lol) . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
Dude, the VRM's would be better off naked than with that thing - it just flopped off like a piece of foam!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
You know Jeff, I am a mod now . . . :devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
A couple of questions.Where did you load the pic of the 1.5 u-wire? and does anyone have pics of the IWT's mounted?
http://home.earthlink.net/~adventure...DL-16vcore.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Plum Ugly
Just do the top two u-wires for 1.5v(~1.45v actual on the PC-DL).
And I've been meaning to get a picture of those IWTs mounted. If there isn't a picture posted here in the morning I'll try to snap and post one before work.
OK thanks! I got 8 sets of those IWT's with the link to ACMEmicro you gave and they have a plastic wind tunnel setup that doesn't look like it fits to well on a PC-DL mb.
It really seems like it should be ground seeing as how some other folks were using conductive pens to link the two pads together and got a 0.8v increase in vddr. If it isnt a groung then Im really bummed, i soldered a spare fan header in those 3 spots (the pads are actually holes that go thru the mb), I was planning on making it look nice and tidy :(Quote:
Originally Posted by chipmonk010
It's not a ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by lv_dicedealer
Easy test - run the board, voltmeter high end to this point, low end to ground - run it for a while, stress it etc. see if there's any potential difference. I would also watch startup/shutdown, but if Jeff's right (I'm guessing 99% he is, lol) there should be a difference in potential at some point.