My HyperX is CH5, the default timings are suppossed to be 2-3-2-?, but according to CPU-Z the spd timings are 2.5-3-3-8. Its strange. My ram is running at 2.8v now BTW.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkManX_BG
Printable View
My HyperX is CH5, the default timings are suppossed to be 2-3-2-?, but according to CPU-Z the spd timings are 2.5-3-3-8. Its strange. My ram is running at 2.8v now BTW.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkManX_BG
2.8v ....they actually gets pretty hot without active cooling
I think the DFI doesn't read the SPD properly or something. My HyperX should default at 2-2-2-6, but the mobo set it to 2-3-2-5 :confused: . But the board loves my HyperX, 250MHz 2-2-2-7 with only 3.2V :eek: . On my NF7 I had to give it 3.35V for that :stick:Quote:
Originally Posted by CheesePoofs
My HyperX had the wrong SPD timings on another board too, so I think its the HyperX that is wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkManX_BG
Dunno, both my NF7 mobos read the timings correctly and so did my A7N8X... but who uses SPD timings anyway? :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by CheesePoofs
A couple of hours ago I realised that 300HTT with 5/6 divider doesn't give me 250MHz, it gives 240MHz, Tried 250, still needs 3.3V for that... :(
270MHz 3.6V is also stable though :D
i had some problem to run my memory clock more than 260 in windows(pass all test in memtest@270mhz)
really headache about it...any solution ??btw mine is 512mb bh6x2
its the ondie memory controller. keep playing with settings and or settle for now and hope that when u upgrade to venice things will be much better:)
From the day i bought DFI NF4 i have constant freezing problems in XP if i try doing more things at once, any ideas ? Bios is 2/18....etc...
:D Go back to 2/17 or try newer March BIOS............ :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
trying 3/10 now.
Anyone having usb recognition problems, try the final 310 again. They updated it later in the day and re posted it with the same file name on the main DFI site with a usb fix. The usb fix is not yet in the 310-2 or 310P beta versions of this bios.
http://www.dfi.com.tw/Support/Downlo...FLAG=A&SITE=US
i have another issue even with bois 310 .....it wont detect my NEC 3500 correct in Bios.....how to solve? With 1 stick of RAM it finds it correct
s.o.s :D
a small vcore issue on my sli-dr.
the vcore on my cpu-z are lower then the bios show.
when i set the vcore on 1.55v on the bios its show that its 1.55v, but in the cpu-z or the smartguadian its show 1.5v.
who do i believe ?
last bios : 310p.
thanks
This may just be a difference in reporting, but..................Quote:
Originally Posted by cupra
See this: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&page=1&pp=25
It has info on a voltage issue I "discovered". Basically, use the 103% Special VID, 110% Special VID, etc and leave the regular VID at 1.45 or less. I think it's a Cool n Quiet issue and seems to show up more often on newer CPU's.
try it andyOCZ
i set the vcore on the bios to 1.4v + 110% on the special vid, and after the reset the
bios show : 1.54-1.55v like its supposed to be
but the ocz and the smartguadian show 1.504 +-.
Not to worry, that is just a normal reporting error. Always believe believe the BIOS before Windows reporting.Quote:
Originally Posted by cupra
i will, thanks for your help andy :toast:
Hey guys, DFI noob here.
Anyone with an ultra modded to sli flash the bios for sli? Is the connection all thats need to run sli?
All three boards have the same bios!U only need the connection on chipset. :)
Thx a bunch!! :cool:
Np!
Hope to see some nice benches from u! :toast:
Hey guys, I tried starting a thread on this, but got nearly no responses.
How would using 4x256MB of memory affect overclockability compared to 2x256MB? They'd be all single-sided sticks of BH5...
Here's another Ultra to SLI modding tip:
Watch for the felt square on the bottom of the stock chipset fan. When the HSF is in place, the felt rides right on top of the bridge area. So if you use pencil or conductive grease it can be smeared and fail. If you use non permanent connection method (like I did using grease), you'll want to cover the closed bridge with a small peice of tape or something:)
After the mod, watch for the boot up screen to say "Nforce4 SLI" versus "Nforce4 Ultra". That's all there is to it.
One final word, watch out for the new Ultra chipsets that have the bridge covered by enamel and not easily re-connected. Nvidia has been doing this for a few weeks now and these boards will be hitting the channel soon.
They've already hit retail stores... see attached pic (SLI version).
Makes me wonder what the two covered jumpers are for (they are open on all the versions of the chipset I've looked at, NF4, NF4 Ultra, NF4 SLI)... a yet unknown perf capability? :confused:
http://img8.exs.cx/img8/1539/nf4sealbridges6qk.th.png
Good info! I cannot make out what's under the enamel in the pic though.Quote:
Originally Posted by EMC2
Anyone knows where are the voltage-reading-points for Vcore/NB and Vdimm?
Mike, if you look at a pic of an older NF4 chipset, there are two empty pad set positions.
Here's a pic of an older Ultra chipset to show you the pads now covered over:
http://img8.exs.cx/img8/5124/nforce4ultra6yv.th.png
just an FYI for those curious, I just did the SLI mod on my Ultra. I just recieved it 5 days ago.
I had no reason to do the mod other than to have it say Nforce4 SLI at startup...but what the hell...the mod was there and doable...so I couldn't resist. :D
:D Here's all You need my friend:Quote:
Originally Posted by pc ice
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets...oc.aspx?i=2322
:toast:
My ultra@sli mod pretty easy, i'm not using sli but so easy...i said to myself...what the hekk, why not :D ?
Made it with liquid silver...
http://img58.exs.cx/img58/1064/ultrasli6wx.jpg
The pic on the above Anandtech link and the one right above my post are both excellent pics of where to do the mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by pc ice
There are two horizontally oriented resistors to the right of the NF4 core. The set of pads that are oriented vertically above the top resistor is the one you need to pencil/solder/conductive paint.
While you're at it, get rid of the crappy TIM that's on the NF4 chipset fan. clean it off real good and if you want, you can even lap it (but you'll lose the shim if you do this) and then put some AS5 or Ceramique on there. It'll drop your chipset temps a bit and possibly improve your stability at high overclocks.
I think I have enough of DFI NF4 adventure....constant freezes..etc...tried new bios/ram = zip
i've a problem with dfi & 6600gt extreme..... The Vga on SLi-mode on a A8n could bench @ 600/1300 stock cooled (with vcore mod but def voltage).....Now on DFi the vga is liquid cooled and have a vcore of 1.54v..... But it don't go up 620/1220...What's the matter?
PS: Sorry 4 my bad english....
have you tried narrowing down where the freezing is coming from? from your sig you're running your chip at 2.5Ghz @ 1.425v...tried giving a little more juice? Mine was prime stable at 2.5Ghz @ 1.45v, but would have random freezes and crashes...until I bumped it to 1.5v.Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
:eek:
556?!!! crazy fast!
Umm... mine doesn't say anything when it comes up. Is there some way in windows I can check to see if the mod worked correctly? (I don't think I used enough pencil)
It will say it in the POST screen, right below the CPU/RAM information and right above the Drive information. Not sure how to tell in windows. The other way to find out is if you go into the Genie section of the Bios, a new option will appear to allow dual 6600GT support.
Note: mechanical pencil doesn't count for pencil modding...Quote:
Originally Posted by NST6563
@ackbar - it should also report it as
Motherboard Chipset.........nForce4-Ultra/SLI
under "motherboard" in Everest. available at www.lavalys.com
My mobo is ambigious! LOL! Maybe I have an unmodable newer version. The Chipset reads, "nVIDIA nForce4" that's it.Quote:
Originally Posted by soundx98
One question:
i'm doing 300*9 / 305*9 just fine but freezes at 310*9 at 1.625-1.65v....
Is it maybe the fact i don't have plugged that extra connector 5V to mobo ?
+12V is pretty low...goes even low as 11.71....any ideas ?
I've got several issues I'm hoping you guys can help me with. This is my rig:
A64 3000+
DFI NF4 Ultra D
2x512 OCZ 3200VX
Visiontek X850XT
various drives. . .
PCPC 510SLI
So I assembled the system last night and it won't even post while memory is in the yellow slots (dimm 2 + 4), and the VX won't even work in the orange slots (1+3). I tried single sticks, etc., but nothing would work to get the board up and running. I have 2x1GB Corsair XMS3200 so I threw that in; still no dice with the yellow slots but this time the orange slots work. I flashed to the 3/10 bios and now I can get into Windows with VX ram installed in the orange slots (still no dice with yellow). I installed the NF4 drivers and everything seems smooth. I do have a few remaining issues which I need help with:
1) Why won't the yellow slots work? Is there a workaround?
2) I cannot get the 4V memory line to work off of the 5V rail. I've set the jumper-block in the top right corner over to pins 2-3 but still no dice. I've got the 12V 4-pin connector beside the 24-pin connector connected. I've flashed and reflashed the bios, set optimized defaults in the 1-2 jumper position and still nada. Since I have the VX mem, you can see why this might be a problem for me, right? ;)
I'm sorry if these topics have been done to death but after 2 hours of thread-combing last night I couldn't find any answers. I really appreciate any suggestions :)
First thing to do after having all hardware ready to boot - flash bios ;)
Before that i have issues with tccd mem's and bh-5
Oh i almost forgot i've flashed with only one mem!
You have to change cpu voltage from auto to something else before you change the jumpers to get 4v memory working.Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikaeanLogic
hell i just load the .bin into Winflash check all the boxes it reboots and im done donno if i should check all the boxes but it seems to work fineQuote:
Originally Posted by Anakin_Skywalke
I checked all boxes and lost my lan connection, had to manually enter mac address in bios.
thats weird man i check all the boxes in winflash and all my stuff works fine and if i shouldnt check all the boxes what should i check?
It was weird, entering the mac address fixed it though so it was no bother
Did you check your 12V line with a multimeter? My 12V rail readings are as low as yours but my multimeter shows 12.1V. I had the same problem with my shuttle AN50R wich uses the same monitoring chip.Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
don't have multimeter....
its the board for sure - my pcp&c 510 sli reads low on the 12v line.........
This board defo read voltages low in the windows software. ITE says my 12v is at 11.78-11.84 but a multimeter says 12.16v solid as a rock with a PCP&C SLi.
that worked, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by pudds
:toast:
that sound great...couldnt really understand 12v being so low and other rails at their normal place....but my gf6800GT tells me its 72-74 degrees....with a nvsilencer5 mounted...i have hearrd something about DFI also corrupting those readings a bit....
I mentioned the problem above.
It's ridiculous that they don't calibrate it right or use another chip.
My case is not so simple .
dfi ultra-d , bios 02/09 , winnie 450
Mobo is on the table near the window , I put 3 fans 90x90 on memory, cpu and NB
i did the same test with opened window max cpu temp was 29C ( max 16M 9x306 1,55V 9x308-1M )
and closed window cpu temp about 43C (max 16M 2792 and even 2823mhz-1M )
whats going on
thats the result with closed window
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...64/chujwie.jpg
Is there any temperature issue ??? why load cpu temp 43C is more stable than 29C ????
I have my dfi ultra
NB is a 0451A3
My dfi has had no problems
Guess I am lucky
Problem:
The FAN of the chipset cooler, runs slowly and then eventually stops.
Solution and prevention:
Connect the chipset FAN directly to the PSU :).
My NB temp was 42°C (full Load) before, and 36°C (full Load) after connect the FANs directly.
What's the problem about 42°C NB temperature? The fan is temp. regulated and does only run at full speed when the temp reaches a limit which you can set in bios. When the temp falls below another limit, the fan will stop spinning at all. That reduces the noise level dramatically.Quote:
Originally Posted by KaEL
Yes I know, and for 24/7 is OK, but for OCing and to feed it with more than 1.7V Full is better.
Who cares for noise level when you are doing serious OCing. ;)
BTW, on this MB particular, when it stops, doesn't always turns again. :confused: chipset temp is above of BIOS Settings (Stops FAN speed at certain temp).
522.2 is my best fsb with 4x multiplier
508 with 5x
not bad
tomorrow I'll try again my BH-5, I tested with a TRTW at 1 and only 271 with 3.55-3.6v
next tests with 2 or 3 and I hope 290
hope to see some nice BH-5 action again :)Quote:
Originally Posted by cpulloverclock
Odd that the load temp is more stable. I actually had two Raptors that wouldn't boot on a cold day in my room (8°C) as the connectors weren't tight anymore. But when running cold is great usually - a winnie issue perhaps?Quote:
Originally Posted by wampir
my ultra-D slowly died on me. It happened where it would'nt be stable with TCCD in it. SO i ran some cheap ram in it at a 1:2 divider. Then that stopped working, so the only way now it boots with with 1 stick in Dimm 3(going away from CPU). So i'm going to be RMA'ing the board. The problem just started to creep up on me, then finally it just refuses to boot anymore. tried 2 different bioses, one of which was an official 3/10. suposed to fix memory in-compatibility. but that sure as heck isn't working.
Sucks because my CAA2C newcastle is able to do 3.15ghz on my prom.
Sad news, Skip. I truly feel for you. :(
ya man that sux:(
Bad news man, sorry :( Hope your RMA flies through fast!!
If you don't mind me asking, how many lights are lit when you try to boot and it won't? Have you checked Vmem on the 1st DIMM with a meter? (and Vcore anywhere?) If I posted up a pic with two spots to check with a meter, and you still have the board, would you mind measuring the V at them? If not, no problem bro :)
Oh... noticed the prommie comment... silly Q... if you were under Z on that board, you try a good, thorough dry out?
Best of luck and OC's with the new one :toast:
well it is gonna fly through fast, cuz i second day aired it yesterday, with early AM delivery, so they will have it tomorrow morning. so if i'm lucky, they'll have it shipped friday, which if my previous newegg RMA's are any indication, they will have it shipped by then. So i should have it back in my hands by tuesday maybe.
Also, it didn't have anything to do with the prom, i always have a stock cooler handy, so i did give it a shot with the stock cooler. But the problems were there before i put it under a prommie. It stopped working with memory clocked higher than 170mhz when it was on air. there were no condensation problems either. But just for my sake, could you post the measuring points? as the only thing i currently do with my voltmeter is just check my powersupply. I'd like to know the readpoints on the board for future reference.
On the lights: At first, it would hang at 3 lights, then got past that with 1 stick in dimm3 (from CPU). booted fine with the 1:2 divider off 320MHz. Then i got it under the prommie, booted fine again at the same 1:2 divider. but tried my gskill at 1:1. worked fine for like 5 minutes, enough for me to get a 27sec superpi. then stopped working. And refused to work with anything in the orange dimms. never tried yellow, because it would never let me boot with that anyways, gave some warning.
but when it finally had it, was when i had it in dimm3, and it would start hanging then, right before it was supposed to back up cmos. with 2 stick in, it would hang on 3 for a while, then start over and work, but hang on the post screen. So something was really funky with that board. i hope i get a winner back. I also ordered 4x512MB of the twinmos stuff, not the SP. it was 103$ per GB, i couldn't pass it up!
Thanks Skip :D Follow me over here for the pics ;)
Ok so I got rid of my A8N-SLI Deluxe before even installing it. I am looking to some fun with this board ;)
Sudden-Sold-Syndrome, eh Ivan? :p:
My DFI LanParty NF4 Ultra-D runs smoothy with GSkill LA's TCCD 440 at 300MHz with 1T on Dual Channel, BIOS 217, slots 2 and 4, SP2004 stable.
If you try slots 4 or 3 alone... the system won't boots.
BTW I'm using a 20 pins PSU :)
EMC2
Sort of like bought-for-cheap-didn't-think-it-was-such-crap syndrome. I hate ASUS [K8V, K8N-E and now this] They make substandard boards for o/c'ing.
300 7-3-3-2.5 1T, or..?
shucks, they processed my RMA today, but didn't get the board out. thats 2 lost days of shipping! so i'll have the board by thursday i believe.
asus is a good solid board to run stock, but that's about it, they are not really concerned with being #1 oc'ability, they are all about volume and their stability name. But then, even a newbie knows, any damn board is stable at stock, heh. Neve'theless, I love marketing :P
DFI performs better @ stock anyway ;)
Arrrrrg Skip... feel ya bro. Look on the bright side... just in time for the weekend ;)
@Ivan - understand about the Asus-syndrome...back when the KT266A's came out and Icrontics was rocking, got the Asus instead of the Abit :brick: Last Asus I ever bought, lol. (on topic) Get your DFI yet?
I have it but it's not put together yet. I bought it locally.
Could someone help me with a little problem? My board really runs fine, just one thing really worries me. My power regulation heatsinks get really hot to the touch...
I put a probe to the bottom of the middle heatsink, and it showed me at least the temp of the PWM reading!
Which is, in my case, ~57-65° under load! I'm with h2o here, so there's not that much airflow inside the case (yet I used every option to mount a fan).
Now, does this temperature harm them? I read that they are rated up to 125°C inside and ~70° package, right? Am I toasting my board here? Idle temp is at ~40°, so maybe these heatsinks don't sit right?
Should I put a waterblock on them? Anyone with a dead board because of overheated power regulation yet?
Have you seen benchmarks that compare high HTT speeds to lower HTT speeds?Quote:
Originally Posted by KaEL
There is no point in it. A high HTT speed doesn't mean much. 300Mhz HTT really isn't any faster then 250Mhz HTT which really isn't any faster then 200Mhz HTT. There is just too much bandwidth in the HTT link to saturate it so feeding tons of voltage to the NB so you can clock it higher isn't gaining you anything. Just give it enough to keep it stable at an HTT speed that gets your CPU and RAM where it needs to go. Dont bother with dropping the CPU multiplier to raise the HTT speed unless your doing it to clock your RAM higher.
Those temps aren't really that bad. However, you should be able to get a small 40mm or 60mm fan on those mosfet sinks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
When I water cool the DFI NF4 board, I set a low rpm fan over the memory and another over the PWM area. I route the memory fan power to the mobo CPU fan header, and the PWM fan to the system fan header and use Smartguardian to controll rpm based on idle/load CPU and pwm temps. Under load the fans kick up and cool the ram and pwm. At idle they spin down. In both situations they are virtually silent and make for better 24/7 overclocked stability.
Here's some pics:
http://home.comcast.net/~mdzcpa/imag...Water_Fans.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~mdzcpa/imag...er_PWM_Fan.JPG
I like to use small dabs of seal string for convenient fan mounting:)
Great idea, I'll try that. I was just curious if these temps are harmful to the board somehow, as a friend of mine (FX + SLI) killed 2 boards already and said his PWM was too hot... now he cools it down and says that there are no problems any more.
Mine shouldn't have to work that hard, so I had hoped to leave those heatsinks just the way they were :D
This is how it looks right now:
http://www.directupload.net/images/050327/5ptegwt4.jpg
Looks fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
But plz tell me:
What type of northbridge-cooler do you use? I´m looking for one that fits on the DFI but haven´t found one yet.
Thx + greetz,
Flox
Brilliant! However in the pics I can't really tell how you've placed the seal string. Are you using the the rubber right on the housing of the fan and then place the small fan right on the mosfet heatsinks?Quote:
Originally Posted by mdzcpa
--- Radical_53 ---
As long as you put a fan across the area, no problem on the 5V usage from heat.
Here's a mod of your pic showing a good place to put one ;)
http://img8.exs.cx/img8/9897/radical53scase9th.th.png
@flox: A German called "Sixtron" made it. It's available here in Germany, but none of the larger manufacturers brought a block yet.
@emc2: I'm not using the 5V option, still the PWM gets that hot :(
Just shows what a good fan can do... have one (DFI nF4) on my test bench that has been being abused 24/7 for the last week, never see above 35C measured on the Vmem circuit (fan blowing across the MB, not from above).Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
I used on dab on the left side attaching the left side of the fan to the waterblock mounting screw, and another dab bewteen the right side of the fan and the yellow IDE cable. The fan is about 3/4' above the heatsinks.Quote:
Originally Posted by gundamit
ahh
I´ve found one that fits on the DFI-NB. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Flox
Greetz, Flox
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flox
wow...that's helpful...however I'm sure he's looking for a bit more information than that. Like, who makes it, where to get it, etc... :p:
;)Quote:
Originally Posted by NST6563
I asked for the cooler and in the mean-time found one on my own...
So I (Flox, who answered) and he (Flox, who asked) are the same person without being schizophrenic... :p:
But for other persons who are looking for a DFI NF4 NB-watercooler:
http://www.mips-computer.de/images/dfi_freezer_01_q.jpg
Sold at www.mips-computer.de.
Greetz, Flox
hehe...hope nobody was offended by my smartass comment. :p
couldn't help it...it was early and Monday :p:
h2o
To determine whether its your mainboard or cpu, try dropping the multi to 8X and see if you can do 310.Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
Still one question, please:
What´s the height of the DFI-stock cooler and how much space is left between cooler and videocard?
Or just: What´s the maximum height of a mountable cooler?
Thx, Flox
couple a cooont haresQuote:
What´s the height of the DFI-stock cooler and how much space is left between cooler and videocard?