Just a thought, what if you were to use QDC's with the tline so you could bleed the loop then remove the tline and have a QDC in its place (should be lower profile, right?)
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Just a thought, what if you were to use QDC's with the tline so you could bleed the loop then remove the tline and have a QDC in its place (should be lower profile, right?)
anyone know how you can tell if the reservoir is Rev 1.1 or Rev 1.0? I bought the RP-402X2 from someone but he doesn't know which rev it is either....
rev 1.1 has larger ddc mount locations... and its not a tight fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeper52
NK, did you post an image of how to run the 402x2 w/ a T-Line?
Also, just pondering, lets say I wanted to run serial and have a t-line extend from one of those front barb ports (to run up the front of the case like some fancy antenna) - I'm not sure which res that would extrude from. Presumably the first pumps?
wont matter where u have the tline.Quote:
Originally Posted by CedricFP
Because the point is to reduce the amount bubbles getting back into the koolance res.
So we really shouldnt call it a Tline... but more of a external bubble trap. :P
Bleeding was a nightmare, took ages to get rid of bubbles in the loop that utilises the right hand reservoir (why are the inlet and outlet positioned so high?!).
Apart from that I am bloody pleased with the rp-402x2, what a great looking reservoir - this is the first bay reservoir I've owned having previously used cyclinder ones and it's terrific once you get the bleeding out of the way.
I'm sort of struggling to visualise it, but would there be any benefit to having 2 T-lines extruding from both top ports to each res, ensuring that water level is always full in the res? Or would you simply lose flow/pressure as the first pump attempts to pump to the top of the second t-line. What I mean is, since it is res > pump > res > pump, wouldn't the second t-line just fill to the top anyway?Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
ok, 1 question, right ebfore i go ahead and fill my loop....
i put the serial pipe on the bottom outlets P1 In and P2 Out
And the acrylic isnert in the PURPLE side of the reservoir....
http://imageshack.us/m/42/1165/rp402x21.jpg
correct?
Do i remove the the seperator in the Green reservoir? or leave it in there?
and lastly... after all this, Flow will go from P1 OUT -> to my bloacks etc, and i will return it to P2 IN. Correct?
ive read both threads and am completely confused!
I got this res today. Absolutely stunning. Pictures do not do it justice....
Anyways.... bleeding this thing is a REAL pain. I understand why everyone's complainging.
I was using a single D5 on the right side (if you are facing the front of the res), filling the left size w/ a tube/funnel combination while bleeding w/ a barb with tubing on the end of this. Works well, but there's just a large amount of air in the loop that will not bleed into the res. The pump simply catches it and pushes it back through. I've been priming the pump for about an hour. I feel like I'm chasing my fail.
Loop order. Res/pump -> XSPC 320 Rad -> Cuplex Kryos HF Block -> Res/Pump.
Edit: here's a pic of the set up on the res (This is Martin's picture actually):
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...57&postcount=4
Sounds like you got everything setup right. But you do need to pull the plug out and install jsut that large stop fitting in its place.Quote:
Originally Posted by barfastic
yeah, oops. i forgot to mention that. thats done too... AWESOME!
thing is with this loop its going to be running in, everything is so tightly packed, if i fail, its gonna be almost disastrous to take apart....
If you're having issues with air in the upper reservoir, our new bleed pipe kit should make things easier. If you already have an RP-402X2 or RP-452X2 (original or revision 1.1), we're sending the kit for free through August! See here for details. Revision 1.2 reservoirs on our website now include this component.
Some pics:
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p452x2r_02.jpg
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p452x2r_p1.jpg
The new acrylic piece links the inlet and outlet together in the upper reservoir, while providing a new copper pipe inlet from the lower tank area. There is a small bleed hole in front of the inlet through the acrylic. I've tried several units now and all have bled in about 5-7 minutes with the pump on max. You should still try to fill the reservoir as full as possible, so tipping the unit so the fill port is high while filling will help. But as the manual for the bleed pipe kit will illustrate, it's fine if there's some air left.
Tim
Awesome. Way to keep making things better and that's really cool you are taking care of your customers.
Does this also apply to customers in the EU? I've got my v1.1 through a "local" reseller (ChilledPC).Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Also, what's the difference between v1.1 and v1.2? can't keep up with all this revisions LOL... :p:
As long as you've purchased from one of our official resellers (ChilledPC's included), we'll ship it international via USPS marked as "warranty/repair part" with the $13 value. That way, there shouldn't be any customs fees involved.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
The only difference is that 1.2 includes the bleed pipe. The reservoir itself is identical to 1.1.
Tim
Very good news. Free upgrade ftw.
Thanks for the reply Tim :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
I'll request the RMA now :)
Do you need a copy of the invoice or you'll contact Tom directly?
By the way, I'm impressed with the continued support for your products and your customer service :) Nothing short of excellent, thank you very much :)
:O
Awesome!
i can see why it took u guys so long.
And awesome CS giving the free replacement! :up:
Anyone know if the Rev 1.1/1.2 will fit the DDC's w/ the volume compensator (aka the DIYINHK DDC's)?
Very very cool. Koolance have been so impressive recently.
I like that bleeder, but it ruins the res's look.
I just kept priming and all the air finally bled out. I love this res. :D
yay :D submitted my RMA, hopefully will have it in time for the build to finish!
I must say that everything related to this (and D5 variant) bayrestop makes me deeply respect Koolance and their work with community. First they pulled amazing feat with two D5 in two 5.25 bays, then they listened to user wishes and made 4#2 with virtually any loop config capability, then added U-connector to ease serial one, and now after complaints of slow bleeding - this. Simply hats off.:clap:
I don't know how tall the VC is, but RP-402X2 Rev1.1 and later were altered to accept our HTS-PMP400 heat sink, which is at least 11mm thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
Paint it black. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] Synthetickiller
Thanks! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
I know this been asked many times but i just dont undestand it. What port and where i need to connect when using 2 pump in serial with 180-degree connector? separated or combined tanks? what pump to prime etc. so confusing :shrug: