MAN...DON'T!...buy the thermalright Ultra Extreme heatsink and a panaflo 2700 rpm fan...it is a no-brainer with spending $100 versus $400.Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] hipno650
all you have to do with the TRUE is lap the base to get rid of machine grooves...that will give you about 5C cooler temps.
here's an update on the elite.
one draw back to the elite is the TEC's run at minimal power outside of windows (software in windows can put the TEC's to 100%)...so...if you are installing the OS or in the bios, you are not get getting very much chilled water so the cpu temps are going to rise considerably...if you are doing high overclocks with high vcore, WATCH OUT!
that said, there is a way to help yourself out if you are installing windows or working in DOS...you can uplug the sensor cable to the MTEC control module coming from the TEC...doing that action will put the TEC's to full, 100% power.
the other thing i did was replace the Panaflo 2500 rpm fan with the panaflo 2700 rpm fan which can be run off the PSU at 100% rpm, run it off a fan controller or run it off a 3 prong mobo fan header...i have a 3 prong fan header plug coming from my 2.7K fan and i have the IP35 Pro which can adjust the fan headers to work at a voltage range....the MTEC module gets behind the heat curve if you have the fan plugged into the control module...i rather let the mobo adjust the fan based on my setting not coolit's settings built into the control module.
the Elite does cool very well at idle but it does strain under heavy overclock...i am about even with my TRUE heatsink for heat extraction when loading all four cores up with wPrime 1024M stability bench.
SO...if your an "Idle" type puter user, never to stress the cpu, then, the elite would be a good fit if you are looking for very low idle cpu temps....the only thing is the COST of this unit, approximately $400!:eek:
i'll post a picture of the unit later on this evening....everything is on a open bench.
u guys see the size if that thing, and :banana::banana::banana::banana: its ugly. id never put that in my case. these products are for n00bs. grab a tec plate and an IFX-14 and uve got ur self a cheap tec kit that will out perform this thing anyday.
not any uglier than having water lines coming out of the rear of the case to a gigantic radiator that has, count them, three 120mm fans on them.;)
Its a stupid cooler. The mtec controller fried the fan on my elite
and the normal freezone.
difference with freezone and elite around 7-10C.
Ace, so even if the proc is at default clocks but at load, the temps are still good? or if the proc is OCed but is idling, still good?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Seriously if you are this far into cost, to me it almost makes more sense to go for a Boreas bare (which you can use with your own pump and your own blocks) and give it a go. Yeah, more $ but the power is a lot closer to what you'll really need to cool a quad properly. But then you begin to realize that a proper amt of TEC power and the $ for it are things that turn most folks away from this technology.
It does have it's place. It takes up less space than equivalent performing water cooling would. BUT to do it properly (cooling a quad well not just a little bit) you really do up the investment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cstkl1
aaah, man with experience!;)
my workaround for the fan is using one of my fan headers on my Abit IP35 Pro...all six fan headers are controlled by abit's Uguru technology...it's nice; i can set the fan speeds in windows to almost any speed range i want by setting the voltage range and i can select it to sense from the cpu, pwm or system temps.
if you are living in a high heat, high humidity area without any AC, then this might be the better choice; although, you might get sweating to set up on the two water blocks which are attached to the cold side of the TEC's...the hot side of the TEC's are attached to the air radiator.Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
the 2 waterblocks do get fairly cold to the touch when at 100% power in an idle condition...coolit's software said at one time the coolant temp was at 20C but to the touch, the block felt like 10C or colder...the sensor is attached on the outside of one of the blocks so it could be reading it incorrectly.
i did not do an earlier comparison for stock speed at idle and load conditions between the Elite and the TRUE...i will do a stock speed check and post the pictures to show coretemp for idle and load at 100% TEC power, just to give you an idea of cooling potential if you stayed at stock speeds.
EDIT:...the dts sensors on this processor do not give me a comfy feeling...notice how the sensor on core #0 is staying at 31C while the other three are much lower with the coolant temp saying it is 14C...the bloc feels way colder than 14C.
1st image is at idle and 2nd image is at wPrime load using the 1024M stability test.
Hmm..
Ace: I had their first one as I mentioned earlier, it was no good over other TEC/low WC units or even over many air units. But if you can run 3.5GHz idle/P95/OCT load I can tell you if theres something wrong with your unit/fix/sensors or not since I'm aware what it gets with 130W TDP QX6700 at 3.4GHz, and Penryn is supposed to be much cooler with less leakage.
First of all, before you do any comparisons, we need to get Penryn crocked up temperature readings sorted. I'm looking at your idle 3GHz here, what is the ambient heatsink temp please and what are the idle TRUE temps/volts?
Also, can you put some more stress on it to see load temps? Like Systools 16M for instance.
Looking at that, its saying, a 130W TDP processor and an air heastink/fan vs a 250W rated cooling unit both dissipate the heat just as effectively until you oc. That said, if you top the TDP capacity of the Coolit unit, it won't be able to cool the CPU. Hence, try backing down to stay near 250W (rated)
If for instance, if the QX is TDP 130W at 1.1V 3GHz, then this should be the voltage/frequency needed to achieve the max.250W rated heat load possible by the Coolit, no more;
130 x (3562/3000) x (1.4²/1.1²) = 250
i.e. 3.56GHz @ 1.4V.
If you test that, the results would be interesting and much more accurate compared to the TRUE since it's within the Coolit specified limit.
hmmm 35-26-25-36c at load...not bad...
that is at stock speed and using only 1.15 for vcore...actually, the vcore can be set to 1.04v and still work nicely on the 9650...it just does not overclock very well since it does have a very low "VID"!Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
lets put it this way...the cooit Elite is a nicely designed piece of hardware for about $400 that can be replaced by Thermal Right's Ultra Extreme with a very good panaflo 2.7K fan attached to it...even the Elite uses a Panaflo 2.5K fan to cool the air/heat exchanger....the TRUE heatsink can keep up with the Elite and possibly do better depending on the case cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by KTE
I'll have my Elite in a few days, upgraded from the first generation of the Freezone. Hopefully shave off a few more degrees on my QX6800 ;)
Ace: I already know this but I'm not interested in TRUE which everyone knows. I'm only interested in a test of the Freezone Elite within the manufacturer specified limits of 250W TDP. Beyond that it cannot handle as Coolit says. 250W TDP Coolit vs TRUE temps idle/load is all that interests me in seeing its efficiency at advertised specs. The Elite should beat the TRUE at below 250W TDP by quite a margin if its an efficient design.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
i'll have to study up on the TDP specs so i can talk about it...all i can say that it is not hacking it...it is like the OCZ hype on the new designed air cooler that has internal water cooling...i haven't seen it hit the street yet but i read that it was suppose to dissipate 400W's of thermal heat...never believed it!...it is all part of the marketing hype that corporations feed us to make us believe their products are the one to buy!Quote:
Originally Posted by KTE
why don't you enlighten me on how to compute the TDP?:shrug:
Np. Ygpm. ;)
For 350 you can build a pretty sweet water cooling steup. Heck, you could add in a bigger and better TEC water chiller as well. Though i can see how ease of installation and performance demand premiums. Still, 350 bucks?
I dunno, its a pretty decent setup, besides this is for people who don't know how/don't want to build their own setup.
For what it offers, I think its a pretty nice product, though I myself am building a phase change unit as I think that's where the real performance will be at
hey AliG and fragmasterMax, couldn't agree with you more on what you say!...i wanted to see, explore this contraption since i did not want to get into Vapo or any large water setup...some guys think that i am trying to endorse this product...FAR FROM IT!:)
i'm just posting my results to sway any other people from making the mistake of spending approximately $400 on this...it is a complete waste of money, IMO...if you looked into my parts closet, you will find MORE stuff that i wasted my good money on.:D
Yah, it's so easy to make a water chiller from a hacked mini fridge for 20 bucks at a local junkyard (free if you live in a college town around the summer).Quote:
Originally Posted by AliG
ACE-a-Rule, - Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it looks and performs pretty well, if they could mass produce these and bring the price down (to that of a mini fridge) there business would go through the roof.
this thing handles about 1000 mhz over stock speed decently but that is it...i agree, way to expensive...if it was $200, maybe a decent deal but for less than a $100, the TRUE heatsink is a GREAT air cooling heatsink!Quote:
Originally Posted by fragmasterMax
Yey, another vacuum cleaner, my mom's gonna be so happy...