Hmm..this may be a little issue in my P180 and the recommend loop by mad mikee
Res-->pump-->lower inlet on rad--> upper out let on rad--> storm rev 2 cpu block-->mcw 60 gpu block--> res
res will be in a 5.25 bay
not sure but in my mind I figure 3-5ft of tubing total???
Any vinegar will do, as will lemon juice. You're just after the acid in it. As long as you rinse it out thouroughly of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by eXa
as long its not hydrochloric acid im pretty sure its fine. Obvisouly I dont know all the acids, but HCl is the one that I know will eat radiators to hell, along with alot of other things including your skin.Quote:
Originally Posted by Butcher_
Any acid will eat a radiator, given enough time. Obviously pouring battery acid in there will trash it somewhat faster than lemon juice or vinegar.
I've had an old maze4 with copper top and epoxied barbs in a vineger bath for about a month now. Today I decided to take a look, the vinegar had eaten the nickelplating on the barbs but the rest looked just like it did after five hours. There was a green/blue layer on the bottom of the bowl.
Butcher, its completely dependent on the acid.
like HCL atually repairs dammage to Copper while eating zinc and lead like there is no tommorow.
As long as you find an Acid that is safe with copper, zinc, lead, and silver (im pretty sure thats the important chemicals in the solder) then you can leave it in there for long periods of time with no dammage.
Interesting to know that Acetic acid goes after nickel.
Don't think HCl repairs copper - where would the new copper come from? :p
You're right that it won't eat it away though. Ironically battery acid is probably OK on copper also. :p
Generally though, leaving acids in metal containers is a good way to kill the metal container. ;)
How important is it to take apart my storm rev2 and mcw 60 blocks..I am afraid I will never get them as tightly together as they are brand new...
Used canned air and blew air through them...I will be flushing them out of course....
Butcher, with oxidiation of copper, the electrons get stripped from the surface of the copper, leaving the black tarnish. HCL replaces the missing electrons, thus repairing the Copper.
Of course, the article I read could have been written by a total crackpot considering this IS the internet.
But it does explain why acids, especially HCL, seem to clean HCL without doing it ANY harm or etching.
canned air probalby isnt the greatest idea considering it ISNT air.. its usually some non CFC refrigerant that is cheap and doesnt condense at too low of a temp. (usually -24.99C)
Usually Swiftech bocks are cleaned well, but there are always ones taht slip through so I would suggest you clean them. Retightening them is not a real concern, especially considering Swiftech supplys the proper tools to loosten and tighten the screws of both waterblocks.
OK..I will not blow any more canned air..never considered the refrigerant factor..duh:stick:
Maxxracer...would you suggest using teflon tape on the storm and mcw 60 barbs to avoid a leak?
you can if your paranoid, but the O-ring seal on the storm and mcw60 rocks.
not paranoid just found Asolute 0 thread on how the barb loosened and he had a bad leak...saw other people with issues ..so I asked a "guru"..Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
I am too ignorant on this too know better
Here's one of them... :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by nealh
Ah yes I see what you mean - yes, putting tarnished copper in HCl will cause the H+ ions to combine with oxygen in the copper oxide (tarnish) creating water and copper - effectively removing the oxide and restoring the surface of the copper.Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
Chemistry is the R0xorzQuote:
Originally Posted by Butcher_
nealh: if you tighten the crap out of the barb (so that the flange is level with the top of the waterblock) it wont loosten up. Not unless you do some freaky things when your bleeding the system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
thank you kindly
BTW what is the best way to do things..barb to block then tubing???
tubing to barb then barb tubing to block???
barb to block then tubing.
if you do it the ohter way around you will end up twisting the carp out of the tubing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
should then mount block after putting the tubing on then...or is that obvious
BTW thanKs Maxxracer your help and tutorial is awesome..on my third soak of rad...first was 3-4 hrs...last one was 6 hrsand alot of white crap came out...so I figure another vinegar soak is needed
yes, mount the block after tuing.
What you should do is mount the block first and then measure out the tubing so it fits correctly. Then pull off the waterbocks and put the tubing on.
thank you hopeful by tomorow I will be leak testing
just wanted to mention I received my storm water block today. I found in the installation instructions that swiftech doesn't recommend the use of dyes, or uv additives. They block the nozzles. Does this hold true with all of the higher restriction blocks?
All of the ones with nozzles or other high-turbulence plates/jets/etc... the extreme pressure changes and turbulence makes chemicals like dyes and stuff separate and gunk up your loop... itll do the same to zerex/hydryx/blah if you put too much.
any block that uses jets or small openings like the Storm will suffer the same fate when u use dyes or UV additives.
...about cleaning the rad...
how strong vinegar should be used?
i´m cleaning with a 5% vinegar (made from 30%) right now... is it alright or still not strong enough?
if you ahve 30% vinegar use that... it will just take alot less time to clean out the rad. just dont leave it in too long as the acid might start attacking the tin.