Thx runme :woot:
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Thx runme :woot:
Its kinda hard to explain so ill just post some pics of it empty and full.Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
thats neat, but I never seen a glass like that.No idea how it works. LOL
just a thought, most sight glasses have a moisture indicator, is that telling us its full of liquid or full of moisture? No, since you got a pic in both positions I sure its saying full of liquid.
Is there a manufacturer mark on it?
does the flow of liquid make it flip up or what, if you have bubbles,say half gas and half liquid is it half way up?
I use a electronic sight glass so I rarely buy visiual ones,
all thats on it is made in USA and M.B. CO.Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
My guess is that the liquid changed that second glass inside from being cloudy to clear making the "FULL" word clear to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
Does anyone know how many Psi this waterblock could withstand?
did you buy that locally or get it on ebay?
talkig about the sight glass
I got it at the shop where i work. Its a gold mine there :DQuote:
Originally Posted by wdrzal
Ok today i removed the compressor loop and my temps are the same AS I SAID ALL ALONG THE COMPRESSOR LOOP WON'T EFFECT TEMPS IN THE EVAP!! :slapass: :slap: :nono:. I still think the compressor is too small.
What about the waterblock?
a water block is not a evaporator. and the loops did definely affect system temps. a given compressor and condensor can oly handle so much load, adding any heat to the system increases that load.
Still think the compressor is too small..........
Quote:
Originally Posted by _HL4E_HalfLife_
I read the last 2 pages where you had the pic of the valve assembly (in particular post 79 onwards, too much to read before)
There doesn’t seem to be an explanation on how it is meant to work.
Are the valves used for the secondstage? or first stage? and is that pipe the HX they are all connected to?
I did read 50” of capilaary line used, I also read that it didn’t get cold.
If you remove any plastic parts and braze the water block together (if its brazed already just pressure test it)
And it holds the pressure that you tested the valve assembly to, it should work fine.
Kayl the valves are attached to 5 different lengths of cap tubing i did this so i can change the cap length without having to braze it and can be done while the system is up and running.
U really think that waterblock could withstand 250Psi??
BTW kayl if ur following this thread u really should be reading it all :nono:
Well I had a bit of a setback today my rotary vacuum pump has stoped pumping it still spins but no pumping action. So tomorrow im gonna build a duel compressor vacuum pump. If everything goes ok ill have pics of it on here by tomorrow night. :D
that's exactly the reason why I buy a brand new vacuum pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by _HL4E_HalfLife_
2.hand or used compressors has a limited capacity to remover the air and moist from the system.
Like i promised heres a pic of my new duel compressor vacuum pump. Mannn does she ever pull a vacuum quick :D
ok i seen now, didnt realise they all just capubes.
the daul vacuum pump will work well.
try compound system, series compressors.
im not hope full now a second look at that evap.
maybe test it under water just in case splits.
i think i have to stop drinking on the internet not see properly :toast: and not reading properly :slapass:
It looks as if parralel compressors (yours) will only evacuate to a certain lvl faster. Compressors in series should give a better vacuum though.
Well i finally switched compressors the 1hp rotary is on stage one now i ran out of gas so ill have to wait till monday to get a new jug of 402A. I also might try using 402A as a 2nd stage gas too because at 20hg it will be at -80c ill just have to see how things go with stage1.
I also finished making some touch-ups on the vacuum pump.
UPDATE!!
I picked up a brand new jug of R402A at the shop yesterday :D. also I decided to remove the receiver mainly because those things will hold soo much liquid its not funny and its kinda of a waste and if i have to let the gas out of the system because of a problem (unless i recover it) ill just have to refill the whole receiver again.
Today I finally the system going on the new compressor and I was right the other compressor was too small and yet noone agreed with me on that :nono: :slap:
Also today I also reached a goal i had set way back when i first started building this to hit the -40c mark on 1st stage. :D Now i'm gonna start insulating the evap im hoping to get another 5 to 10c by doing this and making small tweaks to the charge and adjusting the fan speed to find the sweet spot.
Comments suggestions on other improvments would be appreachiated.
ANOTHER UPDATE!! :D
Just finished my first layer of insulation. Im gonna go to the hardware store to see what i can use as a second layer. Once i finished the first layer i turned the system on again and it went right down to -49c than for some reason it slowing came up to -25c than slowly when down -45c and stayed there. I think the reason it came up is because the thermometer probe moved and wasn't in good contact with the copper tube.
Nice job on the insulation. :toast:
From the look of it its under charged judging on low side pressure compared to pressure charts, you are gonna need more capacity for second stage. Whats the temperature of suction line first stage out of the hx?
Looks really nice... keep up the good work. Like kayl said; nice insulation :)
The sight glass is full so i don't think its low on charge.Quote:
Originally Posted by kayl
As for the temps i ran it again tonight and this time it didn't come back up in temp so it was the probe out of place. :D and also it went past -50c unfortunitly thats the limit of the thermometer with the probe on it anything lower than -50c just reads as LO. :( I dono what im gonna use now i can't afford a $200 thermometer :mad: