Any update on the 120 version gabe? I'm really looking forward to this compact version.
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Any update on the 120 version gabe? I'm really looking forward to this compact version.
Relative to using a 220 or 320 drive series in conjunction with a radbox and clearance issues. When I mounted mine I used the radbox + 120X38mm Yate Loon fans. The extra width of the 38mm wide fan gives you a little more wiggle room, and if things are really tight you can use a 38mm with the rad box and regular width 120s on the bottom.
A question specifically for Gabe though. I've had my MCR Drive Series system up and running for about a week now (replaced a loop consisting of MCR220-QP, MCP655, MicroRes and Apogee GTZ). And I get a constant popping/ticking noise that seems to be coming from near the top of the radiator inside the reservoir. I'm sure it's not the pump (that was my first concern) I've got good and steady head and pressure and I actually listened to it with my daughter's stethescope (or however you spell it). I've got the 220 with the MCP350 pump that comes factory with the unit. The system appears to be fully bled at this point - i'm using clear tubing and the flow going into the Apogee GTZ block is foam and bubble free. Of course the flow coming out of the water block is disturbed and is flowing back into the inlet of the radiator. Any help you can give would be appreciated. The reservoir has been opened and topped off now twice and at this point is full to the fill hole. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, because I love the setup but this noise is driving me bonkers :(
@wevsspot
I've been running a 360 Drive since they came out. The best way to fill & bleed, is to build your loop and fill outside of the case. Put the radiator as the highest point and dangle the loop. I put the rad on the edge of a table, dangling the hoses and blocks. Fill throttling the pump motor until there is no air in the loop. To seal the rad, I top off the rad fill port to a reverse miniscus and then screw the stopper in, wiping any excess water that spills.
Now you should be good to go. Install loop back into case. The loop should be silent after that. The pinging you're referring to is a small amount of air in the loop.
Sailin - thanks for the quick response and thanks for the confirmation on the pinging noise coming from the radiator and nothing else. However, excuse my lack of "smarts" on some of the things you recommend. I'm just a simple boy from Arkansas and I'm not sure I understand your procedure and I definitely don't know what a reverse miniscus is :(
Once you build the loop outside of the case (which I did for a 24 hour leak test) how do you keep the loop sealed for installation into the rig? If I break the hoses down from the fittings I'm introducing air again right? I'm attaching a photo from my post over at OCC forums to show you how my installation looks. Any advice or clarification you can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
p.s. My reservoir is slightly higher than the cpu block mounted using a radbox and 120mm fan holes/spacers etc.
Regards,
Jerry
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4263/dscf2199z.jpg
By wevsspot, shot with FinePix S3100 at 2010-04-02
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1683/dscf2192j.jpg
By wevsspot at 2010-04-02
Wevsspot,
(face palm) I responded thinking of how I put my loop into my CM Stacker. I have the original Stacker. I have the option of putting the power supply at the top or bottom of the case. I keep my power supply at the top of the case.
I removed the back plate on the bottom of the case and pass through the blocks and hoses the opening. I keep the 360 on a rad box outside the case. It's a very simple, straight forward solution that makes for removing the loop very easy.
In your case, your power supply sits at the bottom of the case and you route the tubing through a pci slot. Thanks for the pic of your rig. I didn't realize that you had to build the loop in place.
I have tried bleeding the 360 without removing it. It takes much longer. What I did was throttle the pump on / off to move the air bubbles to the rad. I left the stopper off to see the bubbles coming up. That worked until I had very small fine bubbles. I worked those out by slightly over filling the rad, jogging the power on/off, then releasing the pressure from the rad by removing the stopper. Repeated this for about 15 minutes and repeated over a few days. I ended up getting out 95-98% of the tiniest bubbles. Every once in a while I hear one of those ticks / pings.
In my earlier post, what I meant by a reverse miniscus, was that I over filled the rad a small amount to the point of where the water was just ready to overflow from the fill port. This guaranteed that no air would get into the rad when closing the stopper.
The one draw back to Swiftech's rad / res design, is that if one builds the loop in place, it's almost impossible to remove all the air from the loop. I had a 220 rad / res and found that I really needed a separate res or T-line to remove 100% of the air from the loop.
For me, the 360 is pretty convenient, easy to remove and maintain which is what I was after. HOWEVER, it only remains that way if I use my current case. If I changed my case to something similar to your case, (knowing what I know now)I'd stick with a separate reservoir solution.
Would this set be good to use for my 3x275GTX set up? I get pretty high temps with stock air (75 to 80).
Sailin - thanks again. When I got home last night I did some research on "reverse miniscus" and kind of discovered what you meant. When I first saw the word all I remembered was when I tore my miniscus playing baseball and couldn't figure out what the heck that had to do with bleeding a water cooling line :)
Anyways, when I got home I actually did a hybrid of your idea. First thing was to try and improve tubing flow exiting the rear of the case. Fewer really sharp bends and no kinks (as of yet anyways). Then I refilled the loop to about 3/4 full in the reservoir and actually tipped my computer upwards from the rear at about a 45 degree angle to get most of the radiator slightly above the cpu block - that frickin' case with everything inside/on it is a heavy son-of-a-buck.......
Powered the pump on and off several times - then set everything upright again. Removed the fill plug and let the air bubbles escape - wiped off some foam and topped off the res until it was overflowing into a cup below the radiator (that reverse miniscus thing :)). Repeated process about five times and the loop is actually pretty darned clear now. And best of all it is silent :) Oh how I love peace and quiet in my old age.
Anyway, will probably have to repeat the procedure a few times from now, but that's ok since you enlightened me to the secret. I don't mind doing that 1/2 has much as I hated opening up my old case, having to move cooling lines from the pump, reservoir, blocks etc. just to change a frickin' video card or put in a new sound card.
I really appreciate your help.
My temps at both idle and 100% load are as good as they were with a MCR220-QP, MCP655 pump and Res. I'm sure some of that has to do with the reduction in restrictions in the loop because of the various fittings, bends etc. on my old loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by YooNiBaLL
With the MCP350 I think the key is going to be flow and head pressure. I'm not sure how well the MCP350 pump would handle the restrictions caused by three seperate water blocks.
However, you could always opt for the Drive Series Radiator without the preinstalled pump and put a MCP355 on it instead.
I guess the other major consideration will be mounting orientation and location. With this setup there is only "one" recommended default orientation and that is with the reservoir at the top, radiator in the middle and pump at the bottom. The Swiftech site shows a couple other possible orientations but they all recommend the use of an additional res placed well above the pump to make sure the pump never runs dry (it isn't a self priming pump).
If you want to hang the pump off the back of your pc using a radbox or the likes then this would be a good alternative instead of dealing with a stand alone pump or res. I'd still wait for an expert to comment on whether the stock MCP350 will play nice with a three block loop though.
@wevsspot Sidewinders will swap the mcp350 for the mcp 355 for like 5 $ or something . The option is there on the MCR drive product page .:up:
Just got my MRC 220 Drive and Apogee XT delivered to me all the way in india ! My aunt brought this down for me :p: ( sweet Aunt :D )
Thank you Gary at sidewinders for everything and awesomely quick shipping.. :)
Thank you Gabe @ swiftech for making this awesome product. This thing could really sell like hot cakes in a country like ours.
Our i7's are burning up..:yepp:
I really hope you guys do come to india soon ! :up: *hint hint* :p:
Forgive the average pictures.. i have a pretty old crappy cam.:shrug:
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Currently Flushing the rad with warm distilled water.
Should i clean this with club soda ? :shrug:
Thanks a ton guys !
This is really clever, glad to see some innovation still running strong. NICE!
Curious why the MCP350 was chosen over the 355? Granted the thermal result differences are small and I think you can modify it to 18V, I'd personally rather have the 355 to start with.
Also has the integrated pump top been modified over stock for better efficiency?
I just didn't see any pump performance PQ curves on the site. I'm guessing it would be similar to a stock MCP350, perhaps better due to the removed inlet 90.
According to Swiftech, the pump performance curves are similar between the integrated and stand alone versions of the MCP350. However, I disassembled mine on arrival to have a look at the guts and I think just based on design it probably performs slightly better than the standalone. The machining quality is fair to good, although if you had a small dremel you might be able to improve flow and reduce turbulence a little bit by putting a chamfer on the outlet channel opening (pump housing side). Other than that, no burrs, not a lot of machining tool chatter, cuts were clean, drilled holes looked good etc.
One of the benefits of using the MCP350 at 10W is that this pump is virtually silent.
I'd have to guess because Swiftech is a little bit more friendly to the cost conscient water cooler and their products are usually also beginner friendly that the 350 just made more sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Guys just a couple of questions..
1)would a DDC 3.25 fit the MCR 320 Drive ? and
2)would it be more silent than the 350 that comes on the Drive ? the 350 has a perticular whine to it that i can hear.
3) which is the most silent pump that i can use on the MCR drive series and also the most silent stand alone pump ?
Thanks a ton for the read guys
:)
Update pics of MCR 220 Drive used in LianLi Lancool case;
http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/6493/dscf2203b.jpg
By wevsspot, shot with FinePix S3100 at 2010-04-19
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/9720/dscf2209b.jpg
By wevsspot, shot with FinePix S3100 at 2010-04-19
Will the MCR320-Drive be same as using the Swiftech MCR 320 QP and MCP 350 for a i7 setup(cpu loop only)? Is it any good?
Gabe commented earlier in the thread that the combo you've described would be good even when adding a pair of GPUs to the loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by vinay
I missed that point.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevikev
Well then its very good so i can skip all the tubing problems..
Thank you..
Are replacement pumps available for this radiator system? If so, how much do they cost?
Any DDC model will fit and work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coil Spring
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/DDC32PumpTopTesting.html
According to this article, a pump top having an inlet with a 90 degree bend hurts efficiency.
Does the swiftech pump housing eliminate this problem like the other aftermarket tops?
@ Coil Spring ,
yes the inlet of the pump comes straight out of the bottom of the radiator. Its just like an after market top .
j
Gabe mentioned this was coming out as a kit? if so when? also i cant find MCR Drive in any uk online shops, only one i found was dutch.
Performance should be great on a i7, i dont think i'd put a gpu in the same loop though unless the pump was more powerful. could always add a second for the gpu.
this does look pretty damned cool! If only I hadn't already bought 2 mcp655 and a bunch of mcr's... Damn you and getting new products out before I can break the old ones! ;)
Is the Swiftech MCP350 quieter then the MCP355?
Yep, according to the Swiftech web page, it was not recommended to use the 355 in cases where you wanted low noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by james111