morphing1, one question
i have a shuttle ak31 and an Tbread B1700+.. shuttle is holding me at 133mhz fsb and tbreadb at 12.5x,
Do you think ABIT KX7-333 cant take me to 2ghz ? i´ll use 166FSB and 12.5x multiplier
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morphing1, one question
i have a shuttle ak31 and an Tbread B1700+.. shuttle is holding me at 133mhz fsb and tbreadb at 12.5x,
Do you think ABIT KX7-333 cant take me to 2ghz ? i´ll use 166FSB and 12.5x multiplier
NoOne,
"might" require a vcore mod dependin on ur chip, but that board will definitely do 166FSB w/o a problem :)
Has anyone figured out how to modify the bridges/pins of TBreds with a default multiplier lower than 13x so that they are unlocked and the upper intervall is available for overclocking?
The solution to this would be to buy an XP2100+ at least, as it has a 13x multiplier. But I don't feel like spending the money when I know I can oc an XP1700+ to the same frequencies.
I have memory that is good for 200+ MHz at really aggressive timings and I'd like to use this performance and 12.5x to achieve 2.5 GHz, this is is just enough to push a good sample XP1700+ Tbred-B to the limit I guess. But I'm borderline .. I'd like to be able to experiment with higher multipliers if possible.
My tbread runs fine at 2Ghz with default vcore :D.. but 200 fsb must rocks :D
Whel, lets spend more money :(
i don't know how good there painting guide is to this specific topic
www.ocinside.de
they have a tbred painting guide. if u know the limit u can paint the dots to get a 13 x or 14 x as wanted.
I don't know how the following problem stand in general, but I just talk to Spaceboy in he got major problem with his KX7 and tbred B, only 180 MHz fsb and random lockups in some apps. No problem with tbred A though, just something to think about.Quote:
Originally posted by NoOne
morphing1, one question
i have a shuttle ak31 and an Tbread B1700+.. shuttle is holding me at 133mhz fsb and tbreadb at 12.5x,
Do you think ABIT KX7-333 cant take me to 2ghz ? i´ll use 166FSB and 12.5x multiplier
That painting guide shoud be good, but for unlocking 13 and up on lower mp tbreds you need to cut the last L3 bridge or even better solder 100 Ohm resistor between AJ27 socket A pin on back of the mobo and ground. That was a tip by Nicozeg I'll try it today or tommorow I need to get soldering iron from a friend.
Ok!
how can i cut one bridge?
morphling1,
I've got a similar toy now ;)
If this thing clocks anywhere near my 2400+ I'll be extremely happy...don't really expect that tho. First testing will air-cooling w/ a Thermalright SLK-800 & a 48cfm fan. I'll report back :)
P.S. If I'm hijackin ur thread, I'll make another...but there are plenty of threads on these Tbred B's now so I figured I'd poke in here, lol
Hey no problem, this thread shoud be for all 1700+ nuts out there :D
Report soon :)
doing 3D @ 2.2GHz already no problem, not bad at all...lets see if it chokes soon. :)
what voltage ? prime95 also stable ?
off topic: where did my folding banner go, I didn' change a thing.
I put it to 1.9v right away, 12.5x166...just clockin w/ SetFSB right now, up to 180FSB so far seems stable...doing 3DMark loops. No Prime yet, I'll get to that yet...I never even Prime'd my 2400+ yet, I just know what it does 3D stable at.
regarding ur sig, change the "www.liquidninjas.com" in the link to "www.liquidninjas.net". There's a post in the folding forum about it...they can't have it on .com anymore & they're beta testing the .net one that's why it looks a little screwy right now. :)
Be back w/ more......like I said, just doin 3D for now. I'll know very soon whether it clocks like my 2400 or not ;)
Thanks for exaplanation about banner.
So how much did your 2400+ go, is that what you have in sig max 3d benchable speed and at what voltage, same 1.9 V ?
I must say, I am totally amazed. 12.5x190(2437MHz) was a piece of cake for this thing. I'm hittin a bit of a wall here @ 2500MHz...takin alot more voltage...unstable so far. I have to go to dinner w/ my wife, then I will try to see if I can do 2467MHz stable @ a decent voltage on air for a 1GHz OC on air. Surely can't wait to get this chip under my Spir@l...or another block, hint hint, hehehe, j/k :)
ya 2400+ in sig is max 3D-stable speed. 2v to do that.
this 1700+ is def. the better OC'r...not by much, but hey, its a $49 CPU :D
I cant wait to see what the 03## 1700+'s do.. if they are going to make any..?
So exactly the same feeling as I have. Its' just incredible, what this chips can do and how quickly multiplier become bottleneck :D
I'm getting the hints, yours will be in the mail tomorrow ;)
I know you made some changes to get the highest performance on tbreds, will you need to do any further changes for it to work with a Barton when they come out?
I wanna see 3GHz! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Well I think 1GHz OC will be prime stable on air. Was having some stability problems when I realized my 5v rail dipping to 4.7v? I was really baffled by that 1 as I had it set to 5.1v & it barely ever moved from that. Well, I shut down & tweaked it back up to 5.1 & now it just shuts right down upon load. I think it has taken a dump. Darn shame, I haven't killed any hardware in a looooooooong time. ;)
Oh well, off to diagnose :)
Well, my Antec 400W PP-412X is dead as could be. System running fine again w/ a 250W Enlight, lol, but voltage rails dipping too low to get much stability. Now I will hafta order a PS & wait :)
Reckon Antec won't take this back w/ the "void if removed" label torn? ;)
Ouch... Hope you get a new PS soon.. ;)
Vantec 470 anyone???
Antec 400 R.I.P.
I'd guess you're more unhappy with the delay than the Antec's demise.
Not for a while yet.. 8-(
I have to test a T-Bird 850, 1200, and a Duron 800 to see if they are dead first.. they all have slight chips oh the cores.. and im nearly broke.. 8-/
Well after doing the numbers a 1700+@ 2.2V @ 2700 MHz puts out about 186W. Your runnin about 45C with 20C water, so your about 20C off. Still, 45C on die with a 186W load beats the hell outta a White Water Rapids,:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:DQuote:
Originally posted by morphling1
No idea how far with prometeia, but I tell you one thing, my waterblock is a lot more effiient with heat transfer then prometeia evaporator, so If I can cool my water in the range of 0°C, I would say I'm about 10°C off the prometeia maybe even less.