Canda some times takes upoto 2 weeks i think it has some thing to do with customs.
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Canda some times takes upoto 2 weeks i think it has some thing to do with customs.
Would it be ok to mix with "Fesser Aqua Pure" distilled water?
Thanks.
personly i would not mix any thing with fesser as i dont know what they have in there Liquids allso i know fesser stuff blocks systems.
I just noticed you live in darlo. ! were abouts ru. if you want i can give you a bottle of real decent premix and some dyes ... that way youll know it will all work esp since you live close.
I live just off staindrop road,i've had my watercooling bits sat here since January just waiting to get some time to put it all in.
Cool if you need any help and a fee bottle of X1 real premix and dye just gis a shout and ill bring some along and a cam ;). Nice to see a fellow water cooler round these parts were a rare bread arround darlo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid7
How much gunk do you guys reckon a couple of drops of dye will leave in a loop?
I'm hoping these dyes aren't like Feser.
I really don't know why they call that stuff "Aqua Pure", it should be "Acid Pure"...it says right on the bottle that the pH range is 2-3 which is an acid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid7
Dyes dont leave "Gunk" .... dyes stain . and if you put the wrong inhibtor in then you system will "Gunk" up like mad. And if you put to much biocide in you dyes will change colour.Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamaxx
well, i finally got my mix kit yesterday. made one really odd color. didnt think of actually using red, but i do like a good purple. anyways, the mix looks a deep red in some light, purple in others, glows a nice purple under uv. Still, the oddest part to me, under a bright blue led, it glows a bright orange? its a mix of 2 candy red, 1 purple, 2 uv blue and 1 uv pink. mixed into a 500ml water bottle.ill see if i canget some good pics. might be hard though. im really tempted to use this color though.
lol so your having fun making up you own colours.
2 week and i still waiting to my dye:(
Can you mix your UV dye or powder with antifreeze coolant.... I live in japan and they make many different colors of antifreeze but none are UV....
I like your PC.... Were did you get your red LED aquearo...
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwscore
How did you take these pictures that you posted in the thread if you don't have dye? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by kwscore
Thx Malkiewicz
Red Led Aquaero its a Foil
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/57/foil003.jpg
Thanks for the info... And sorry for the off topic question...
I got a sample ;)Now I look forward to another mix dyeQuote:
Originally Posted by A-Grey
whats your order no mate send me a pm.Quote:
Originally Posted by kwscore
If its samples some have been held back. as i am awaiting some test results to come back from the labs about some thing else im working on as well.
the powders can be mixed with anti freeze. You only need a tiny ammount.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
-----
On another note ive spent the last 5 days testing most of the top brades of pre mix from diffrent makers about there conductivaty.
Ill let you know how its all gone once ive completed testing all the diffrent fluids i have. (inc all the big named brands)
Real world test none of the crappy lab tests going on here ;) ....
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/1...watertest3.jpg
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/779/pcwatertest2.jpg
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/7...watertest1.jpg
I know my coolant's conductive, but that really dosen't bother me (I forgot to attach my return line prior to leak testing - Ops Lost a few things)... I usually test my loops for a few hours prior to powering up the rest of my system (I'm kind of impatient)... The coolant I use works great and it keeps all of my components free from bacteria and corrosion (Tried many of the other brands but most of them leave a heavy residue. I'm looking for something that'll add a little spice to my current coolant without creating toxic fumes or loss of corrosion protection...
A slight glow looks good IMO...
http://www.kure.com/line_up/radiator/detail/img/1.gif
What's so important to have non conductive coolant when they all become conductive after some time and dust in your case and on your hardware components also make the coolant become conductive?
Well its very important to be honist if a company says its none conductive then it should be under normal working pratices.Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Grey
Out of all the ones tested only one didnt blow up a PC and that wasnt even mine that was fluid XP. The others Feser, primochil, thermochll, mine all took out the pcs with in seconds. Becuase ive been running these tests and ive seen what happens ill be removing the bit on my bottles that says none conductive because im not going to use bull to sell my stuff. i like honisty.
Over here in the UK if you sell some thing that says none conductive on the bottle and say it does blow some ones pc you in for a hell of a time becuase if you were taken to court you would lose "Big time" for faulse advertising and misleading print. If its none conductive in the bottle and conductive out then it should say that. Id like to see a company get away with it here in the UK in fact id like to see a company get away with it anyware.
The only thing i would suggest using in that would be clear UV blue. Or powder dyes. You could try out a small sample in a glass or vial or test tube and put it away for a couple of weeks and see if it goes well. After all the colours i use are basic colours with no addatives so i see no reason why it wouldnt work how ever i wouldnt like to State that as a fact.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
what are you thoughts on these guys and girls.
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6...353mayhems.jpg
I'd go with number 2!
It has this Eco look to it which is popular these days:up:
Liking 2 and 3 the most :up:
What about #3 with #2's colors?
I like third, 1st and 2nd has doubled M (Mm) in the beginning
#1 seems most professional
#3 is 2nd choice.....
#2 looks commercialy most..
p.s. I want muh colors! *hint *hint
#1 is best by a LOOOOOOONNNNGGGGG way, although it isn't perfect. I'm not sure how well it will translate to B&W since you use gradients to give depth. It could use some AA on the drop. The big M is much too wide. All of the type could use an increase in weight. I would kern the S in Mayhems closer to the D in dye. The relationship of the M and the D feels odd.
The gradient on 2 is awful as is the type. The type isn't nearly rigid enough, it has far too many rounded edges and the thicks and thins don't work well. You are using a display type for text type purposes which is a big no-no. The design will never translate in B&W or even with poor quality as the drop will disappear. You could fix that by adding a white outline to the drop. I do like the green text contrast with the blue though; again not something that will work in B&W.
#3 Doesn't have the drop which I feel adds a lot. I think it would be cool to turn the D into a drop, shouldn't be hard at all and could reduce the overall footprint if you connect it to the M. The kerning is not consistent on the type, the H and E are especially dense compared to the Y and the H. I know Y can be tricky to kern though. Again, too much space between the S and D. The alignment of the type and the bug (MD) is off. The type doesn't line up with the gap in the D by about 1 px. It might also be off because the type isn't quite crisp enough. I don't like the type at all. It is a display type first of all. It really doesn't seem appropriate.
Some general things is that all of these designs have a poor footprint. Lots of wasted space, especially in #1 and #2. Shouldn't it be Mayhem's and not Mayhems? Alright, that is all I can see in my tired state.
The M and D would be considered a bug and the type would be the type treatment. You aren't supposed to read the bug it is mainly just there for illustrative and identification purposes. The M and the D of the bug doesn't make it any harder to read imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by aka_GK
thks guys for your answers. Fast3200 ... 0_o .. i pass that on to the compnay who im paying to do this for me. this is what i sent back to them
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6140/10353mayhems.jpg
I dont like no2 and no 1 needs work and im humming and haring on no 3 ..
Honestly i think the logo in your avatar (and on your current bottles) has a lot more visual identity to it. Otherwise the 3rd might be not too bad but clearly lacks identity (the water drop would be good)...
thks gmat i personly have never liked my own logo hence iw realy dont think it has what id consider the edge to it.
Any way some thing that just came out my test cubord today after a few weeks of work and well this pics dont do it justice but here we go any way
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/9118/011rob.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2724/010wf.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6416/009fh.jpg
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/6595/008d.jpg
This is how far i have got with the colour changing dye.
Sorry about the bad pics but its not easy taking a photo like this and as my hand moves arround the test tube it changes the colour and i want to do it to a certain spot. This is from cold to hand warm black, blue to green to red when its gets hot but since im heating platic i cannot do that to much.
How ever this is the real bad news for you guys. I can Never sell this stuff or give it out in its present form. Becuase its a danger to the envirment and i have to dispose of the peroperly. i.e in a chem container and through chemical waist.
But on the other hand while ive been playing with this stuff i added this to some plastic and well it seems to work quite well. So it would be possable to do this to tubing (with a better effect) than it would to liquid. 0_o how ever i cannot go no further at the moment in deving this as to have tubing made up is way out of my legue atm Cost wise.
any way this is a heated test tube with the same mix in a none heated test tube. you can see the colour change happening.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/5885/026zo.jpg
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/299/018gr.jpg
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/6294/016ba.jpg
First one IMO man :D Looks great!
yay finaly some good pics sort of
as you can see the dye colour is changing .. yes its a dye ive made ... whoot ...
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9364/032sjq.jpg
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/8370/031fr.jpg
That looks good in your hand but would you also see colour change in a loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
The temperature only changes with a few degrees in a loop and that's probably not enough to see changes in colour. :shrug:
Well now ive got the mix corrct wich has taken way to long lol. ill be testing it in a loop over the next few weeks to see how it goes. I dont think this is a viable option for large sales though more of a "can it be done and will it work" experment.
Ive allready been playing and out of the rad its black and out of the GPU / CPU its vairing colours. how ever youll need good liging to see its effect. But again though long term testing is needed to see 1) if it works , 2) if it clogs, 3) can it be improved apon properly ect ect
Yeah, this is my profession which I have been into for about 7 years or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
Would I see a change in color on my TEC loop... its about a 5C change from the cold / warm side....
Its under test atm no point discussing till i see how it acts in a water cooling loop. Sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by malkiewicz
Question
Wich one for pre mix 1) Leeks it needs sorting, 2a) Child safty cap with 2b so you can pour liquid 3) Looks diffrent.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/760/003mr.jpg
I like the child safty cap my self as the pre mix is good looking to kids and to be honist i think a child safty cap should be fitted.
mlwood37, I received my mix kit the other day and just wanted to say thank you for the fast international shipping. I am tearing down my loop for some mods this weekend and will post some pics :)
Your welcome. i do try and send every thing out as fast as possble how ever some times customes likes to tinker and delay the items sent. Weve found this a few times.Quote:
Originally Posted by [HTO]Hunter
2A but with second included long spout would be ideal. Probably not cost effective on a small scale though.
Yeh that what i was planning on . ive orderd 2a / 2b so ill be selling them with the child safey cap and the spout so that it can easly be pourd through small fill holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Proximon
I do think the child safty cap is needed as these colours are attractive to kids and its best to aviod doubt. As for cost yes there is less of a mark up but i aint changing the price. Profit isnt every thing.
Is it possible to have an UV red that doesn't stain or gunk up the blocks?
Thanks.
check you PMs. there is no such thing as a real good UV red. How ever all dyes stain as well sorry to say you cannot avoid this ever.
No dyes block you system its Inhibitor that does and its normaly a bad mix of Dye / Biocide / Inhibitor that cause build up not just a single componant.
Allso has any one noriced fading of the dyes with in there system who is running nickle plated blocks ...
Thanks, does UV clear stain or is it just the coloured dyes that stain?
Today's word is Dye. ;)
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/dye
i will like to have a brigh red , and i know it will fade away with time , but like how long would it take u guys know?.
Or should i just pick some color hose ?
Interesting. I'm running your candy red + biocide in a mostly nickel loop... i'll get back to you if i notice something. How long would it take to start fading ?Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
well we have seen it fade our selfs with UV green when the biocide is to strong and it happens over hours not days. Now i have been shown some pics of a mix with no biocide and a mixture of Purple , candy red and UV pink fading in a nickle plated system with in hours (2 day period). So I need to see if its happening with any one else.
this is a pic of the system
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/P3111649.jpg
So i need to know if this is happning with any one else so that we can eleimate this problem.
Like i say though i have seen this my self with strong biocide (wich we fixed) and it some thing i can repaet over and over again.... but ive not seen it happen in any of my systems that are running these colours on normal biocide.
How do i know which biocide i have (strong or normal) ?
My candy red has not faded yet in about ~1 week. Granted, i have a lot of it since my loop is ~2.5 liters... and i only put like 3 drops of biocide.
If the biocide is mayhems biocide and bought with in the last 2 months then your fine. The new weekend down version has a slight blue to it were as the very strong version has a deeper blue to it.
its normaly about 1 drop per ltr so you running fine mate.
The pure form wich was undillted was
1 ml per 10 Ltrs for shock treatement
0.01 ml per 10 Ltrs for normal tratement (wich was way to strong for water cooling loops)
Now the new stuff is
1ml per 1 Ltr for shock treatement
0.01ml per 1 Ltr wich equates to 1 drop per ltr for normal use.
Shock treatement is if you had a fungi / algi build up and should be used to clean a system as it will kill every thing with in hours were as the normal tratement stops groth before it happens.
Top up once ever 3 to 6 months (other wise 1 drop every 3 to 6 months) to keep it running smoothly. Basicly a 5ml bottle should last 2 to 3 years. there is no need for a 10ml bottle unless you rebuilding you system all the time.
No colour fading here. :up: (I'll post some pictures later and run an other temperature test to see if everything is still OK)Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
What you would like to know is what did he use as a coolant before he was using your dyes. There's a good chance that there was still some coolant in the loop after flushing his watercooling and that there was something in the coolant that doesn't like your dyes.
I don't see sediment in the reservoir or in the tubes so I'm guessing that the dye sticks to his watercooling blocks and/or rad. :shrug:
Is there also a picture before the fading of the dye so we could see the difference?
Nope no sedement or any thing apearing and no blocks getting dyed or clogged.Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Grey
Wich has got me thinking becuase like you and me we both seen it happen to green with the Biocide being way to strong but i never seen it since i fixed that problem. So my only though is along the line a reaction to some thing else that was put in the system to cause this to happen.Quote:
I used the loop once before with deionized water and swiftech's mix. But i took it all apart. BUT i rinsed it all with hot hot "spring" water. Then blew the water out.
So i am thinking if there is a reaction to the small amount of spring water left in the loop
I have had 20 bottles stroed away now comming upto 12 months with the dyes in them and none have faded and allso the systems in our home again none have faded ect ect. So im stupped as to wather it his block , some kind of reaction to prev biocide or some thing else. this is another one of the pics sent to me
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/P3111651.jpg
It looks like evry thing has gone accept the purple and that looks like 1 drop of pruple only that is left.
Been running tests this morning with UV pink and Candy red and a boat load of "raw" biocide and there has been a slight change but nothing on that scale so its totaly got me stumped. I even done a few phone calls and this has got quite a few ppl scratching there heads as it just shouldnt happen with any of the dyes i produce unless like you say its something in the equasion that i dont know about. Now if say a producer of a biocide is using either a bleech based product or some thing else i forgot its name then that will happen ... Makes me wonder what some of these produces are water cooling liquids use in there products.
Anyway it's definitely not the nickel: i have way more nickel in my loop (2 full cover GPU blocks, 1 full cover MB block, all nickel plated) and the candy red is still steady in there.
It's a pitty that I don't have the testing samples. I could've done a test with the HydrX and the dye mixture to see what happens.
I think that the best way to prepare your loop for the dyes is to flush it and run a few days with pure water and than flush it again. Making the dye mixture with the Biocide in a glass of water to test it for a few days before putting it in your loop could be a good idea.
Ill sort you out some stuff once im sorted with the new bottles for the pre mix as im sort of spending alot of time trying to get the bottles and stickers and logos atm lol. Its a very fine balance between cost and sales atm and with out one the other ain happning hehe.Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Grey
Well it didn't fade as fast as mlwood might have said here. I started to see changes after 1 week. Now this is after a little more then 2 weeks. What i used before was deionized water and the mixture swiftech has. Mix is suppose to be one bottle to every 500mm. But my mix was weaker. Used more water. The first time i didn't run with the nickel block. Then i took everything apart and rinsed it with hot water from the tap. I'm thinking there night be something there that could make a reaction. But as someone said, there could be leftovers from the other coolent. But it was flushed very well. All parts.
But i'm going to make 3 mixes with some drops from the tap, just distilled, and one i'll put in my other nickel block. Never used. Here is a before pic. It was uv pink, blue 2, candy red and purple all together..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/P2281623.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/P2281622.jpg
Sorry for double post. But here are two mixes i put together. One just distilled water an dyes, one leftover water from the tap. 1 drop candy red, 1 drop blue 2, one drop purple and 2 drops uv pink. So now we will wait and see.
I'll get some in the block as well today i hope, with the ek compression fittings and tygon tubing. It's deep purple, but camera wants to show the blue inn it. My skills are just awful..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g/P3121664.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g/P3121658.jpg
keep us informed on its pregress ive miced up some more and placed it in the airing cubord with dionased water and 1 drop of biocide ill see happens.
@M40TURBO
If you want to flush your loop and don't want to waste distilled water why don't you use water from a bottle and not water from the tap?
Here's the result of my third test to see if the temperature is still the same and I also add two pictures to see if there's lost in colour and UV activity.
DeMi Water + 2% Anchor Water Wetting Agent + 30 drops dye with a room temperature of 18° Celsius.
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...ingAgent-3.jpg
Picture in daylight to view the colour.
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...tDaylight1.jpg
Picture in darkness with UV light to view the UV activity.
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...stUVLight1.jpg
The temperature is still the same and I don't see any change in colour or UV activity. My coolant mixture seems to be doing fine. :up:
EDIT:
I've been working on my overclock profile and I've found that changing Ai Clock Twister in the BIOS from Moderate to lighter doesn't make any difference in performance for FSB 450MHz and DDR 1199MHz but it let's me run my Q9650 at 4.5GHz with less voltage so I've got less heat and made a new screenshot as a reference for the core temperatures. I could knock off 3° Celsius from the core temperature under full load with LinX and that's a good reason to use these BIOS settings for my 24/7 overclock.
All further tests will be done with these overclock settings.
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...ingAgent-4.jpg
Whoops my fault i must have read it wrong. No its not you camra skills takeing pics of dye. It isnt easy in any way as diffrent light effects the differnt dye so ever one will allways get diffrent photos taken. Trustr ive taken pics of the same dye over and over again using diffrent levels and you never get the same pic twice.Quote:
Originally Posted by M40TURBO
How ever more to the point leep us informed on this problem and we hopefully can work togther to sort it out as im sure you wont be the only one who come across this problem. Id rather know now than later and try to resolve the issue now then later on down the line. If you run out of dye dont worry ill send you some more out so that your not out of pocket nither :)
Mick
What I'm reading here a lot on XS is to use coloured tubing. Coloured tubing FTW!!!
I don't think so. Have a look at my powercables from my OCZ EVOStream PSU. They are supposed to be blue in daylight. All the blue colour is almost gone. Only the parts that aren't directly exposed to UV and sunlight are still blue. This happened within a year so this is going to happen with coloured tubing as well and than you can replace them or use dye again. They still show up blue with UV light but not that dark blue anymore.
Also if something goes wrong with your coolant you're going to notice this very quick with clear tubing and with coloured tubing it might be already to late and you can take everything apart and start cleaning your watercooling parts.
With dyes if something goes wrong don't wait to long to drain and flush it and you're going to be fine.
a few small updates as such
1) New bottles on there way (should be here monday)
2) New telephone number
3) www.mayhemsdye.com and www.mayhemsdye.co.uk now active
4) VAT registraction now complete details on contacts page.
5) Logo on its second stage
6) Looking into out sorce new lables.
7) Undicieded if i use Black bottle or not for the pre mix to keep the UV aspect of the dyes used in them strong.
Child safty caps added to the pre mix range with fill spouts. No price hike.
Mayhems dyes have now sold over 1000 dyes Whoot. (happend last night).
New testing kits arrive next week. I even have a fancy microscope and various bits and bobs for contiual improvements of the dyes and liquids. All so if this go as planned im looking into a pure water system (II) to perchase. Means even better products produced. and vrious other things happing as well.
Still no resellers in the UK except for me ... maybe i havent got deep enough pockets to bribe them lol.
new logos .. tbh im not impressed. think ill go back to no 3 of the first sheet ..
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/8...53mayhems1.jpg
The 3rd one has almost an idea going on. But not very impressive indeed... still lacking that real logo that would set you apart. Think about EK or Danger Den who have very strong visual identity...
Well, more ideas can never hurt right? Well, here's a simple M$ paint idea for a logo.
http://dreddy71.webs.com/Mayhems%20dye.bmp
I just like the idea of smaller logos myself...
well the idear is that the MD can be seprated off from the wording to create the logo and the wording is for letter heads, web sites ect ect and the logo (MD) is for stickers, products labels, etching ect ect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreddy71
Yeah i get that, but look at for example EK or danger den logos, they did a special graphics for the lettering, which can also be used for the full name (in the case of danger den). What i'm saying is the current iterations you showed have just regular fonts, with a slight colour gradient.. Apart from the 3rd one in last batch (with the stylized drop) which *just starts* to look like something original. The idea is to associate a simple yet original visual in the mind of customers to your brand - which standard fonts wont achieve. I know it's not easy at all :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
edit: also you could think of a separate drawing for the logo, ala Lian Li (their little circle thing), Silverstone, Swiftech (the star), etc.
finally i got my Full mix kit:D
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2795/...c8e54553_o.jpg
more pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kwscore/
Cool but was the UV clear Blue that empty when it arrived. Im surprised as it doesn't look 5 ml to me. Im going to be changing the labels soon as well once the logo is complete.Quote:
Originally Posted by kwscore
a Little Update. This is the pre mix.
http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/16x/007.jpg
Main features of the bottles are a child safety cap, filling spout.
The child safety cap on all products like this is a must. Kids love coloured fluids and the safety cap is more important than a tamper evident cap. (yup it costs more but i don't care my kids all ways come first).....
From left to right we have
UV green, UV clear Blue, Clear, UV Purple, UV Pink, UV Blue, UV yellow / green
Still working on the labels ect ect. but any thoughts are welcome.
They will all be the same price (no extra for dyed liquid). And all of them work with mayhems dyes if you fancy enhancing the liquid.
After a boat load of tests and 25 pcs blown up, testing all the market leading brands of so called none conductive fluid ive decided that i will defo not be advertising the fact that this is no conductive as even the best brand out there blew up a PC with real life tests. Seemingly even giving the pcs a good scrub down and just leaving them in the open air for 1/2 hour was to much for any liquid.
The price point im aiming for is £5 a bottle Not inc p&p even with all these extras.
any thoughts guys ....
Looks good.
there are a few things ive noticed when buying these from shop and the way bottles are posted. They all ways seem to come with no packing at all.
So again ive been working on this and this is the way all mayhem Pre mix will be sold.
This is the packing only still have to work on stickers :).
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/5549/018fx.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/316/017mg.jpg
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/307/015p.jpg
Looks secure to me!
Nice work you have been doing with this! No XS Discount code anymore?
Yup the XS discount code should now work is XS2010Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap
10% discount. If you live in the UK it will all so apply to the pre mix to :).
I cannot ship the premix aboard though its just costs to much and is not worth it atm. Unless a reseller has interest in it.
Thanks, I tried to use it last week and it said something like too many people used it already or something along those lines, I think that same code.
Yeh i limited the code to 250 uses and it was used up. I didnt realise that id limited the code so now it works properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap
Liking my UV clear so far ;) Oh, and it arrived here in NW Washington state very speedily. I would say about 6 days shipping time.
Thats good to know. How ever it does depend in other conductions as ive seen it take upto 14 days for a delivery some times. But that's all out of my hands. I Do try to send every thing as fast as possible but as cheap as possible as well to keep the price low.Quote:
Originally Posted by Proximon
i whait to my dyes 5 days I think not so bad
Are the last pictures by kwscore under any special lighting or is it just the way they will look in a normal loop without UV?
I do not use any special lighting,in Masterkleer tubing looks like that
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/3043/bluetest.jpg
New logos come back im liking No2 . in fact i like all 3 :)
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/6...353mayhems.jpg
Number 2 is the best looking one by far yet.
I think 2 or 3, undecided.
Why not incorporate the logo you are using now?
You were talking about the logo standing on it's own...
What I see in number 2 is a doctor with his hands joined over his head.
Number 3 looks like some electronics diagram.
Number one looks like a good logo for an architecture firm, or a boat yard.
Take the drop in number two and make it solid but chromatic maybe?
3 looks Awesome i like it
I also like number 3 but you could remove the circles from the M and D and make the M and D look like tubing filled with dye mix.
I asked for it max 2 colours so that it could be reproduced in Black and white easily. And will look good still. Hence 2 colours only.Quote:
Take the drop in number two and make it solid but chromatic maybe?
Now you say that after 2 looks i can see it now haha.Quote:
What I see in number 2 is a doctor with his hands joined over his head.
Need to keep it simple as possible . I asked for some thing Like a Nike swish and some thing that you can spot only looking at it once and they have stuck to that concept and tbh im quite happy with both 2 and 3.Quote:
I also like number 3 but you could remove the circles from the M and D and make the M and D look like tubing filled with dye mix.
Cos i dont like my own Logo i think it sucks.Quote:
Why not incorporate the logo you are using now?
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Im going for No 2 but with a few small changes and ill show the logo once its all finalized. thank you guys for you thoughts.
To company / re viwers who would like samples.
Any one out of the UK will from now on need to at least pay post and packing on Dyes or bottles if they wish a sample. I am not going to pay £18.00 to send a 1Tr bottle out of the EU.
All so webs sites need to have a Min of 500 Users and if you don't have anywhere near that then please don't bother sending me requests for samples as to many have gone out and i have ppl who already post results on here.
If you are running a project then i need to see some of you work and all so what web sites you are posting on. I have given way to much away all ready and the cost is not cheap when you consider all the factors involved in product development and producing these.
Great colors! can you make a white dye too ?
Really? I thought it was quite unique and cool actually, but that's just me I suppose. Kinda why I thought # 3 was looking OK, it had similar design to the logo you are using now.Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
Right, this would be great! I'd love some white, to mix with UV Blue!Quote:
Originally Posted by hausner
Perfectly understandable. I'm already amazed that you even sent out freebies in the first place. Great promotion though :). When I'm going to start my project I guess I'll just pay for the dye ^^.Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
i done a White liquid all ready. Its been under test a while. How ever there has all so been problems with it as it leaves a residue on the tubing and i suspect over time may block a system. All so it needs to be in a working system all the time as its settles a little and if the pump isn't pumping you'll see partials in the bottom of you res.
You cannot do a white dye as there is no such natural thing how ever you can do a white mix of other products to create a white pre mix.
What colors would mix to make the white/aquamarine UV Blue shown somewhere in this thread?
i think it was mixed with green and blue but not to sureQuote:
Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap
Milk and UV Blue. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap
Ya, see, not sure.
Wish white was possible, then we would not waste mixing colors and end up never getting the color we want which IS Milk + UV Blue.
Keep working on white, that would be awesome!