stained tubing..

Behold the awesome clarity of 2075!

(2075 vs Clearflex)
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5...arflex1.th.jpghttp://img153.imageshack.us/img153/3...arflex2.th.jpghttp://img153.imageshack.us/img153/9...arflex3.th.jpg
Sorry, my main pc with camera software is out of commission, until I get CLEAR TUBING TO REDO MY LOOP. Will get a pic up soon... I just wanted to make sure no one else makes the mistake of buying Tygon 2075. What a joke and a waste of money!!! This stuff is at best translucent. Bought it from McMaster.

My 12' of 2275 arrived today, it's not nearly as clear as 3603 but if it has the longevity claimed then it's what I'm looking for. It's also quite a bit stiffer than 3603, I think people get better bends out of 3603 than they will with this stuff.

I'll get pics up soon and when I rebuild my loop (pending metalwork) I'll post filled pix.

@serial- it feels like it probably is polyurethane, I don't have the lab equipment to determine it's makeup though. ...And no, before you ask, I'm not going to go dunk it in acetone to satisfy your curiosity. You can buy some and do that test your self ;)

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Originally Posted by halo112358

My 12' of 2275 arrived today, it's not nearly as clear as 3603 but if it has the longevity claimed then it's what I'm looking for. It's also quite a bit stiffer than 3603, I think people get better bends out of 3603 than they will with this stuff.

I'll get pics up soon and when I rebuild my loop (pending metalwork) I'll post filled pix.

@serial- it feels like it probably is polyurethane, I don't have the lab equipment to determine it's makeup though. ...And no, before you ask, I'm not going to go dunk it in acetone to satisfy your curiosity. You can buy some and do that test your self ;)

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Its bend radius is extremely good ;) its stiff (should be) but it will make the same bends.
And PUR has worse clarity than PVC tubing but with all the dye people use does it matter?
Oh also, Marci got news that 2075 is the best tubing for watercooling ;) polyurethane as well...

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Originally Posted by halo112358

My 12' of 2275 arrived today, it's not nearly as clear as 3603 but if it has the longevity claimed then it's what I'm looking for. It's also quite a bit stiffer than 3603, I think people get better bends out of 3603 than they will with this stuff.

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I don't know how the 2275 compares to the 2075, but what's the point? If you are worrying about clouding and it looks horribly cloudy from the start, what are you accomplishing? The stuff I received from McMaster kinks more easily and scuffs more easily. Unless the 2275 is totally different, don't defend it just because you bought it... It's overpriced junk!

Now this... this is great! 7/16 x 11/16" Tygon. Easily slips over barbs with heated water and the thicker sidewalls make it kink far less than the Clearfex I was using before. Has the best minimum bend radius and does not look clunky in a small case. This plus smooth band belt clamps and perfect seal barbs = no worries whatsoever about leaking. Honestly, I think this is the ideal size.

If it clouds... oh well.

Well, I bought myself some Tygon 2075 and let's just say Wicked's pics aren't an exaggeration. It's a milky white color and as stiff as my pecker in a Vegas strip club.

I'll be using it just because I paid $50 for it but I'm not at all pleased with the aesthetics of it. Why pay 50% more for tubing that doesn't cloud when it looks clouded already?

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Originally Posted by ranker

Well, I bought myself some Tygon 2075 and let's just say Wicked's pics aren't an exaggeration. It's a milky white color and as stiff as my pecker in a Vegas strip club.

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Nice analogy...LOL

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Originally Posted by ranker

I'll be using it just because I paid $50 for it but I'm not at all pleased with the aesthetics of it. Why pay 50% more for tubing that doesn't cloud when it looks clouded already?

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Good question. I'm going to stick with the masterkleer myself.

I have a background in microbiology. I developed vaccines for five years for a living before my trek back into computers. I've grown my share of bacteria and cell culture. In a lab or in production, everything is sterilized prior to use. My feeling is that the only way to keep the liquid clear is start with sterile tubing and sterile rad etc and then use sterile techniques to add the water. In bio-development, we autoclaved everything and what we couldn't autoclave, we used a strong acid solution to sterilize the components.

Obviously most people don't have access to this kind of equipment, but I'm thinking if we flushed the system with something like parvosol first. We used an acid solution in the lab since it was easy enough to dilute and didn't risk killing the next thing we did want to grow. In this case, we could use something pretty toxic to anything. I'd be interested in whether this stuff would make for a good coolant. Do these ingredients look corrosive? If you didn't use the disinfectant to cool with, then you'd have to flush and fill the system with sterile water.

Active Ingredient(s):
n-Alkyl (60% C14, 30% C16, 5% C12, 5% C18) dimethyl benzyl ammonium chlorides 0.105%
n-Alkyl (68% C12, 32% C14) dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chlorides 0.105%
Inert Ingredients 99.790%
Total 100.000

http://www.pbsanimalhealth.com/cgi-l...html?E+scstore

It's actually not a bad color either.

On a side note, I'd be careful with cleaning your loops. If there are bugs growing in your loop, you should probably treat them as if they could hurt you.
Last edited by dem1an : Today at 01:16 PM.

I'm still with R3603. I have now reverted to plain distilled with two drops of iodine. I flush every month and it costs me less than a dollar to refill heh. The tubes have been there for 6 months now, but are no more cloudy than that new 2075 heh My case allows almost no light in.

As I have the camera working for once...

Compare Tt green coolant: two different bottles of coolant, what's the difference?

One bottle contains much darker, more opaque liquid than the other. Different formula? Nope, they're both the same stuff, but one is diluted: the dark one!

The dark one is just coolant that I drained from my old loop - it's actually got a lot of pure distilled water in it, so when it went into the loop, it was actually lighter than the one on the left, but now it's darker.

why is it so much darker :confused:

And now I feel the need to ask a simple question? (Sorry if it has been answered already). Does the clouding affect performance? I took out a short piece of Tygon from one of my 3 loops today that was cloudy and I found that if we have a way to scrab the white :banana::banana::banana::banana: it will go off. I think I will try cleaning it but its not convenient at all so I might go the drainging method way too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WiCKeD

I don't know how the 2275 compares to the 2075, but what's the point? If you are worrying about clouding and it looks horribly cloudy from the start, what are you accomplishing? The stuff I received from McMaster kinks more easily and scuffs more easily. Unless the 2275 is totally different, don't defend it just because you bought it... It's overpriced junk!

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Hmm, I think you're misreading what I said. I'm not really worried about clouding, I'm more concerned that the white crud indicates some sort of breakdown of the tubing AND that the white gunk people are finding in high restriction blocks (clogged storm Jets, etc..) is related.

Really I'm just looking for something that's durable and works well. 3603 seems to work alright for me so far, and I'll try 2275 next... :stick:

edit: if you're not happy with a product you bought then send it back, don't bash me just because you bought it :wink:

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Originally Posted by dinos22

why is it so much darker :confused:

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I think the implication is that whatever clouds the tubing is coming out into the coolant, that would also explain the gunk in clogged blocks.

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Originally Posted by halo112358

I think the implication is that whatever clouds the tubing is coming out into the coolant, that would also explain the gunk in clogged blocks.

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I assumed the cloudiness was from cell growth. I didn't think about it being a breakdown of the tubing. Does the cloudy coolant have a new funky odor? Cloudiness due to bacterial growth is usually pretty rank.

There isn't much of an odor from the old coolant, it still smells mainly of glycol. Viewed close up you can make out some larger 'floaters' that look very much like bacterial slime colonies. Whatever is growing in there is tolerant to a fair percentage of Glycol.

A tiny amount of the grot might be from nickel oxide (from the plating on the barbs), and there could be some radiator flux in there too. It's not like any number of flushes are going to get it all out - but it's hard to imagine either of those things contributing that much cloud.

Just a theory, but with pure distilled "a few drops" of biocide aren't going to do anything worth mentioning to stop bacterial growth: these bugs are hard as nails.

I personally like the rigidity compared to 3603. 3603 flattens easily and sags under the weight of a full loop. I got 2075/2275 a long time ago and liked it better but never posted it as the best new tubing because I knew most wcers wouldn't like it. to niksub (sp), for example, 3603 doesn't plumb like a wet noodle enough for him, he needs even softer stuff.

and of course it isn't as clear from the factory. personally, if looks are the most important, i think the cheap vinyl stuff from home depot is the clearest. for the first month (week?), at least. this stuff is probably best long term, but if long term is such an issue then you may as well get that stuff they use the apple g5 systems (billa mentioned it once).

sorry, guys, but the tubing issue is far from solved.

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Originally Posted by Fossil

Just a theory, but with pure distilled "a few drops" of biocide aren't going to do anything worth mentioning to stop bacterial growth: these bugs are hard as nails.

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Try a capful maybe? I overdosed my current loop with biocide by accident (about a cap full instead of the recommended 1-2 drops) and I don't have any growth to speak of.

The loop gets a pretty good amount of sunlight too, the rad, res and pump are on my desk between my monitor and my machine (desk is between two windows) - granted, it's indirect sun, but it's still enough that I'd expect at least some growth.

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Originally Posted by snowwie

I personally like the rigidity compared to 3603. 3603 flattens easily and sags under the weight of a full loop. I got 2075/2275 a long time ago and liked it better but never posted it as the best new tubing because I knew most wcers wouldn't like it. to niksub (sp), for example, 3603 doesn't plumb like a wet noodle enough for him, he needs even softer stuff.

and of course it isn't as clear from the factory. personally, if looks are the most important, i think the cheap vinyl stuff from home depot is the clearest. for the first month (week?), at least. this stuff is probably best long term, but if long term is such an issue then you may as well get that stuff they use the apple g5 systems (billa mentioned it once).

sorry, guys, but the tubing issue is far from solved.

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Agreed. Still looking for tubing that's clear, resistant to growth, doesn't eat away at itself, and is reasonably cheap. I can't believe I paid 50$ for milky tubing.

We need someone with access to a microscope to make a slide and look at it. I'm sure someone here is in college and has access to a scope. If it is microbiological growth, I'm sure we could make the coolant more unfriendly to bugs.

Any chemist types see any potential interaction problems with ammonium chloride based disinfectants such as parvosol (which is pretty cheap)? It looks like they make this stuff clear now. It used to be blue, so I don't see a problem with coloring it if it is now clear.

Gentlemen, I give you:

new 3603, 3-month-old 3603 and new 2275

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2...1287hs6.th.jpg

I'm fairly certain (I'd bet some $$ on it) that the clouding on the older 3603 is not biological growth, it's more likely surface breakdown.

filled:

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/4...1293ru8.th.jpg http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/2...1296aw6.th.jpg

(try and guess which parts are old 3603 and which are new 2275 :P)

There are PVC/PUR blends that should be a little less stiff, more clear, and less chemically resistant and abrasion resistant.

Perhaps you could scale down your pictures before posting them...
ImageShack is so slow with sending out files that huge.

Need to find some tubing thats water resistant.
However... I am starting to think I rather just get some Opaque black tubing.
And sex it up with some lighting.