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Thank you Martin. You're too kind.
I've merely provided some shots of the amount of flux dirt centrifuged from a month's old liter of PC ICE. Nothing really as great and useful as yours and the other expert's work.
Was hoping to be able to provide some useful tips and such, but all I can suggest is to use 70% alcohol (will switch to 99% industrial ethanol if my next loop still fogs after all these cleaning) and to use a torchlight to verify that the clear water coming out is truely "clear"
Not for a moment. It worked fine in blackice and swiftech's rads.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealRedRaider
Whats more, I had already flushed crap loads of the same stuff out using distilled water before actually running the rad in my loop with PC ICE.
The dirt is the same, so PC ICE is not "creating" any new kind of gunk
if PC ICE can clean this crap out totally, I'll gladly use it to flush the rad!!!
wow...just saw this post. And we thought you were MIA :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Marci
Just to clarify, I'm not trying to start a flame thread or a customer :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:ing corner for TC rads (but this topic seems to inevidently come to such an end. I whined abit too :p).
I had read your posts on this issue in the other thread and I know your stand on this issue. So no point whacking a dead horse.
I'm hoping more people would share detailed experiences of cleaning out the flux (keyword being "detailed")
By the way, if you do find it worth replying to, may I know what is the max temperature the rad can withstand?
I have 2 more of these rads (120.3 and 120.2) and would like to stick'em in an autoclave (steam sterilizer)
121 degrees celsius @ ~0.5 MPa
I'm planning to prefill the rad with distilled water, stick it in and use the liquid cycle (to prevent superheating the prefill).
From the sound it it, temperature plays a big part in cleaning out the flux residues. So why not take it beyond boiling?
Pressure should be no problem since the rads would not be capped. that leaves only temperature...kinda worried that I would melt other parts that cannot withstand >100 degrees boiling temp
On top of melting all that flux, I hope to be killing off all the tiny lifeforms in it as well :D
I don't know how all these extreme methods can be customized for home use, but I'm sure if I can prove that higher temp = faster and more effective cleaning at no risk of damaging the rad, folks will innovate ;)
Wow. IF an autoclave works, would an oven? The paint might peel, and you will want to make sure that the steam can escape easily. After that's done how will you pour out the dirty prefill? Sucka's gonna be hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Navanod
Yes, the paint is one of my primary worries now...might cook'em right off!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
The stream is free to escape through the barb holes, so no worries. And I can always wait for it to cool (or just dunk it in cool water) before handling.
I'm also worried if I might choke the autoclave up as well if too much gunk and paint falls off the rad :eek:
Looks like I'll just have to be more "discreet" :rolleyes:
I would be more concerned with the heat de-soldering the rad.
Max safe temp should be in region of 130 deg C... any hotter and de-soldering may become an issue.
Glad to see you're still around Marci!!
Well, I've been silently reading this thread... not much to add, aside from the fact that my 120.3 is due to show up at my door any day now.
Being my first crack at WC, I'm a wee intimidated.
From what I gather (correct me where I'm wrong), I need to flush the rad 10-20 times with boiling hydrochloric acid, rattle it for a few days in an ultrasonic bath, a few more days in an autoclave, wave a chicken over my head a few times, then a light spritz of lambs blood for the sake of tradition.
I will flush my rad with straight up hot tap water once it gets here, demin final rinse, and report my experience.
(btw: I *do* have access to an adequately sized ultrasonic bath.. hopefully it doesn't come to that, but please mention if this is a bad idea or not)
You forgot about sacrificing one of the small children in the neighborhood too! You'll need their wee little fingers to get into the G3/8 inlet/outlet.
Haha that's great. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluphysted
Nah just use boiling water and flush with distilled. It's worked for the majority for years. It worked for me... :)
HA-HA:ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by bluphysted
Yeah i ran tap water through mine for about a minute or two then slapped it
togehter, that was 6 months ago.
Just added my NB to my loop 2 days ago and when draining everything
looked clear.
I even used condensed water from my home a/c.
Hey, is it still necessary to flush the PA120.3? Is tap water enough, or do I need something more serious (like boiling water or vinegar solution)?
Just run the hottest tap water you can through it. I did about a 2 minute flush with hot tap water through my Thermochill. That seemed to do the trick.
Once that is done just flush it with some distilled water a few times.