all i have here is a 5.6k fixed....will that work out good? whats the advantage of higer or lower and how low is too low?Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
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all i have here is a 5.6k fixed....will that work out good? whats the advantage of higer or lower and how low is too low?Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
I did every fsb oc with this voltage :D
My board does not like lower voltage anymore :( I could run 263 at 3.34V before with other LP B.
@stealth
5.6k is fine. Smaller values result in a smaller drop, but cause the total vcore to droop more. You had to compensate it more through higher vcore at the pin7 vcore mod.
Merry Xmas everyone :)
From me, too :D
And burn the candles, not your rig ;) :lol:
Hi .
My config and sets:
Bios original DFI 6/19
XPM 2600 + at 2500mhz over 1,8V, this mobo brutally undervolted, set up 1,8 and in MBM is low value from Prime 95 1,68V :eek:
vcore 1,775v
vdimm 3,3v 11-2-2-2 -auto - cpc off, on is not stable 5-10 min fail Prime
vdd 1,9v
vagp auto
agp mhz auto
And now see the problem :
250x9,5-2375mhz - @1,775v, 1,9 , 3,3v - 112222 13-15-auto cpc off,Prime after 2h blueescreen fail - STOP 0x00000050 PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
(AGP 66 fsb, AGP - defv,Agp latency 128, Apic disabled.
250x9,5-2375mhz - @1,775v, 1,9 , 3,3v - 112222 13-15-auto cpc off,Prime 51 min fail (AGP 66 fsb, AGP - defv,Agp latency 128, Apic enabled.
At the support MS is this bluescreen display drivers or nvidia drivers?
thx for help.
Try to set your AGP clock to 75MHz, AGP voltage to 1.7V, set TRC to 12 and TRFC to 16. Try to use ram sticks in a different order, and try to put the sticks in slots 1+3 instead of 2+3 or the other way around.
Another important thing not being evident for me is: what size of ram stick do ya own, what brand and what chips!?
I try else install this Morpheus extreme video drivers.
Ram 2x256 mb Twinmos Bh-5 with copper heatsink slot 2+3
Now i test in Prime 95 245x10 the same setting but cpc on, and bluescreen after 45 min. :(
try slots 1 + 3, vdd 1.7, vagp 1.7, and vcore at 1.8
sounds like maybe its heat?
on my LPD, i havnt put sinks on any clockgens or mosfets and the vdd mosfet is 60c and th lil black chip at the end of the agp slot is 60c, if i cool them woul i get better stability? im waiting for my thermal tape in the mail and i dont want to use thermal epoxy because it doesnt come off.
i also got a temp monitor, where do i put it to monitor my cpu temps? thanks
EDIT:listen to this. i started running 245x11=2700 and now i can literally hear my mosfets and clockgens working....its so weird. when i turn prime on it makes a weird noise (not real loud) and when i trun it off it goes away...it is neat! i really need to get this chips cooled though :rolleyes:
im running 2700 at 1.9v :) so far so good. I wanna try to hit 250x11=2750 maybe after i cool these chips and get this vdd some more power i can hit 260xsomething....or more :)
you know what else is weird, after i hit like 2.65, speedfan detected 2 more sensors. who knows.... and one called "remote temp" is the exact temp of my water block. 11c
also, is it bad to disable ACPI? if i want to try it, will it help me? and in wondows XP goto hardware manager and unistall driver for ACPI-Uniproc sys, then reboot and disable APIC in bios and load windows? correct?
Hmm. It's definitely a wise move to cool the vdd mosfet and the six cpu ones at least.
APIC can be disabled by installing another system device driver in controlpanel... the "ACPI Computer" one exactly. Then reboot, you don't have to disable anything in bios!
will acpi help at all? or can it hurt in any way?Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
and which driver do i install in place of the acpi?
What should it help?! Hmm, maybe you can go a lil higher in fsb, maybe also in vcore, but you may lose a lot of 3d performance. Iirc, at least 3dm01 was showing that effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
I am an APIC user, I never bother switching it off again. I tried it several times with no real success.
is it worth it to TEC the NB?
i can hit 260 stable when i set a A/C unit directly infront of my mobo bringing temps down close to 0c....(mobo temps, proc is remotely w/ced) why cant i hit 260 stable without it there? like is it likely the ram or mosfets?
also, SAE do you have an pics of your setup?
I cant boot moore than 255 fsb. DFI Infinity.
1,775V cpu,1,9 vdd, 3,3mem,auto agp, auto bus agp, APIC enabled, ACPI enabled.
integrated ph.- disabled, onboard device control disabled.
Memory settings: Expert, agresive, 52222-13-15-auto,fast,enabled,128mb,enabled,enabled,disabled,d isabled, disabled.
this is on ALL boards. I just got my 2nd infinity today after a 5 month streak with my nf7-s. I immediately applied heatsinks to everything and noticed a black mark on my NB heatsink. maybe its to find out if the user has removed the heatsink? It seems to be just a marker or something because after i washed the nb heatsink with soap + water (instead of using up a whole cloth) the mark was goneQuote:
Originally Posted by Naasar
btw this is how i was thinking of cooling the board. Nothing glued on yet. And about the vcore mosfets... If i use the bigger black ones, it will connect two of those chokes (= fry :)) UNLESS i use 1 black heatsink for two mosfets. This isnt that good b/c half of each mosfet is exposed though....
Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
I know from the good old nf7 rev 1.0-1.2 days... pelting the nb was really worth it. But now I did not really gain any MHz doing it. It was not worth the trouble infact. IMO the NB ain't the thing profiting from the AC units coldness. It's other components like the mosfets and some other small ics and maybe even the traces that can make use of this icy wind ;) The board gets more stable and reliable. But you have to admit it's no 24/7 solution, huh?! ;)
Pics of my setup??? :D Woooh, you don't really wanna see them... and my mess around here :lol:
found out that having com1 enabled makes EVERYTHING really unstable. who knows why. i needed it for my UPS too :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
so should i get a better chip so i dont have to rely so much on the mobo, thus the cool air wount make any difference?
ahh come on, show me some pics :stick:
hes got tons of pics in this thread already
That's true, my friend :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Revv23
I think I don't have any newer pics...
yeah i highly reccommend reading through this thread i spent about an hour doing it, ive picked up tons of usefull information...
ive read the whole thing more than once....i know SAE has a few pics but i wanted to see his WHOLE setup...cooling and all. not just like shots of mods and stuff
and why is it that everytime i change the ratio to anything other than 1:1 it is unbootable?
the guys over at extremeoverclocking told me its a bad bios chip and i should RMA the board. it works fine other than that though. i have tried even the stock bios and still does it. i have 3 flashed chips (including the bios saviour) so i can see it being a bad bios chip....maybe im just pulling too much from either the cpu or ram????
you dont want to run out of 1:1 anyways, its known to kill bios chips and there isnt much performance difference...
right but i have seen people run higher fsb just to say they can with a different divider...so its not just my board then? cause like i say the guys over at extremeoverclocking are telling me to RMA the board and its only like a week old...Quote:
Originally Posted by Revv23
Why would you RMA it?
The problem is probably related to BIOS programming since some boards can run async fine while others cant..
I dont think those guys at extremeoverclocking know much about nF2's.. ;)
exactly what i told themQuote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
i rest my case ;)
agreed. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
The ratios ain't really working as they should on nf2 chipset. It just cannot handle the latency increase and syncronization cycles IMO. Some quirks in chipset, I say ;)
For me there is AUTO, 1:1 and SPD that works for dividers. But be careful with mixed ram sticks... in case you got a 2700 among your sticks it could cause your bioschip to corrupt (as can setting the dividers to anything different from 1:1).
I say its all bios issues.. except 1T/2T (possibly).
i did a vcore and vdd mod to this board tonight....now i hit 260fsb stable with 3.3vdimm (bios, really 3.4) with 2x256mb bh-6 double sided ram. i cant wait to do a vdimm! and get better cooling so i can make this proc come alive!
hey whats the max i should run my vdd? i saw somewhere in this thread someone was running 2.5 in a nf-7 but how high is the max safe 24/7 and just for testing?
I wouldnt run higher than 1.8 for 24/7 probably.
Test the back of your motherboard behind the northbridge to see how hot it gets.. my infinity at stock volts was around 55c.
Hehe. Some of my earlier NF7 were running 2.8V fine :DQuote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
I'd recommend 2V as max for average cooling. My NB is lapped and watercooled - 2.2V is my 24/7 option iirc. Maybe 2.15V...
my nb is just lapped with a 60mm fan on the stock NBsink, its not really that hot at all with 1.9, but the SB does get a bit toasty... need to find a better sink for it, i think ill pull the nb sink off of my NFS-S2 that my stupid ass bought instead of the nf7-s lol....
higher then 1.9 i dunno because im still looking for pots locally greater then 10k.
well i have a swiftech NB cooler supposed to be about the best HSF on the market and this thing barely seems warm at 2.5! i think 2.2 will be a good 24/7 option though dont you?
Yep :DQuote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
You guys checking the back of the board? My heatsink never got warm but the back of the board was always hot..
What's getting hot on the back of the NB (an of the GPU too) are several SMCs mounted there. These are sometimes scorching hot. That's normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
If you are too worried, let it be ;) or just let a fan cool the area :D
P.S. The really dangerous thing with too high vdd were the nf7's vdd mosfets that tend to blow... :p:
mines barely even warm on the back though even at 2.5. the smcs are barely warm. would the mosfets blow on these boards?Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
^well if they aret burning hot i doubt it.
yeh i have big heatsink on the vdd mosfet (the one you measure from) and its is real cold now so i think im fine...Quote:
Originally Posted by Revv23
Yep. If you are cooling this bastard well enough, everything will be fine :thumbsup:
No, its not the SMC's.. its the same layout as the back of the nF7-s, Shuttle An35n and the two a7n8x's behind the northbridge.
I know the layout is the same :p: There are SMCs positioned in a square getting hot. My NB never got hot. Only warm, even at high vdd and high FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
It's been a while when I was aircooling the NB though.
ok, to be more blunt then: the area behind the northbridge is hot. The surface mount capacitors which enclose that area in a square are not hot!
Mine ain't hot, only warm. And that was the case with several boards I had. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
Hi guys. High FSB is a Pandoras Box ( max stable is 235)but i have next problem with a brutal undervolting mb. Infinity Rev A. I set in bios 1,8v and with MbM or CPUZ is 1,7 low value. I have cooling mosfets.
do the ocp mod and the vcore mod.
mine does it to the FYI, 2.0v in bios= 1.9-1.95 CPU-Z, it jumps all over the place, i need the droop/ocp/vcore bad, im still working on gathering parts...
Yeah, the ocp and droop mods can really help you to get a more stable vcore output thus improving overall system stability.
on my mm i dont see really any fluctuation, maybe less than .05v so should i still do a droop?Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
.05 isnt too bad its up to you
Don't trust the software output. It's cr@p produced by cheap parts ;)
I did the mod and immediately noticed better stability. It's up to you what you do, of course :D
well thats with a multimeter but the mm only shows .1 increments but its wierd....its in between id say. dont move much at all... ill prolly do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
hey i put a thermometer next to the cpu die under the waterblock and on the cpu surface as close to the die as i could get. it shows 3c under software...trust the real thermometor?
In this case the software reading from the ondie diode should be more exact. When putting a thermal sensor NEXT TO the die, it won't be that accurate. The lower temps may be read because of the waterblock spreading the heat reducing the total amount. And there are also several hotspots on die surface that you cannot notice using such a sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
Its a crap.
XP-M 2600+ IQYHA 0351 MPMW@200x12,5@1,725v Prime 95 fail after 4h. Cooling SLK 900A with 50 cfm.
2600+ IQYHA 0352 RPMW
200x12 - 2400 - 1,65v cpu 1,7v, 3v, - prime 22 min fail
2600+ IQYHA 0351 MPMW
200x12 - 2400 - 1,65v cpu 1,7v 3v, - prime 45 min fail
where should i put it thenQuote:
Originally Posted by SAE
Quote:
Originally Posted by ex.treme
you are telling me that a 2600 with 1.725 running 2.5ghz is bad? you joking M8? my 45w 2600 needed 1.9v just to get 2500, and it wasnt stable without a house fan blowing on it... hell even my 35w 2400+ needs at least 1.8v to make 2500mhz stable, luckily it has much more headroom with voltage then my 45w chip did... IE 2600mhz @1.85 2800mhz @ 2.0 (havent tried for more yet, stopped to mod board)
I have no better idea without worsening cooling performance. Best is the sensor inside... in case it's being readout exactly.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
REVV23: The man from which i buy the cpu, was running at 2600mhz@1,6 v with watter, a the second at 2500@1,725. By me sys is crapy cpus. Where is problem? I think mobo, PSu, or round cable.
what are your rails? your case well ventilated, my air is as good as decent water until i start cranking volts so maybe your case is just oo hot? it cant be board if your only running 200fsb...
try the hellfire bios?
Now 235x10,5 @1,750. After 45 min Prime fail :-(.
Restart and Prime running now 4 hours. Must go over 24 hours, its my max stable freq. (about 40 h prime stable before 1 week).
Only what i today do, was change position voltage cable and molex.
I"ll try take out the mobo and start. Its something bad. Like voltage problem.
I try N24ID619, Hellfire EG rev3, N24ID121 and anyone. The same problem.
Sometimes run Prime ok, sometimes crash after a few minutes.
why not try 200*12.5 with 1.85 vcore?
if you cant get it stable with more vcore then it is your board or something else, but if you can then its the CPU.
BArton Mobile, i dont wanna risk voltage over 1,8 v .
ok but my mobile has been running 1.85 for almost 8 months and 2.0v for last couple no problem... but whatever its your hardware...
Yep, my mobile's running 2.1V for some months now :D
taiwan boards better than china?
For me one TW board was better than two China boards ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
lets not forget the mach 2 :p:
but meh im really not worried about doing 2.1 on air once i get my pots...
(finnaly got a CC and order them minutes ago :) )
:toast:
Erm, for most peeps here it does not matter if they're using water or PC :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Revv23
They just force 2.1V through their poor lil cpus :lol:
how can i tell if my vdroop mod worked?
well is your vcore still drooping? if so it probably needs some work
Better stability at high vcore under heavy load. Test it with SuperPi and Pifast :DQuote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
And max safety v core with air cooling?
like i said, i run 2.0v all the time..
I sinked my infinity today. Its brand new and i havent tested it so i hope its not DOA lol...that would SUCK.
Good luck on your new pearl, Kobalt :thumbsup:
@ex.treme
Dunno if 2V can be considered safe. Maybe 1.85V... hmm. But finally it's your own decision.
Ok i try first only 1,8 v :)
But next problem. Looks like a DFI is not a final mobo.
Audigy + DFI and sometimes is ok , sometimes the sound is away. N/a.
I run win, and run winamp. Then i started video file with sound and >
http://sweb.cz/EXTREME.OVERCLOCKER/no%20sound.GIF
This is a 240 fsb
Help restart
Yep it works :). Extreme i had the same problem with my audigy and a tv tuner. Its not the DFI, its the audigy. Creative is just known for being horrible...
This board is pretty good; its the second one I have. My only complaint is everything is a very tight fit when installing. When you use the mounting holes, no matter how you position the studs, one of them must rest on two components which is kind of shady. Also, the studs are very close to other components. Also concerning layout, what are the 3-pin connectors doing at the bottom of the motherboard. Its a fricken maze to route my rear fans there.
Otherwise, I am very pleased with this board! It overvolts on the vdimm .06-.07, and the vcore is slightly overvolted. Also, my rails are more stable. On my nf7-s, my 12v never went higher than 11.8, but now it's approximately 12v. Now I just need to install some programs and then I can overclock :). I hit 250 on this ram (bh-5) on an infinity semi-stable, but I have a feeling it was the board and not the memory. I'll keep you guys posted.
can you make better pic ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kobalt
where did you bought all these sinks and what thermal paste ?
I bought the black heatsinks from a guy on amdmb forums a while ago. I used thermal epoxy to attatch those. The blue and silver heatsinks came with thermal tape so i just used that. I attatched the southbridge with epoxy also. The epoxy is easily removeable; just twist and pull the heatsink a bit, and it will snap off. I just removed a bunch on a nf7 I am no longer using.
I think my psu is holding me back a bit. This cpu has it 2.8ghz stable at 1.95vcore and it will be verified by both MUCHO and FlyingHamster. I cant get 2.7ghz out of it. Right now the 12v is at 11.9x-12.0x...but as soon as i up the vcore to around 1.95, it dips down to 11.7-11.9. I dont know if it can handle an ultra, two raptors, one regular hard drive, one dvd-rw, and 2 pci cards. Antec 480w Truepower
Heres a larger picture...jeeze lol 199.9kb. the max is 200.0
be careful of the blue heatsink in between the 2 black ones by the dimms. it may be very close to a few SMD's and its will short them out and kill your board. happened to me :( :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Kobalt
1.85 is a definite safe option, even anandtech has clainmed this.
on a side note, i was practicing my soldering today and i jut realized how hard this ocp mod will be, any tips for getting this right?
also i just got a ton of caps off of this NF7-S2 i had, as well as a few chokes, any way to test them?
edit - ex.treme use onboard soundstorm, sounds better then audigy anyways.
Audigy sounds better than soundstorm...i have both.
What bios should i use? Im having problems with lan and usb dropping out at 220mhz with the 6/19 bios...
I remember the 12-10 worked great for me last time.
I'd recommed either Merlin's 0.5 E4 Taipan or Hellfire's rev3.
I further recommend to use the Gigabit LAN cause it's really stable, even at high fsbs. I am able to use it up to 255-259MHz. :D
Cool the SB actively, the cooler it is, the fewer these drops and sound distortion are.
The gigabit lan? Isnt that just the onboard lan? im using that...
The sb cooler isnt being cooled actively, but it has the big nb heatsink epoxed on it with a bit of airflow from my intake fans and 6800 ultra. I will put a fan on it brb :)
SAE you gotta help me get this board up real nice :). I was 250fsb out of it...this ram can do it, cause its done it before.
edit: fan blowing on southbridge...i think the northbridge would benifit from a fan also. i will have to find a way to zip tie it so it doenst vibrate all over my vidcard
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kobalt
i also have both and strongly disagree.
Really Revv23? I do not doubt your opinion. Lets try to figure some things out and lets not get this into a heated debate....
That said...What kind of speakers do you have? I have sennheiser hd280 pros (100usd) and i noticed a lot smoother bass and overall better sound the moment I switched.
Im at 225 fsb now. Wouldnt boot, untill i changed the Tdoe and TRRP stuff. The keyboard keeps lagging every 20 seconds though...even with a SB active cooler. It feels luke warm. BRB...3dmark time
i have two klipsh KG5.1's ($1300 at time of purchase- got as a hand me down, rated at 110w per speaker) paired with a harmon/kardon 120wx2 stereo reciever(HK 3480 - $350)
anyways, the audgiy is close but not even with soundstorm imo, whilst the audigy two sounds better, but its not worth the price increase to me.
Ahh... thats it. You're talking about audigy 1. I'm talking about Audigy 2. I notice the difference between the two. The only reason I got the card was because it was a Audigy 2 ZS for 50$ AR and I'll need a soundcard when I go A64
Nice speakers btw. I have JBL scs160si speakers with a yamaha ht4-5470. It was 400 bucks at black friday.
ahh audigy 2, that would explain it lol...
and damn, i really love your reciever, i drooled over it for about a month before i decided to get the H/k for less money, still really happy with it though,
haha your reciever cost 50$ less than my reciever and speakers. I love black friday even though waking up at 1am sucks ass
Sorry guys, but I just realized you have an Infinity, don't ya??? :D
So no GB LAN for ya ;) But it works way better than the nvidia and my external realtek variants...
Here is my heatsink.
What's these circular things attached to your ram sinks?? (great ones btw, where did ya get those?, diy???)Quote:
Originally Posted by ex.treme
heres my current fan setup. The one cooling the southbridge is hanging which is cool cause it makes little noise :). The one cooling the ram and northbridge is resting on my videocard. SAE - Hellfires site is down so i cant find the bios file at dfi-street. All i get is links to his site. No mirrors...
What bios do ya need? I only have the LP versions, but I have several of them, and they work without hiccoughs on Infinity boards, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kobalt
PM me your email address...
SAE: Its cirle for the key :-), cut in the middle. Than working like a clip.
And heatsinks are my suggest. Full Cu, 1x piece 200 g weight.
Kobalt:Audigy problem> Only restart help you or anything better?
Interesting, that i running 4 month without audio problems.
Now, when i tested any bios and higher fsb have this problem.
One thing for everyone.
Are you using the isolating pad under screw for fixed mobo?
Ah. I see. Key rings... ;)
Pad under mobo screws??? No, I never used those. I think it's an ancient relict from 386 days ;)
should i try a 4.7k resistor because i havent seen any difference with a 5.5k....
why is it that too high of vcore makes me unstable? temps 22c
and i cant get 245*11 prime stable with any array of voltages...should i try a different bios? im on merlins 6-19 now with LPB thanks
The smaller the resistor, the smaller the droop (you are referring to the vdroop, aren't ya) ... But you have to compensate through pin7 vcore mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth17
Higher Vcore -> more unstable... yep, you have to have real good mosfet cooling with a strong fan pointing to the area... I even have some small-but effective copper sinks on the mosfet's driver ics!
Did you also do the ocp mod? That's strongly recommended. Otherwise you'd have instability still although you did the droop mod.
yes vdroop....ocp? why though i can hit higher than 2.1vQuote:
Originally Posted by SAE