I dont like that it freezes in bios pretty often and the booting before bios when around 220 blc :(
Btw what bios should I run with for max blc stability (no sub zero cooling)
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I dont like that it freezes in bios pretty often and the booting before bios when around 220 blc :(
Btw what bios should I run with for max blc stability (no sub zero cooling)
Here was the problem: I can't downgrade BIOS. The current set of Asus tools do not allow me to downgrade BIOS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sepander
Then I found this post:
So I used AFUDOS Engineerin 2.36es via bootable USB device. It works.Quote:
One point here, EZ Flash 2, Asus Update (all versions) and AFUDOS (all versions from ASUS's FTP site) do NOT allow downgrading your BIOS. As silly as that sounds, none of those utilities will allow you to do it. What you need to do is find the "engineering" version of AFUDOS. Try searching for "afudos engineering 2.36es", you'll find a link to the version of AFUDOS you require.
Have to wonder why they(ASUS) make downgrading harder than it should be?:confused:
so they can trick people into using new BIOS's that do nothing :rofl:
Anyone hear of rumors or anything for a Rampage III GENE?
The builds on XS and all of its color coordinated system builds has changed me from a performance per dollar person halfway into an aesthetics whore.. :rolleyes:
I need an all Red and Black LGA1366 GENE..
Hi All.....
Batch 3837B072
Cpu 130625
Qpi 1550
Ioh 1200
Cpu Pll 18500
H2O
[IMG]http://www.pctunerup.com/up//results...5_Cattura4.PNG[/IMG]
dang a C0 ... didnt even know they were still out there :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinsent
whats your max OC with it?
Hi all.....Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duke
For this cpu.....
On Gigabyte UD5 220x21 with 1.456 cpu volt
On MSI X58M 224.4x21 with 1.608 cpu volt
On Asus rampage gene II.......in working...:shrug:
your bclck wall will be around 221 on the GENE IIQuote:
Originally Posted by Vinsent
Well a very quick ln2 test with gulf q3fe A0 ES on the R2G
i stayed at very safe volts 1.68v but only had like 5 ltrs of ln2 this cpu has alot more in it.
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5545/cpuca.jpg
very nice so far :up:
When will you be pushing it to the max?
This weekend at the RFLAN im hosting an ASUS booth w/ LN2 display will do a thread next week :)Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duke
I posted information similar to your quote. I cannot think of a good reason ASUS stops people downgrading their BIOS, I've downgraded a few times and saw no technical reason to disallow it. After loading BIOS 1202 on my machine using the same OC settings in the BIOS as 0904, Windows presented me with a blue screen I never had before. I upped the CPU voltage and sure enough Windows would boot, resulting in more heat on my CPU. I'm staying at BIOS 0904 as my 4.2 GHz overclock works great. The release notes of > 0904 BIOS revisions state support for newer CPUs, from what I've seen obviously something else changed as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sepander
new bios just when will the unknown?
New bios 1307....
Description (ASUS):
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[ 1307 ]
----------------------
1. Improve memory compatibility
2. Improve system stability
3. Update CPU Level Up function
4. Fix DEL and F8 keys doesn't work with Microsoft Reclusa Keyboard
5. Fix 2.2T HDD size is wrong if Quick Boot option is disabled
6. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at:
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...Language=en-us
Thanks, but I'm sticking to 0904 as previous BIOS releases have been awful, 1033, 1104, 1202, etc. All of them blue-screened Windows using my existing overclock settings, forcing me to up my CPU Voltage therefore increasing the heat output. If someone wants to try 1307 and report back, many thanks to you, but that person will not be I. :)
Hi all....
For me bios 1307 is the best....
http://www.xtremeshack.com/immagine/t54180_capture.jpg
How does it compare to BIOS 0904? Any change in voltages required when going from one BIOS to another?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinsent
changes are observed as stable as the 0904 and 1202
Anyone having boot problems with a Intel G2 80Gb SSD drive. Sometimes my Intel SSD will not boot and after I start computer it says "missing boot drive". After turning off PSU for a bit I restart and 3-4 times later Windows will finally start. Not sure if I got a bad RMAed mobo from them or my Intel drive.
I hope this will solve my retarded BSOD's that i cannot solve for like 3 weeks now. When i think i found the solution i get slammed by another clueless BSOD. And i have a great suspicion it's the Gene's fault.
It's not a question of which is stable, I've no doubt they are all stable, it's a case of which BIOS revision forces me to use more voltage as compared to the BIOS revision I was using before. I found BIOS 0904 to be the last revision which enables me to use low voltages, except of course the just released BIOS which I've not tried yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by zonders
I wish I had SSD boot problems! In that I'd like to have an SSD but they are too expensive. I wouldn't want a Windows boot drive less than 120GB due to what I install on it. What RIIG BIOS revision are you on? There's a setting in the BIOS for drive type, I don't recall the exact wording, the values are AHCI, RAID or IDE, could that be the problem? I'd check for a firmware update for your Intel SSD, or even your RIIG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu(ky
When do you get the BSOD? Just idling or playing games? Maybe your overclock isn't stable, if you are overclocking.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
I've tried so many things i don't even know where to start and what's causing this. BSOD's are totally random. Sometimes i get them while listening to music in Foobar2k, next time during gaming, some other time on normal system startup, next time during file copy to USB key or just while browsing the net. Temps are all ok, nothing overclocked, tried reinstalling OS, tried different drivers, different PCIe slots etc etc. And when i think i finally managed to do something and system works fine for a day, i get backstabbed by a BSOD another day. I work with computers for like 10 years now, and i mean in a totally geek way but i just can't fix this :banana::banana::banana::banana:. Holding fingers crossed with BIOS 1307, because i'm really tired of this crap and just want to use my PC as i did before.
Wow, a real nightmare, eh? So what would happen if you did this, went into your BIOS and selected "Load Setup Defaults", then booted Windows into safe mode. Loading the BIOS defaults would eliminate any setting which may cause incompatibilities, and safe mode in Windows would eliminate any drivers which are causing Windows to croak. I would go from there. I do not think a newer BIOS revision would help, I suspect it may be PSU, RAM, video card, or "something" installed in Windows at fault.
Hi all....Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
This Bios fixes unstable voltages, especially QPI Voltage.....:up:
scratch with a little bit with the new BIOS 1307, too, can confirm :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinsent
If you find 1307 working for you, great, I'm sticking with 0904. :) Actually it's not that > 0904 BIOS releases are unstable, it's just they require me to use more voltage. Anyway, benching my system takes days and days, I just don't have the time to spare as I need my system working.Quote:
Originally Posted by zonders
I've been using bios 1202 since it was released as it was the first one to truly fix cold boot issue that happened with previous bioses, including the 904. I tried 904, 1202, 1307 and all my preliminary testing showed that for every single bios i needed 1.443 vcore for 20 linx passes stability. Maybe it's just my cpu, or other voltage settings, but changing bios had no effect on required vcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
From the looks of it, 1307 fixed my dreaded BSOD problems. I really hope it's not just a coincidence, but so far, after 3 days, no BSOD's anymore. I hope it'll stay this way.
I'm still experiencing the dreaded cold boot issue after upgrading to 1202. :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by usz
Phil
Are you refering to the inability to boot when overclocked? I think i'm just experiencing this. I can now finally overclock i7 920 to 4GHz again, but the system just won't boot from zero. Then i press reset button and after few seconds, the system boots up normally. It's kinda stupid really...
The latest bios needs a bit more juice but no cold boot problem so far.
EDIT: Bloody problem is still there!
Phil
Ive been having the exact same issues for the past few weeks and thought it was the gene, but then did memtest and singled out the problem : one 2gb RAM stick was half dead.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
I've tested my memory with memory tester in Vista (Windows Memory Diagnostics) and also 2 passes of MEMTEST. All finished with flying colors. But i think i found the problem now. It's looking good but i don't want to be too optimistic as i tend to get backstabbed as soon as i do that. It seems that my HDD was causing BSOD's.
I've checked it with CrystalDiskInfo tool and i got immediate WARNING in my face and light was lid under "re-allocation sector count" number. HDDlife and Active@Disk Monitor were showing all fine but it seems it was not fine. But BSOD's were still going off...
Then i've bought WD Caviar Black 2TB because 750GB Samsung was already getting too small. Installed it and so far, what, 3 days of usage and not a single BSOD. I really hope this is it. Because Samsung is still covered by warranty and i have a new HDD anyway. I just hope the drive was the cause. In fact it now makes sense. I was getting ntfs.sys BSOD's in the beginning which then escalated into irql_not_less_or_equal. And Event Viewer always ended up with "Unexpected shutdown at XX:XX".
The most unsusual problem i've ever encountered in my life working with computers. And it sucks debugging it if you don't have components for testing...
Just saw the new Gene III today at the Tech conference... board looks pretty fab too... hope it clocks even better...
looks pretty I7 to me :)
http://users.telenet.be/OAP/geneIII.jpg
With X58 for LGA1366 ? They mostly churn out P55 boards...
What was the color scheme of the board? Blue and White? Or Red and Black etc..?Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Please share some pics of the product.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Phil
+1 :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
hey guys, im trying to control my cpu fan speed... its constantly at 100% , even when q-fan is set to 'silent'
what are your temps?Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
I've noticed a similar thing, well a weird one.
If i use Silent Mode and a resistor between fan and mobo, the fan should spin slower than when QFan is set to DISABLED and resistor is also used. But that's just not the case. The fan spins at the same speed.
Are you using PWM fan? Speed control for the CPU header is strictly PWM based. The rest of the headers are controlling the fans via voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
Phil
Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
It's like Phil says. The easy solution for the non-PWM fans is to connect CPU fan to CHA1 or CHA2 header, turn on Q-FAN for those connectors and put CPU fan monitoring on ignore. This is how I used to run my board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
P5Q Deluxe had option to select whether you want PWM or Voltage mode. On ALL connectors. I highly doubt a ROG class mobo would not have such feature...
I'd assume that mobo could detect if there is a PWM fan and use PWM automatically. If no PWM, then Voltage is prefered by default. That would make sense.
I used to have same option on P5E64 WS Evolution, but now it is missing from all my R2G, M3G and R3E. Not sure how R3E handles fans, as I only run it on water, but on Maximus 3 Gene I had exactly same issue as on R2G and ended up with using chases Q-FAN and headers.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
You meant you need to disable fan monitoring or RPM sensing for Q-Fan to work? Mine is running perfectly with both PWM (CPU)/Voltage (CHA/OPT) control + RPM reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by usz
To RejZoR: Switchable PWM/Voltage fan control is no longer available on most recent and the latest Asus boards.
Phil
No, I simply meant disable RPM reading, so that the board won't beef about missing CPU fan. The Q-FAN just won't work on CPU fan with voltage control.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
NDA 27th, colour scheme is alike Crosshair Formula IV and REX IIIQuote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
That sucks considering nearly all fans are non-PWM. Would make sense why i don't see any change with QFan in different states though...Quote:
Originally Posted by usz
That's probably because your fan is not reporting the RPM accurately due to very low speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by usz
Phil
according to the LED poster, it is 35 degrees currentlyQuote:
Originally Posted by The Duke
by PWM do you mean it has a 4-pin connector?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
yes that is what i found too, the fan speed varies when i put it in a chassis fan header... but thats no good for cpu cooling at all since the mobo stays cool while the cpu gets hotter and hotterQuote:
Originally Posted by usz
i downloaded speedfan in hopes of being able to control the fan speeds that way, but it has no effect... it doesnt even report the rpm of everything other than the cpu... plus the temp readings look way too low to be true
also, the LCD cpu readout is always 2 degrees higher than what it shows under 'CPU' in speedfan... 60/58 degrees running prime95, corsair h50, stock clocks and voltages
::edit:: stopping prime results in an instant drop in temps in Speedfan, but the LCD readout remains constant... i dont think i trust the LCD that much anymore
Thats right.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
Phil
probably a slightly unrelated question here, but is having a 5 degree difference in temps between cpu cores normal? or should i redo the heatsink...
the lowest temp is a reasonably low 41 degrees celcius at prime95 load, with ambient temps of 22 degrees
let it idle, however, and it drops to a fantastically low 13 degrees celcius at the same ambient temp
Normal...
do any of you actually trust the temperature readings of Speedfan or the LCD Poster?
What kind of mainboard temps are you folks getting. Mine is pretty toasty at 47c. Room ambient is 32c.
Phil
on mine, the LCD poster says that the mobo is 39 degrees, while speedfan's 'system' reading says 40 degrees
ambient temperature for me is 20 degrees
i've bought a delta fan for the summer...
also the temperature difference between my cpu 8 'cores' in speedfan has increased up to 7 degrees celcius when running prime... hottest pair of cores reached 57 degrees while the coolest pair stayed at 50 degrees ... i thought that replacing the thermal compound with artic silver would fix that, but it made no difference...
one more question, is there a way to get more control over what the LCD poster shows? i want to make it stop cycling through all 6 temperature readings and stay on the cpu
depending on what TIM you used before ... reapplying will make little difference unless the first application was terrible.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
BIOS should let you choose what you want to scroll on the screen ...
I experience the same problem. I use 3-pin fans on this board, plugged into the CPU and front & rear fan headers. When I try to control them with Q-Fan, only the front & rear case fans will slow down, but not the CPU fan, however I'm sure 4-pin PWM fans would work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
I'm sure my current board has these specs. Is this supposed to be from the Gene III spec. sheet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Off topic, but any update on this? :para:Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
What else would you expect? I bet the R3G will be just like R2G, but with Nec USB3 controller and Marverll SATA3 controller slapped onto it. Plus new RoG connect and repainting, so it looks like M3G, maybe with radiators styled like on R3E. What else is there to add, since there is no new IOH/ICH from Intel.Quote:
Originally Posted by aln688
Sorry have to keep my piccies one more day in the box lads, will be a small article at Shrimps site tomorrow... I'm at he MOA qualifiers tomorrow in Eindhoven, but the editor promised me it would be up around noon euro time...
Some new pictures and a right up on the new Gene III here http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/mot...age-iii-gene/1
Ow noes, where did the fusion block go? Also seems there is USB RoG connector like on M3G, so no bluetooth for this one. One more thing that apparently got dropped is the X-Fi capable sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warranty_Void
USB 3.0, SATA 6GBIT , new looks, some new features and a little beefed up cooling is the only changes as far as i can see?
Good for those that are going to buy a new MB now but I would not buy this motherboard just for the buying purpose and because its newer:P
I was looking forward to the new version and upgrading my Gene II but with only USB 3.0 and SATA 6GBIT the rest of the board looks like a step back in terms of features.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cralle!
Exactly! What a huge disappointment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warranty_Void
Phil
What on earth did you expect then ? a mini REX III with digital PWM's 4 PCI -E slots... you guys hopes might be unrealistic. This is still a high end mATX mobo, nothing more but certainly nothing less. Why is it a step back in features ? Also take in mind the price level is a very important key factor
Isn't there a saying : don't judge a book by it's cover ?
With all due respect, could you clarify what you mean by..Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
"Why is it a step back in features?"
when Asus has taken away the removable NB heatsink featured on R2G, among others.
If you look at R3E, that's a genuine step up from its predecessor with most, if not all, original features retained, plus all the extras.
Phil
So you don't think the new heatsink design might be better , you already know it will run too hot ? Block is beefier than the older one so it might just do the trick out of the box this time. Gene II also worked stock with air cooling. But not with watercooling on the CPU as it needs flow. An extra fan or aftermarket heatsink to cool the IOH is a must on that board. Is it needed on the III ? I don't know about that yet till I have the board.
In case they had to add all the new features of the REX III and completely overhaul this board, it would retail at least a quarter higher, would you still buy it then ? This is a 24/7 board, the REX III in fact is designed for benchers, world of difference to me...
I see nothing wrong with the new Gene III, is it worth to upgrade if you already have a Gene II ? Dunno bout that.
Is it worth if you have a REX II to upgrade to a REX III for daily use ? Not sure about that either as 80% of it's new features will not be exploited by 24/7 people and mild overclockers ( with this I mean OCing at non extreme temps )
Judge it when you have it, think that's a a better way to approach things...
And I wonder what features of the REX III would you have like to be implemented on the new version ? which are interesting for you ?
New features, new board layout, who knows? No more than what anyone would expect of a newer version of a board. It's natural to assume there would be newer features considering the money it takes to develop, manufacture and market a new revision of a board.Quote:
Originally Posted by usz
On the flip-side, look at the Asus P6T Deluxe compared to the Asus P6T Deluxe V2, they removed the SAS chip and I think that was it. So maybe newer revisions of at least Asus boards don't hold too many changes in store, so it could be said not much is to be expected.
Looks nice, but I won't be upgrading as the R3G isn't a radical upgrade over the R2G. The heat-sink designs are interesting, I'm unsure if the NB actually has that much more aluminium on it, due to it's odd-shape. It also looks to be one-piece, meaning no more modular function.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warranty_Void
guys show you whether this is normal mother behaves in the SLI with two GeForce 9800 GX2 ?
I new there was a reason why I was compelled to sell my perfectly good-running RII Gene system. I'll sell my Phenom rig at cost when this comes out and maybe pick up another 5850 for Crossfire (who knows, maybe Nvidia will come out with a more energy-efficient FERMI)
Ok, i'm having this weird problem with my system and i'm suspecting mobo (again). I've fixed random BSOD's by replacing my Samsung Spinpoint F1 750GB HDD with WD Caviar Black 2TB. However, now on EVERY cold boot (this is being system disconnected from power grid), i get BSOD with ecache.sys being the reason for it. I can then reboot my system 10 times and it will boot fine. But whenever i start it from cold, i get the ecache.sys BSOD.
I was looking at Caviar's specs and it requires like 2x as long to spin start as other smaller drives. Could this be the reason that drive just doesn't spin up fast enough for system to load and then it fails. But if you restart it, the platters are still spinning and it then spins up to 7200 RPM faster and the boot goes on properly. Or the mobo just needs a BIOS update to correct this behavior.
Or it can just as well be something else. Anyone experiencing same issue?
Has anyone updated to BIOS 1307 for this board?
I'm still on 0904 and I'll admit nearly everything seems to work, with the exception of when I warm boot, sometimes I'll get "LOCKED" on the LCD Poster and I have to hold in the reset button for 5 seconds before it'll boot.
I'm wondering if updating to 1307 would fix this single problem? So far Google research has revealed slow-downs in one form or another, but nothing in regards to the "LOCKED" problem.
Thanks.
(Actually my LCD Poster is now faulty, the digits on it are corrupted.)
Any idea if i can RMA this board based on stupid cold boot issue? Whenever i boot system from a turned off state (system is powered down and unpluged), the system will BSOD during boot. After i restart, all fine. And even if i perfectly shut it down, it boots fine. Apparently it's working temperature related. But my question is, will ASUS accept RMA or not? This problem is pissing me off, especially considering i payed top cash for this board. But it was working fine in the beginning so i don't get it, does this thing degrades so fast by itself or what?
If you set the bios at default. No over clock and turn the psu off. Then restart in an hour does it still do it? It could be the overclock not the mb. It could also be startup timing with the psu. Try turning the psu on for 5 min without starting the mb.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
new BIOS will be yet? or mother is not supported officially?
I can have EVERYTHING set to stock, just RAM set at 1600MHz (it's rated at this speed, OCZ Platinum 1600MHz). This will cause random hangs, cold boot BSOD's etc etc. If i set RAM to AUTO, it will be set to 1066MHz. This way it'll work no problem. Not sure why i bought 1600MHz RAM if it fails to run at that clock reliably. But the thing is, it worked fine for like 1 year. Now all of the sudden these problems. I've never seen RAM to deteriarate this way but motherboards have...Quote:
Originally Posted by fordf250
Its possible. I've a pair of 1600MHz OCZ AMD Black Edition assuming they are optimized for AMD rigs, but I was wrong. I still can't get the damn modules running at advertised speed from day 1. Bought mine overseas and OCZ expects me to pay shipping back to their Taiwanese factory. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
Phil
Well, in my case it was working fine. Now, it's very unstable at the same speed, often locks up completely so i have to reboot and it freezes on cold boots. But before it used to work just fine. I've never seen any RAM degrade in such way so i'm suspecting the mobo.
But i'm afraid they'll just say everything is fine and send me the mobo back. I'll waste postal costs fr nothing and still have crippled mobo.
Run memtest first to eliminate any RAM problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
Phil
If you set "EVERYTHING" to stock...then you cannot run the memory at it's rated speed....because that requires overclocking the IMC. ;) Read my rant here:Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
http://www.techreaction.net/2010/10/...400mhz-absurd/
@Philwong
Did that and also with Windows integrated memory tester. Both were fine. But when i was running at same 1600MHz (doesn't matter which timing, be it 7-7-7-20 which worked fine or 9-9-9-24) it was always causing problems. Except when i bought the system. That's why i'm wondering what's failing at this point. Memory, motherboard or the CPU, considering it has memory controller integrated in it. But then again, if the memory controller or RAM was damaged in any way, wouldn't it be causing problems even at 1066MHz?
Same case here... my OCZ AMD BE at lower speed works just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
All these "overclocked" modules are probably binned from the regular 1333MHz lot and god knows the tolerance level.
Anyway, try down clocking CPU and everything else to further troubleshoot the problem. If you're still experiencing problem then it has to be the RAM.
Phil
Well, CPU is running at stock, it's just the RAM that i've set from 1066MHz to 1600MHz. If i'd knew there will be such ridiculous problems, i'd buy 1066MHz from start and use the saved money for better graphic card or something...
Head to OCZ forum and ask for help.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/forum.php
They'll request you try some settings and run memtest to verify.
Phil
Posted on OCZ forums, i hope we'll be able to solve this.
Good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
Phil
While i was doing all this i've also noticed there is a new BIOS for Rampage II Gene. Version 1405. They state there are only new CPU's supported, but i guess they also make smallf ixes on such releases...
they do make small fixes but also depending on the cpu. one bios may not oc the same as the other you were just on. if your cpu is already supported by the current bios there is no need to upgrade/flash unless the new bios fixes a problem your currently having.Quote:
Originally Posted by RejZoR
Damn it, back to square one. Tried as they said on OCZ forums and guess what. At speced settings of 1600MHz, 8-8-8-20 and 1.65V the system is crashing all the freakin time.
I could even try 9-9-9-24 and same thing. For as long as it's anything more than 1066MHz, regardless of any other settings, it will keep on crashing.
Tried with just 2 RAM sticks (out of 3 that i have). It was still crashing. Now i've set everything to specs, except VDIMM, i left on AUTO. Guess what, the system is not crashing anymore. I'll probably again exhibit cold boot issues, but at least it's stable when it starts to run.
So, what are you guys thinking? Could this be a dud RAM? I mean i could blame the board or the mem controller if it wasn't crashing with just 2 sticks or insanely high timings. But that's not the case. Though, on the other hand, memtest and other memory testing tools always said everything is perfectly fine.
I'm so pissed about this that i've ordered a 3x kit of Corsair Dominator 1600MHz 8-8-8-24 RAM. If it will continue to fail it's MOBO. Otherwise, it's the bloody RAM.
I'm hoping that the RAM was the reason. It's easier to change than the entire mobo.
Ok have this board full water cooled on my 920 DO, I have g-skill 1600 9-9-9-24-2T ram, running at 1.65 v
Now i really need help in customizing my ram timings in the bio's, i can't seem to fiqure out how to stable it, most times if i go to 4.2 ghz it will say LOCKED on my lcd and not boot, and if i dink around with the timmings it seems to work, soo if anyone has good info on this plz help....
Bought a new kit of 6GB Corsair Dominator RAM (1600MHz, 8-8-8-24 2T @ 1.65V) and so far not a single crash or BSOD. I've even managed to slightly tweak it so i've ended up at rock solid 8-8-8-20 1T @ 1.65V and of course 1600MHz. What's the best out of all this is that my CPU is now overclocking better. Before it was constantly and randomly unstable, but now, 3,3GHz (160x21) @ 1.1V works like a charm.
So in my case, the RAM was causing all the ridiculous crashes and BSOD's even though memtest was always saying everything is fine. But it was clearly not. With new RAM everything works fine :D
@luluby
I suggest you do the same as me. Set CPU back to stock, set RAM to 1.65V and QPI voltage to 1.2V and then slowly decrease RAM timings until the system will refuse to boot. Then go one step back and repeat. Then you should boot up the OS and make a few repeated HyperPI cycles. If it doesn't crash, you most probably won't have any problems later on.
After this is done, do the same again for CPU. Set the max frequency that you managed to boot regardless of the CPU voltage (just don't go too high). Then gradually decrease voltage until you start getting problems. Then go one step back and repeat. Use Orthos or LinX to perform a stability check.
I've settlet at 3,3GHz as it's fast enough, yet it's not too demanding for AXP-140 cooler on low RPM in a small case.