That looks awesome!!!
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That looks awesome!!!
Love that build! Now that is art right there I tell you what! :rofl:
Bei Fei and UTnorris. A pair of T3's with top fill port mod shipped today to Buddy's address. Should make your part of Texas by Friday.
Kataro--yours may not make NYC by Friday, but should by Monday or Tuesday latest. Custom top port is on the left, as seen from the front, as per your request.
MillertIme359--I have already forgotten where you live but it went out today via UPS and will be wherever you are "soon" =) Still looking for the SW files for T3. They are posted somewhere in this thread if you don't want to wait, or if the sketchUp doesn't work for you.
All have the new transparent glue so no more amber bonding bands. I also inspected them all so your set.
I think that takes care of everyone right? If I missed anyone it may be because you didn't follow the email link in the PM I sent you. Just let me know.
Look who is in the Nvidia mod contest:
http://www.nvidia.com/object/ION_case_mod_contest.html
Yeah. Am I going to get my butt kicked or WHAT lol.
I can't think of a more talented assemblage of modding "heavy weights" so I look at it like this, if your going to have the boots put to you, let be a by a group of totally dedicated and classy Gentlemen like Boddaker, Dennis, Ton, and Bill Owens.
They set up a private room in their forums (Modders Inc) for us and you would be shocked at how UN competitive the atmosphere in there is. It is almost like the only competition is to see which of those guys can help the others the most. Dennis has offered Danger Den's extensive machining capabilities to all the builders and each time somebody gets a sponsor to contribute parts, they get parts for everyone.
Not that all of these guys are not serious competitors of course, but more that they all just really like this format where it is not about the builders, but about the guys submitting their dream designs. Sounds campy and I am sure I will catch hell for it but it really is the type of contest we need to see a lot more of because it grows the commuity.
Win or loose I am really proud to be a part of it all.
It is worth mentioning that DB had a seat in the contest and gave it up...most likely because you just can't cram 85 pounds of bling into one of those tiny mods. =)
Well I got everything up and running last night. I got a Asus Rampage II Striker, the T3, and a MCR320-QP to replace the MCR220-QP. Then the GTZ and the MCW60. I ran the rad off the top loop, and the MCW60 and GTZ off the bottom loop.
The E8400 was back to stock clock and was around 35 idle and I think 45 load. The GTX 260 was clocked to 700/1500/1200. It was showing about the same temps. I was testing load temps with Crysis on high settings.
Unfornately, the comp didn't turn back on today. It seems that this MB is bad now. So I now have to tear it all down, and test the CPU this weekend, and then call in an RMA on Monday. So it seems it is going to be a couple more weeks before I can get everything up and going again.
(I really need to get Firefox put on this crunching rig :()
before I forget, PAZ, a rather bright guy in another forum mentioned that 5mm LED's fit perfectly in the 4 small cavities on the back / sides of the T3 for those using all four ports who can't use the LED plugs. I am going to design a slightly thicker acrylic mounting plate (3/8") with small notches to pass LED wires through and hold the LED's on the pump side in place. Will post up some pictures once I have a good design sussed out.
Well I just drained the rig tonight. It is a little tougher draining it as there will be some water dripping down the front of the case when you tip it. I guess you could try balancing it and pulling the plugs when it is tiped forward already, but that is a little hard with a 50 pound Cosmos 1000 :(.
Once you get over that, seems to drain pretty well. I just took into the bathtub and tipped it forward. Was a little easier than the old swifty res. I would recommend putting a drain line in though if you are using a MM case. :up:
Got the replacement res in, thanks Boxgods. Looks 10 times better and now I have a fillport on top. I will let you know how it works this upcoming week.
I sort of cheat. I tilt my rig onto its back, screw in two fittings, add about 2 feet of scrap tube. Tilt it forward back onto it's feetand run one line into a bucket on the floor, and puff air into the other...drains FAST that way as there is no vacuum. Once it is partially drained just tilt the case forward onto its face.
Any pics yet? They DO look a lot better huh? I was going to make little inserts to hold LED's in the 4 side slots (2 per side) that extend to the back, but when I tried an LED they stuck in there just fine without any need for a clip or anything. Looks like the simple solution for when you use all 4 ports and don't have any free for the LED plugs.
I don't know why I didn't think about that. I have enough extra fittings and tubing now. That would make so you don't have water dripping down the front, I will have to try that next time. :up:
What I do is, replace the front drain holes with 2 barbs and connect hose to both barbs.
Put one hose into a bucket and blow through the other.
when you get it down to the level of the barbs, tilt the case forward and bobs your uncle!.
Great piece of kit BOXGODS, thanks.
I liked just taking it into the bathtub. That worked great, didn't have to worry about water splashing anywhere of nothing. :up:
just got mine in today, and its a triple bonded one. not sure ill really care, since my water is so dark, but my case is acrylic. however it might be just fine if the rubbery glue make a nice vibration dampener.
boxgods, will i be able to test it out (ill be using just plain tap water first) and if i dont like it then get it swapped for a new one with your new glue?
and btw no instructions at all in the box, a bunch of nice numbered bags, but no guide (ill find one on the enternet). and i dont quite see how it was suppose to all fit together, it was able to move around quite a lot, good thing it had the foamy paper covering it
Just got my new top mounted fillport version.
Its very very nice.........and the bonding band is much cleaner and crisper too. You can hardly see the join.
Big thanks to BoxGod.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2424/...445d0d7883.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3506/...45dff1b262.jpg
Thanks Boxgods! I am at your mercy :)
The reservoir looks really nice, but I'd throw those fittings out in a heartbeat.
My Glycol Pictures - forgive the crap point and shoot that I have I'm sure you can get the gist of it.
Healthy Crack on top:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/DSCN0773.jpg
Severe Clouding:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/DSCN0774.jpg
Horrible picture alert - Sheared off top polycarbonate fittings with several cracks from the threads to the pump housing:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/DSCN0776.jpg
These pictures do it no justice, its a mess and leaks like a sieve. Can't wait for my new one to ship!
As I sit now with one 4890 awaiting RMA:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/DSCN0768.jpg
The new band looks great, I gues it's my own fault for being an early buyer!
@ Altspacen - Are those photos the result of using an Ethylene Glycol based fluid?
is that still easy to fill via 1 topport then?
I cannot locate my MSDS on the fluid that I use but once I get ahold of another copy I will let you know exactly whats in it. Back to distilled I go now. Odds are it is Ethelyene Glycol as we have merged our indoor and outdoor coolant parts numbers to be the same stuff. I had the old stock and I had no issues with my Alphacool bay res and its window, when I added the T3 I also changed my fluid to our new stock. Looks like I found my issue there with the new fluid.
Lesson learned on my end, and maybe it'll help someone else out later down the road.
I ran mine with suggested mix of G12 pentosin antifreeze, which i believe is Ethylene Glycol based, should I not, and empty my loop right now ?
I am REALLY sorry about not getting to the instructions yet. I know being "really busy" is no excuse...I am going to do my best to get to them this week.
They do look a lot nicer. The only down side with the new glue is that it is thinner then I would like and sometimes there is a little squeeze out. It is crystal clear so it's not nearly as big a deal as the bonding band was though. I am working with the manufacturer to get us a slightly thicker mixture which will help.
Big thanks to you and sorry again for your issue.
No worries =)
Now go kick ass at QuakeCon...wish I could make it this year =(
YES. Right now lol. There is no need to use the ethylene glycol as it is toxic and there are non toxic alternatives. It eats Acrylic. This is why your FIRST one cracked...
Primo Chill has added an easy to remove no residue sticker right to the T3 now that says NO ETHYLENE GLYCOL or alcohol in or on your Typhoon III. Yours did not have that sticker because I added that top port for you myself. Mr Miller is correct however that it says it it in the write up where you bought your T3.
Sigh:(
Geno you will be there . . .at least evidence of your design will be. And since I am part the Brotherhood of BoxGods, you will be well-represented.
Hey guys, good design it seems the creator is onboard here :)
Was wondering what the out of stock deal is with all the retailers - anxious to get one of these!
Just got my replacement and it looks outstanding. That clear glue looks much better :yepp:
@Jon_K
I know BoxGods and Brian from PrimoChill have been working hard. It should be shortly we all hope. :up:
Primochill.com had them on presale to ship today, I have yet to check my e-mail to see if mine has shipped or not.
Acrylic sounds pretty delicate. I never knew just alcohol could crack acrylic, before reading this thread and seeing others learn the hard way :p:
Any chance of future T3's being made with an option of a more chemically resistant material used for it's construction?
Even if it cost more, I'm sure a lot of us wouldn't mind the piece of mind that would come with it.
D5:
with speed controller: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html
without: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html
The only difference between the 2 is one allows you to adjust speed of pump (1-5), and the other is locked in at setting 4. Most people perfer the one with the speed controller, but if you don't want to spend the extra money, then the regular one works just fine.
For actual shipping details, you can PM BoxGods, or call Brian at PrimoChill. :up:
The back is actually polycarbonate, but for the beautiful clarity you want in a reservoir...nothing can touch acrylic. As for ethylene glycol...there REALLY is just no reason to be using it IMHO. Bad for people, bad for animals, bad for the planet. There is no real advantage to using it in your cooling loops.
Again, just my opinion. Not trying to tell anyone what to use or not use.
With the colored tubing available now, and all the different res options out there, and the possible gunking issues. I don't see a need for it in regular everyday rigs either.
I could also see a use for it if you are piping into a freezer, or like to stick your rad out the window during winter to get those extra couple of degrees.
Show rigs, I can see a use for it there seem to be more color and shade options with coolant than there is with colored tubing.
I used mine cause free was cheaper than $2 gallon distilled. Now you see what I got for taking the easy way out. I'm all ready and setup now for my replacement, flushed my rads and everything with my leaking res and lots and lots of papertowels. Shipped today priority mail! Thank you Primochill!
I haven't put anything other then distilled water in mine (I was like the first one to order a T3 from primochill, I snuck in an order when they were just setting it up on the website :) ). Although I do have a whole bottle of Pentosin G11 that I never opened, which I only wanted for it's blueness. Since I don't really like care for clear fluid in a clear enclosure.
Only reason I asked was it would be nice not to have to worry about with what fluid I put in, or if it was somehow to accidentally get alcohol on it.
For the most part, I'm happy with my T3, besides my sloppy seam glue (I have the original kind), but since I don't stair at my res all day, I don't think much about it lol I'll just get a faceplate when they come out :)
THE T3 LOWERED MY TEMPS BY 50%!!!!
well actually im still running a serial loop until i get more tubing. the real culprit was the bad mounting. the bracket holding down the fusionv2 was warped permenetly, so i have no idea how much pressure there was. AND the base of it was severly warped from when i had it on my 5000+BE without an IHS. so i sanded it down, and flipped the bracket over and used alot less pressure, so i think ive got a 10x better mount which might explain why i had high temps. and my temps went from 55C to 45C and room temp is 25C, so the best looking math makes it either 33% or 50% depending on how you look at it (30C to 20C delta from ambient). all thanks to me spending the last 4 hours installing this thing, (and doing some other various changes while i had my case apart)
FYI,
Flow rate gains are very minimal.
The very best flow rate gain skinnee got in his recent testing of all the D5s was this loop which was showing the T3 had maybe a .2GPM gain (most restrictive loop which would typically be the CPU):
The other tops more restrictive A loop in parallel got around 1.4GPM, and the T3 got around 1.5-1.6GPM
http://skinneelabs.com/Pumps/SysLoopFlow-Loop3.jpg
Per Vapor's testing on the Fuzion V2 here:
http://vapor.skinneelabs.com/FV2Tests/FV2Q.png
The thermal response difference between 1.4GPM and 1.6GPM is only worth about .3 -.4C.
This depends a little on the block, but the thermal differences in the best case scenario will not likely be more than half a degree at most.
That's still good in today's environment of splitting hairs and making microscopic gains, but don't expect degrees of improvement with flow rate, it's much more likely going to be less than half a degree. Still half a degree for the good:up:
I think he meant lowered his rise over ambient by 50%. Still, it would 33.3%, not 50 (55-25=30; 10degC drop = 1/3rd of 30)...
I'll get the same type of performance increase but mine will be the difference between the original and the new glue, millertime359 you've been following my posts and you know that my HK was mounted wrong. Well I slapped the GTZ in there for ease of mounting and having compressions instead of barbs and I'm totally hoping for a large improvement as well as less of a rainshower on my harddrives. :surf:
i knew a title like that was gonna start a tiny bit of drama, but yeah it was mostly a joke. 50% gains is by looking at the current delta of 20C and how it use to be 30, so 10C difference relative to the 20C is 50% worse with the old mounting. "A+(A*50%)=B" and "B-(B*33%)=A" its just how you do the math, 50% and 33% can both be the answer.
i turned my pc on this morning, and my temps are back up to 58C, i really think i need to find/make a better bracket, the fusionv2 AMD bracket just looks like a joke. its weak area is a 1/4 width of steel, and the holes are over an inch away. i think i have an idea of how to make it work, but its gonna look ugly.
you calc %change with this formula ((init-final)/init)*100 - ((30-20)/30)*100 = %change = 33%
not ((30-20)/20)*100
No appearance at PPC ...
yeah but thats misleading to call it 50% its not 50 its 33....
Ahhhh...nothing like a little drama to get my pulse going lol.
Anyone remember that old thread with the peanut butter used as a TIM? AMAZING how many people fell for it.
So when will these be in stock at stores :)
i forget what forum did the best coolant competition.
But beer was one of them... :rofl:
i think we got more pissed cuz they wasted beer.
Its a cardinal sin to waste beer. :rofl:
ok WTF, this morning i saw 58C, now im at 42C.
list of changes:
A/C unit was running all day (i have it set to 78F, but i dont trust it) so this morning my ambient might have been higher, but nothing that could warrant 10C
I just put some more water in the T3 to top it off, it use to grab a bubble every 30 seconds
and i lowered the pump from setting 4 to 3.
we shall see what its like tomorrow morning (and i need a real temp probe again, ugg @ money)
Last I looked, ModdersMart and PrimoChill had inventory, (as well as six of the custom units I did for them with a top port), 40 of the PEC and 40 of the standard 8 port had shipped to German/EU resellers. I think (just hearsay) Frozen and performance orders are shipping next week. They ARE getting caught back up.
I also got word that the latest machined samples of the Jet Top (a D5 serial only top design), a single bay reservoir, and a DDC pump top have shipped and I should have them this week for testing. Were a few other things I can't remember...one was the samples of the Billet aluminum face plate for T3 so I can confirm it fits etc. If it does they will enter production next week.
I also sold the design for a metal version of the Poly Ghosts. Very upscale...likely not for everyone of course, but another option. The drawings are at the factory for proof of manufacturing review. Cross your fingers as these are out there a bit lol.
I will keep you guys posted.
Yea, just looked and Primochill only showed they had stock of the T3 with the speed control D5, but the non-vario version and just the T3 still show out of stock. Did Brian not completely update the site yet? :confused:
No idea. All I know for sure is I shipped out 6 of the custom top ports a few days ago. I am in Texas and they are in New Mexico so he SHOULD have them by Friday at the latest.
Yeah, I admit the concept of a kegerator mod made me pause and think about it for a minute too lol. Be the most popular mod at the LAN for sure.
Update: Received the wrong order from primochill, and now they're sending one today to be with me on Monday. :( More waiting.. oh well got to love my luck lately.
I have been reading this thread for way too long :) including Skinnees well executed review. I find the whole thing extremely intriguing but nowhere do I see any results of having a TIII in the system.
What I am really wanting to see is some concrete numbers of temps before and after.
I seem to spend a major part of my life tearing my system apart and putting it back together usually with the hope (too often unfounded) of gaining greater performance, lower temps or both.
So someone please educate me as to the real benefit of breaking my system down one more time and installing two loops to the TIII. It sounds fun and the TIII is cool looking but what will it do for me?
I presently have two triple rads and a D5 vario so I would only need a TIII, a bunch more tubing and a lot of hours with my trusty dremel.
it will be nearly impossible to see a combination close to what you would be using. 10 different water block, 20 different cpus, >10 different gpu blocks, 5 different radiators, 10 different fans, and 3 different pump settings would all have to be tested to cover all the different combination to give the answer to 95% of the population.
or you can see how well your block does based on flow rate, and assume the T3 in parallel can increase its current flow by 10-20% (basically set the D5 to 3, see the temp, then set it to 4 and see the change, if you notice a change, you might benefit from the T3)
Well there are a couple of posts out there on that. utnorris swapped out his dual loop for the T3 on parallel loops and saw no major effect to temps. The CPU stayed the same and it seemed the GPU dropped a degree.
Shazza posted some temps in her DD torture rack build log. She had her's set as one serial loop and saw temps go up a degree compared to her DDC w/XSPC top. Last I heard, she was working on turning her one loop into parallel loops and plans to post temps when done.
I got mine set up for a couple of hours (MB failed the next morning) and did a rad upgrade from a MCR220 to a MCR 320. I had rad on one loop and blocks on other. The temps were pretty nice. I will post more on my temps when I get it back the MB back and can get some more time on it.
So, in short, you probably won't see a major temp increase. The benefit would be a cleaner system if you are/thinking about running dual loops. Instead of having 2 pumps and res', you will only have one nicely mounted in 2 5 1/4" bays :up:
Shane did a whole bunch of flow rate testing you can use as an estimator to translate flow rate gains to thermal gains for many of the CPU blocks.
For cross reference, 1GPM = about 220LPH, 1.5GPM = about 330LPH
http://www.abload.de/img/alltempflowpa9i.jpg
Some early pictures of the machined aluminum face plates from the factory (so not GREAT images sorry).
These are machined from a solid sheet of aluminum 1/2" thick. They will come in a polished aluminum, brushed anodized black, clear (silver) red and blue. There may also be a limited number of that teal anodize color. The Black and Clear/silver will match your typical Lian Li or Silverstone bay covers.
Brian from Primo tells me they will have a MSRP of $30 USD or less and that he will order at least 100 to see how they sell.
http://www.primochill.com/t3/chrome_back.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/chrome_front.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/black_front.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/silver_front.jpg
http://www.primochill.com/t3/black_back.jpg
Those production samples will be here middle of next week and if all is well, expect them to be in retail about 2 weeks from there.
Might be counting me in for one of the black ones Gino.
Looking good. :up:
Very nice. Those plates are tempting me to go back to D5 pumps.
Has anyone tried using this with a modified D5, specifically will it fit those shiny bitspower chrome bodies?
yup. 1/6" thick 3M type foam double backed tape. Will stay put fine and you can remove them if you have too. Just have the goo gone handy =)
The bees knees for modders . . .
http://www.mnpctech.com/scotch_4010_...emod_gods.html
Peels of without residue
:shocked::shocked: This mouse is freaking SICK!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFNo4...layer_embedded
edit: little off topic there :), seen that site before, but just seen that mouse.
Yeah, Bill can certainly throw down! Mouse is too purdy to touch lol.
Yea, I found the build log for it, got me thinking now. I been looking at trading my G7 in for that new cordless Razer, might have to look into that one instead.
Here is the build log for those wondering, maybe I should get back on topic now. ;)
I blame it on DB. :p:
http://www.casemodblog.com/?p=1128
Have you ever used a razor though? As nice as that looks, I can't use the mouse as its a claw style mouse. Might want to go to some store and see how one feels first. Defiantly an acquired taste.
Bestbuy has that Razer Mamba now, so I checked it out last I was there. I was thinking the same thing, but it actually felt a little nicer than my G7. I'm waiting to see if the prices comes down a little and I heard there were a few issues in the software when it first got released, so been a little hesitant. Also the G7 is still working anyways. :p:
Does anyone know how long it will be until the Typhoon is back in stock? Based on what I read here, it seems like an awesome res/pump mount.
It looks like they are sending out 100 to 200 units a week. Last weeks shipment went to the EU which is why some North American retailers are OOS. Should be seeing inventory by about the end of the week I was told.
Thanks for the update, guys! I'll try to be patient.
I can confirm they did ship to Performance today. Should be there in Florida by Thursday the 13th (August). No idea how long till they get them into inventory though.
The machined aluminum face plate samples for T3 also shipped today. I will be sending the polished one directly to your Hotel for the Away Team mod DB. Will post pictures of the rest of the finishes by the end of the week likely.
Consider yourselves updated. =)
GREAT, really looking forward to owning the black faceplate BOX.
When will they ship to the EU?