NICE WORK--I CANT WAIT TO SEE IT "chilling"
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NICE WORK--I CANT WAIT TO SEE IT "chilling"
OCme, did you buy the 3m products and the cork tape at a local store or online?
Quote:
Originally posted by gouda96
OCme, did you buy the 3m products and the cork tape at a local store or online?
i purchased them brick & morter thru an elecrtical supply house here in town... i had to special order the scotchfil & it took a couple weeks to get that in, but they had the cork tape & the vinal mastic pads in stock.
i ended up removing the 3m vinyl mastic pads from the back of the mb before installing it on the mb tray, it was just too high w/ it on there for everything to line up... i saw where someone used it to seal the back of a mb, but i guess that was an air system... i finished the job by sealing the edges w/ seal string & got a great seal. i'll post a pic of the mb sealed up tonight, won't be long now...
after i mounted the mb onto the tray i trimmed around the outside edge w/ a razor then put seal string around it.
tonight i'll be sealing the inside & outside of the cpu socket, the outside of the agp socket, and the base of any transistors that r close them with some dow corning conformal coating in a syringe
w/ the conformal coating dry, i started filling the holes in the back of the mb tray w/ cork tape. i cut little plugs then worked them into the holes in the mb tray, pressing out around the edges
i had the 3m vinyl mastic pad left over that i pulled off the back of the mb earlier before i mounted it & i didn't want to waste it
so i stuck it to the back of the mb tray & taped the edges w/ e-tape
then i carefully drilled the holes for the wb bracket w/ a 9/64" drill bit
i end up w/ a booger of insulation & metal shavings on the end of the drill bit w/ each hole drilled that i pulled off before drilling the next hole
time to start thinking about wut i'm going to do about the wb's... wut a insulation night mare... irregular surfaces, 3 barbs on the cpu block & poorly lapped as well
this is wut i used to lap my wb's... in order, 3 kinds of wet/dry sand paper 600, 1000, & 1500 grit, then i finished up with brasso.
u want to do this on a flat surface... i wet 600 grit sand paper to start... turning the wb often & applying even pressure as i made circular motions. make sure to rinse off the sand paper often while lapping... do the same with 1000 & 1500 grit... i then used an old cotton towel with brasso on it on my kitchen counter to polish the wb... finished up by polishing w/ a clean dry cloth.
this is wut the wb's looked like before i started
Well... later today i got a little unexpected visit from a Intel quality control specialist, he liked the way things were looking so far & said to keep up the good work! this is wut the wb’s looked like after i finished... i also decided to lap the bottom of the hs to my thermaltake tiger that i'll be using on the northbridge... & yes, for all that want to know that is an authentic Oscar Meyer weiner whistle!
very nice job with the mobo insulation and with those block lapping ;) keep it on!
cant wait to see the chilled system on da move :D
thanx oc_nightmare
i found that a serrated butcher knife worked best for cutting foam rubber smooth & straight... just lay the knife on the rubber & gently pull back gentley letting the blade do the work.
then i took a razor & removed the inside portion to inset the wb
i then screwed the top & bottom retaining plates together w/ the foam rubber in the middle
i used aquarium silicone to fill the top cavity around the 3 barbs... i filled this area w/ silicone until it was flush w/ the top of the upper retaining plate, then smoothed it out.
i cut a piece of 1" foam rubber to fit the top, then centered it on top of the wb barbs & pressed down hard on the foam rubber to make an impression of where the barbs were... i then carefully cut away the inner circle of ea of the 3 barb impressions
i knew i needed an air tight seal so i went to our local heat/air supply house & purchased special adhesive today made just for foam rubber... be careful when using this stuff, cause once it dries the foam rubber is permanently bonded & there is no readjusting it or taking it apart.
i placed the foam rubber cap on top of the wb & then painted the outside edges of the cap w/ the rubatex adhesive. i then wrapped the sides of the wb w/ rubatex foam tape pinching the edges of the sides & the cap together as i went, i went around 2 times... it really turned out better than i thought it would.
pic of bottom