Project Rubik's (It's a cube geddit ?)

Hi Guys,

Last one for the night - little picture of the mounted stealths with superglued mini heat sinks (mc21's).

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...serialNumber=1

Chris

dude, lovely unit and lovely daughter :toast:

Hey Chris, do you 5mm acrylic would be strong enough to hold an RD-30 mounted vertically (so that inlet would face up, and outlet would be horizontal with the case floor)?

Should I be wary of such a mounting option due to vibrational noises? strength of the acrylic?

I'm breaking down my loop again and would like to find a "sexier" way to mount it without having to resort to excessive tube lengths to get it routed correctly.

Wow, why haven't I looked at this yet? :eek:

Looking very nice! I really like the CD drive switch, And the wiring on the radiator fans. I'll have to do some of that once I finish making all the cuts in my project. :rolleyes:

One question- What did you make the T-line temperature monitors from? I was thinking of making one using a T-line, Temp probe, And a good helping of silicone caulking.

Technically its quite strong and the pump mounted on it should be fine. How would you attach the acrylic mount though ? I can't see anywhere in my horizons it would fit.

Just filled my loops last night BTW and doing some final leak testing before switching on the fella.

The only thing left to do is power up the fans and put in the temp sensors.

Chris

Here is the link to the temp sensor stuff

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...3&postcount=53

In fact I will copy it in here. Here you go.

Just did a couple of the MCubed waterproof sensors into a T. Here are some pics. Took quite a while to get the epoxy right - did it in layers. Also used about 2 inches of tubing on the T also.

Starting ingredients

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=293


First application of epoxy - note no tube at this point

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=295


The epoxy is all done now.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=297


The finished product tidied up with a little sleeving and heatshrink.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=301


Chris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phcjpp

Technically its quite strong and the pump mounted on it should be fine. How would you attach the acrylic mount though ? I can't see anywhere in my horizons it would fit.

Just filled my loops last night BTW and doing some final leak testing before switching on the fella.

The only thing left to do is power up the fans and put in the temp sensors.

Chris

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I was planning on doing a free standing plate similar to your EK reservoir mounting plate. I'd use two acrylic piates and glue them together. I'd drill into the vertical plate and mount the RD-30 on its back. I'm just hoping the plate will hold and vibrational noises won't be amplified.

looking great... I like the BigNg mount you did.

I need to do that as well in my TT Mozart TX... first need to buy the dam thing if performance-pcs ever gets them back in stock

Not really getting any vibrations - I would worry about the 90 degree join between acrylic plates - you would need something much stronger than I did.

I suggest using some 1.5 inch square acrylic blocks and bolting through them from each peice of acrylic. that should hold the 90 degree join well.

Hobby shops have that sort of thing.

http://www.ema-models.co.uk/shop/pro...ge-CAC-40.html

Good store.

Chris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phcjpp

Not really getting any vibrations - I would worry about the 90 degree join between acrylic plates - you would need something much stronger than I did.

I suggest using some 1.5 inch square acrylic blocks and bolting through them from each peice of acrylic. that should hold the 90 degree join well.

Hobby shops have that sort of thing.

http://www.ema-models.co.uk/shop/pro...ge-CAC-40.html

Good store.

Chris

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Hmm.. I can't quite mentally picture what you're describing.

Like this

Chris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phcjpp

Like this

Chris

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Great artwork. Thanks!

Aaaaaahh I hate evga officially. I have never had so much trouble with a motherboard in my life.

I now have a motherboard that has a corrupt bios and just beeps at me.

Grrrrrrr. What a pile of steaming cra*.

You might gather I tried to install vista last night. Lost count of the BSOD's and random reboots.

This has got to be the worst night of computing ever.

Anyway have ordered super cheap new psu / video / ram / floppy to see if I can't get the mobo back to life on the workench so to speak.

:mad: :mad: :mad:
Chris

Well hi guys. Long time no speak. Most of the delay has been down to me having to RMA my motherboard. Anyway the replacement will be with me in a few days so I can get back to business. I have not been idle however and I had an idea about quick-connectors. I wanted to be able to remove the motherboard tray without dimantling the loop. So here we have my solution. 2 quick connect values per loop, one in and one out.

The items in question

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...serialNumber=1

how they connect

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...serialNumber=1

idea of size - they are not small

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...serialNumber=1

the first set (loop 2 graphics) installed

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...serialNumber=1

please note not tightened yet.

Thought this might appeal to some of you. I don't think they will restrict flow too much. And they auto seal - very nice.

Chris

I'm surprised you'd use them although your Iwaki might be able to power through it. I removed the QD's from the loop due to the rather large pressure drop. Only the plastic Colder QC's seem to make sizes large enough to minimize the PD, but they just ended up being too bulky.

These are big fellows. Looking through them the diameter seems to be the same as the tube. Quite bulky but I think the way I am mounting them should make it all fit and as you say 2 iwakis makes for some serious grunt. It also makes putting togethter the rig a damn site easier.

Chris

That will brutally slaughter your flow. The water has to pass through what looks like a 3mm outlet on the male connector. Even the RD30 will struggle badly

you should return your stealths they have announced stealth rev 2 is coming and they seem to work much better

Quote:

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Originally Posted by louie101086

you should return your stealths they have announced stealth rev 2 is coming and they seem to work much better

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+1:up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hecktic

looking great... I like the BigNg mount you did.

I need to do that as well in my TT Mozart TX... first need to buy the dam thing if performance-pcs ever gets them back in stock

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Just said no to one at half price.
It's a great case if you don't mind being tied into that type and size rads. I have Thermochills.

@sick_g4m3r

I don't think so - its much wider than that - nearer 10 mm than 3mm. These things are massive. The bore is the same as the 1/2" barbs when you look closely. They are 2 inches across at one point to give you some idea how big. That whole black bit depresses upon connection.


@louie101086

Thanks for the heads up on the stealths.

Chris

Wow, very impressive! :toast:

~subscribed~

phcjpp please can you explain your BigNG etc setup.
e.g how many fans per channel etc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jabski

phcjpp please can you explain your BigNG etc setup.
e.g how many fans per channel etc

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3 fans per channel at most - sometimes 2 - sometimes 1. I have

3 on a rad
2 on a rad
2 on lid
2 on lid
1 at back

so thats 5 fan headers - 4 on the bigng one onto the mini ng. The sensorbus lets you shutdown the pc so thats why its there.

Chris