Just blow air on it, or dust it with the cloth and remove the junk from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nealh
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Just blow air on it, or dust it with the cloth and remove the junk from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nealh
Can I dip the cpu in acetone? I think I ended up getting a bunch of particles under the IHS. How should I get them out. Quick dip in acetone?Quote:
Originally Posted by BulldogPO
acetone evaporates very quickly, even more so if you blow on it. so i guess it could be ok.
the acetone i have is 100% but check to make sure yours is not a solution of other chemicals
perhaps its worth taking the chip to your local garage where they have a compressor that can pump your tyres up, give it a blast with that, should lift any particles lodged in there
thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by annaconda
hey, isn't there anything on the processor that can be damaged by this chemical?
I spent 8 years building electronics for Celestica and all we ever used on the line for cleaning IC's was IPA (Iso-Propyl Alcohol).
Dries real quick and if it drys without leaving a mark then it's as clean as your gonna get.
And how exactly do you think Intel is going to determine that you overclocked your CPU ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by annaconda
I personally would never lap a retail chip. I have lapped many engineering samples but on retail chips its not worth voiding the warranty. If you have a hot chip sell it on ebay and try again.
Thats just my 2 cents :)
i can agree with what you say but if you run the chip for a few months then the chances of it dying are minimal. intel are quite reliable from experience & what i've read
then, given the overclocking potentinal and obvious gains from lapping are deffinately worth considering.
as for chips on ebay, keep your witts about as price & performance is a lottery. many people off their un-over-clockable chips and others fetch stupid money because the seller claims massive overclocking potential. for example i was watching a Q6600 that went for far more than retail simply because the guy claimed it overclocked to 4ghz. if it did, why he'd sell such a wonderful chip is beyond me
i am also planning to lap mine: I ordered 400/600/800/1000, but too bad they dont have something between 1000-2000 but they got instead3200/3600/4000/6000/8000/10000 grits, so i want to know if any any grit above 1000 would help, or should I get some 3200? or is not neccasarely?
Its a dutch store but they ship worldwide: http://shop.modelbrouwers.nl/catalog...age=en&sort=2a
800 would be more than sufficient. You have to understand that you're goal when your lapping is not to make it shiny, it's to make it flat. Highly misunderstood by many. People go up to 2000 or so grit but thermal gain is very minimal that it doesn't make 1 degree of a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by mc2k
You don;t need that many different ones. All you can use like Alik said 800, but i would recommend 400 / 800 / 1000, and if you want mirror finish i would skip 1000 and get 1500.Quote:
Originally Posted by mc2k
3200/3600/4000 they are useless. But hey it is your choice if you want go for it, i would love to see the results with any one of those sheets.
yea i ordered alrdy 400/600/800/1000 , so that would do thnx
i lapped mine with just a single piece of 2400 silicon carbide in a circular motion
i didnt see the point in eroding layers with course stuff then smoothing .... and then being concerned about enough pressure on mounting
here's my results.... got 19 degrees idle @ stock speeds, 25 @ 3.2ghz
http://www.gwynfryn.eclipse.co.uk/hs1.jpg
http://www.gwynfryn.eclipse.co.uk/hs2.jpg
great work mate.. that heatsink must have been a real pain in the arse to lap :up:
http://www.gwynfryn.eclipse.co.uk/hs2.jpg
I lapped by b3 and temps dropped 10~12ºC per core on prime, but idle didn't dropped so much...
Later I post pics...
Thanks for the tips!
Good work KeyZersoz3, any pictures.
Lapped a G0 to 1500 grit. Temperature drop is noticeable.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3...ecustomiy9.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5...ecustomqq2.jpg
nice lap on the cpu. i lapped mine to the point where the silver was smooth and reflective. it was my first attempt at lapping a cpu and was paranoid about killing it
i keep promising i will take it out and lap down to the copper.
@ Solarfall - it was actually, its top heavy and meant i couldnt go too fast or apply too little pressure. took a while to do but its worth it. my arms were killing me afterwards
Just ordered Yate Loon DSH-12, TRUE, and some MX-2. Should have some good temperatures. Right now I'm using some crappy zalman white thermal paste. Also purchased some isopropyl 91%. Finally some 3m wetordry from a local auto store - 220,400,800,1000,2000 grit for $8.50 :D
just lap it with the 2000. i did after reading a couple of guides.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
many say you need to use more course stuff first - you dont. think about it, after sanding away for some time, you'll be switching to 2000 paper to smooth a surface several layers deep
and considering your getting the TRUE you will no doubt have concerns about mounting pressure, so the last thing you want to do is shave several layers off your CPU.
im still in 2 minds at which is the best technique for lapping though. there's straight, circular or figure or 8. i did circular but see advantages to all, and the disadvantages to each arent a concern aslong as you clean it regularly.
Lapped my cpu and 9500 to 2000grit yesterday and temps went up 3C. Then used AS5 and went back to normal.
There is so much folklore surrounding this topic. Of course it helps to improve surface contact between a heatsink and a processor or IHS. The reason one might use course paper and graduate to finer grit little by little is simple -- it saves time. There is no reason to use a course grit unless there are significant irregularities in the surface.
Do NOT use acetone on any electronics. There is a good chance you will dissolve something dear to a circuit :eek: Isopropanol from the drug store is fine. (180 proof vodka (which is ethanol) will also work.) There are a number of aerosol and non-areosol electronic cleaners around as well. They used to be primarily freon-based, but are now environmentally friendly. Their biggest advantage over isopropanol is ease of application and getting into tight spots.
One more thing -- lighting incense always helps!
Welcome to XS :welcome:
I'm still confused about my temperatures.
You make sure do the light test on both CPU and HS to make sure contact is proper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alik4041
Thanks for the advice. It would make sense if contact is not being made properly because after as5, temps went down. I'll wait until I receive my TRUE. Should be comming soon from Petra's. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by annaconda