That's what I did.
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In that case, I'll be waiting (im)patiently for your forthcoming numbers, nikhsub1.:up:
anybody help me?
bump... would also like to see results of the bow now from the OP
RESULTS ARE HERE: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=151781
Very intersting. So where can you get all of the supplies to mod the Fuzion.
Well, u need a nozzle, I used the ones supplied by dtek, they were prototypes at the time. 4.5mm is the way to go but IDK where you would get it at this point, they should have been out long ago. For the bow of the fuzion, I used an ek barb oring between top and mid plate, see first post for pics.
I made a few nozzles for mine also, first a smaller diameter circle, then a slot, and finally a showerhead. I just made them out of some nylon kitchen cabinet inserts that came with some hinges...I just had to sand them down a little bit to get them to fit in then I used a drill press and dremel to make the nozzle types.
I ended up liking the showerhead style best...lower restriction and it had the best performance from what I could tell on my few tests. I think I gained about 1C with the small circular nozzle and 2C with the showerhead style.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ithNozzleb.jpg
Slot
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...NozzleSlot.jpg
Showerhead
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...Nozzle7noz.jpg
I also bowed my fuzion with really good results, but I made my washer with some thin plastic I had lying around:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...BowWasher2.jpg
Here it is with the washer in place, I just used a small amount of "Yamalube" to adhere it in place before installing the top. Overall I think I gained at least 3C with the bow...very much worth the effort.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...nBowWasher.jpg
hey martin..I would bet others would pay for your handy work....
How the feck do you mount the bigger O-ring on the Apogee GT?
I tried today and utterly failed, I had to assemble it with the original O-ring instead :(
The ring pops out of the groove, and I do not have 25 fingers :(
I put the bigger o-ring on the Apogee this weekend. It really is a pain in the arse. You kind of have to force it by screwing in a corner, then another corner, then another until you have all the corners screwed in and then you tighten each corner slowly so there's even pressure on all sides. Anyway, that's what I had to do.
Okay... Already used a Fusion on my gaming rig... Just purchased a GTX for my server --- so:
Where do I buy this larger oRing??? It's not in the box like stated earlier... Need one asap so who do I give my money too>>>?
Please Help Thanx!!!!
BRY
Thanks for the suggestions guys, but it wouldn't pencil out for money. As a hobby for fun it's all good, but I've also learned that everytime I've tried to turn a hobby into profit the fun dissappears..:shrug:
I probably spent over an hour making just one nozzle. If I figured how much money I could have made at work, I probably have more money invested in my nozzle than I do the block itself...but that's not what it's all about. It's all about customizing and tinkering, which is cheap recreation..:D
Thought I would resurrect the thread, has good info. :D
Utnorris
Hopefully someone with some knowledge still reads this thread. Anyway, I bowed my Apogee GT using the supplied o-ring, I am running into two problems currently and need some suggestions.
1 - I have remounted the water block twice and still I get 3 cores at one temp and 1 five degrees higher. I tried adjusting the screws to see if I could change the spread and that didn't work, so any thoughts?
2 - I noticed when I was remounting it the Artic Silver was for the most part spread down the middle from top to bottom with very little on the outside, it would almost seem as though my chip was bowed downward, but since I lapped it and verified it was truly flat I know this isn't the case. From the looks of it I would assume that the waterblock is bowed oppisite to what it should be. Is this possible? I didn't lap it before bowing it so it just has the same finish it came with which is hard to verify that it was bowed afterwards. The mount that came with the waterblock is not the type that has springs, instead it has screws that screw into the backplate. Should I swap this out with screws that mount from behind the MB and use springs with nuts to hold it down? If so, how? Or should I just get a different waterblock like the EK?
Here is a link to the mounting instructions so you can see what I am talking about when I say it doesn't use springs:
http://swiftech.com/products/install...75bckplate.pdf
Thanks,
Utnorris
Are you using coretemp or TAT?
TAT seems to have a bigger differential between cores and I believe something is wierd with it. When I log temps with TAT I get an average of 3 degrees difference just between two cores....but notice how this 3 degrees difference swaps places in the middle of this test.
http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/1...lfontz7en1.jpg
I would hold much trust in differential between cores, actually I wouldn't trust TAT or Coretemp unless you log it and average at least 10 minutes worth of logged data....
Here is another test with coretemp and TAT logging at the same time with the same loading.
Full Test:
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1...retemp1tk6.png
Zoom on a small piece of time:
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2...retemp2wl6.png
Coretemp consistently had more consistency between cores, yet they are supposedly reading from the same sensors..:shrug:
This is why I want to build my own die simulator with more accurate sensors. I just don't trust in the internal processor sensors.. I went to all this effort to get .01C relative accuracy on my crystalfontz sensors only to see TAT and Coretemp bouncing around by 3 or more:(
Bowing probably does make mounting consistency lower especially for quads, but I wouldn't let the internal processor sensors worry you too much about differential between cores..