hey vapor,
would it be possible that you post the excel file? i want to pick new fans and i want to isolate some of the fans to get a clearer graph
thank you
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hey vapor,
would it be possible that you post the excel file? i want to pick new fans and i want to isolate some of the fans to get a clearer graph
thank you
ribbed are closed corners..Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
Why no tests on the Delta 220cfm?
Would a Thermochill PA.120 rad, 4 medium Yate Loons, and 2 shrouds (front and back) be more efficient than a 2 medium Yates running on one side? I hear the Thermochill PA.120 doesn't change much when using higher speed fans. I already have 4 medium Yate Loons and 2 shrouds, I just want to know if I'll get anything out of it. Even a 1/2 degree is worth it = )
guys, which of these 2 120mm fans would be a better choice? Arctic Cooling AF12025L or Scythe Slipstream? planning to add fans to my case, but i want something good & silent.
I would get either a Scythe S-Flex SFF21E, a Yate Loon D12SL 1000 or an Aerocool Turbine 1000. All three are extremely silent and the Yate Loon is extremely cheap too.
However, if you're definitely deciding between those two, I would opt for the Scythe Slip Stream.
@Bad213Boy, you just need the shroud on the pull side. so 2 push fans = rad = shroud = pull fans... this is the most efficient use of shroud... shroud on push side is just wasting space...
@emoners Case fan Vertical orientation, cheapest is yate loon medium speed. or slip streams also good for case fans only.
then next choice for me is SFlex-F: good for all orientation case fan, also good radiator fan...
Comparing simple paper test with AF12025 VS Yate loon Low speed, the yates pushes farther. both are silent though.
if you're looking for Radiator Fan, Look for Scythe Ultra Kazes (38mm thick) Slip streams are weak rad fans.
This only applies to systems where performance is limited by block performance rather than radiator dissipation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
This is just a copy and paste from the original thread in the Air Cooling section. Modern HSFs don't have considerable scaling with increased airflow.Quote:
Originally Posted by initialised
thnaks septim! :)
This is a common misconception due to over generalisation of testing methods. Modern heat sink and fan coolers behave as they always have done, for a given wattage the temperature of the cooled device falls with airflow until the minimum thermal gradient between air and device is achieved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Most modern air coolers aren't heat sinks, they are heat pipe based coolers (HPC). So they cannot be expected to behave in the same way unless they are operating outside of their thermal window. When a heat pipe cooler is operating within it's thermal window the temperature of the device it is cooling will be relatively constant as a function of air flow through the radiator at a given wattage.
Heat pipes are evaporative coolers so increasing airflow through the radiator will not reduce the temperature at the evaporator (Tevap) below the evaporate's boiling point (Tboil). However, as airflow through the radiator increases the thermal resistance of the heat pipe reduces meaning that the system can maintain a higher thermal load (wattage) at it's evaporate's boiling point since a higher rate of condensation (and therefore evaporation) is possible. Heat pipes are either airflow limited (Trad>Tboil) or coolant flow limited (Tevap<Tboil) at either extreme the system will behave like a solid heat sink.
I'm newbie here,and just a little confuse, so many argument about this thread, just got my thermochill 3 days ago, but i'm not buy the fan yet, so which is the best fan composition for the 120.3 ?
1. 3 pull fans --- shroud -- rad -- 3 push fan or
2. rad --- 3 counterclock fan -- 3 push fan
Thx all, I wish i get the answer
my rad position is horizontal, is that good if I use aerocool extreme turbine led fan, for pull and push ?
horizontal rad position, cheapest would be some Yate Loon Medium speed fans... on pull. and you mount it : pull fans = shroud = rad. (you dont really need the push fans...)
I don't believe having fans on both sides of the radiator will help all that much. Anyone want to correct me on that and provide a reason for it? Hmmm
is that true ? is it oke with aerocool xtreme turbine ? with 89 CFM and +/- 1800 Rpm, I like the white led on the fan :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Matched fans in push-pull help to prevent back flow and ensure that all the air flows through the radiator and can be quieter. However, it's not necessary unless your system is radiator limited.Quote:
Originally Posted by fungry
How about vertical position ? behind back panelQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
if only thos san ace's where easyer to get hold of :(
Any word on the AC Ryan fans performance? Also, who easy is it so take apart some of these fans to paint them?
I have a bunch of the 1011's laying around, so I am going to use them on my 2 MCR220's, is it better to do a push/pull with them or just a pull or just a push?
Thanks,
Utnorris
just use fans on pull... (with shroud is optional, but it does help net you even as little as 1 to 2C temp drop, is good enough for me...)
vertical mount, cheapest still yateloon medium speed fans...
*also with regards horizontal mount, the yate loon fans doesn't last long dew to the "sleeve bearing grind"
so my next suggestion for all around fans would be the SFlex-F and those San Aces 1011(if you can find em...)
@initialised: "Matched fans in push-pull help to prevent back flow and ensure that all the air flows through the radiator and can be quieter." (i'll have to check this out for myself, some use for extra fans lying around...)
Quick question everyone, the San 1011 fans are 3 wire fans, am I correct that the wires are as follows:
Yellow - RPM
Black - ground
red - Positive (connect to yellow on PSU side and it's 12v, connect to red on PSU side and it's 5v)
Second assumption is that at 5v these are pulling less than .25amps each since they pull .52amps at 12v.
Is there a way to wire them at 7v?
Sorry, I tried to do some research but I couldn't confirm the yellow RPM wire.
Thanks,
Utnorris
I figured out the 7v, I was working from the side of the fan and should have been working from the side of the PSU, brainfart. Anyway, still need an answer on the amperage.
Thanks,
Utnorris