K.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Ill have it as a open option
Printable View
K.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Ill have it as a open option
ok, Im going for the TDX. Looks like a real nice block
Whats better, silver or copper TDX?
Im guessing silver
:shocked: $125 for silver
Should I get the Accelerator Nozzles?
Do I need a flow and temp indicater to know how to set them up.
I dont know anything about these Nozzles, so please explain for a noob :D
I saw some reviews saying that the PanaFlo TT was good. Is that true?
Get the copper version, the silver is no more than 1c better, not worth the money. Get the accelerator nozzles, they are very easy to put in, it'll be self explanatory once you get the block and the nozzles. You just take the top off with the allen wrench they provide you. Make sure you use nozzle #4 when you do the switch.
The PolarFlo TT is a good performing block, very well crafted, but they are expensive. Secondly, they use an anodized aluminum top which as well all know will corrode eventually.
Get the TDX, you'll be very pleased.
Should I wory about leaks on the TDX?Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
How do the nuzzles go?
Any pics showing how they work?
Lol, I knew you were going to ask about leaks. You worry waaaay too much man. The nozzles are little tiny plastic things, they fit right into place where the stock one is, took me like a minute and half to install the nozzle on my RBX awhile ago. Just get the block and nozzles and you'll be just fine.
oh, I see now
Didnt quite get your explanation, but I found this that helped me get the idea
http://www.madshrimps.be/printart.php?articID=152
Since Im going to use the TDX block with brass top, is it a good idea to apply AS5 between the brass top and the copper bottom?
Will it help transfer heat to the top, so water absorbs heat from the top and the bottom.
Also, wouldnt the thermal compund protect a bit more against leaks since it fills the smallest gaps between the brass top and the copper bottom making it harder for water to get out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
No. :hm:
turok.. there is no real cooling happening in the top. its all in the base near the center where the channels are.
so do NOT put thermal past anywhere but on the cpu.
very little cooling anyways, adding TIM wouldnt help though. Dont bother.
It seems really unnecessary. I would like to ask though Turok, what nozzle fitting are you going to use with the TDX? The stock, or some other ones?
I informed him that he should use the #4, once he receives the block + kit.
Yeah, Ill use what EnJoY said.Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowing
It will have 1/2" OD fittings and the tubes are 7/16"
Ill replace the nuzzle to #4.
Whats the #4 btw?
Is it the one with the largest hole?
The default nuzzle is the one with a lot of tinny holes, right?
If there is no heat going to the brass top, why should I use a brass top?Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
Would a acrylic top crack?
Yes, there has been some people that have had the clear tops of the TDX crack and leak. But also it could be from people replaceing the tops too tight when changing nozzles. I don't really know, and would not want to test it out on my system.
If I was you I would try all the nozzles out to see what temps you get. You could run a log and monitor the temp for a week then switch nozzles. This way you can find whats best for you. You probly end up using #4, but you will know for sure thats the best one for your setup.
The nozzles have the numbers on them. The number 4 is the one with the smallest/thinnest slit in it. The #5 is the one with all the wholes.
Hi againQuote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Im starting to get everything to finish my build. I got my TDX block, GPU, and some other stuff.
I have some questions:
Is there a site that can show me how to instal the nozzles and the TDX block?
I see that the GPU has a PCI-E power adapter with only 3 cables, but the PCI-E cable on my PSU has all the 6 cables. :confused:
Is this right? Whats the diference?
Dude, take the top off your TDX. It couldn't be more obvious once you see it lol. About the PCI-E power plug, I've never used PCI-E...but I maybe the 6 pin plug you're referring too is just two 3 pin plugs attached togethor.
I know I have to open the block, just asking for something more specific.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
One of the things is whats the order of the screw, springs, the small pipe, and the rubber things when installing the TDX block?
This information is on DangerDen's website.
Help!!!
I pealed off the stickers on the sides that say that waranty will be voided if removed and I removed all the screws on top until I got to a screw that didnt want to move. The hole seems to be a bit larger or pealed off and the screwdriver from the nozzles cant move it. I dont have a tip that fits on this thing and I dont want to try to get it out with the screwdriver from the nozzles because I could peal it off.
I would recommend they change the screws on the TDX blocks because these hexagon holes peal off easier. :mad:
http://img238.echo.cx/img238/8589/tdxproblem4cb.gif
If I cant get this screw out, how the hell am I suposed to get it out?
Will they RMA if I pealed the stickers? They should, since their nozzle screwdriver or the screws on the TDX block are defective.
Anyone know the size of these fittings?
Anyone know the dimencions of the screws so I can change them so they work for cross or flat tipped screwdrivers?
hmmmm. Will adding greace on the sides of the screw help loosen it?
Turok... maybe if you bought a hex tip screwdriver you might be able to get a little more leverage and get the screw out?
yeah, I was thinking about going to HomeDepo and find a fitting for my screwdriver with removable fittings. Problem is, what will I do if there is no way to get it out?Quote:
Originally Posted by Twoces
One of my ideas if this happens is to go to a metal shop and ask someone to weld a piece of metal on the top of the screw so I can force it out. I wouldnt like to end up doing this just because DangerDen didnt give me good screws or something like that.
Ok guys
I solved my TDX block problem and everything is set up. I sleeved all my cables (even the DFI chipset fan :D)
Added some AS5 on the chipset and the CPU.
All the stuff is pluged in and ready to go, except the tubes.
Im still missing the Heat Core. I will be getting the Monster core next week.
I also have to get some distilled water :p:
So all Im missing is the tubes I havent instaled, the monster core, and some distilled water.
http://img143.echo.cx/img143/3351/wcsolution9tn.gif
I would likes to get some hints on how to instal the tubes to gain the highes performance possible. I have some simple questions about it:
* Between the T fitting of the reservior and the pump, is it best to have it close to each other, even more close so the tips are touching, or far appart?
* My solution involves bending in diferent directions. Should I put it as short as possible (close to kinking), or should I feed more tubbing?
* Whats the best reservoir tube size?
Any other tips on tube setup that may help my peformance?
Turok