Chiller/ac unit

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Originally posted by zakelwe
[B]The freezer is not waterproof so it will have to be a container, metal ideally, I will keep my eyes peeled.

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Oh well that kind of throws a monkey wrench in the plan.Have you considered patching it?I am remembering someone who used a very large chest freezer and filled it completely full of antifreeze and it leaked as well, but he patched it.I dont think he had any problems after that.

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Nice idea to go by the evap pipes , I'd be a bit concerned I might break one.. I'm a bit hamfisted and maybe couldn't get duct tape on fast enough before all the gas escaped :)

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Just tie strapping the pipes to the evap pipes was a cheap solution that probably wouldnt have worked well with a heatload.I was just messing around with it, there are better solutions.And if the evap pipes are anything like the pipes in this freezer, they are made out of very strong metal(seemed like steel actually) and breaking it would be hard, and if you did thats all she wrote.The ideal solution would be getting the evaporator coils bent into your reservoir to cool the solution directly.But that may be harder than it sounds.

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll definitely try both of those at a later date once I got it all up and running "standard" on an actual chip ( my AMD64 is out for the count at the moment ) . I don't want to mess it up by tweaking before I actually get some use out of it, that would be a shame ! Both ideas seem within my capabilities though, so that is good news.

I was thinking about my plastic container whilst at work and noticed my paper bin sitting there, which is metal. That would definitely be an improvement, but of course it is still round, really I need a square bin so two sides can touch the sides of the freezer. Rather than 24 hours I need to have 8 hours between start up and the liquid getting to coldest. This will let me bench morning and evening.

I have been looking at thermometers and to be honest Fluke etc are out of my price range for what I need it for , I saw this one

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/catalog/vi...prodId=7105769


Any thoughts ? It goes down to -50C ( though at reduced accuracy ) which will be ample for my setup. I assume it is a thermister type , any disadvantages to that over a thermocouple ( thermocouples seem more expensive!)

Regards

Andy

Well I pretty much finished this post, and forgot I was stress testing this piece and of course it crashed. Well starting over. I want to make a chiller of course. First of all I have NOTHING at all to begin with (except the puter :p: ). Now for the water cooling system itself I was going to go all from one place, dangerden. I want to get RBX block chipset block and Maze 4 block for GPU . All this would be copper, not loctite. For a resorvoir, was thinking like something Jamal has, square and not to big. And of course Tygon tubing and lotsa insulation.
This is the AC http://www.maytagair.com/units/m3x05f2a.asp . Cost 98 bucks at homedepot. Would this do the trick? Thanks :toast:

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Originally posted by Peen
Well I pretty much finished this post, and forgot I was stress testing this piece and of course it crashed. Well starting over. I want to make a chiller of course. First of all I have NOTHING at all to begin with (except the puter :p: ). Now for the water cooling system itself I was going to go all from one place, dangerden. I want to get RBX block chipset block and Maze 4 block for GPU . All this would be copper, not loctite. For a resorvoir, was thinking like something Jamal has, square and not to big. And of course Tygon tubing and lotsa insulation.
This is the AC http://www.maytagair.com/units/m3x05f2a.asp . Cost 98 bucks at homedepot. Would this do the trick? Thanks :toast:

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it would probably do fine , the thing you can't tell is how the copper lines are running inside . They need to be long enough to get the evap into a res . Before buying one I would ask friend or family if they had an old unit laying around for cheap, or free. I have an old working unit you can have if you want it but its kinda a pig, its big, loud and draws 11 amps. if you can handle this its yours for haulin it off.:D

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Originally posted by jamaljaco
it would probably do fine , the thing you can't tell is how the copper lines are running inside . They need to be long enough to get the evap into a res . Before buying one I would ask friend or family if they had an old unit laying around for cheap, or free. I have an old working unit you can have if you want it but its kinda a pig, its big, loud and draws 11 amps. if you can handle this its yours for haulin it off.:D

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thanks man, yhpm :D btw I still have to buy the other stuff, but gotta wait for my dirtbike to sell so i can get the money :toast: I think ill find another one first though thats somewhat compact. if not I know where I can find one :D

You guys would be just amazed at what you can do with a tubing bender. :D

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Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
You guys would be just amazed at what you can do with a tubing bender. :D

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Gary , glad you found us over here ! We all lost and :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:.:D I pinched my finger with a tube bender ,lol

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I pinched my finger with a tube bender ,lol

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Don't do that. It hurts.

Ya gotta teach these kids everything... LOL

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Originally posted by jamaljaco
it would probably do fine , the thing you can't tell is how the copper lines are running inside . They need to be long enough to get the evap into a res . Before buying one I would ask friend or family if they had an old unit laying around for cheap, or free. I have an old working unit you can have if you want it but its kinda a pig, its big, loud and draws 11 amps. if you can handle this its yours for haulin it off.:D

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Hey, I gotta couple questions about the AC unit. Whats the typical amperage it takes for one of these? you say that one you have takes 11 so im guessin a newer one would be alot lower? Loud doesnt really bother me, I sleep with 3 vantec tornados in my room lol :hehe: Is there a water block for the cpu , nb , gpu that anyone would recommend? and maybe also a pump thats recommended?
Thanks :toast:

ANY AUSSIE MEMBERS WANNA FIND ME AN AC UNIT!!!

Hey, I just saw a 24,000 BTU unit on ebay for 100 bucks and looks new, and its a window unit. Would that cool more then a 6000? or does that just do something else? I was thinking that it just cools down faster, but not really any colder?

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Originally posted by Peen
Hey, I just saw a 24,000 BTU unit on ebay for 100 bucks and looks new, and its a window unit. Would that cool more then a 6000? or does that just do something else? I was thinking that it just cools down faster, but not really any colder?

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I think you would be correct, it has greater capacity for cooling, but cools no colder.

Regards

Andy

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Originally posted by Peen
Hey, I just saw a 24,000 BTU unit on ebay for 100 bucks and looks new, and its a window unit. Would that cool more then a 6000? or does that just do something else? I was thinking that it just cools down faster, but not really any colder?

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I got a 10k BTU unit free, and it came with a 1 HP compressor. I think thats really too big for a computer setup (750w running 24/7 in a closed room isn't too much fun for your room temp nor your electric bill). A 24k unit would probably have a 2+ hp unit (~1.5 kilowatts).

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Originally posted by Peen
Hey, I just saw a 24,000 BTU unit on ebay for 100 bucks and looks new, and its a window unit. Would that cool more then a 6000? or does that just do something else? I was thinking that it just cools down faster, but not really any colder?

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Being 24000btu its more then likely 220v, check the amp draw.
Basicly a 110v & 220v motor of the same hp the 220v will draw 1/2 the amps. It probablely would'nt get any colder but recovery
would be alot faster. :cool:

A 6000 BTU compressor is 1/2 HP. That's more than enough for everything on your computer. If you want fast pulldown, put a TXV on it. The smallest TXV's are too big for a CPU direct die, but are just right for a chiller that is cooling everything in the computer. These A/C chillers rock. We haven't shown what these things are capable of doing yet. :D

My AC has to have the worst design ever... Super small suction line and all :(

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Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
A 6000 BTU compressor is 1/2 HP. That's more than enough for everything on your computer. If you want fast pulldown, put a TXV on it. The smallest TXV's are too big for a CPU direct die, but are just right for a chiller that is cooling everything in the computer. These A/C chillers rock. We haven't shown what these things are capable of doing yet. :D

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Jamal is seriously considering fine tuning the refigerant. Im going to join the chiller game also and im copying him :hehe:

I'm gona make my own and keep my ears longer than you guys :lol:

Direct die systems are more popular than chillers, because we haven't seen what a real chiller can do, yet. You lose a few degrees in the extra layer of heat exchange, but you gain a lot of advantages.

Multiple blocks, no problem. Upgrade blocks, hoses, pumps, no problem. Add more blocks, no problem. De-humidify and cool the case, no problem. Disconnect it, move it, and reconnect it, no problem.

And then there are cascade and autocascade chillers, not to mention full submersion.

Chillers rock. :D

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Chillers rock. :D

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Yep because you dont have to you dont have to worry about an evap block :p:

What do you do for a pump bellow -40C tho?

There are such pumps, expensive though.

Im grabing an ac unit probally next weekend and getting mine done FOR SURE!

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Originally posted by afireinside
I'm gona make my own and keep my ears longer than you guys :lol:

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I just found a 5200 btu unit for peen this weekend 50 bucks at a pawnshop near new. This thing is great ,its less loud than high end fan cooling . last time I buy an ac for someone else, lol.:D

Hah peen is a luckey man :D Well I want to do this as a learning expirence to. I got my compressor so when that gets here I'll finalise my plans and order the rest up from rparts :D

I found some smallish aircon at some shop on sale for 79 bucks, might grab it but gots to check it out first :D

Cool :D I scored a 1/3 HP 5510 BUT R12 Copland comp off ebay for around 70 shipped earlier :banana:

You bastard, good find.

oooh, i happen to have that same compressor (i believe) in my 6000BTU a/c unit. now i just gotta get my parents permission to rip that thing apart. lol

when i said that compressor i meant the LG one from the very beginning of this thread

Whats this peircing valve or something everyones been talking about?

A peircing valve is a valve you can add to a line without cutting and rebrasing that gives you a threaded connection to add or remove frion.;)

Okay tommorow im getting an ac unti from fats for free so grats to him for his kidness. Will do alot of :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: on sunday aus time so thats when pics arrive.

Wish me luck. Might ask a few questions during the days progress too...

Decided to ditch me old project :)

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Originally posted by vlad
If you go to homedepot look for this instead of auto antifreeze. its way better. and cheaper too!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...?postid=276439

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Where can I find Hercules Cryo-tek? I dropped by Home Depot and Lowes, and they don't seem to carry it. Someone please help! I'm in the Southern California area by the way.

Home depot does have it. that's where i get it, Look in the heating area near the display of boilers & furneses.Its easy to miss & sometimes theyre out. ask someone. Its around $9/gall. ;)

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Originally posted by vlad
Home depot does have it. that's where i get it, Look in the heating area near the display of boilers & furneses.Its easy to miss & sometimes theyre out. ask someone. Its around $9/gall. ;)

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Alright, I'll go back and look. I hate the people that work there -- I swear they don't know what they have and don't have. I'm usually better off looking for it myself!

Time for another person to jump into this madness of a thread. I have tossed around pelt/direct die/chiller for a couple weeks reading every bit I could on each subject. And so here I am.

Had a 6,000 btu A/C sitting on my back porch for almost 2 years. I tore into it to get to the goodies and left a small mess.
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/mess.jpg


Here is the unit:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/unit.jpg


The numbers:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/label.jpg


Compressor:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/compressor.jpg


Evap:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/width.jpg
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/height.jpg


Running to make sure it works: (evap fan still attached)
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/accum.jpg
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/evap.jpg


this is it for now (same old boring stuff). going to go grab some tools and toys. want to have the resevoir running by the afternoon.

round 1 of supply fetching:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/supplies.jpg


still have to go find myself a fitting cooler

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Originally posted by acumo
Alright, I'll go back and look. I hate the people that work there -- I swear they don't know what they have and don't have. I'm usually better off looking for it myself!

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You got that right. Most of dont know their as*es from their elbows. ;)

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Originally posted by Calab
Time for another person to jump into this madness of a thread. I have tossed around pelt/direct die/chiller for a couple weeks reading every bit I could on each subject. And so here I am.

Had a 6,000 btu A/C sitting on my back porch for almost 2 years. I tore into it to get to the goodies and left a small mess.

The numbers:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/label.jpg




this is it for now (same old boring stuff). going to go grab some tools and toys. want to have the resevoir running by the afternoon.

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Thats the same size i used here and it got me down to -43c. I used a 5gal egloo. Good luck it should be a good one.:toast:

thanks vlad, now I have something for comparison;) I'll be sticking mine in the same as pimpsho and mrnuke, it's a 3.25gal cooler. speaking of which.....

the cooler in all it's glory:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/cooler.jpg

todays excursion:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/receipts.jpg

i had a pipe bender on my shopping list, neither home depot or menard's carried them. instead of looking harder, i figured i could just bend it by hand. well, needless to say, i kinked it. there is 1 kink just before entering the evap (not a bad one) and one in the middle of the copper (this one doesn't look so good). what should i do? should i reinforce it somehow, or should i just be aware and more careful, and just try to finish getting the evap into the cooler, and the cooler in it's resting place?

i actually planned on buying a new ac unit to do this, and at the last minute i remembered this 6100 btu out on my back porch. if i end up having to purchase a new unit, it's not a big loss, i budgeted for it anyways, would be a bonus though if i didn't have to wait till monday to get a new unit.

kink entering evap:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/evap_kink.jpg
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/po...nk_closeup.jpg


kink in middle of line:
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/kink.jpg
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/kink_closeup.jpg

after waiting a while, i slowly gained bravery, so i took a second shot at it....


http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/bad_kink_1.jpg
http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/bad_kink_2.jpg


looks like i'll be getting that new ac unit after all. going to widen my search for a 1/2 pipe bender.

also, is there any easy way to tackle those U loops with a bender? that's the only area that gave me trouble. trying to straighten 3 U loops is what caused the kinks.

the kink shown above is a result of the vap being turned clockwise about 60ish dergrees, then putting just a tad to much down pressure when it was in the cooler. it was unavoidable in the way i tackled the process.

Looks like a mad cooler if you can fix them kinks up so mysterious way.

have you cranked her on yet to see how she is doing? looking good bro!

i'm sure it would be workable if i had the skill level. but this was kind of a sacrificial unit anyways, not to down about losing the unit. the only thing i'm down about is being at a stand still on this project :brick:

btw, i found vice grips and some of the padding i ripped out from the inside to suite really well in preventing further kinking in the middle of the line. to bad i didn't have a second et of grips, might have gotten away with it then.

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Originally posted by Pimpsho
have you cranked her on yet to see how she is doing? looking good bro!

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i guess i'll go crank her up, i'd imagine i'm going to impede performance with the kink being right there tho, plus it's still not completely seated in the cooler, will take some more finagling, but at this point i have nothing to loose.

and i'm left with this

http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/temp_evap.jpg


http://www.speakeasy.org/~obrienp/post/temp_comp.jpg

thats same as mine bro looks like your ac unit is "A" okaay! and i also have the same thermomitor as you....mickey mouse said that these thermomitors start trippin out at about -25c....

Tweaking time :)

Those kinks can be straightened out with a flaring block if not too severe.

pimpsho, good to hear i just over reacted, but today i couldn't even get the compressor to kick on. i played around with it for a bit and even gave it a kick out of frustration, but no luck. i am leaning towards picking up a new unit tommorrow. maybe build a insulated plexi glass reservoir and insulate it to no end so i can fit it all back in the original housing and mount it in the window. the thermometers lcd has it's quarks now since taking that -26 reading.

gary, i've used a flaring block a few times on a pipes end before installing them in a wall and running electrical wires thru them. i've never used it in other situations. is there a different tool for a setup like this? seems like it would difficult to get a flare tool in there with the tight radius bend.

Okay, just some questions for clarification.

I see people using methanol-based antifreeze with their chillers, correct? How much of that should one use for a solution with distilled water?

One more question. If the waterblocks are lucite-topped, does it run the risk of the top cracking? Or should it be fine?

Thanks for the responses. This is one kick-ass thread!

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gary, i've used a flaring block a few times on a pipes end before installing them in a wall and running electrical wires thru them. i've never used it in other situations. is there a different tool for a setup like this? seems like it would difficult to get a flare tool in there with the tight radius bend.

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There is no easy way. The easy way is to not kink it to begin with.

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Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
There is no easy way. The easy way is to not kink it to begin with.

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lol amen to that gary!! thats what happened to me...you warned me and said it would be worth gettin some pipe benders...but i got carried away and broke mine!:rolleyes:

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Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
There is no easy way. The easy way is to not kink it to begin with.

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then why suggest it?

Because it works, but it ain't easy.

how much increasing in electric bill do you expect when you are running a phase change system 24/7? let say 1/2HP

My chillers run 2.5-3.0amps @115V/60Hz. They are 1/2HP.

Hi I've been reading this forum and you all have answered many of my questions I had about cooling with an A/C unit. I'm plaining on building one soon just gathering parts to use.

The plan is to use and old table top pop machine's system for cooling and to have the mother board submerged in 3M's HFE-7100 that way the chipset and memory can be clocked up too.
And I had plained to put it in a portable cart for easy moving!
(I got and old EKG machine out of the trash at the hospital that should hold every thing and be quieter, the side panels are insulated). I'll post some pics when I get my cam back, soon.

So hows the chiller coming Kommando :D

I got a tad side tracked from my project, I even thought of using my aircon unit as *gasp* an aircon unit. Thank god reason prevailed.


I've been busy upgrading my waterblocks, pumps, tubing ect. I'm planning to chill everything, cpu, nb, gpu. All Silverprop blocks.

I've bought a big ass chest type thingy to put the evap in, just got to cut it up and insulate it :)

I'll post some piccys when I get something worthwhile done :D

26,000 views on this thread... wow!

It seems i've been...cursed...with the same setup Pimpsho has as far as the tubes. Picked up a $75 5000BTU Goldstar from Lowes over the weekend and just took a peak inside.

I'm still gathering necessary supplies-ie tube bender, etc but so far it seems I'll be taking a similar approach as Pimpsho for bending the tubing.

One thing I'm noticing though is what appears to be the temp probe on the evap. It appears to be just a copper attached by a clip with a silver-coated tip? I wonder if that will cause problems since most people have a wired probe and cuts/splices to keep the compressor running?

Looks like this will be a time consuming project to say the least :toast:

(I already have some pics but saving posting any until I actually begin work...today was just a scouting mission to see how easy it would be to position the tubes)

its the thermostat, where the power goes into it just disconnect the two wires and join them together, this will disable it and it will run untill you turn it off

:with: if you dont understand ill see if I can post a pic

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Originally posted by nuclear
It seems i've been...cursed...with the same setup Pimpsho has as far as the tubes. Picked up a $75 5000BTU Goldstar from Lowes over the weekend and just took a peak inside.

I'm still gathering necessary supplies-ie tube bender, etc but so far it seems I'll be taking a similar approach as Pimpsho for bending the tubing.

One thing I'm noticing though is what appears to be the temp probe on the evap. It appears to be just a copper attached by a clip with a silver-coated tip? I wonder if that will cause problems since most people have a wired probe and cuts/splices to keep the compressor running?

Looks like this will be a time consuming project to say the least :toast:

(I already have some pics but saving posting any until I actually begin work...today was just a scouting mission to see how easy it would be to position the tubes)

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I wouldn't recommend taking the same approach as pimpsho for obvious reasons. I would try to wrap the suction line around the back of the evap, so that both the evap and the lower portion of the suction line fits inside the cooler.

btw if i wanted to regass with r507 (let say there wasnt a problem with the oil incompatibility) would I have to change the cap tube?

All this talk about A/C and cool cpu's has given me the BUG!

I scrounged around in the garage and happened to find an old Kenmore 6000 btu a/c unit. The evaporator and condensor are somewhat larger than many of the ones you guys are using, but what the hey. I turned it on and got pretty cold air coming out so I started dissasembling it today.

Oops, pic a little on the large side. Next Pic -

DOH! Like a total noob I post the same pic twice in full theatre size.

This is the best thread ever on Ac/chiller ever, I have so many Ideas In my head now but Im going to do mine a little different but to post pictures on what I have now. 1 Koolance Cpu cooler 200w 2 Swiftech Mcw40 graphics card cooler and a Dolphin pond/tank master 4.5 gpm..One question here my cpu water block has yellow plastic on the top is that going to be a problem for the low temps like would it break...Next I want to build a small box clear plastic or uv over my cooling blocks and vacume tight them for condensation control I think this is going to look nice better than insulation its to bulky and I would like to see my cooling system not cover it up...I need help finding some sites that sell cheap plastic sheets or uv maybe 3/8 thick or 3/16 I want them to be strong under pressure because Im going to vacume pressure if I can for insulation if it works this will be sweet....

Hey Gary Lloyd where you at I would like your help on this little mod I got going on here. Just seeing where u at .

paragraphs are you friend:)

The epoxy you'll have to use on the box. May or may not work under the pressures of a vacuum. Only one way to find out tho.

Do you know what the Injected molded top is made of? PVC, Vinyl, etc..
And what tempature are you going to be running at?
With those two bits of info.. its easy to look up.

The plastic is acrylic see through 1/4 inch thick good stuff 18'' by 24'' plenty enough to do what I need and maybe a window for the side of the computer...one smaller piece for my video card 8'' by 10'' !/8 inch thick plenty enough. I bought some high strength epoxy adhesive it has a temp of -40c to 80c this is the lowest numbers I could find, hope it holds.. And a tube of silicone 2 100% sealent clear for a second sealent...all this for 26.17 not bad. A total so far 129.74 exspensive but not so bad for three cooling blocks and a pump and everytheng else... Ill post picture when boxes are done ...

well first of all bro..under any pressure or flexing that epoxy seal is going to bust..what you need is some platic weld..if you check my thread under chilled liquied - juicys chiller, i have a picture of it undertheir...now pressure..well epoxy should be good..the weakest stuff is rated 1000psi..you just need the seal to hold up..the plastic weld fuses the plastic..to be honest if theirs any amount of pressure beyond 10psi that silicone is pointless..id just take it off...ugly...and now i just saw your post..lol the orig one..all youll need is silicone..shouldnt be pressure. And if anything the temps in that box will be higher then anywhere else cuz their wont be any fresh circulating air.:D

I dont think Im going to put that much of a vacume on it, just a little or maybe none at all because I cant find anything to use to suck the air out..But when I do its on, Im just going to put a little vacume on it just to get the air inside of the box out but in reality it will work both ways non vacume or vacume I just want to get the air out...
I found this very high strengh epoxy one is 1000 lbs per sq in and the other is 2500 lbs per sq in so that is plenty of holding power.. And Im going to run cross sections for support like side to side will make this very stable, no flexing allowed on this project. I havent cut any plastic today but I got it all laid out and ready to cut wendsday Ill post pictures later...

Hey juicy629 seen your cooler nice but Im doing something different Im building small boxes around my cooling blocks on the mother board for condensation control but I did get an Idea from your plastic cooler box it was nice... one question here Im having some trouble with the epoxy did u have problems too ? did u put the glue mainly on insides and outsides like a weld or put glue one piece and stuck the other to it and put a huge bead all around the sides ?

bro i know what yer doing...ive been reading you posts...first...if you get the right stuff..just putting it on the flat edge and putting the peice together will suffice...i would recommend some silicone after the "Epoxy Platic Weld" just in case you miss a spot...to be honest im still trying to concieve your vacum concept...Periodically suck out the hot air?..or always on?...why not just throw some copper piping in their and have a fan blowing on it.?

How big are most of these chiller compressors everyone is using?

edit

so if i got that tiny little 70$ kenmore a/c unit basically in a nutshell i would have to

1. gut it
2. make or buy a res and place the evaporator in it
3. get some denatured alcohol and some antifreeze for corrosion
4. good tygon tubing
5. then bend the tubes and whatever and now i'm a little confused, you take a pierceing valve and drain the charge until you find the lowest temp, but then how do i patch that piercing up?

insulate and stuff and then finished.

so is that the essentials, probably in the wrong order, but is that the basics?

28 pages is a little too much info for me to go through right now. What I dont understand is how that cold reaches the cpu. Is he using water.... or what? If he is, how is the water cooled. Can someone explain this whole thing to me? If what he's doing is a bit more advanced for a first timer, what do you guys recommend thats still effective? Keep in mind, I have never done anything like this, I have never worked on A/C units nor have I ever done any professional electrical/HVAC work or welding. I dont even own a blow torch nor know how to use one. Are there different methods for using an A/C unit?

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28 pages is a little too much info for me to go through right now.

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I'm a n00b as well, but take the time to read. One thread I keep hearing over and over is that if you don't do this right it can be quite dangerous. And if you're not going to take the time now to just read up, then I doubt you're going to take the time to be careful if you do anything like this. Like all things, if it's worth doing, take the time to do it right {jumps off soapbox}

Now that that's over...I have a question as well. I think this summer I'll be doing an AC into a chiller. I'll have lots of help, my bro is an EC tech at Boeing and he's got friends that work the HVAC systems so I'll have lots of help.

System that will be cooled will be running a socket 939 AMD and dual 6800 Ultra video cards. Which of these AC units would be the better start?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...gle+Room+Units

or

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...gle+Room+Units

?

Well the thing is Im incredibly busy right now. Is there a guide or something I can look at?

Wow what a trip that was , I had some problems on the way of building my chiller and most of it was bfg rma service. I had a problem with my computer it shut down with that wierd blue screen protecting the windows and never new why!!!! But when I got into building my chiller I seen on my video card It was missing a chip on the board and right then I knew that was why my computer was acting up... So I rma my card and getting tech to believe it had a missing chip was hard because they dont believe anything so anyways I got a card and it was missing the same chip that my first card was missing..So I call them back and to make this a short story it took 3 months of back and forth to get a good card what a nightmare !!!!!!

So here is my next problem I found a 12000 btu ac and it was free thanks mom but I cant get it to fire up .... I think it is the thermostat it had a long little tube connected to it and it cracked off in the build... can someone help me on getting this thing running thanks...

Hi, I've just read through all 28 pages, most useful information, however, i still have a couple of questions before i commence on my own system over the summer.

I currently have an Eheim 1250 pump, what kind of temperatures will this be suited down to? I'm hoping for final temps of around -40 degrees celcius. I also have a DangerDen TDX CPU block, this has a lucite top, are there any problems with using this kind of top? I've also got lots of Tagan R3603 tubing, would this be usable down to -40?

Thanks in advance!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unclean

Hi, I've just read through all 28 pages, most useful information, however, i still have a couple of questions before i commence on my own system over the summer.

I currently have an Eheim 1250 pump, what kind of temperatures will this be suited down to? I'm hoping for final temps of around -40 degrees celcius. I also have a DangerDen TDX CPU block, this has a lucite top, are there any problems with using this kind of top? I've also got lots of Tagan R3603 tubing, would this be usable down to -40?

Thanks in advance!

---

Yah, i also have the same question, on the plexi top and what kinda temps can most pumps handle? Like my Mag3, do plexi tops crack under such subtemps?

Wow, very nIce Thread.

I know this is a n00b Question , but.



Can something be done with a Mini Fridge in the same manner AC units were used in this thread. I got a spare Mini Fridge, the compressor I peaked at and says 1PH, 80 watts.

Or are AC units cheap enough for it to be Worth it.

A mini fridge is not capable of holding a constant heatload. You risk burning out the compressor, as well as getting high temps (the condensor is no where near rated for a PCs constant heat output).

Just try to pick up an AC unit. $80 at walmart come spring (may or so, before summer hits)

The smallest you can find is still overkill, so a 5000 btu unit will do a great job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eBoy0

Yah, i also have the same question, on the plexi top and what kinda temps can most pumps handle? Like my Mag3, do plexi tops crack under such subtemps?

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I would suggest brass topped versions for those kind of temps. Also if you submerge a mag3 in your res it will most likely crack being that cold. My advice would be to get a little giant pump and run it in inline. Tygon R3603 should be fine, just insulate everything a lot. PM me if you have any other questions.

Well I have started on my chiller, I had taken the window AC unit out of the bedroom for the winter, it was in the garage just sitting there...... I broke a line trying to bend the copper lines. Dam well it looks like I am going to be taking it into a shop to get it fixed up after I get it all mounted up. I completely removed the 110 fan. I am using 120mm 12v computer case fans. I bought a 120v to 12v 3 amp transformer, a crossover and a 4700mf capacitor from radio shack. I cut the wiring harness off of the 110v fan and have it running to the transformer. I have room on the condenser for a total of six of the 120mm case fans. Right now I only have three but will be getting the rest soon enough. I could not find the small cooler that you guys are using so my reservoir is a bit bigger….. Probably too big, 34 quart, LOL. I think I may be putting a spacer in it to take up some room. I’ll post some pics when I get closer to getting it finished.

Hmmm I was at the auto part store today and found a 12v fan for a radiator I think it is about the right size but they want $54 but it has a fan shroud.... I am reconsidering my case fans and maybe will buy this fan..... My transformer has a middle line so I can run 6v and my AC unit has a regular and turbo speed (both are currently wired to my transformer so they do the same speed) I think I can figure out a solenoid circuit to do 6v and 12v (turbo)

Great thread people!
I have caught the subzero addiction and am in the process of building a liquid chiller.
Any thoughts or advice on a ehiem 1250 (http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=26&page=1) and a RBX cpu block (http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-blc-230.html?id=HC5ieSy6) for down to -40c?

1250 is a good chiller pump. RBX sucks. You want a simple block. MCW6002 works perfect.

Hmmm i read somewhere that these are a lot easyer to insulate too.
Being all copper brazed together,i'd feel a lot better using this block with extremely cold temps. Not to mention it's performance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gary Lloyd

You haven't tuned it yet, so you don't know how low it can go.

Next you need to get a piercing valve and a set of gauges.

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:slapass:

I'd just like to point out to all the noobs out there reading this thread, before you go dumping refridgerent into our lovely atmosphere, that in most countrys it is illegal and comes with a hefty fine if you are caught.And besides, i live directly below that hole in the ozone layer everybodys so worried about, so quit it! lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by {.bLanK} GoD

:slapass:

I'd just like to point out to all the noobs out there reading this thread, before you go dumping refridgerent into our lovely atmosphere, that in most countrys it is illegal and comes with a hefty fine if you are caught.And besides, i live directly below that hole in the ozone layer everybodys so worried about, so quit it! lol

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Well that is why propane is a good refregerant. !!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonathan_S

Well that is why propane is a good refregerant. !!!!

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And guess why propane can be a bad idea.:explode2: Haha

(if not used correctly that is)

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=13864

Quote:

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Originally Posted by {.bLanK} GoD

:slapass:

I'd just like to point out to all the noobs out there reading this thread, before you go dumping refridgerent into our lovely atmosphere, that in most countrys it is illegal and comes with a hefty fine if you are caught.And besides, i live directly below that hole in the ozone layer everybodys so worried about, so quit it! lol

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Dito we got that lovely hole in BC too, So Venting to atmospher is stupid, don't be stupid!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chaser435

Wow what a trip that was , I had some problems on the way of building my chiller and most of it was bfg rma service. I had a problem with my computer it shut down with that wierd blue screen protecting the windows and never new why!!!! But when I got into building my chiller I seen on my video card It was missing a chip on the board and right then I knew that was why my computer was acting up... So I rma my card and getting tech to believe it had a missing chip was hard because they dont believe anything so anyways I got a card and it was missing the same chip that my first card was missing..So I call them back and to make this a short story it took 3 months of back and forth to get a good card what a nightmare !!!!!!

So here is my next problem I found a 12000 btu ac and it was free thanks mom but I cant get it to fire up .... I think it is the thermostat it had a long little tube connected to it and it cracked off in the build... can someone help me on getting this thing running thanks...

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You'll have to replace that control with something else. When the tube snapped you lost your charge in the bulb/tube.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andybg

You'll have to replace that control with something else. When the tube snapped you lost your charge in the bulb/tube.

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:lastweek: or january 31/05 is this case;)

:welcome: to Xs but you may want to check the date of the post ;)