It's like picking chalk and cheese...Quote:
Originally Posted by halo112358
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It's like picking chalk and cheese...Quote:
Originally Posted by halo112358
3603 vs 2275, three weeks later:
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/946...1308dy1.th.jpg
The fresh 3603 is starting to yellow slightly and it's becoming slightly less clear, the 2275 appears the same as it did at installation.
My use of the 2075 has shown similar results. Although it's a milky white color to start with, it hasn't gotten cloudy or changed in color. However, I almost refuse to use it as the damn thing is so stiff it torques the barbs on pumps/blocks resulting in leaks if I move stuff around. It's a serious pain in the ass. I'm going to try to use a heatgun to "mold" the next batch I work with. Anyone have tips or insight on doing so?Quote:
Originally Posted by halo112358
BTW, I thought 2075 was the one meant for watercooling. What's the difference between 2275 and 2075?
Then it looks like we're back to square one for those who want "clear" and flexible.
has anyone checked out how clear these are?
tygon beverage tubing B-44-3
TYGON® 2001
and
http://www.professionalplastics.com/...eandreg-Tubing
Marci, looks like we need to specify more critereas to St Gobain (ie. flexibility and clarity), not just the type of coolants we use.
Im using tygon beverage tubing B-44-3 was perfectly clear when i installed it and its still perfectly clear 3 + wks later. i suspect it will stay clear ! as i stated earlyer in this thread B-44-3 is non wetting wich meens nothing should be absorbed by the tubing . that should not only help keep it from clouding but make it very easy to clean when the time comes ......
2275 is supposed to be even better about not contaminating fluids than 2075, that was my understanding anyway. I spent 15 minutes reading about both types and decided that an extra 10% cost was worth it if the tubing lasted a little bit longer... 10% extra is cheap if it means I have to change it less often ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
I agree with you that it's a real btich to work with, I used extra thread tape on all the barbs and cinched the tubing down with hose clamps. The extra work isn't terrible if you're expecting it but it's definitely not as easy as 3603. I wouldn't use zip ties or plastic clamps with this stuff.
sounds good. how's the flexibility compared to R3603?Quote:
Originally Posted by Subsider
Agreed. I care more about the flexibility than I do about how clear the tubing is. 2075 is obnoxiously stiff.Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalZone
seems to be very close to the same as 3603 maybe just a touch stiffer but def workable !Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalZone
Alright, I just placed a large order for 20ft of that tubing. If it's stiff, I'm going to find out where you live and demand my $90 back!Quote:
Originally Posted by Subsider
I just noticed that only Tygon 2075 matches R3603's bend radius... this is going to make the SLI loops hard with GPU only blocks
ive got it going from the cpu block to the north bridge block on a 680i mobo without any problems although i do have a ziptie in the center to keep it from kinking . i think that the 3603 would tend to want to kink more in this situation . also i would say its not putting any torque ect on the blocks at allQuote:
Originally Posted by ranker
as far as where i live , Rochester NY but its gonna cost ya alot more than 90 bucks to get here :D
I'm enjoying my R3400 tubing very much ! Out of sight and out of mind. Probably won't ever have to change tubing ever again lol
Hmmm... R3603 is amazing stuff it seems... You definitely don't see masterkleer's bend radius being as impressive as "generic" PURs (or at least the rated bend radius).Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
Heh there's PUR/PVC blend tubing on Mcmaster, which SHOULD be a little more clear and a little softer for you people who aren't pleased with 2075. Tygon makes some but its expensive as hell, just as usual. I'm guessing it should be acceptably clear, and make tight bends well.
Hopefully this Beverage Tygon will have the best of both worlds. I'd like the clarity and softness of Tygon R3603, but I want to know my stuff won't turn into primordial soup within a few weeks. I placed the order for 20ft. Now I'm going to have to find out what to do with the the 50$ order of 20 ft of Tygon 3603 I just purchased and the 8 ft of Tygon 2075 (40$) I have left over :(Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
I can't believe the tubing I've purchased costs more than some of the blocks I own.
lol From the description, food/beverage tubing is the exact same thing as 3603 except with a coating to prevent the plasticizer s*** from going INTO the loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
I hope so too. pretty expensive stuff, but if it does what is says, i'm gonna get some.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
Did you buy yours from here? http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...duct%5Fid=8477
mcmaster.com is probably the best place to pick it up.
http://www.tygon.com/Data/Element/No...00000000001504
no more cloudy tubes
ranker if you're going to use a heatgun only do so for very very brief amounts of time I'm sure you know that ;) You don't want burnt plastic in your case lol.
The beverage tubing should be good, but I'm thinking of getting myself a small amount of pvc/pur blend tubing. The pvc blended into it probably helps with clarity and stiffness.
just noticed something interesting. after a few months of daily use and cloud free tubing, It started to cloud up right after a week or two of not powering the loop. this is with just water and a few drops of iodine. anyone get cloudy tubing in there 24/7 loop?
I got mine from McMaster-carr. It's roughly $4 a foot.Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalZone
I believe that's just a result from using non chemical resistant tubing such as masterkleer, Tygon R3603.Quote:
just noticed something interesting. after a few months of daily use and cloud free tubing, It started to cloud up right after a week or two of not powering the loop. this is with just water and a few drops of iodine. anyone get cloudy tubing in there 24/7 loop?
I prefer to see what's in my tubes for aesthetic purposes and also to see if I got air bubbles trapped. So I'm stuck with either 2075 or B-44-3.Quote:
Yeah, I just don't want to use a heat gun period. It scares me to use a heat gun near expensive equipment.Quote:
ranker if you're going to use a heatgun only do so for very very brief amounts of time I'm sure you know that You don't want burnt plastic in your case lol.
The beverage tubing should be good, but I'm thinking of getting myself a small amount of pvc/pur blend tubing. The pvc blended into it probably helps with clarity and stiffness.
Mcmaster.com Part# 5195T76 7/16 ID
What do you guys think?
5195T77 1/2 ID 5/8 OD
5195T78 1/2 ID 3/4 OD
EDITED to correct and add more products.
*Sorry to double Post..*
Wow no responses?
53955K29 blended PVC/Polyurethane
53955K31 has a thicker wall
Tygon 2275 is available where? Mcmasters ?
5466K17 or 5624K13 ?
I need the premium 1/2" ID so Im guessing 5624K13