so, this means that the Antec 1200 (no oc version) sucks for this job..?Quote:
Originally Posted by SoF
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so, this means that the Antec 1200 (no oc version) sucks for this job..?Quote:
Originally Posted by SoF
My first DCII was able of 1200mhz core only, no matter voltage.
Was using antec tpq-1200 and tryed revo1250w too.
I'll try second in these days
max 1200/1300 temp idel -196c an load -176 to -186c
psu CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 1000W
No...Quote:
Originally Posted by SoF
I modded another CU2 same way and reached easy 1394 in a few minutes...
Not all cards can get higger frequency...
The mods are correct and working fine.
Steponz card haves the same issues than mine i think..
I can t use more than a VID mod (+0,4) and the bench will crash...max ~1.35V and get about 1220 Mhz Vantage...
Thats mine VGA issue
TPQ 1200 Antec
multi rail okay here :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SoF
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules/NDR...0/DSC05308.jpg
Great job as usual Splave ;)
Splave....THAT'S SICK!! Glad you found a good un!!! :up::up:
killing it as usual bud, thats what I like to see:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
looks like you found a nice chip as well congrats
seems like multirail is okey also. I use the antec 1200 and after some modding the card runs 1400Mhz Vantage.. almost.. hehe.. losing about 17C in the start of tests, thats the reason. (at 1.57v)
1353Mhz went fine at 1.51v. I ran pll 1.31, vmem 1.89v and vgpu 1.51v.
no coldbug is SWEET! or CBB.. -186 all the time.. ahhh
EDIT: my insulation and info on the card: http://www.diskusjon.no/index.php?showtopic=1311993
Looking good dpa :up:
Nice to see you back in the game dpa! Good looking setup :)Quote:
Originally Posted by dpa
Quote:
Originally Posted by G H Z
thanks. changed to a fat tek now, seems to be better.. tho I got some memory artifacts after 5min.. need to fix that issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinc
Insulating the room around the core, especially mems, with eraser is not the best way. Maybe mems are getting cold and that keeps you back.
seems like my max in vantage is 1375mhz... remounted the pot, and used more paper between pot and pcb.. seems like there is no artifacts anymore now :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sofos1990
with PPL mod done and tuned at 50kohm (starting position) how much VPLL do you read ?
it's normal i have 1,25V ? i havent touched the VR, only soldered and tuned at 50K
^ sounds about right, I think I had 1.27v
Guys that have cards that suck, how are they failing? Do they cut the power to your computer? BSOD? Straight freeze the display?
so it's normal that with 50Kohm VR i have a gain of +0.2V ? without mod is 1,05V lol :D
10 failing are : 8/10 grey screen, 1/10 BBSD, 1/10 reset
lol :D
seems like reset driver is temp related.. using noctua paste atm and it totally sucks (this retail tube is VERY "watered").. the bundled version is alot harder and darker.Quote:
Originally Posted by KanGaXx
what paste are you using splave?
Today I did some testing with my second Direct CU II card. This card is very impressive, but I did not manage to get satisfying results out today. I thought to share my findings.
The way I test the card is following:
Voltages I use are:
(Antec HCP PSU or corsair AX 1200W)
VGPU 1.55V-1.6V
VPLL stock -1.35V
VMem 1.88-1.9V
(Full pot temperature from sensor is -174, so values are not 100% correct. They will just give the idea about it)
1.) Use OCZ freeze thermal paste. It is clearly the best for this use. Use a lot of it.
2.) Cool down to -60C and see if 1200MHz works. If no artifacts and issues, go to step 3.
3.) Cool down to -80C and see if 1300MHz works. If no artifacts and issues, go to step 4.
4.) Cool down to -120C and see if 1400MHz works. If no artifacts and issues, go to step 5.
5.) Cool down to around -130C and try to run Hwbot Unigine heaven at 1450MHz. Go colder after the start of the benchmark.
The issue I have is, that when I go over -135C without 3D load, I hear that crack or snap and card wont run at all. The contact between GPU pot and core just get loose and the bondage between them is lost.
Then i just back down to 1200MHz and let Hwbot heaven benchmark run 30 seconds. After that you are usually able to continue :up:
The load these cards produce is so huge, that contact between GPU and pot must be optimal. I think my main issue have been too tight and too firm contact. I need to learn how to install pot "badly" to get it working better..locigal haha.
So the ones who struggle with their cards, start slowly with temperature and check that pattern I wrote with the clocks your card can do for sure.
Most of them should be able to hit those same values with same voltages and temperatures. If you have direct lockup in the beginning, your contact have gone bad by too cold temperature. Then you need to back down and try again after short warm up.
If you have colorful "stars" on the screen it is most likely bad contact and too high clocks for it. The same frequency can usually be done without any "stars" on the screen, when contact is ok.
I don't have too much time to bench before end of the upcoming summer, so this will be bugging me for sure.
I was 8 seconds away from finishing the benchmark today and I think that is it from this spring :D
Have fun with your oc adventures! We will see later this year! ;)
Thanks a lot for you tips :)
when you say "VPLL stock 1,35V" you mean that you did the mod without touch the VR (50kohm set) and you have 1,35V ?
OCZ freeze (seems to be 2 versions or batches Im using the harder grey version)Quote:
Originally Posted by dpa
All have all kind of issues...
Grey screen, blue screen, stars, eg.
Running always about 130 or more...
Using Antec Formula 7
GPU voltage get down 0,05v when the bench starts (then i set correct voltage)
RAM voltage - go higger when the bench starts (1.74 to 1.94 for exemple)
I know is mod 2d to 3d cause this kind of stuff...
remount the pot 3 times and same issues..
I don t know if the card is more freeze than is necessary, buit i did put paper inside (pot - paper - p´cb)...and didn t solve the problem...
I think my card sucks :(
Use some different thermal paste. I have not tested antec formula 7, so can not say anything how that works. But what I would suggest is, that go to -50C first and set the voltages, which will be used during 3D runs. Then cool down to -100C and try 1100MHz for example. If it can run, try 1200MHz and then 1300MHz etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuass
If you go directly to -130C and then start benchmark + set voltages, your thremal paste have propably lost contact and you will get lock up or black screen.
Grey screen is usually too hot gpu for the voltage +MHz combination. Blue screen is something weird and I have never seen it with these GPU's.
So try again with easier style first.
My rought approach have been giving a lot of issues since GTX 480 Lightning. I saw these issues first time back then and finally I have learned from my mistakes. Well, almost :D
Guys, where do you get the OCZ Freeze? It's EOL and I can't find it anymore :(
call ocz, they had a warehouse full :) my team did a group buy a while ago