XC, what was your temp before you do the mod washer?
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XC, what was your temp before you do the mod washer?
The fan needs a simple revision. Other than that, this fan is awesome.
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XV920R
I would like to try this. Does anyone have a source for TT120 brackets? Would a Big Typhoon bracket work too?Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
Anybody that has done this mod in some way, does the 120 still move some? I have tried this with a vinyl washer and both times I have mounted it the hs still moves when mounting the fan. The screws are tightened all the way to the bottom. Do I need to add a second washer?
I just use 2 squares of cardboard. Works fine for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
have you tried a large size galvanized washer super glued to one of the "X" legs?....i used a 1 1/2" diameter and with 3/8" hole...works great...no movement at all.
Ace how thick is that washer?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
btw, these work GREAT on Socket F machines using the S939 clamp. :)
dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by mc2k
2mm thick
Last week I have got Q6600 G0 so I swapped my old E6600. Among first things I have noticed was unusual difference between core temperatures: two cores was about 5°C warmer on idle and up to 10°C on load than other two. Navig in his IFX-14 review noticed:
So I did the same with my TRUE 120 and temperatures equalized on the lower level. If I push to much, lower temperatures goes up. So I find a sweet spot and all my four cores have almost the same temperature idle and load. I curved a big stapler and fastened heatsink to PSU buy. Now all four core have the same temperatures: 43°C idle 61°C Prime95 load. Room temperature is 25°C.Quote:
"simply pushed on the heatsink towers, towards the top. Pow! Instant drop 2-3c off load"
Quote:
Originally Posted by happ
sounds like your mount is loose and thus, putting pressure on it lowers the temps...i'm not sure your putting a curved stapler on a single or several heatpipes and then fasteneing that to your PSU is going to help in additional cooling...i just can't see it or visualize it.:shrug:
EDIT:...i recommend you clean the dust off those fan blades...you will lose efficiency via a reduction in cfm output.
your picture:
Judging from the pics is the rear exhaust fan being used as an intake? Is the fan on the TRUE being used as a suck or a blow? I am wondering cause if the rear fan is an intake and the fan on the TRUE is a suck then you have two fans facing eachother forcing air at each other doing nothing. If that isn't the case and the fan on the TRUE is being used as a push are you just letting all your hot air from the CPU be dumped into the middle of your case? I could be wrong but judging from the fan blade position on the rear fan it looks to being used as a intake.
It is Lian Li G70 case, so its rear fan is used for intake by default. Fan of the TRUE is used for push. Hot air from the CPU is not dumped into the middle of the case because I made a 140 mm blow hole on the top of the case.
It is just one stapler, and I don't see how it can interfere with additional cooling.
And yes, I cleaned the fan.
If anything, if you are putting pressure on that "hook" to hold up the TRUE you are most likely taking away from its cooling properly by putting pressure on it to pull up and whatnot.
And you need to do some wire management :)
IMO you'd be better off turning the rear fan around, and then mounting the fan on the TRUE as either push or pull, but towards the rear of the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by happ
Cold air from front intake go through three hard disks and need 20 cm more to reach TRUE's fan, becoming even hotter passing over XFX 8800 GTS. From rear intake cold air go directly to TRUE's fan and need only few cm to reach it. Hot air go directly up through blow hole. I have one more 120 mm fan on the side blowing cold air to GPU. Hot air from there go up through blow hole, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dublin_Gunner
Before the hook core temperatures where, say, 43 43 48 48. Now that are 43 43 43 43. Even if I manually push heat sink toward MB temperatures are the same. So I presume it is not harming colling potential of the TRUE.Quote:
If anything, if you are putting pressure on that "hook" to hold up the TRUE you are most likely taking away from its cooling properly by putting pressure on it to pull up and whatnot.
Stapler is just first aid. I am going to make something more reliable. But primary idea was to prevent heat sink to lean down and put uneven pressure to CPU. And due to gravity, it will happened no matter how firm you screw down the heat sink, or MB will bend. On my old E6600 it was not so obvious since it is only one piece of silicon in the middle. With quads it is much more notable because there are two pieces, none in the middle. The problem seams to be widespread. Go trough the forums and you will notice a lot of question about uneven quad core temperature. I hope this little trick can help.
Yes even I was wondering whether that ~800 grams of heatsink would bend the mother board when it is tilted horizontally? Can the pins connecting the Heatsink to motherboard hold the weight of the massive heatsink ?
What happ has done seem appropriate , but i would use a thread or plastic strap rather than a metal one , if there is leak or short of current then that might be tramistted from chassis to heasink to CPU :( .
I am not comfortable with heatsink standing ----- ( horizontally) .
Glued a 1 1/2" washer on mine today when my quad came and it is nice and snug now, no movement at all.
I just purchased a 1.5" round, 3/8" center hole, 2mm thick washer (thanks Ace-A-Rue) for my TRUE when it arrives next week and I too was wondering how I should attach it. I was thinking of leaving it loose but would that make the installation too hard? If I crazy glued it would I be able to get it back off in case it makes installation worse? I am just worried about gluing it to the heatsink just to find out it is added too much pressure and is bending/cracking the board. That is a no no on a brand new $300 board.
i let the super glue dry for about 5 minutes and then attach "X" clamp...when i dismouted the TRUE the washer was free from the "X" clamp....you'll be good!:up:
cool so it easily comes off, sounds good. Thanks.
Man if he needs wire management I need a wire extreme makeover.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosMinionX
Nah, there's nothing wrong w/ his wires. Some folks just have to stick everything behind the board. :D
I just received my new parts including the TRUE but am surprised at something. The X bracket does NOT have the white washer attached to the center screw of the bracket. This was ordered from NCIX last Thursday and was apparently new stock from Thermalright themselves. Any reason why that white washer wouldn't be included? Is this going to be a problem with the mounting? As per Ace-A-Rue's suggestion I purchased a metal washer from my local hardware store with the dimensions of 1.5" diamater, 1/16" thick and 3/8" center hole. The center hole measurement is what I am concerned about. Without the white plastic washer under the X bracket there is a lot of play room around the metal washer that I purchased that normally wouldn't be there had the white plastic washer been present to fill in that space on the metal washer. Is this going to pose a problem? Am I going to have to get a new metal washer now to compensate or can I still use this current one? If I have to get a new metal washer can anyone let me know what center hole dimensions I will need if the white plastic washer isn't present on the stock X bracket? I am delaying my build because of this damn discrepancy. Thanks.
just use some supler glue to attach it to the "X" legs....let it dry for about 10 minutes.