well the company im dealing with have both Gainward version in stock, and plenty of them.
i am concerned about BS on the single fan version
i may just pay an extra 70 quid and get the Galaxy Glacier 6800GT. any reports of problems with that? Or maybe with a AMD 64 3200 + CPU it wouldnt be worth it?
I wonder that anybody can guarantee wheather those will give (or not) BS in future since nobody has been reported anything about those versions (as I know).Quote:
Originally Posted by dandaman
If you consider GW 'version 2': those cards are working at first very well, BUT many users are complaining about BS after some months. The very wierd version 1b seems to be modified afterwards (see comments in #1), BUT it is not yet shown to be BS-affected (used ~1 month). How long this version will survive without BS (forever???). The reasons why I am very suspicious of this model are:
- This model generates exactly the same noisy audio as other versions (=switching regulator is not working very well)
- Quite same capacitors (c136 & c143) are used as an output filter and only little modifications were carried out at the feedback loop
Are those two models you reported similar to these version (nobody knows..)???
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I suggest that if you want to be sure not to get BS and you have extra 70$ go for Galaxy. However, it would be good idea to before ask wheather these GW's are new/better models and is it now guaranteed those are non-BS-models !
If you mind ask this from you PC-company, please post their answer :) Also if you are able to take a close look of cards, could you check out what codes are at top of those green-labeled caps (c136 & c143) i.e. "4 7 470 6E" ;)
The supplier is not very good at allowing me to check what the versions are.
the customer services dept and the stock pickers who send the cards out dont seem to comunicate very well because its quite a big company so i seem to be wasting my time when i request that they check the capacitor labels before despatching them.
So i dont hold much faith in them being able to tell me if the Gainwards are old or new models. Like i said, ive had the dual fan Gainward already, but unless u are deaf its not worth it. i didnt get BS with it but then i only played for an hour before removing it and sending it back.
Theres only GBP35 ($65) difference between the Gainward and the Galaxy GT and for that I get a quiet cooler and a GT version! i guess its worth it. Im just a little concerned that i cant find a website for Galaxy.
Im also a little put out that these cards cost 50% more than the PS3 and Xbox 360! are we mad!?
OK. I am sure you are right, they propably do not want anybody to check they hardware except very good reason :rolleyes: But, if they would be aware of this problem (?) I wonder they would not want to sell products coming back during a few months.Quote:
Originally Posted by dandaman
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I checked the figures of Galaxy, and it has nice cooler :D (NV 5?). So, if you do want a new card go for Galaxy..
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Yes, we are mad when buing these (even working ones) !!! I had ti4200 and STILL all games released so far are working somehow with that model... so, why .. we have been manipulated by all reviews/benchmarks/a-friend-having-brand-new-card to belive that without a new card cannot live.
The reason why consoles are so cheap is purely business. After buing one (=at price lower than manufacturing cost) you will buy 'again' your console with license fees of each game.
Hello, is the "Enhanced capacitor modification" possible to do without removing the NV5 Silencer from the card?
Hi KoR_Wraith,Quote:
Originally Posted by KoR_Wraith
Yes, very easily. Place capacitor at bottom side of the card . Use the figure to locate the TPs, and be sure about the polarity of the capacitor !!
It's funny that this error is collectively known as BS. I've been looking for the solution to this error on my system. This exact problem of BS happens to my BFG Tech 6800GT OC (factory overclocked) PCIe. My first call with tech support had me downloading EVEREST Home Edition to see if my card was overheating. Thats what I thought was happening because you can fry an egg on the back of the cards. My card is only at about 75 celcius when it drops out and the tech said these babies dont shut down until 135 C! Also, they had me switch the power cables around to no avail. I found this thread and have since called tech support for the second time. Looks like they will RMA but want to charge me for shipping it to them. I'm still talking to them about waiving this.
For me, Far Cry 64 drops out on Windows Pro x64 Beta after just 10 minutes usually. Both 3dMark05 and 3dMark03 go BS half way through. Aquamark and Alpin will not run (they dont want to install).
For $400 USD you would expect the product to work the first time around. They need to bench these card properly before they leave the factory. Do these people know about this and ship the cards anyway? I kind of expect the PCIe cards to be 'newer', and not have a design flaw carried over from the 6800le.
I've got:
AMD64 3000+
MSI Neo4-f Nforce4
Corsair Value Select D. Channel 1024mb
Themaltake PurePower 480w
BFG 6800 gt oc pcie 256
Hello again,
I'm thinking about adding this capacitor to my card, to check if it will solve the problem with pausing and hangin' up...
Cause I'm a little bit confused with this all electronical spec. you've given here, I'm asking you for a kind of recapitulation: what should I tell to my reseller in electronic parts shop to buy a good capacitor for easy cap. mod.? (I have GW 2100 LE)
thanks in advance
Incredible. Just incredible.
I just read through the whole of the first post about this whole BS issue.
My Sparkle 6800NU had a problem with BS back when it was in my old P4 Prescott setup. I had lockups under heavy load in progs such as 3DMark03 and 05 as well as Games like Doom3 and HL2 (HL2 moreso). I really could not figure out the source of my problems, and the card worked fine in any other PC, which was what led me to believe that this is not the same problem as what people were experiencing here.
In the end I upgraded to A64 at the start of this year and that remedied all my problems. I've since upgraded my PSU to an OCZ 520W (Antec 480W before) so one of these days i'll see if i've got the same prob when using another PSU. I've babbled on enough though.
Very nice guide. :)
---dens
I agree the name 'black screen' or BS is not very informative. However, that name was used in GW's forum at first and I think that it is the most commonly used term ..Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredhand
but now there is no idea to change it now !!
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Is your card exactly similar to post #1 ? I mean you have magenta labels top of those caps (c136&c143) ??
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I wonder you have (also) some extra problems (windows?), because you cannot install Skialpine and pass 3dmark's (e.g. I have never encounter BS with 3dmark's)
Yes, there are maybe too much specs and requirements, here is a very simply list for shopping:Quote:
Originally Posted by bertos
- Voltage rating > 6 V (too large means large can)
- Capacitance 3300 - 4700 uF (microfards)
- LOW ESR !!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeNs
First Sparkle !!! The list of affected cards will be looooog quite soon..
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Could you give labels of those green capacitors c136&c143 (e.g. "4 8 470 6E) ? Do you know a web-page having a good-quality figure of your card ?
Thanks for the advice, SikaRippa
Best regards
Hi, don't know if this is relevent or not but I have the MSI card featured in
http://img260.echo.cx/my.php?image=msi6800lev14jo.jpg
And it is most certainly affected by BS. If I don't lower the memory clock speed it can also frequently black screen just running windows...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SikaRippa
if you're still interested my old Gainward has went down to £99.00 - £116.33 inc VAT
It seems to have all features to be a BS-card. Do you have markings of "4 3 470 6E" or "4 8 470 6E" above green labelled caps ? When having "3" usually black screen has been appeared VERY soon, when tested with proper games.Quote:
Originally Posted by KoR_Wraith
If you want, you can test cap modification very easily without any soldering (see instructions). When testing with cap AND having normal clock frequency, you should see immediately the difference at performance (no more BS..)
You were right getting cheaper :D !! It would be nice to have a test-rat, but if that one is still working ....Quote:
Originally Posted by sunn
I wonder if somebody has a completely DEAD BS-affected 6800le-card i.e. almost free (?) and does not annoy anybody to solder some/every components away.
thanks for the advice. i have asked them for the Galaxy. Ill let u know what they say.
Hi again, there are any electronic shops near where I live...anyone know a good website that I can get one of the recommended capacitors off of?
P.S. I live in the UK
I live in Finland, so I do not hanging around those corners too much :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by KoR_Wraith
I am sure you can find a proper electronic component shop in every big/moderate size city in UK
BUT you can easily find (=rip off) a suitable component from old motherboard or PC supply etc. (Please check first that it is not broken/too old cap!) Those caps might not be the best you can find, but you can test the mod without any cost (and delay). I have myself tested mod with regular cap and it worked !
However, if you buy capacitors for this purpose select a good quality component.
Hello again, I found the site of an UK electronics shop - www.maplin.co.uk. Anyway, they have a whole list of different types capacitors . If you would be so kind as to kindly choose what one would best suit this purpose it would be a great help :D . The list is available at :
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?...r&doy=28m5
Thanks, KoR_Wraith
I checked the list.. I wonder that they do not have optimal models for this purpose, but IF you should select from those:Quote:
Originally Posted by KoR_Wraith
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Mproduct.asp?oc=TX84F
.. should meet the electrical requirements. Why not optimal ? The voltage rating is quite high (63v) which makes the physical size of the capacitor quite big (30x60mm).
I wonder why they have so few different capacitors ? I you are extrelemely interesting/and not afraid of Finnish language :D take a look list of local supplier (a very small BUT good shop):
http://www.partco.fi/luettelot/PARTCO2005-OSA2.PDF
(in page 10 there are electrolytic capacitors, in the middle of that page one can see the exact model I have used "ELKO LOW ESR PYSTYMALLI").
w00t, I think I found ones that would work good! Which would you go for:
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...=CA01869&N=411
or
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...=CA01879&N=411
Quote:
Originally Posted by KoR_Wraith
Yes, those look like just perfect :D
Take one having value of 3300 uF.
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If/when you have done the mod, please post how it succeeded :)
EDIT: Ooops, never mind. I read the table wrong! I'll go measure the right points now lol
Ok, even worse? TP5, which should be reading half the memory voltage (1.36v on your table)?? Well, that appears to be reading 0v on my card? TP7, which is right next to TP5, is reading 3.3v like on your table.
Next to TP7, is that TP8 or TP9? Because that is reading 0.6v on mine. I think that's TP8 and it's alright though.
Do those sound wrong to you?? I'm a little concerned that TP5 is reading 0v..
UPDATE: Just seem something else a little weird, there's three points to measure memory voltage? Well, TP10 reads 2.82v ... but TP14 is only reading 2.72v still! I'm gonna stick a lead on TP1 and measure that now too..
Perhaps I didn't do the memory vmod quite right?
UPDATE 2: TP1 also reads 2.82v .. it's just TP14 which is reading lower!