I'll quit if you pay me the equialent of what i make! :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
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I'll quit if you pay me the equialent of what i make! :toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
damn it max, we want you back :slapass:Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
I belive that a countersunk o-ring pressed against the IHS would seal very well. That's how many blocks (i.e storm) are designed and how many barbs seal. A simple direct IHS block could look something like this:
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/69/directihs1nu2.jpg
A picture of the countersunk o-ring.
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/4...ectihs3oy2.jpg
The only advantage with this method is that the heat has one less TIM to pass. But you could achive the same thing with a normal block on a naked core and then you could increase the surface area of the base with some structure like cups which makes it perform even better. Hence I don't think he's using direct IHS cooling.
Maybe if you used the same principle to build a direct die block? But it wouldn't be compatible with soldered IHSes so I doubt that's what he's thinking either.
I wonder what he's up to, if he's actually up to anything...
andersson.j that mock up is hawt! Yes that is exactly what I am thinking too. All I can say is that if it is a block with a BASE, it will not outperform the current top blocks.
I think it's possible to get superior cooling by using an array of heatpipes and then cooling the base and heatpipes with water. We already know from air coolers that heatpipes transmit heat better than bare solid metal. I have a design I have been working out in my head, I will draw it out and show you guys when I have time. I sent Thrilla a message asking him if he can get short (under 4") (maybe 2-3"?) heatpipes so I may actually try to build a prototype when I can afford to.
Someone should make this and test it. Any sealants out there that are waterproof that would let you attach a top like this?
or any type of gasket that has adhesive already instead of O-ring?
Still might be asking for disaster if you dont drain your loop though.
Also, why not use andersons design mixed with the storm; i.e. inlet has jets directly above the core and outlet uses two small channels that meet to form a larger outlet type deal (you could have outlet offset since modern cpu IHS is small). Jets would greatly improve the heat transfer.
I'll draw up a picture later of what i am suggesting if its unclear what i mean about the offset
Naw, heatpipes are good for aircooling but worthless for watercooling.
You wouldnt need a sealant, the oring would seal on the IHS.Quote:
Originally Posted by kemist
Why? Please elaborate. If you have heatpipes that use the right type of liquid with really low evaporation temp. Also in a design I'm thinking of you would be using a tight grid of vertial heatpipes that go through the base and are flush with the bottom that sits on the socket.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
Because heatpipes wick heat away from the source - look at any heatpipe aircooler. The fins are placed on the pipes and a fan blows to cool the fins which in turn cool the gas in the pipes. Water is FAR MORE efficient at cooling a hot surface than heatpipes are.Quote:
Originally Posted by AzraelDarkangel
*edit*
Some reading for you
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=12933
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=11525
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10681
So instead normal water blocks use water to cool a metal base with various shaped channels or holes yet heatpipes are more efficent that just metal and so the heatpipes should suck up heat from the cpu better than just a piece of metal and the very efficient water should cool the heatpipes and thus the cpu even better than air or water on just a metal base.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
Also have you seen the ends of a heatpipe (at least the ones in normal HSFs), how do you plan to get them to sit flush with the bottom of the base? If you can get it to work all credit to you, but it wont be an easy job.Quote:
Originally Posted by AzraelDarkangel
Could you maybe post a Drawing of what your thinking becuase I started thinking about it and what I came up with was a monster that I would be scared to put on my CPU becuase it would make the Tuniq tower look tame.Quote:
Originally Posted by AzraelDarkangel
wait is that picture suppose be a cpu IHS on the bottom or a base plate?
Ihs
Yes it will be a challenge, one end is usually rounded, on smaller heatpipes, and the other end is crimped.Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicpineapple
wtf..how do you plan to take out the cpu once water is in there? Not to mention one bad mount and the whole socket area is doom.
Not that big, I need more info on specific heatpipes but I was thinking it would be no taller than 3in. With a grid of around 15-20 heatpipes depending on diameter and how they are positioned, with just enough room between them for water to comfortably flow.Quote:
Originally Posted by speed bump
Thanks for the links nikhsub1. Nobody has really tried exactly what I want to do. Similar, but a really horrible implementation, mine would use many more heatpipes and water flow would be sideways, and no fins.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...album_pic2.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by andersson.j
Pretty good! I like that.
I think he gave his idea up in one of his post.(A draft) His has the main jet or jets centered on the top of the IHS. O-ring seal in this case would depend on how much preasure is put on the board or back-plate.(Which it would anyway) Bigger the pump, And the more restictive the other blocks are the tighter the seal will need to be.(More clamping preasure) Still the only way to know for sure is to test. I think the seal is where he's havin' his trouble. Your drawing looks very doable. But the 2# screw mounts might have trouble.
Edit: Don't forget the idea also removes the thermal resistance of the waterblocks base material. And a layer of TIM. Of course a bad mount in this case is a disaster not bad temps. LOL
Thx nikhsub1!
@ AzraelDarkangel: Here's some info on heatpipes.
Also take a look at heat columns.
I remember reading about some heatpipe cooler were the actuall heatpipes had direct contact with the IHS/die, they were kinda flat. But I can't find it again!
Thanks for the links, I'm familiar with the basics of heatpipes, I just need info from Thrilla on specific models and specs such as working temp. range and such.Quote:
Originally Posted by andersson.j
Yes thats totally right. Heatpipes are being used to transfer heat from one point to another. That way you can have larger fins, which result in better cooling. You need larger fins for aircooling, because the area around the CPU socket is very limited.
The only idea I came up with after 2mins is that you could build a watercooler that works like current coolers, but with heatpipes in the bottom plate and another block at the other end of the heatpipes. But that would mean the bottom plate as to be kind of thick, which is bad again to reach good temps.
andersson.j that cooler looks damn nice. I think I might give such a design a test, if I have the time to and find something to seal it right.
But I am not so sure if direct die cooling archives the best possible temps. Somehow I think that a modified IHS would result in better temps. If the IHS was made like current waterblocks are being made (for example with a #-kinda pattern to improve the surface) and are kinda thin, that would be ideal.
Well, thats basically the same than removing the IHS and use a ordinary block. lol, ignore what I hust wrote above.
Maybe someone with more physical knowledge than me can come up with some formulas to calculate the perfect cooling surface (*caugh FCG cough*)
Edit: Oh well, I was gonna post this a few posts earlier, so I am not done rading the other posts.
This is how Cray super computers are cooled, well in a way. They spray a fine mist of water on to the dye. Or at least thats what they did a few years ago when I watched an interview with their head engineer or someone like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by andersson.j
My IHS is thick enough that it could be checkered with some gunsmiths checkering tools. (Little pryamids) With multi jets that would probably be probably be pretty close to excellent. But someone else could have better ideas. It could even maybe have a shallow sort of impringment system Aka G-7? Expensive and difficult to be sure. I'm having a real tuff time reading my caliper but it looks pretty close to 2.5mm. So thats maybe 1mm dia holes 1.5mm deep? I guess it's best to leave it to poeple that have the tools. Going beyond that is back to a conventioal waterblock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr3ak