It's soft like gum/glue. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jcniest5
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It's soft like gum/glue. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jcniest5
Thats a NICE clean removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by kocsonya
Thank you kocsonya.Quote:
Originally Posted by kocsonya
I've updated the post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=491
Isn't there somewhere one could buy a shim that would fit on a A64 cpu if one decides to cut off IHS? ..Or maybe some of those pads that were on the older AMD cpus would help to evenly distribute the presure on the core caused by the heatsink/waterblock?
I have used the foam pad that comes with the Chip itself in the plastic container. It has worked for me in the pastQuote:
Originally Posted by -.-PhanTom-.-
Ahh, you mean "cut" it up into fitting pieces - one for each corner?Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilCloudStrife
Or simply cut a core-sized hole in the middle of it? :)
Not to speak for EvilCloudStrife , but most have been pads for the corners. However a core sized hole is an interesting idea. The pad he speaks of is large enough for the entire top and would afford some protection and potential stability for the HS/fan (waterblock) it would seem.
Yesterday I removed the IHS on my E6 Venice 3000+, and while this baby still refuses to go beyound 2800mhz, it noticeably dropped the voltage that was required to run 2700 (300x9, my 24/7 clocks), it went all the way down from 1.55V to 1.5V, and still prime stable overnight :woot:
The temps also dropped nicely (even without lowering the volts) from about 51-52C on load to about 44-45C (SLK-948u with a silent 80mm fan).
I was thinking of putting the shim from my old 9700Pro on it... :rolleyes:
Are those mini-houses cache memory? I bet the empty spaces to the left are the remainder 512KB. As much as I would like to try removing the IHS on my Venice 3200, I dare myself not to even raise my hands in trying to do so. I'm too broke to afford another CPU if I accidently damage it. I will have to kill myself if I did.
Thought i should let you guys know the success i've had with duct tape pads.
for my 170 in the sig, i got some duct tape, and it cut it into little squares, like .75cm^2. Put the squares in the 4 corners, and i made it about 4 layers thick. Perfect height, mounts well, duct tape compresses a little but not too much.
good idea, though i crank on my bt with a screwdriver and no screws to the point where the hold down plate is bending, and i have no issues without the pads...
this is on an X2 though, so my core is a bit bigger
I removed my IHS yesterday. I'm going to test it today, but first I've to find a clever way to secure the core from breaking. I guess I'll use your metod with the duct tape Absolute.
Yesterday I first tried to mount it, but I didn't dare to put much pressure on it, so it didn't make enough conntact to boot up, so I hope it's allright.
WTF, yesterday I mounted the naked core with perfect contact. But the computer turned off in 2-3sec. I will try to put the IHS back on with some epoxy.
Go to Home Depot or a similiar store and they sell these little self-adhesive pads made to put under the legs of furniture. They are perfect to use as little stabilizers for protecting the core.
The store near me had a pad that's about 4" x 4" and about 1/16" thick but it compresses pretty nicely.
I tried to remount the IHS, but the problem was still there. So I bought a new cpu, but it seems like the mobo is the problem. I have got the same problems with the mobo before so I guess I have to bite the sour apple and buy a new mobo.
Here is my latest. This is #4 for ihs removal. Just as the others I have done, only about a 50mhz increase, but for this one temps are much improved. AD0 ultra-d temps are 8-10 degrees low, but still pretty nice temps. Cooling with big typhoon, in a fully closed antec p160. Still running prime for 24 hr. Not bad for less than $150 :D
http://home.comcast.net/~majutsu/144opty.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~majutsu/1443.0prm.jpg
I'm toying with the idea of removing my IHS, however if I break it I don't have another $200 to buy a CPU with. I don't know if it is worth the risk if I'll only drop a few degrees....
I guess if I feel unsure about it I probably should go with my gut feeling and not do it.
Wow dude I felt JUST like you today. Take it easy, buy a brand new blade, and go at it. I'm a fourteen year old in high school, if I can do it successfully, you sure as heck can. Got my Venice up to 2.7GHz under 1.6v, too :D.Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
Pic: http://upload.nickfire.com//files/1/IHSLESS%20008.jpg
I just used the blade you see there, it was brand new. Some tips, prod around to find the spot where you can insert the blade. Push it in, and start pushing down, it's like cutting butter. Make sure you don't go too far in, though. Once you've gone around 2-3 times, twist the blade a bit and it'll pop right off :D. I'm very glad I did it.
Nick
How far do u guys screw the water block to the naked core?
Going to remove the IHS soon but dunno how far/tight i should screw the block to the naked core later...
With reasonable force. Dont crush the core. My opteron is pretty loose but my 3000 is tight as it'll go with no problems on either. When I say loose I mean it'll wiggle if I move the heatsink but of course it's making proper contact with the core.
i'd like to know the experiences of "A64-IHS off "owners with these Heatsinks:
-XP 90C
-XP 120Bs
-Zalman 9500Led
-Freezer64 Pro
here are the questions:
1: Did you protect the cpu corners with AXP / DURON like rounds?
2: Is the contact between HEATSINK and CPU really good? or is the heatsink slightly swinging?
3: Did you make physical modifications to mobo or socket?
4: what's the temp you get in idle and after a 32M super pi at 1.5v?
thank you, i was thinking about buying a new heatsink because my 7700Cu isn't fitting really good my IHS OFF x2 3800+, it's moving although i couldn't make the screws hold tighter.
Ah, PS: which would you choose between XP90C and XP120?
as far as i know xp90c and xp120 both clip on which is dangerous with ihsless cpus.
I have xp-120 and I de-lidded mine to apply as5 between die and spreader and glued it back on.
idle 29-31
32m load 38-40
Opteron 146, 1.525v BIOS 300x10 Ultra-D rev AD0 xp-120 with 120mm 93cfm fan
What was your temps prior to the above?Quote:
Originally Posted by dz`
I think there was bad contact somewhere before reapplying. OCCT needed 1.55v and temps were over 50
what did you use to reapply IHS? i am thinking about reapplying mine cause i'm currently at 36° w/ 7700Cu - AS5 and 1.19v and that's way toooo much i think..
PS anyone knows how to make the 7700Cu "hold" tighter on the cpu? i screwed at the max but it's still moving..
Silicone adhesive sealant to glue it back on. Smells really terrible. To physically apply the pressure I used the stock AMD heatsink that was modded for naked cores (bracket was filed down) this allowed me to reattach the IHS with higher pressure/force.
you could prolly go to a hardware store and buy some washers/spacers to get a tighter fit
here another realy bad example:
http://www.2wire.ch/ripping/bg/octs/cpu_ohne_ihs2.jpg
not mine! :D
CPU dead. R.I.P.
holy :banana::banana::banana::banana:!!!
i did nick one of the lil resistors on accident :( but my venice runs about 3c cooler idle(30c), i'll prime 'er in a few and report back in
well, load is the same temp (44c) but with 0.032 more v's (1.584)
just wanted to add, that i was high when i removed the ihs. it's that easy. lol.
updated!!! the packs that are broken are after alot of remounts, only the nicked pack on the right upper side is what i did, the a64 freezer pro did the rest.
3400+ topless lbble 0521 mpm 2710 @ 1.595v core
How do you even manage that. I've popped five IHS now, and either I'm really good or really lucky. Havn't even bent a pin on any of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by gianni-gt
do you know any of the background on that cpu, does it still work? i mean, all of the caps are still 100% contact. lol what if it did work, that would be insane.Quote:
Originally Posted by gianni-gt
Atleast none of the resistors were cut off, lolQuote:
Originally Posted by gianni-gt
wtf kind of blade was used on that? looks like it was cut off with a mini chainsaw.
I would recommend AGAINST using a Ryobi to pop the top of his next cpu.
Has anyone had trouble with their HS or waterblock making contact with the raised lip of the socket? I took a close look at my BT a few days ago and it was slightly tilted (ie: making contact with the core, but not really good contact).
Funny story, I figured I'd take off the BT and fix this but the screw heads are stripped so I can only tighten.
Overtightening into perfect contact FTW, temps are down ~8-10C.
i've done this before on my old venice and my last X2. I used a razor from an old school shaver and worked well (minus the few cuts on my fingers). without skimming all 600+ posts, is this still the same suggested means of removing the IHS or is there a better way? a simpler way? perhaps a tool that doesn't jeopardize hitting any of the resistors?!?
thanks!
Cutting through that silicone seal is pretty straightforward with a straight razor blade (single sided, otherwise you're begging for cuts). Just pay attention and go slow - I started with the corners and then did the sides. Once you figure out how deep you can safely push the blade (ie: until you're through the silicone and into open space) then it's relatively easy.
ps:
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5...hainnn7.th.jpg Funny you should ask ..Quote:
Originally Posted by SidVicious
Do you know if its possible to clip the two clips for the XP-90/120 then screw the clamp down to the heatsink? There is a LOT of force by default i know, but I wonder if the tension is lessened enough by the height difference to let you install the heatsink flat, then screw the two sides down.Quote:
Originally Posted by dz`
http://xtremesystems.org/forums/show...t=naked+xp-120
I did that for both my xp-120 and my newly aquired xp-90.
This thread is B-I-G for such a specialist topic. I guess there's just alot of hardcore b*stards out there :).
I'm here cos i'm about to buy an X2 and have read the stories of terrible IHS contact and the resulting limitation of the one core. So to save me reading all 6 hundred posts to get a good idea of how to do this, can anyone link to a guide, or a certain part of this thread where someone talks you through what they did?
All i know so far is to use a 1-sided razor blade and slowly and calmly slice through the glue material until the IHS is loose enough to pop off. Or is that all there is to it?
Also, what kind of situations is doing this NOT recommended? e.g huge, heavy HS/Fs, or anything like that?
Cheers.
i just did this a few days ago on my new Toledo X2. I went to CVS and bought those double edged razor blades (comes 10 in a pack). I then used the packaging material, taped the razor in place, folded the cardboard over the other side and taped it shut. then i slowly just ran it around the sides, starting with the corners. the biggest advantage to using the cardboard was i could control how deep the razor would enter the lid. in the pic you can see i exposed the razor about 1/2".
the process of cutting took about 10 mins.
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/1...dox2015la7.jpg
Hey man, where you get that Toledo?
*crosspost*
Just finished removing the IHS from my 165 CCBBE 0617FPMW. It's easy to do but omg what was I shaking... :rolleyes:
Some pictures:
http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...331_resize.JPG http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...339_resize.JPG http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...342_resize.JPG
[Click for Highres.]
The shim u see in picture 2, 3 and 4 is one of a X800. Fits perfectly. The shim is glue'ed in each corner with Super Glue.
Some results:
http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...Comments_1.GIF
I'm currently running Orthos with 334 x 9 @ 1.450V + 110%. The temperatures don't go above 53°C
http://www.woutzor.herejezus.com/meu...68V_resize.jpg
[Clickable]
anyone has a naked AM2 CPU?
Last sunday i took the chance to remove the IHS.
Specs: AMD Athlon 64+ 3000+ (2GHz), 2.4GHz OC with Asus k8n / 2GB of memory and X800XT
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/987f98783f...938a5/full.jpg
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/025ff5b5b1...58620/full.jpg
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/2b4dc6d7c7...46f49/full.jpg
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/5e3e9f03ac...7317c/full.jpg
Was'nt so successfull as i thought .. I broke a capacitor but the CPU still works finely, and the cooler woud'nt fit anymore on the Core. I had to lower the bracket by sawing some parts of the bottom from it.
5Degrees difference on Load!
Next thing: Big-ass tec on my A64 Core! :D
Interesting that a little SMD broke off and it still works. I'll post a picture of my A64 3000+ Venice - one of the little SMD got nicked and fell off but somehow the CPU still works.
I'll post a picture as soon as i can find the battery for my camera :p
In the mean time, anyone know what those little SMD things (transistor?) actually does?
here's a few of mine. on my 3500+ i nicked the green wafer part, but it didn't hurt performance. runs at 46c @ 1.68v =/ 2.7 GHz max :( keep in mind that i didn't do this until i got hammered ass drunk and thought it would be a good idea
my opty came off just fine. 1.5v it runs 43c @ 3 ghz
my opty
http://www.turbochargersupply.com/dustin/opteron.JPG
my 3500
http://www.turbochargersupply.com/dustin/3500.JPG
What cooling do you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by buttmud
I don't have any pics of mine but I removed my opty IHS and got a 10 degree C drop in temps :eek:
Now running at 2.8GHz with stock voltage :) I need watercooling to get this thing to its max potential though, if I go much higher I need a small voltage bump which in return causes temp rise and it gets to be too much for my zalman CNPS9500.
using a TT BT that is lapped and all shiny looking :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NoStra
I can run 2.8 GHz on stock voltage too, its nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
Wow, are you running the CPU without a shim or any foamy bits? I've got a TT BT (non-VX, so i can adjust height) sitting here but i don't want to mount it on the naked 3000+ because i'm afraid it would crush or chip the core once i turn the motherboard on its side to mount it in my case? Or hasn't that happened to you yet? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by buttmud
no shims or anything. just straight BT right onto the top of the processor. it'll be fine. if you don't remember, all processors used to come w/o an IHS. i had an old xp 2000 that i gave hell to, and did the same thing w/ an xp 3000. it'll be just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by kimnkk
I have the same setup, my opteron 148 has no IHS and I've got a BT clamped right on :D works like champQuote:
Originally Posted by buttmud
Question:
With the IHS removed and a tower cooler installed (zalman CNPS9500) any extra care needed when moving the computer around, like in a car? I usually have set my computer upright on the floor of the back seat (works the best for me) but I'm wondering if that would now be a bad idea with the IHS removed and all that weight directly on the core bouncing down the road...
Naw, it should work fine. :) Just don't hit any huge potholes or something.
OK cool. I try to avoid those potholes anyway, trying to make my worn suspension last as long as possible :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
if you want to be safe, get some black electrical tape and make it 4 ply. put 1 pad on each corner. it'll help you get that warm fuzzy feeling that your core is safe :)
Just popped the IHS on my X2 4200
All I can say is
DDD
(didn't do :banana::banana::banana::banana:)
Temps nearly identical to previous readings using Core Temp. Which means I allready had really good contact between the core and the IHS/Shin Estu, that was allready there.
Oh well, guess my waterblock just sucks ass. Will replace it at some point.
Will post up pics in a bit here.
I did use a somewhat novel method to cut the sealant. Initially tried an x-acto blade but found out it was too thick. so tore a schick disposeable razor apart and then took one of the blades and broke it in half, mounted it in the x-acto knife handle and damn did it ever go through that sealant fast, 2 passes on each side (first pass for depth gauging) and she popped right off lickity split. Hardly even needed to push hard due to the razor being so damned thin and extremely sharp.
Well first off, just use your basic 1-sided razor blade. That's all thats needed, and it works perfect.
Secondly, people have mixed results. Maybe yours isn't tightened down hard enough.
Back to the mixed results, some people claim no drop, while others claim 10*C drops.
On all three of my Venice CPU's that I popped, I got on average 5*C lower temps.
Allright, here's the pics, rather large so didn't want to put them inline so just clicky.
The victim, Athlon X2 4200+ 236x11 for 2600 MHz 1.525 Vcore (allready previously lapped the IHS with 0 noticeable difference there either)
http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/...cpu_before.jpg
The method
http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/...azor_blade.jpg
Popped
http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/...ed/ihs_off.jpg
Remaining sealant removed and the x-acto blade depth
http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/...r_complete.jpg
Before and after temps
http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/..._and_after.jpg
Note that there is a 3C drop in the main cpu core temp, and a 1C gain in the Tcase temp, both of which can be attributed to just minor fluctuations in the case/room temps.
One other note, as far as holding onto the cpu while cutting. Took the foam pad from the plastic clamshell that the CPU came in and double back foam taped it to a small piece of aluminum, result, no bent pins.
I am hopefull that once the AS5 has had a chance to cure for a couple of weeks I will start to see some lower temps but who knows.
I Also am starting to think that the waterblock included with my Vantec kit just isn't up to the task of removing the heat from the core fast enough, so it will likely get replaced with a good swiftec or danger den at some point.
I hate computers ;)
I didn't feel like runnig down to the 24 hour wallgreens just to pick up a 59 cent razor blade at 6:00 AM this morning :P. So, I made do with what I had on hand, it worked out better than I could have ever hoped for, the blade in the disposeable razor is extremely thin and holding it with the x-acto blade holder worked perfectly. (check out the pics I just posted above).Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
I did compensate for the loss of thickness due to the IHS being removed by adding some double back foam tape between my water block and the clamshell designed mounting bracket that the Vantec Stingray water cooling kit comes with. It's got plently of pressure on the core, probably just a matter of getting a better waterblock that screws down so I could increase the pressure even more. (pic of the wb installed) , another pic showing the mounting bracket
One thing to consider as far as your venice core is concerned, the X2's core is twice the size of a venice core, which I would have thought could actually cause better heat transfer just due to size but I guess the increased voltages and the simple fact of running two cores produces even more heat that needs to be taken away.
Ahh well, it was fun little project to do in the wee hours of the morning here :)
Decided to check out that theroy for certain.Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
Didn't have any way of machining out a proper metal spacer to increase the core tension more, so I did the next best thing, I dug into my MR Yacknfutz (brain on too much coffee) machineries handbook and found a way to do it.
Sata cables and a waterblock, my new best friend. :D
I cut two lengths off of a Sata cable I had laying around, which is actually about .030" thicker than even the origina heat spreader was, and held them in place while I remounted the clamshell bracket.
Lo and behold, I hath seen the light :clap: 13C drop in heavy load temps :woot: , running 2 instances of Stress CPU and the real time HDR lighting demo running.
Oy, now I get to come up with a more permanant way of increasing the core tension, I don't think the sata cables should stay there ;) Pics coming in next post
Haha, told ya man! Glad to hear of your good results, and glad to be of help. :up:
I had forgotten that I actually turned off my radiator fan and main system fan to get the temps up faster, temp drop is more like 15C and that should increase even further once the AS5 has had a decent chance to settle in.Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
Christ, I been kinda ticked off at the temps I was seeing with this water cooling, up untill now, the only real advantage I saw was in the quieter system.
It does make me wonder if increasing the core tension with the heat spreader on there would have made a difference or not, my guess would probably be not.
At any rate, just got through takin some pics, will post em in a few min.
Sounds good, cant wait!
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
Ok hwg, not going to put them inline cause I'll probably get :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:ed at so just clicky ;)
Can see the two green strips of SATA cable i put under each side of the waterblocks hold down mechinisim. (note that there is a third strip along side the block cause the block scoots around on the core a lot more without the surface tenstion area of the heat spreader)
http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/...terblock_1.jpg
Here's the results.
http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/..._tension_2.jpg
As much as 15C drop, oy, maybe I can get this damn thing to 2800 MHz like I allways intended to now ;)
Nice :) Good temps for just a Vantec Stingray kit.
@ 2.81GHz, 1.63v I get about 54*C/56*C in Core Temp, Socket AM2 w/IHS Lapped (Soldered onto Die)
They started soldering the IHS down? I know Intel was doing that, didn't know the new AM2's were.
Yeah some of teh new AM2's are.
Heres my temps after about 30 mins of WCG.
http://upload.nickfire.com//files/1/temps%281%29.jpg
Not bad for IHS still in tact, with two vModded 7600GT's in the loop.
http://www.nickfire.com/public/ihs-lap/ihslap%20022.jpg <thats my IHS
Those temps look damn near identical to mine (crosses fingers for another 200 MHz).
Went the extra mile with that IHS I see lol.
Did quite a bit of reading before I lapped mine and found out that basicly anything over a 600 grit finish was likely just overkill so thats where I stopped at. Edit: heres what mine looked like when it was done. http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/...e/cpu_done.jpg
Oh and as far as your earlier coment about the stingray kit, I researched that damned thing from one end of the internet to the other, and basicly it allways came within 1-2C of the Astek kit that I had been looking at for quite some time and the Astek kit was $100 more.
As I commented earlier in the thread I thought that maybe the waterblock was just junk so I went out and found even more reviews, one inparticular caught my attention. It compared several of the leading waterblocks including the one from the Vantec kit and it came in second place for temps, the only one that beat it was the Swiftec Storm at $85 bucks just for the friggin block!!! ;)
Overall the stingray kit is a decent starter kit, which is kind of what I wanted, it does have some fit and finish problems that were not noted in any of the reviews I read, like the screws that hold the chipset spring arms on the nb, sb and gpu waterblocks all stick up above the surface of the contact area, thus you gotta file off the tops of the screws or run the countersinks deeper.
At any rate, I'm just glad I finally got the damnable temps to where I thought they should be, thanks in part to you ;).
Yeah the Vantec kit doesn't seem to be bad at all. Only thing bad about it I can tell is that the block is clip-down, not bolt-down.
As for the lap job, I also read that over 600 grit doesn't really help, but I wanted a mirror finish bad. BTW, what voltage are you running your CPU at? I wouldn't expect your temps to be too pretty after going as high as ~1.63v like me, sadly. Especially with a single 120MM rad handling CPU, GPU, and Chipset. (May be wrong on that one, having trouble recalling your exact setup.)
Anyway, glad to help! :)
Nick
1.50 Vcore 236x11 for 2600 MHz, ram is 4x512 sticks of corsair 1:1 @ 2.9 Vdimm, Northbridge is at 1.8 volts. 7900 GS 575/730. and a buch of other stuff.
Kicked it up a notch.
1.625 250x11 for 2750 1:1 with ram, backed off the ram timings to 10,4,4,3 for now and will dial it back up later, temps very very similar to yours.
New temps, http://snipershide.us/images/sniper/...bbadabbado.jpg :bday2:
One thing I did just notice when I brought up CPUz, friggin cool and quiet must be enabled cause it keeps dropping back to 1.350 volts, but so far appears to be stable, at least stable enough to run stress cpu for 10 min.
Dunno why its enabled, it shouldnt be, even bios says its disabled, hrrumph, oh well, if its stable, who cares!!! ;)
Edit: ACKKKKK that didnt werk lol, backed off the ram to 4/5 works fine now :) I really need to get pair of 1 gig sticks vs 4x512.
Wow, great improvement there Sniper_Merc :D . Makes me want to pop the IHS off my x2 3800+, but I'm afraid I'll crush the core when mounting it. Any tips to mount it as securely as possible?
Will I be able to mount my Storm water block without any modifications to the mobo? The reason I want to remove the IHS, is that one of the cores peeks 60c during load, while the other one keeps a lot cooler. Not sure if it's due to the IHS though.
I have a razor blade next to me, so it's hard to control :D
Yeah, the storm will mount fine. :)
GO FOR IT!
I just started on it, but gave up halfway. I accidentally cut of a tiny tiny piece of the edge of the green pcb. I just tried it, and it worked just fine though :) . Not sure if I'm going to finish it or not. Maybe I'm scraping the pcb all the way? I won't find out until I've chopped it off :p . I used a extremely thin and flexible two edged razor blade. It seemed to cut through the black rubber thingy pretty easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
But the worst thing was that my hands were shaking like a leaf... Didn't make it any easier lol :D
Arrgh... I've been cutting for at least 45 minutes now, still won't seem to come off :( . It's not soldered, it's a socket 939 x2 3800+ from 2005 week 43. Any good tips?
Go around the edges slowly a few times. Push in fairly deep, and you'll feel the surface mounted SMD's. Pull out a bit and keep going around, being careful not to hit them. If you stop at something hard, its prolly an SMD. Pull out a bit and continue. Once you're finished, grab the IHS and twist fairly hard. The paste can get brittle. Tada.
Oh, I want pix of the finished thing too :p:
Removed today IHS of my sandy 3700+
old 0515SPMW 20c drop
new 0542FPMW 10c drop
This time removed IHS very fast and clean. First one removed with shaking hands and so.
Ok, thanks for the tips. I accidentally chopped of a piece in the edge though :( . I panicked for a second so I threw it into my computer and it appears to still be working just fine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
Ok, job finished :) . I was happy to see that none of the capacitors were damaged. However, it has got a small scratch. I do believe that happened in the start when I didn't quite managed it :p: . If it happened in the beginning, it should still be functional, as I tested it 2 times before I was finished. I'll test the cpu tomorrow, finally my Storm will come to live! (hopefully :p: )
Tha equipment and job finished :woot:
http://show.imagehosting.us/show/177...-1_1774271.jpg
As you can tell, there's a scratch in the corner there :( . But as a said, I think it still works!
http://show.imagehosting.us/show/177...-1_1774260.jpg
I'll test it tomorrow and hopefully it works :) . Btw, to help prevent uneven distribution of pressure on the core, thus not crushing the crushing the core, will it be sufficient enough to just apply a few layers of black electrical tape in each corner?
Yes, but I never did that when I mounted anything on my naked dies. Didn't need to.
If you feel more comfortable doing so though, go right ahead. :)
One thing you want to check after you get it remounted is to make damned certain your heatsink doesn't hit the zif socket at the cam block, I got lucky in the fact that mine didn't but different motherboard manufacturers may use different parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by granulf
Easiest way to tell is just lay your case down and set your sink so it's balanced on just the core and see if you can slide a piece of paper under the sink but over the zif socket cam block. If it hits, you have two choices, mod the heatsink using a milling machine and cut a small ledge in the sink, or put the heat spreader back on. If you put the IHS back on, can likely find some high temp silicone sealant down at home depot to do the job.
As for your previous question about the storm block, I don't have any clue as if it will work after remounting, it's pretty much up to you to figure that one out.
Yeah, I'm aware of that problem. But I don't think my dfi expert is affected. If it is I'll throw the crap out off the window and buy a laptop first thing :)
What do you use to "re-glue" the IHS after lapping it and applying new thermal paste?
I didn't remove the IHS when I lapped it, just held it with the plastic clamshell that the processor came in with the piece of foam double back foam taped inside so it wouldnt keep falling out.Quote:
Originally Posted by andlcs
Point is rather moot now tho, IHS gone :)
If you're feelin real risky people have sanded down their actual cams. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper_Merc
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
LMAO!!! Hadn't heard that one yet, but I suppose that there is probably a good .020 to .030 worth of plastic there before hitting anything that would affect the cam mechinisim.
Just glad I don't have to personally find out ;) got a goot .010 worth of clearance on mine.
Edit: BTW, haven't happend to know how to stop XP from downing my CPU voltage to 1.35 when it's not under load do yah? I been doing some more testing and got into windows and ran some benches at 2.9 GHz but that damn core voltage is i think holding me back cause it keeps ticking down, prime fails right off the bat at 2.9 but 2.75 works fine. Though I may just be hitting the limits of my chip here too.
I allready removed the dual core hotfix, amd driver, deleted the throttle entry in registry and removed the /usepmtimer from boot.ini, but damn thing still drops to 1.35 (hell its supposed to be a 1.4 chip anyway)
my naked Venice and Clawhammer both died since the IHS removed
it died after 3 months naked...:D
the venice runs @ 3ghz daily, n the Claw run 2,95ghz daily :D
I've heard of several cpus die after some time for no apparent reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by wedfighter
NickS: You seem to have removed many. Have any of your cpus died?
Sniper_Merc: If it hasn't already been done; disable cool & quiet.
Already did. No effect. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by granulf
Removed three of my own, and two friends'.Quote:
Originally Posted by granulf
I've sold all mine working cept one which died because I kind of shorted out my motherboard, so that was my fault. My friends' are still alive and kickin' too. :)
Ok, sounds good :) . I just booted up with the cpu now(without IHS), and everything looks good. Dual priming at stock speed, temps 22-23c :D . Yes, I know the sensors are a bit off, but it's still darn good. core 1 is about 30c and core 2 about 24c. Still some difference though, but not too much. Now it's time to start the overclocking :woot:Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
So far the lower temps doesn't seem to help at all. I can't seem to overclock any further :( . Core temp is about 15-20c lower on one core than earlier, the sensor called "CPU" isn't changed much. A bit frustrating, but I'll try to burn in at lower speeds and gradually increase. If it won't go any higher at all, I might have to attack my other x2 3800+ :D
I've decided to reassemble the IHS again tomorrow :( . I obviously chose the wrong cpu. This old x2 3800+ doesn't clock as far as my new x2 3800+. So I thought I would put a dab of thermal paste on the core, put some epoxy along the "rubber line" and then just put the IHS back on. That should work ok, right? It's not really needed with great temperatures, it's going to be run at stock speed. Any advices with the reassembling?
Btw, I doubt I'll remove the IHS from the other cpu, as it gave me absolutely NO gain(overclocking wise). Although the core temp dropped a fair bit :)
you should take the top off of the AM2. i bet its just like taking the top off of the core2 procs. just cut the silicon around the IHS, then torch the top :) off she comes.
Easier said then done. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by buttmud
Sometimes the solder between the core and the IHS melts BEFORE the solder between the core and the CPU PCB, too.
Who have got an AM2? I haven't seen anyone mentioning AM2 :slap:Quote:
Originally Posted by buttmud
I just popped the lid off my other x2 3800+ with great results indeed. Chopped off about 20-25c during load! (core temp)
Btw, the second time everything went perfect. Last time I scratched off a bit of the green pcb material, but this time it was just a clean cut through the rubber :)
Grat'z :)Quote:
Originally Posted by granulf
Ta, now I'm just waiting to receive my Corsair HX620W, so I finally can reveal what this chip is capable of. :banana:Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS