Anyone ?Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketr2
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Anyone ?Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketr2
You shouldn't base 3d mark results on what would be best.. If your into gaming I would go sli, if benchmarking is your thing stick with one card.Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketr2
MoosePower,
How's that?
Infact, SLi/CrossFire is just for benchmarking. Single cards for gaming.
Multi-GPU is nothing but a pita for a gamer.
I'm not for benchmarking but for gaming. So I should go with the single card max oc ?Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
yes that would be best. keep it nice and cool, not too high volts
Pardon the noobness. I am good with computers, but know next to nothing when it comes to electrical.
What exactly makes it impossible to pencil mod the G92 cards?
Thanks.
Too low mod point resistance (FB-to-GND ~15Ω).
Applying a parallel high resistance resistor (pencilling) would have practically no effect on the total resistance - and as such vGPU - with such a low mod point resistance.
Thanks largon.Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
:)
Anyone,
I have a MSI 8800 GTS 512 that I would like to volt mod. I have already purchase a water cooler and now i'm going see which water block to buy. Its either going to be one that only covers the gpu or one that covers the ram and gpu. But i'm a complete noob , and I wanted to ask if it would be possible for anyone to volt mod the gfx card for me. I could send it you and pay you.
Let me know if this is something someone could do.
Thanks
Honestly dude, it's not extremely hard to volt mod with the instructions that all these experienced people give you and I think it would end up being better if you did it yourself. Also, make sure it wouldn't just be cheaper to buy a new card if you REALLY are going to ship the card out to someone to volt mod it and then pay them to do so.
It depends how much experience you have with soldering... if you're seriously worried about soldering, I say get an $8.00 iron from radioshack, some solder, and a cheap soldering project kit. You won't need much more experience to do a voltmod.
Yes, I also recommend soldering wires on to an old dead motherboard for practice. I soldered to one a lot getting ready to voltmod my old GTS, and when I did my card I wasn't nervous I just did the job. FInd small areas similar to where you are going to mod you vid card, and practice getting it just right, it will help a lot.
First I wanna thank for the instructions.
I only made the vGPU-mod and it works just fine. 1.16V @ 1.32V so far with H2O. Without this mod I could OC the GPU from 650 to 810MHz max 3Dmark06 stable, now It takes up to 875MHz with 1.32V and water about +25C. GPU Idle +33C, on load (?) don't know..maybe +45C? I 've MCW60 block on GPU. No heatsinks or aircoolers for Mem chips..
Shaders tested 1910-1920MHz, MEM @ 1120-1130 without any mods.
More tests in future.
Some pictures of my card and tests.
edit: vGPU @ 1.39V (900/1910/1110) 3DMark06
I'm wondering if anyone using air (or even water) with a vgpu mod can run the dreaded furmark for more than few minutes?
I can do it for hours long w/o mod and freq 800/1840/1060 on accelero s1 and hit t° around 67°. As soon as i switch on the mod with a modest frequency and voltage increase furmark will just crash my card in no time - in around 3-4 minutes the card will hit the 76° and freeze lol. Of course i can run bechs like 3dmark and such w/o problem and not hit t° above 50° but the thing that furmark destroys the card in a few minutes makes me not like the thought of using the card with a mod at such settings for everyday use. :shrug:
IMO furmark is very hard on the card, and especially volt modded cards. I use ATI tool to get a general idea, and then just use actual gameplay to decide if I need to go down a bit.
I have 9600GSO card, but chip is the same as 8800GTS. Volt-modded to 1,3V (original 1,21V). Cooling is TT DuoOrb. When using rthdribl 60C is max, but when I start FurMark temperature is rising to 73C. On higher voltages I saw 90C one time :) Games running well except Colin McRae DiRT, which freezes with voltages higher than 1,3V on any clocks. I'm thinking about add on/off switch, because this mod is useable only for benchmarks :mad:
Is 1.39v under load fine for regular use on a GTS? It never goes above 40C.
No vmods , My assinature ;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...K3dmrk2006.jpg
Bump. Can anyone tell me what the max safe load voltage is for everyday use please?
Only stock voltage is safe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gir92
Anything over this is up to you to decide what is safe and what not.
Things you might want to consider are your cooling solution and for how low you want to keep that card.
Temps never go over 38C, so that isn't a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus
I'm trying to ask what is the max safe voltage before it starts to degrade rapidly, IE: 65nm C2D at above 1.55v and 45nm C2D at above 1.4v
I would run stock voltage for 24/7 usage.
What do you want out of your card and how much will you gain by overclocking it?
If it does 800/2000/1000 on stock voltage i'd keep it like that.
How much do you gain by raising voltage so you can run 850/2200/1000 in everyday usage?
Not worth it for me, vmods are for benching, nothing else, just my opinion.
I don't mean to be rude, but you still haven't answered my question.
Can you give me some sort of number? IE: If you go past 1.4v it will degrade at a much higher rate than at 1.35
Ok I'll put it this way lol.
For those of you who run your vmods for everyday use, what is your voltage?
I used a 1k ohm multiturn pot, working great, I soldered the legs straight to the two points shown in the first pic in this article...
I just bent the pin going to the voltage controller 90° so it has clear space over the other components...
I pretinned the end of the trimpot wires, attached double sided tape to the trimpot and positioned it as I wanted, then I pretinned the solder iron and just heated the trimpots wires so I melted the solder I had already pretinned indirectly, it worked great...
Card isn't the best overclocker tho, I got it up to 800Mhz on stock voltage, after the voltmod I arrived at 870Mhz Core / 2125Mhz Shader and 1075Mhz memory for a stable overclock at 1.30v idle (1.35v load), I got as far as 890Mhz on 1.40v idle but it was not artefact free, and for 900Mhz I required 1.50v idle but that was not stable at all, all screen became garbaged after a few seconds, it didn't even work reliably at 870Mhz at this voltage... (Cooling is by EK Waterblocks EK-FC88 GT/GTS (G92))
I bought the pot at Elfa Sweden, it's article number is 64-712-39 but 64-722-03 would probably be a better choice because it's 500ohm... (Yes, even with a 22 turn pot the voltage goes up a bit too quick when you near 1.5v if using a 1k ohm pot...)
nice
i'm to shakey to do that,with the small screwdriver i have,i might short it lol
i just got an 98gt with a g92-400 core and it reacts quite the same,870@1.38 and it has beat ram too.
Nice job and pictures :up: Be sure and show us how to do the next mod on the card.
ovp ;)
Thanks, still getting the feel of my SLR tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by runmc
Hehe, well, not much reason with just water...
Now about that 10m high Liquid Nitrogen container my work ;)
Got a question tho, I wanna do the vmem buck mod, but I don't have the Intersil 6549CBZ controller IC but this one from the attached picture
Text reads;
P2349WF B3
U-FA885
G-07351
Anyone got any idea what this is? Google isn't being my friend on this one :(
I just want to find a datasheet to confirm it has the same pinout as the Intersil chip... I guess it should since AFAIK my card is reference design (Asus EN8800GTS/HTDP/512M)
Continuing my post above;
I measured Pin #4 (for a Intersil 6549CBZ this is "FB" (Feedback)) I got 0.80v
I measured pin #13 (which is "Phase" on the Intersil) I saw 2.04v
On the vmem measure resistor I see 2.01v
Are my readings in-line with what the Intersil chip has?
I want to do the buck mod so I can lower vmem...
On air on my 8800GTS I like to keep my idle voltage in the 1.3 to 1.35 range.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gir92
IMO once you start to get diminishing returns w/ added voltage it's time to back off a bit.
Per Hansson,
P2349WF (by ENE Technology Inc.) has the same pin layout as the Intersil chip. Reverse mod is identical.
largon; Thank you soooo much for the confirmation!
Hi,
I apologize in advance but I am using the translator of google!
I can please send glii schemes compelti DDI new way of doing the v-mod or explain how to do?
thank you very much
Raffaele
I did this vgpu mod last night on one of my g92 GTSs. 1.35 vgpu load @ 864core (linked shaders) air :)
I’ve been playing around with my setup as of late – like most who enjoy this hobby, I enjoy having my hands on the equipment. I’ve been thinking of replacing my 9800gx2 with a gtx 260 216c but after dropping my GTS in my gaming rig – I might just stick with this card. I play COD4 and like to have image quality maxed – hence the 9800gx2 was a good card for me. I’m talking 100+ FPS 4x AA the whole deal – but there was always something missing. When I dropped the GTS in last night I turned AA from 4x to 2x and enabled vertical sync - OMFG - this thing is like butter now. I never knew what “micro-stuttering” was and never thought I suffered from it due to the fact I have always gamed with SLi - but moving to a single semi-powerful card and enabling vsync. Man. I might never go back to a multi card setup. It was a new gaming experience.
This single GTS is really impressing me. All I lost was 2x value in AA (moved from 4x to 2x) that and a sh*t ton of heat that the GX2 makes in comparison to this single GTS - it just sits on 60fps and never moves. My 24/7 overclock on the e8600 of 4.250GHz can’t hurt either.
Thanks to everyone who has posted pictures in this thread, you made my Thursday night :)
- I’ll be adding my pictures when I get home from work tonight.
So is it recommended to volt mod the memory with the Qimoda's? Mine run cooler, and use pretty beefy heatsinks (if Everest is reliable, the memory temp is 32 C at load).
Stock is 2.0 volts, I was thinking about upping it to 2.1 or 2.15 maybe.
EDIT: I am stable at ~1050 memory, at stock voltage (2.0 volts).
Tried 2.15 and 2.25 volts, and neither allowed for stability at 1080 mhz.
I have the reverse Vmem mod in place. How my highest Vmem is now 1.88V? I used 50k pot. Or do I really need to turn it awful many times before it starts to get higher?
I have now adjusted it to 1.82V just because had to know it was working.
This looks horrible, you would propably do much better work, but it took 4 hours to get right. One hour went with dirty iron, it didn't heat the solder on the PCB at all.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/988...img2486.th.jpg
Maybe I need to do the Vmem mod again, if I don't see improvement in clocking.
Now I start to think it really looks so horrible that I can't keep it. But if it works, who cares?
Try reverse vmem mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by trueg50
Haha, blast from the past.
Thanks for the help, but now I am up to 1525 mhz DDR.... Cuz I moved to a GTX 285 ;)
lol
My first attempt failed, card was unstable because I connected wires so poorly, with only one string :) They got loose.
Now I made it better, used the whole wire to make connection. I got very familiar of the Vgpu controlling chips surroundings, because the solder pad got loose (The point where one wire is connected for core voltage mod)
I ignored it and soldered the wire to resistor which is connected to the solder pad.
Mods work now properly and I soldered measuring points too and used a fan connector for stylistic reasons.
I know this thread is really old, but i found it on google and it helped me alot to voltmod two 8800GTS G92. :)
The first one was already broken, it wasn't detected in Windows, and I just used the card to try out some things and made my first vMod experiences ;)
Then I got the second card a few days ago, vGPU mod worked perfectly fine. With a voltage of only 1,25V load i could increase the clocks from 648/1620/972 to 891/2160/1107, stable for 3DMark Vantage (benching is the only reason why I bought it). Didn't try 900MHz+ yet. I also did a vMem mod but it didn't make the card run at higher DRAM Speeds, I guess reverse voltmod is what needs to be done? :)
I don't want to increase the voltage even more, because the VRMs are totally uncooled ^^ (Accelero S1 for GPU)
Without the mod, the card ran @ 821/2052/1107 and gamestable 792/2052/1053.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacehead
"Now I start to think it really looks so horrible that I can't keep it. But if it works, who cares?"
it does what u wanted it to do,good job.dont be so hard on yourself.live and learn.:up:
Guys, Im looking at doing some budget retro benching, will these mods work on a GTS250 512?
Isn't the GTS250 rather a relabeled 8800GT? Would be impressed if there are similar voltage controller and even resistors. Found one here: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=153658&mpage=1
But I don't know if yours uses the same layout. If that's your card, perfect, if not I would suggest to open a new thread or just google a bit ;)
It's a rebranded 8800GTS. 128SPs. The GT has 112 SPs.
Didnt it also cop a die shrink along the way? I was looking at the pcb again and it is different to the original pics here, similar but components are moved around a bit.
:up:
Not all. The GTS250 I had had the exact same specs as the 88GTS I had except for the power saving feature and the higher stock 3D clock.
It was 65nm/128SP/G92.
OK I assumed it was a progression from 9800gtx+, I will try to get a good pic of the pcb and post it up. This is the card here.
:-)
You are right, it's a rebranded 9800GTX+. There are many different models of the GTS250 but the 'real' ones have the faster 1100MHz memory and a 55nm GPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
The 64-legged IC on the second picture is the vGPU control PWM IC. Whats the writing on it, L6713A?
Yes thats right, thats the one.
:)
Can you get another close up / high res pic of that area? And of the naked front too?
FB pin is pin 22 but its not possible to follow the trace on the pic.
Do you need the vMEM mod too? If so please check the writing on the other IC(14 legs) below.
The lower chip looks like "APW7067N MK8M3" , I will try to get a better pic as requested.
Jep, that's the vMem IC. Here's the datasheet: http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe.../APW7067N.html. The first chip, with 14 legs, is the one you need, as you can see the 6th pin is the FB pin (it's always counted from the marked nook of the chip).
For the vGPU Mod: You should be able to measure the resistance of the 22nd pin of that ST Chip directly at the pin itself. After that, I would measure the resistors around the 22nd pin, and check if any of them has the same resistance as the pin.
No, Pin 4 is the feedback pin of the PWM controller. Pin 6 is used as FB for the built in linear regulator ;)
Apparently, i'm an idiot. :D FB and FBL... :rolleyes: Of course malkavian is right :)
Can someone show me with pictures?
:-)
Sure :)
You always have to count pins counterclockwise starting by the small dot on the IC.
Sorry for the basic questions but the above pic is vmem mod? VR across those pins? What value? Is the pic in post 651 then vcore mod? VR to ground? What value?
Thanks.
Yes this is vMEM mod.
You put a VR between the feedback/vsen and any ground. To tell you the VR size you have to measure resistance between feedback and ground first.
Post #651 is Vcore mod but as I already said it's no possible to spot alternative mod points on this picture, the IC pin is really tiny.
OK I will try again for a better pic shortly.
OK I have some pics but I better email them to preserve the detail levels (and too large for posting here)
:-)
Ok, got your PM and you got one back :-)
Thanks, email sent but big pic alert lol
Ok, please have a look at your card. Can you confirm that's the conducting path' way?
http://www.abload.de/thumb/xs_gts250_3bqkv.jpg
I did a probe around the area and it seems that you are very close, I have marked the pic in yellow where I get continuity, yes including the pin next to it (#21?) .
From what I can see the resistance from vgpu FB to ground is about 781 ohms , and vmem FB is 643 ohms, so what size VR's will I need? vmem pins are decent size but the vgpu points are all so tiny ....
I also need read points for vgpu and vmem.
:)
Looking at your pic the trace seems to be different than what I've labelled. Usually you can follow the pathway by eye. In most cases it will cross some resistors which can be used as alternative soldering points. To verify this just measure resistance at those spots - it has to be the same as on feedback pin.Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
I've labelled some readings points on the pic. It's always a pair which means that one leg is ground(negative pole) whilst you can measure voltage on the other one:Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
http://www.abload.de/thumb/xs_gts250_56o52.jpg
Regarding the VRs I would use a 50k for vMEM and 20k VR for vGPU mod.
What I mean is - probing from #22 to all components in the area you indicated I found continuity to the 5 points I marked in yellow- 4 resistor points and pin 21. The second resistor your marked (that I didnt confirm in yellow) does not seem to make a circuit there. It is difficult to get my probe onto pin22 but I rechecked a few times to confirm my findings.Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
Last questions- what should default voltages be and how far should I increase them? What is safe voltage and max benchable for these?
If I can dig up the components I will have a go tonight.
OK guys, its messy but its running, default voltages appear to be :
vgpu idle 1.10v load 1.22-1.23v
vmem idle 2.08v load 2.07v
I fitted my VGA supreme to it too, its idling now at 21c so temp wont be an issue, testing now ....
:-)
OK vgpu mod didnt work, it looks like earth point isnt good, whats the best earth point to attach to?
:-)
OK I got it running and while xs was down I went by memory, turned the wrong pot and popped the card.... its dead ... Im looking for another now to try again ....
:(
Sorry to hear that. Actually any ground point should work well if the wire is soldered correctly. I usually use ground pins from PCI-E power plug, screw holes or mounting points from VGA outs.
PM coming....
:)
OK guys, this 9800GTX+ is going well now its got the water block on it, 1.4v doesn’t help much but 1.5v takes it to 920 core, 20,215 3D06 and 325k AM3 , but after this point the voltage adjustment loses sensitivity and jumps up too fast causing loss of graphics, is this OCP kicking in? Any time I change the voltage too quickly the display blacks out and I need to reboot to get it back, thats fair enough as the voltage change is upsetting the vid card but I rebooted at 1.55v then started 3D06 and the display blacked out again, what do you guys suggest? Is this OCP? I wanted to try a little more juice but it doesnt seem to want me to. I used a 20K 10-turn pot, should it have been a 10k instead? Also clocking the 2600K up (from 4.7Ghz base clock) doesn’t help at all, it is still just gpu limited? Which benchmarks like XP better? Will 3D06 gain any score with XP or only the older benchies? Is vmem/vddq worth the gain or is it too risky?
:)
Ok guys, I ripped the vmod dot out of my 9800GTX+ .... so now Im looking for another card to try again.... is a vmod available for this XFX GTS250?
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/img02991.jpg/
Cheers.
IMHO, those cards are ****ing horrible to work with. It looks the same as my first GTS250- I had 2 of them in the GTX+ flavour. Does it had a 2D mode? It'll ruin your clocking... and if the GDDR is like mine, 1250MHz and no further.