Thanks yeah have raised volts to all areas 1.5cpu and maxed Vmch...though e6750 has 8multiplier so 3.646ghz is my max stable with fsb@456 i am sure there is headroom as i boot vista fsb466 though orthos fails pretty quickly
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Thanks yeah have raised volts to all areas 1.5cpu and maxed Vmch...though e6750 has 8multiplier so 3.646ghz is my max stable with fsb@456 i am sure there is headroom as i boot vista fsb466 though orthos fails pretty quickly
Damn, you're getting your FSB pretty high. You can't get much more out of this mobo than that. If you want faster FSB speeds you'd be better off with a different chipset.
yeah pretty much knew i was doing alright with those sort of fsb's shame as my e6750 is crying to be pushed higher.
Raising the fsb yields better results than raising the MP, in terms of performance.
My advice is to lower the MP to minimum (6) in order to find the board max stable fsb. Once established max fsb it is time to raise the MP again. (Loosen the ram timings to take this variable out of th equation.)
@Polynikes,
based on your (seemingly) very good airflow I would bet it is safe to give 1.85V a try. Put a finger on the NB - if instant burn, it is time to back off :D
Good luck.
Page 2: Disable ratio support and run it @ 9x, (I have a Q6600 so this is my max x9) I have found even trying to run 8x to get my memory to 800mhz even while running the 400FSB CPU @ 3.2 I still had to pump in more MCH rediculous as that may sound and the system was still not stable. Not only that benchmarks did not show significant improvments running it @ 400fsb 800mhz 3.2 nor 395fsb 795mhz 3.5ghz. So I settled for my 378fsb and the system is stable and I am happy....
Page 3: I disable peg link, it is garbage and will OC the video card and make your system unstable in my limited knowledge
Well I tried for 400, 395 and 385 with your suggestions but no go. Upping the ratio at 375 to 10x made orthos fail within seconds, and I like the balance between speed and voltage I have going right now, so I think I'm just gonna leave it as it is right now.
I too have found that 333FSB is a stable OC. I can boot into windows at FSB 350 and www is OK but I ran DVDShrink and I crashed out and rebooted.
Here is my CPU-Z
My Settings:
BIOS 2103 (2004 gave me a CPU uCode error)
AI Overclocking set to: MANUAL
CPU Frequency : 333MhZ
DRAMM Frequency :800Mhz (1:1 according to CPUZ)
Performance Mode :Turbo
PCI Express Frequency : 100Mhz
PCI Clock Sync Mode : 33.33Mhz
Memory Voltage : 2.1v
CPU Vcore Voltage : 1.4 (1.37 in CPU-Z)
FSB Termination V : 1.4
MCH Chipset V : 1.65
ICH Chipset V : 1.2
--------------------------------------------------------
CPU Configuration
Microcode Update : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled
Execute Disable Function : Disabled
CPU Internal Thermal Control : Disabled
Virtualization Technology : Disabled
Intel SpeedStep Technology : Disabled
--------------------------------------------------------
Advanced Chipset Settings (DDR2)
Configure DRAM Timing By SPD : MANUAL
DRAM CAS Latency : 4
DRAM RAS Precharge : 4
DRAM RAS To CAS Delay : 4
DRAM RAS Activate to Precharge Delay : 12
DRAM Write Recovery Time : 4
Hyper Path 3 : Disabled
DRAM Throttling : Disabled
COOLING: Nautilus 500 WC
Temps: 46C idle and 60C at 100% load
The above is stable but I will run orthos tonight.
I think that my Rev. C0 board is at its limit.
What do you think. Is it worth another board to push higher?
I was a bit disappointed since I was pushing 400FSB on my E6400 but then again this is a QUAD.
Anyone think that a P5B would yield a 4 GHz. clock?
ALL depends bro, I am quite happy with 3.4ghz and I use my system for everything including gaming for hours. I love the performance comming off an AMD X2-4800 939... I mean this board is feature packed but if just pure Ocing is what you are after and pushing the very limits of your CPU then they say the P35 or better yet I read the X38 will be out in October...
Me, I love this board, maybe not the best OCer but I love it... :D
I can't seem to get past 378-380 FSB no matter what I try. Also, I've seen posts with people running this speed or even faster with WAY less vCore. If anyone has any ideas on how I can get past this wall I'd be greatly appreciative. Btw, I turn down the RAM speed one notch when I try to go higher (in this case, 750MHz).
System specs:
Mb:....Asus P5W DH Deluxe (rev 1.03G) BIOS 2205
CPU:...E6600 SL9S8 (pack date: 09/12/06)
HS/F:..Corsair Nautilus 500
RAM:...GeIL 2 x 1GB GX22G8000DCK (PC8000 - 1000MHz) 2.3v
Gfx:....Asus nVidia 8000 GTX
Snd:...Creative X-Fi FPS (Fatal1ty Pro)
PSU:...Rosewill RD550-2DB-SL 550W
(let me know if you need more system specs)
(click on images to enlarge)
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/2...0051wa1.th.jpg
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/4...0052az1.th.jpg
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http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/1...0056mo9.th.jpg
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http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/2...0059ch7.th.jpg
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Dump the AI booster and use something else like Everest.. I noticed this created instability for me....
I think a lot of it is luck. In the link I referenced (http://forums.vr-zone.com/showthread.php?t=88306) the guy got a Q6600 to 400FSB on less than 1.4 vcore. That's nuts.
I think it's really just luck of the draw. If you get good parts, you can get great OCs, if not... Oh well.
I should've gotten an E6600. :P
Hi all,
I'm currently at 400fsb on my p5wdh, but I have an old rev with a max mch of 1.65. What's the best way to get a recent-rev board?
I've got this board pretty well figured out now, and it doesn't seem like the newer boards have much advantage as yet.
I'm running the northbridge watercooled... seems like this is where my wall is right now.
Thanks!
-Bob
nerve007 can you post your BIOS settings including BIOS rev, CPU voltages, FSB term. voltage, memory etc.
Thanks
I woudnt seek out a new rev board. Just do the vMCH pencil mod, it's very easy and gained me about 35 more FSB (390 to 425)
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=3876
I'm running 1.81V on the northbridge right now and am stable up to 425 or so. Can boot as high as 440. This is on stock cooling with good air flow.
No kidding. What are the potential drawbacks to this mod, besides the obvious warranty voiding? I mean, as long as you're not putting too many volts through the NB, can this cause any other problems?
I can only speak from my personal experience so take that into consideration.
I have been running 1.8V through the northbridge for about 8 months now with no problems whatsoever. And 10 seconds with a q-tip you would never be able to tell anything was modded on the board.
Technically, I suppose the pencil mod does void your warranty, but in all actuality I have found it would be hard to actually cause serious damage using it. Mainly because it would be hard to lower the resistance enough with a pencil to add more than 1.9V. No matter how much lead I added I couldn't get mine above 1.85. Which is right where the later revs allowed you to go through the BIOS.
Just an update on my efforts
e6750@3.718=fsb@465 max multiplier8 can't say stable yet though have run orthos for 10mins only, which is a massive improvement as its been freezing system until now. moved my memory back to spd rather than manual which helped.
vcore 1.55 on water = 40c load
vdim 2.15 60m fan cooling
mch 1.85 removed silly casing 40m fan
fsb 1.2
ich 1.4
shall see what happens nxt. goto say thanks for thread/posts been of great use.
Your CPU is only at 40c on full load? What kind of watercooling setup do you have?
guys I have just reformated my pc, and the above link is no longer working... Last time I had to format, I used that update and never had a problem....but I wasnt smart enough to backup the file.. :(
this time windows keeps finding the second ethernet controller everytime I reboot... and device manager reports it as "This device cannot start. (Code 10)"
I have already installed (and later removed) the driver that came with the mobo cd, and atm I am using version 10.22.1.3 that I found at marvell webpage... still gives the same error
does anybody have any advice on how to get rid of this error? or a new link to the driver that works????
TIA
:toast:
Can someone explain to me the following concept.
If you push the FSB and compromise by lowering the memory clock and loosen timings what is the effective tradeoff in performance?
Example 1:
Dominator C5D PC2-8500
FSB 345 and PC2-5700 at 5-5-5-15
Vs.
Example 2:
FSB 333 and PC2-6400 at 4-4-4-12
What is the tradeoff? Which is the better performance all other factors being equal?
In Some ways the PC-26400 runs better because I can run tighter timings at a lower FSB.
If you push FSB at the expense of memory speed is the net-net in your favor or against.??
It depends on how much FSB you can gain by loosening your mem timings.
In my case, my board will not function properly with manual ram timings above 370FSB. Now I could run 370 and some nice and tight timings, or I could run 425 and pretty loose timings. With a 9x multi, the 500 extra mhz make up for the loose timings.
But maybe you've got a 7x multi, and the difference is only say 10 FSB. That only nets you 70mhz more in clockspeed. I'd take the tighter mem timings in that case.
Hi Folks, just a few quick questions:
1) Microcode update: what does that do? What's better for OC stability?
2) What temps are ok for stock and load? I'm using Intel's TAT for measurement.
Your example isn't a very good one or incorrect. In example one your stated ram speed is PC2-5700 which is slower than PC2-6400 in example two AND your timings in example one (5-5-5-15) is slower than in example two (4-4-4-12). It's just not right. Faster timings (lower numbers) are usually correlated with slower speeds, but you have slower speed with slower timing. Did you mean PC2-5700 @ 4-4-4-12 and PC2-6400 @ 5-5-5-15?
Latest Marvell drivers can be found here:
http://www.station-drivers.com/page/marvell.htm
8C? On water? Yeah, right. I have a pretty good watercooling setup and running at 1.3v on my CPU my idle temps are around 25/29c @ 68F ambient. Are you using a TEC waterblock or something?
http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/2056/captureqq0.jpg
Here check out 3.7...fsb@465...temp underload 36c! now thats at its lowest on orthos it does go upto 44c during tests.
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/3291/capture2hm5.jpg
Here is idle temp 1.5625vcore. 18c as i am saying at stock voltage my best idle temp has been 8c! but usually around 10-14c...
hope my images are usable as new to image hosting.
coretemp don't show correct voltage?
Goto say bought this board on saturday on a whim was using aw9d though couldn't get over 3.646 stable....wasn't sure what to expect but am quite happy with results so far...though as stated earlier my e6750 would like a higher fsb limit so considering a mobo move again??
The links don't work.
What kind of watercooling parts do you use and what was the ambient temp?
Here's a question for those of your smarter than I. Is it even POSSIBLE for a regular (not TEC) watercooling loop's temperature, and therefore a CPU's temp, to be lower than the ambient temp? That's physically impossible, isn't it?
http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?image=capturetp3.jpg
http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?i...apture2mn5.jpg
Hopefully these links work? as said 1.5625 vcore 3.7g = 18c idle.....load anywhere between 36-44 during test
Ambient temp? clueless.....wheres my abient temp, just looked at someone else oc and their temp on cores was 65c and their ambient temp was 77c?
water setup...aquaxtreme block and pump...rad top of case with 2 120m yates
So polynikes 'im a little slow at catching on' what your saying is I can't have the temps im reporting? well i have had this e6750 on another board aw9d and my temps on that where great too...could it be the cpu is sending incorrect info? on previous board coretemp and speedfan would report (can't recall exact) say 20c though bios would report 31c, speedfan,coretemp report same load temps Tat reports lower load temps my bios on p5w reports pretty close to Tat.
You will notice that those temps are based on a tJunction of 85C. I believe the correct tJunction for E6750 and E6850 should be 100C.
You will need to add 15C to the CoreTemp temps.
I would hope a later version of CoreTemp will correct this error (when it's released).
tahnks aoe makes sense now....did notice other posts else where refering to this....saying that why does speedfan report same as coretemp and TAT report lower than both under load though higher than both idle? and given that tj is 100 are higher core temps ok
Please forgive my ignorance....when my fans are pulling air through the rad its air thats the temp of the room(ambient) how come this air coming into the case feels so much colder than my environment also my water tubing is cold to the touch....in my mixed up logic this tells me my ambient temp dosn't dictate that my cpu can't be colder???
I'll have a go at trying to explain, but not sure I'm qualified...
Your skin emits liquid (sweat) which, when air passes over it, creates a cooling effect (due to evaporation of the liquid). This is why the air coming into the case 'feels' cooler (it's moving and passing over your skin).
The radiator fins don't emit a liquid (hopefully), and therefore does not cool by evaporation.
The reason the tubes feel cool is that they are cooler than your body temp (body temp ~37C).
It is possible in humid conditions that water condenses on the radiator, which would then assist the cooling effect (by evaporation), possibly allowing your temps to fall slightly below ambient. However, we're only talking 1-2C here at most.
OK, I knew there had to be something wrong there. I've never heard of temps that low on any watercooling kit. My own kit has some of the best parts on the market right now and I get nowhere near those temps.
Now, if it was 35 F in the room, it might be possible. ;)
This is a nice link that gives some useful background info on C2D temps and how to interpret them.
However, my favourite quote is from MaxxxRacer's Water-cooling guide (leak testing):
After so much frustration trying to resolve my own temps with my current system, the above post made me feel so much better :up:
right now we know where we stand???? so any reading could and most probably is meaningless. still as i have know found out that i add 15c to my (pointless) temp readings due to tj being 100 and coretemp reporting tj85 does this mean i can have temps higher than i would normally not want to go near?
Oh just to add wasn't going to lap e6750 due to fantastic low temps ha! looks like i will be losing a bit of skin now.
Don't worry, aledsav1, your temps are fine. Even if they were waaaay off, which I'm sure they're not, you've got to be fine because you're watercooling. (That is, provided your pump is still running. ;D)
Well, I spent a lot of time trying to resolve the inconsistencies between my temps after reading the guide linked above. Then I recently read the quote above, and, as I say, started to feel much better about things.
Based on everything I have read so far, my take is this:
The temps reported by all these software tools are useful as an indication only, but we have to accept that they are, in all probability, not accurate, as the sensors themselves have probably not been calibrated to provide an accurate measurement. However, poor calibration shouldn't (in theory) make the readings totally unreliable (there must be a tolerance that the suppliers of the sensors work to, and that tolerance cannot/should not be excessive - be nice to know what those tolerances are :rolleyes: )
At the end of the day, system stability is the most important (only?) factor in determining whether the OC is acceptable. Saying that, as many of us are pushing our systems to the limits, then extreme temps could severely reduce the lifespan of the CPU and other components.
Also taking into account that it is very difficult to get a reliably-calibrated temp sensor into a suitable position to record the accurate temps, and also considering that the CPU specifications are again based on tolerances - well, there are so many variables that it's difficult to provide an informed opinion.
At the end of the day, I would say that, if you're prepared to OC your system to the max, then component lifespan is not a major issue - just system stability. If you can maintain a stable system, then it's more likely that you will replace the components before they fail.
Considering the fact that modern computer hardware is theoretically capable of lasting for decades, overclocking, even heavily, will not reduce the lifespan of the hardware long enough for anyone to actually notice. Most people do major upgrades (mobo/cpu) every 3 years or less, so the chances of overclocking killing a component in that timeframe are almost nil. But hey, I may be wrong. I've been overclocking for a few system build cycles and have never had a part fail me.
I was planning on running my go q6600 on a gigabyte 680i board, but as that has been a complete disaster (could not get it too boot consistently and it killed some of my ocz ram, without overclocking). I am going to run it in my p5wdh at least until x38 boards are out.
What bios is recommended for q6600 overclocking? I have done a search and have not seen an overall recommended bios, more of a couple of people having success with some and nothing terribly consistent.
Just a quick question for the guys using watercooling and pushing 400fsb or above, how many of you are using the small Asus fan that clips on the mosfet cooler? Only reason I ask this is because, I have been for the last 12 months, but now find myself needing to add a PA120.1 to the intake fan of my case(v2000) so it will obscure that area meaning I can no longer use it. Should I be worried and add a small 40mm fan somehow or just forget about it, as it will be fine with nothing added?
I do´nt have that little fan added. Everything works well.
Those mosfets do´nt even get warm.
Hi there,
I've been using a P5W DH for a year or so and I've never really had any issues with it until recently. I've got an E6420 which was running no problems for quite a few months. For the past few weeks I've been running it with a gentle overclock - I just upped the FSB to 333 (2.66Ghz) and the memory (4 sticks of 1 GB Corsair XMS2 PC5400) was running at 670Mhz or so. Again, everything running absolutely fine. I added an X-fi card and everything was working fine and then I soon started getting frequent lockups during the POST. They aren't lock ups per se, just extremely slow posting. It used to take around a minute to POST (yes, I know that's too long as it is) but now it appears to be taking longer and longer. After it says 4096MB OK it just hangs there from anywhere between 2 and 6 minutes before it continues on to loading Windows. If I keep restarting the computer, I can sustain the overclock (with the 2+ minute POST) however once I turn off the computer and then switch it on again I get an Overvoltage/Overclock error. I don't think there is an actual problem with the overclock - I can play games/run Orthos for extended periods absolutely fine - it is just getting past the POST which is the issue. Even if I can boot with 2.7Ghz, then Windows and everything on it runs perfectly normal.
I've tried BIOS 2206 and have now downgraded to 2004 after reading this thread, but am still getting the hangs. I've tried messing around with voltages, but none of them seem to work and I get the same issues. The problem is quite intermittent - it may successfully boot on some occasions, in other occasions I'll need to restart, in other occasions I'll need to unplug and replug the machine. One thing I was thinking is could it possibly be a power supply issue? I have an Enermax 500W and a Radeon 2900XT which I understand is fairly power hungry (but it was working perfectly fine previously). Although, the slow POST still exists at stock speeds/voltages. I think (well hoping) that I'm doing something fundamentally wrong here in the BIOS settings but I can't for the life of me figure out what it could possibly be. I have Vcore set to 1.35v (tried everything up to 1.37), memory voltage I've tried 1.8 - 1.95v, and I have Vmch and the ICH voltage (I could be getting these names wrong) at 1.05v and 1.20v if my memory serves me correctly. After clearing the CMOS as soon as I do anything in regards to memory timings, the slow post begins again. I've disabled HyperPath (problems exists with it on and off) and also all fan control options in the BIOS. Is there anything else I could try? Or is my board slowly dying do you think? And if it is, will I even be able to get an RMA for it since the problem is intermittent and unpredictable dependent on the settings for my devices (the e-tailer I bought it from are notoriously bad and inconsistent when it comes to support - I didn't know this when I bought the board!).
Sorry if this sounds all very incoherent, I'm not very technically minded when it comes to overclocking or anything. But I would really appreciate any help someone could throw at me. Many, many thanks in advance! Cheers.
One possible cause for slow POSTing is problems detecting peripherals (specifically HDDs in my experience).
If you have multiple HDDs, try disconnecting each one and booting to POST. You could also try connecting to different ports.
If using IDE, also check connections and jumper settings on the devices.
wats the best Bios ?
From the first page of this thread:
Extremely slow POST - Disable everything to do with fans in "Hardware Monitor". [Credit - OBR]
I've already tried to disable all fan control options and have added each device one by one and seen if it has some sort of effect on the POST speed . The only thing that increases the POST speed is when overclocking (and it does so dramatically). Even by just manually setting my RAM timings to 4-4-4-12 (which is the speed they are supposed to run at). Without overclocking anything else, or changing any other settings - that will lead to slow POST.
running stock 2004 bios fine, stable and I yield 3.4GHz on a Q6600 B3
I am running bios 2205. My Problem is one that many Vista users are suffering from right now. I get the atikmdag error when running 3D intensive games. This error causes black or flickering screens followed by a bubble in the task tray telling you that a display driver has stopped responding and has been recovered.
TDR Explained
This problem isn't just ati or nvidia it's both:
ATI
Nvidia
Some people have had success when they sync or link their ram. I didn't see that option in the bios anywhere. Is running the fsb and ram in a 1:1 ratio the same thing as syncing?(And if so what options do I go into to make that happen for DDR2 800 Ram?)
I think I've fixed my slow POST problems, thanks very much guys. Carefully reinstalled the RAM modules and it seems to be a lot speeder/stable now. Cheers!
In regards to the ATIKMDAG error I don't get that in any games, but I get it whenever I try to run Windows Dreamscene (a moving background - literally just playing a video). I never used to get it with my old ATI card (X1600) but I get it now each time I try to run it with my new card (2900XT).
hey guys. i've recently built my first pc with the p5w, and everything has been fine up to this point. when i came to install all the drivers, i haven't been able to do it for the ethernet, wifi and remote drivers. all 3 come up with the error message "error:5 - cannot execute..." with the location of the setup executable file for the corresponding driver. this is probably a really simple issue, but i can't for the life of me figure out what's wrong. any help is much appreciated.
tom
The 4 gb question again :)
No just kidding but its about the 4gb, I know from reading this huge thread that only XP or Vista 64 can see more than 3072 but I was planning on using Vista 64 for when I need to work with more ram and keep using Vista 32 until the 64v gets more support. My question is there any problem or harm for my ram when I'm on vista 32 (for most of the time)?
Thx
No, I use both x86 and x64 and even though x86 will only report 3072 the remaining mem is still used you just cannot see it. As far as compatability x64 runs everything I throw at it except for a few old programs that are well really old....
Good luck....
adding to MarcusTaz reply:
- run both XP SP2 (32b) and Vista Ultimate (64b), by swapping OS drives
- usually leave 4gB RAM installed, unless testing OC's
- side effects for me are: 1) more power usage 2) less OC (3.3g vs 3.2g)
- get 3.2gB usable RAM under 32b OS
- otherwise, no other negative side effects running 32b OS with 4gB RAM
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=4178
What you mean its being used? I just installed Vista 64 in a second partition to check it out and thought about doing the same thing, throw Vista 32 out and stick with 64, but I read a lot about poor performance with games :(
How is the 32 bit apps performance on vista 64?
Is it normal when you activate AHCI in bios for the JMicron SATA-port, that the Jmicron PATA-port is disabled?
If any of you are thinking of installing Vista x64 in a seperate partition you may find this general Vista information I previously posted of use.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=5310
Take note that a recent Vista x64 update patch has disabled the ability to permenantly disable driver signing which can be a pain. If you google for info you can identify which KB and either dont install it or uninstall it if already applied. Apart from that I am getting to quite like Vista x64 now that I have made it more like winxp - lol! It definately likes 4Gb or more of memory but so far no problems with games or applications.
My friend bought an new Asus P5W DH Deluxe 1.04G board and an Intel C2D E6850. Memory is 2GB OCZ DDR2 667 Mhz dualchannel.
With the stock 2004 bios, the computer booted, but gave an micro-code error. He updated with the EZ-update deature the bios to version 2103 which supports the new cpu.
He had the problem that the FSB is only working at 1066 Mhz and not 1333 Mhz. He even tried the 2206 bios.
Two problemes.
1) PC won't post after warm reboot.
Can only use power on and off button.
2) FSB is running at 1066 Mhz instead of 1333 Mhz.
How can you change the FSB in the bios?
FSB is set in bios to 333 Mhz
Memory to 667 Mhz with 1.9 volt and 4-4-4-12 timings.
The only thing holding me back to stay with vista 64 only is gaming, I don't play games that much but I enjoy occasionally, plus I'm a little bit worried about my 32 bit apps performance, I got 4gb mainly for Maya and 3D studio, but I will use a lot of Photoshop, after effects and Premeier, softwares that dont support 64 bit yet.
I have one more question, I read bichi post and he mentions something about setting your maxmem, after that I went to the ms site that he had a link and there they have a command 3gb where I could tell windows to use the other 1gb for the kernel. what is the advantage of that?
from Boot INI Options Reference:
http://www.microsoft.com/technet/sys...n/bootini.mspx
/3GB
Increases the size of the user process address space from 2 GB to 3 GB (and therefore reduces the size of system space from 2 GB to 1 GB). Giving virtual-memory- intensive applications such as database servers a larger address space can improve their performance. For an application to take advantage of this feature, however, two additional conditions must be met: the system must be running Windows XP, Windows Server 2003, Windows NT 4 Enterprise Edition, Windows 2000 Advanced Server or Datacenter Server and the application .exe must be flagged as a 3-GB-aware application. Applies to 32-bit systems only.
/MAXMEM=
Limits Windows to ignore (not use) physical memory beyond the amount indicated. The number is interpreted in megabytes. Example: /MAXMEM=32 would limit the system to using the first 32 MB of physical memory even if more were present.
Experimented with above switches, mostly for gaining stability of scientific applications, as opposed to server and enterprise types.
- did not find any advantage with "/3GB" switch with "sci apps" that I use at home
- experimented with same switch with Sony Vegae 7.0e NLE and still did not find any advantage
- "MAXMEM" was interesting, guessing less opcode overhead, if more than 3+gB RAM installed
- did not find any advantage either (but I do leave /MAXMEM=3072 set when 4gB RAM installed, too lazy to switch when changing RAM configuration)
I just upgraded from E6600 at 3.6Ghz to Q6600 G0 at 3.1 Ghz.
I can't get stability with Q6600 any higher than 3.15 Ghz (350 FSB) no matter what settings I use in the bios.
My P5WDH is the old model (1.65v MCH) with 2206 Beta bios.
Any suggestions welcome.
By the way, the 8x multiplier doesn't work. Not that I care about that.
If its volts holding you back on that revision of board you could try this MCH pencil mod (and the rest if you needs them) to get more volts for MCH,DRAM etc http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=3876. If all else fails I can recommend the P5K premium that I upgraded to from the P5W DH as a great o/c board to get the most out of GO CPUs and memory.
As of right here and right now whats the best bios to use for clocking and every day use?
Not a clue what i got at the moment but she a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: at times, but i'm @ 3.5Ghz with a super pi of 14.500
"My friend bought an new Asus P5W DH Deluxe 1.04G board and an Intel C2D E6850. Memory is 2GB OCZ DDR2 667 Mhz dualchannel.
With the stock 2004 bios, the computer booted, but gave an micro-code error. He updated with the EZ-update deature the bios to version 2103 which supports the new cpu.
He had the problem that the FSB is only working at 1066 Mhz and not 1333 Mhz. He even tried the 2206 bios.
Two problemes.
1) PC won't post after warm reboot.
Can only use power on and off button.
2) FSB is running at 1066 Mhz instead of 1333 Mhz.
How can you change the FSB in the bios?
FSB is set in bios to 333 Mhz
Memory to 667 Mhz with 1.9 volt and 4-4-4-12 timings."
Solved by disable Hyperpath 3 in bios.
nice clock pete im waiting to get a new cooler my self then maybe i'll get more and 2004 bios works good for me with ae6400 es chip
1707 is what was on the bord. Now have 2004 on there, took forever to get the prog to flash as Asus's website down, bit torrent for the win!
It seams kinda happy enough for such a crap bord
I have a 1.02G version of the board (is this 1.65 vMCH?).
I wanted to do the pencil mod for vDroop but the pictures on VR are for the 1.0G, which has a different resistor arrangement.
Can anyone take a picture of their board (I think the 1.04G is the same as mine) with this pencil mod? I would be forever grateful!
ALSO -- I just got a Q6600, should I use the latest bios (22XX) or should I use those modded bios (2004?) that are for G0 and 45nm chips?
I am running bios 2205. My Problem is one that many Vista users are suffering from right now. I get the atikmdag error when running 3D intensive games. This error causes black or flickering screens followed by a bubble in the task tray telling you that a display driver has stopped responding and has been recovered.
TDR Explained
This problem isn't just ati or nvidia it's both:
ATI
Nvidia
Some people have had success when they sync or link their ram. I didn't see that option in the bios anywhere. Is running the fsb and ram in a 1:1 ratio the same thing as syncing?(And if so what options do I go into to make that happen for DDR2 800 Ram?)
Thanks for the replies sesdave & EJTREM3.
I think I'm going to buy an Asus P5K-E WIFI to replace the P5WDH for overclocking the Q6600 G0 until the X38 chipset motherboards come out.
The Deluxe and Premiums are a lot more expensive.
Any thoughts appreciated?
i considered to buy a less cheaper motherboard, like gigabyte p35 ds3p or abit ip35 pro
I had the infamous Gigabyte 8IRXP as recommended by Tom's Hardware as the world's first board to achieve 3Ghz. What Tom failed to mention (because it would have made his achievement less spectacular) was the board had a major reboot problem when overclocked.
No more Gigabyte for me.
My friend has had a couple of Abit boards die.
So I've been buying Asus.
i have gigabyte in the pass and its very well motherboard. i love it.
i think its better por ocing then asus.