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Woo thanks for the answers guys :) Alrighties soullless I will answer your PM when I get back mate, just rushing off to work now.
I will check if it gives any sounds, but I am afraid I'm a little retarded sometimes, and it might have been glaringly obvious and I just overlooked it :)
I'm told speedfan is the program to use however.
Well let me know if you figure it out, got me wondering now .....
Couple of teaser pics guys, coz I am actually gonna drain and take it all apart again tomorrow and redo it all a bit neater. Let's just say this first run was the trial run :) Now I know how it goes together I can do it better the second time.
http://members.iinet.net.au/~dreamax...d/fittings.jpg
http://members.iinet.net.au/~dreamax...shed/tygon.jpg
Motherboard is so pretty :)
http://members.iinet.net.au/~dreamax...otherboard.jpg
Will keep you all updated :)
OOOOO SHINY ...... :)
Looks great :up:
ha i like the first pic purple fluid looks really good.
Got 14720 marks for 3D Mark Vantage yesterday. I'm quite happy with that, for my stock setup. My CPU temps at max load were around the low 50s which seems a little high. What does everyone think? GPU didn't go above 45 deg C :)
I don't think you need to be concerned about 50s for your i7 if it was at load. I'm running mine 24/7 @ 3.6GHz and it hovers at 56 degrees with the CPU loaded 100%. Ambient is about 23 degrees, and this is with it's own PA120.3 radiator, but with fairly low speed S-Flex E fans.
More pics, please :)
Yeah more pics of your the whole rig, not just components. You are such a tease =__=.
Yeh I'll put up pics when I'm happy with it guys ;) Pulling it apart today to rebuild with neater cabling.
Patiently waiting for complete rigs pics :DQuote:
Originally Posted by dreamaxx
bad news - bad things have happened to my fan controllers. Think I'm going to have to buy two new ones. One did magical electrical smoke of doom when I tried to plug my fans in to test. Also there is something wrong with my 92mm fans (which was there before the magical smoke of doom). So i will try to fix it all tomorrow if I can, otherwise I'll have to wait until I get new controllers.
No luck taking the kinky bits out of the loop either. Need to wait on some fittings I think.
:(:(:( bad day
Go simple. Go Rheobus/Rheobus Extreme.
I haven't got space, thats the problem. Damn me and my wish to have everything stealthed.
Is it that darn Scythe Kaze fan controller that's giving you trouble? I swear I think I blew mine up in 3 days ... it still works, but the some of the LEDs won't light. I think they are very sensitive.
Don't get discouraged ... these things do happen (spent a good portion of the day trouble shooting my stuff).
Hehe yeh I know, just sucks coz it was working (sort of) and pulling it apart to neaten up all my cable management has actually caused me to destroy stuff. lol. And now i'll have to wait a few days for replacements coz no local shops have those fan controllers. So boohoo for me :( but yeh, both controllers are giving me grief now, they both have issues.
rheobuss extreme FTW.
i only use my kaze master for temp probes now. Thats it.
don't worry dream, these things happen.
which controllers are you going with?
OK so I have *i think* solved the problem of the 92mm not changing speed when I try to use the fan controller. There is a short actually in the fan (on the circuit board) which means that when the LEDs are plugged in getting 12v if the fans are also plugged in then regardless of what they're meant to be getting, they get 12v through the LED wires! Dammit! No idea how to fix this, but I can see the extra little bit of solder which is trailing across the trace on the circuit board. And they're damn noisy so I really wanna be able to quiet them down.
you have an excellent build going, my hat is off to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamaxx
i would like to preface this advice by saying that it is a dumbass idea. but it's worked for me. to break that solder trace on the fan pcb, you can use a heat gun and a safty pin (or paper clip, staple, exacto-knife... whatever is handy). use the heat gun to soften the solder, it's so very hard to keep it from melting and causing an even bigger problem (because the heat gun will try to melt ALL the solder on the pcb), then use the safety pin to seperate the two circuits. it's simple in theory, but it takes great skill. if you try this, best of luck!
subscribed;)
I have a friend who is well into electronics (owns a company that makes the PCBs for on board flight controllers and cameras and stuff for remote control planes). He may be able to help me. Thanks for all the compliments everyone! :) Will keep you all posted on how it goes.
Ahh, what a shame :mad:
And like every one is saying. this stuff happens.
Take your time doing the repairs.
Also if these troubles continue during your repair, then a take a day off from the rig.
I tend to rush myself when this kinda stuff happens, then leading to other problems i have created by me lack of attention.
:up: So be happy and content, what you have created is a milestone in itself :up:
So I had a look at the innards of my Scythe fan controller today, and when I took it apart I noticed what looked like a broken LCD. You know when you broke your phone screen, back in the days of non colour screens? How the non-see through bit goes all black. It kind of looks like that, except just in the bottom left corner, but I'm assuming that is why it isn't working anymore. God knows how that broke. Does anyone know how else other than pressure you can break those screens? Coz I doubt it had any pressure on it (it's behind a pretty good plastic cover). I did dremel away some of the case, but I doubt it got very hot. But could the heat do it? Maybe it got hotter than I thought it did.
Did you do any wire (harness) work on the controller?Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamaxx
This happened to me as well when i hooked up the plug backwards on the controller itself.
A nice puff of smoke and then no display :(
i dought it was the heat from the dremel. it could've been DOA or somehow got damaged while you were prepping. send it back and as long as there is no mods to the casing or wiring, you should get a new one.
That's perfectly normal for the Kaze's. I can't seem to find the pic ATM but you can see it in the video I made on how to convert the Kaze to device that supplies power (without control) and a monitor. It's about :54 seconds into the video.Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamaxx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwr6W...e=channel_page
That was a brand new out of the box unit I used for that and you can clearly see those black marks on each corner, and it works just fine.