Any buddy?Quote:
Originally Posted by funk32
Any buddy?Quote:
Originally Posted by funk32
I flashed it to 1602 again, just to be sure and followed those other steps. At least now it remembers the settings again. Right now I'm running on 3.2 GHz (8*400), reasonably stable.Quote:
Originally Posted by funk32
I say reasonably because I still have some problems when I stress is, or so it seems. I have most voltages set to auto, also the gtl's. I'm running Vista x64 and have VT switched on in the bios because I want to be able to run VMWare with 64 bit hosts.
On those hosts I run F@H, but no matter at what clockspeeds my processor is (even default), it will hang after a little while if I do that. I also tried it with SoB in VMWare, but again, same problems occur. A little while ago I ran DPAD straight in windows (even overclocked), and that went fine for weeks. But when I try F@H in windows (SMP client), it will hang as well (haven't tried SoB yet in windows). Idle it's perfectly ok, when I watch movies, it's ok, when I play games, it's ok...
Does anybody have some numbers what all the voltages should be to run a 45nm quadcore @ 2,67 GHz, stress-stable?
good to know that it was a easy fix like mineQuote:
Originally Posted by DPC_Bubbles
57 pages long and I have figured out this board sucks, here is the specs
E8400 E0 Stepping max is 3.6ghz with 1.45 volts on this board--Runs 4.3ghz with 1.4 on a ip35 pro under water
2x1gb ddr2 1000 crucial
300gb drive
bfg 800
Using the 1802 bios tried almost every voltage and config listed in this thread with no avail, still nothing past 3.6ghz on this board is stable.
Yeah have the same problem with 1702
have you tried
1733 fsb linked and sync
cpu multip. : *9
vcore:1.39(mine is 1.40)
pll:1.60
vtt:1.40
mem:2.1(mine is 2.20)
sb:1.60
nb:1.42 (1.48)
ht:1.20
this one seemed to be the BEST STABLE one for me, it gave the rounding error after 2 hours in prime95 lol
i wonder if this one will work work for you.. 'cause each striker seems to give different reactions.. just like women
janjan yes I have tried those settings still the same thing, anything above 1600fsb and it goes very unstable.
If I were to take the north bridge, southbridge and mosfets off and reaply some better thermal compound would it reduce my temps alot more. If so Is it better to invest in some arctic cooling mx-2 compund that i have lying around or buying thermal pads?
I doubt it will help much to make them cooler. I remember when I still had 'em on (with the original pads in between and all), I measured the surface temperature of the northbridge heatsink, which was about 10 deg. Celcius cooler than the internal sensor of the chip, when monitored in the bios.
On an unrelated other note:
I flashed to 1802 bios yesterday evening (without any problems whatsoever) and have been able to run F@H on all 4 cores since then (SMP), which is over 18 hours ago (when I started F@H). Seems this bios finally makes the board able to run new (45 nm) quadcores stable. \o/
Cheers bubbles for the comment. The heat sink can stay on like it is for now then I suppose. I think I'll put that money towards an antec spot cooler and put it directly facing the N/B
It appears to me ******* has not changed his thermal paste, because he doubts it would make much difference. I would suggest you are better off listening to people who have changed theirs out and can tell you what the difference is.Quote:
Originally Posted by gatecrasherlok
If you read back, you would see that it is highly recommended to replace the thermal compounds on the heatsinks.
The stuff Asus used and uses is obviously cheap and is overall poor quality. It is a gray paste, which hardens like J&B Weld, but becomes brittle.
They partially remedied this by, at some point in time, a second thin white thermal paste, which does not harden, but still offers questionable heat transfer.
A combination of the two improves heat transfer over the original, but is still crap.
You can ensure alignment of the pads on the mosfets too. No need to replace the pads.
Replacement of the thermal paste with a high quality compound WILL make a big difference of at least ~10 C, and up to ~40 C on the internal chips temp, depending on the quality and type(s) of the paste Asus had put on.
Ya i 100% agree i will put some pics up of the crappy paste that was on my heat sinks. its pretty bad and another thing is those plastic pins dont do a good job at holding down the big copper heat sink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hor$eman
ok here
Yes, that's exactly what I saw on my second board. First one only had the dark gray paste. Haven't opened my third board box yet, but might check it out tomorrow.
With good reason. The outside of the heatsink was just marginaly lower than the internal readout, giving me a sign that the heatsinks were attached properly and the thermal pads were doing what they were designed to do: transfer that heat to the heatsink. If there was a big difference in temperature, this might have been caused by bad thermal pads/grease. My temperatures were about 75/65 C (internal bios readout / own external measurement). Using another thermal grease might have changed that with probably just a few degrees, and thus not worth the effort. The bigger problem was that I couldn't get a decent airflow on the chipset to get rid of that heat. Instead I just bought watercooling for everything which did help a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hor$eman
hello again,
yesterday my computer did not start:mad:, everything in the case gets the electricity and works but it cant pass the "CPU INIT" part shown in the lcd poster. it is just frozen in that part , ı cannot even restart or shutdown.:shrug:
i think it is the psu causing me the problem (OCZ GameXStream 600W SLI Ready).2 * 8800 gt oc, 6 * 12cm fan, 1 * 4cm fan, 1 harddrive, 1 cdromdrive were connected to the psu. and e8400 was oveclocked to 3.9 ghz.
what do you thınk?? is it the psu overloaded and broken, or something with the cpu or mobo?? :confused:
mine did that and after I spent an hour troubleshooting it, turned out the board was dead. send it in and got an rma replacement, have since put mine in the closet and starting using my abit IP35 PRO again, so that my e8400 would be able to run over 4ghz again.
before the day ı had thıs problem, the computer booted and started normally but ıt was frozen up and deadlocked in windows after the start up.ı restarted ıt got ınto the bıos to check the temps, ıt was also deadlocked in bios.again restarted, it was healthy also played pes2009 with my brother until midnight:rofl:.after that went to sleep and woked up 4 hours later, i had this fckng "cpu ınt" post and dıdnt hear the "beep" sound.then nothing changed thıs sıtuatıon.ı am gonna try ıt wıth a new psu ıf the board ıs dead ıdont thınk they'll rma ıt ı put off the heatsinks once.
no noQuote:
Originally Posted by frontlinegamerz
the striker stable low vol
e8400
in bios
1802
1.47500 vcore
1.54 pll
1.3 vtt
1.48 nb
1.6 sb
1.2 ht
1.2 bc
+60 cpu gtl
+60 nb gtl
+10 ram
+10 aref
+10 bref
load line on
sli ready expert
gpu ex off
1900 fsb:up:
4.275 core speed :up:
59max temp load
http://shahrsakhtafzar.com/img/out.p...rosshair.2.png
http://shahrsakhtafzar.com/img/out.p..._Untitled2.jpg
http://shahrsakhtafzar.com/img/out.p...5_Untitled.jpg
Alrighty guys. I'll give it a bash on getting the old tim off and reapplying some new stuff to the heatsinks. However You kind alost me on the tim I should use lolz. What tim is best, Ceramique or should I stick arctic cooling mx2 on that I use for my cpu? Or is this totally off and I should be looking elsewhere?Quote:
Originally Posted by funk32
:up:use some Arctic Silver 5 thats what i have aways used and it works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by gatecrasherlok
Alrighty thats cool, and thats the same for the mosfets too I presume. Sorry If I sound pretty idiotical. I just want to get everything ready before I take it apart and not realise I need something else to buy leaving me in limbo without a comp. I've never had to redo tim on motherboards before until this board.Quote:
Originally Posted by funk32
Thanks again.
the mosfets use thermal padsQuote:
Originally Posted by gatecrasherlok
can someone give me a setting in bios on how to overclock E8400 to striker2formula? thanks
what do u mean? u can use the AI OCing or change it to manual and change the settings ur self.Quote:
Originally Posted by zearth
Hi boys! I have small problem - i overclock Q9550 E0 to 4GHz near such settings.
http://images27.fotosik.pl/303/7772075b2120b9f6m.jpg
FSB Memory Unlinked
FSB (QDR), MHz - 1888
MEM (DDR), MHz - 1040
CPU Core - 1.3750v
CPU PLL - 1.5v
CPU VTT - 1.38v
Memory - 2.10v
NB - 1.44v
SB - 1.50v
1.2v HT - 1.20v
Bridge Core - 1.20v
CPU GTL - +30mV
NB GTL - +30mV
DDRII Controller DDR2 REF +20mV
Load Line - Enabled
Spread Spec - Disabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal - Disabled
Enhanced C1 (C1E) - Disabled
CPU C State Capa. - Disabled
Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
CPU Multi. - 8.5x
all is stable by 1h in prime95, and the error follows after this time :(
change voltage on CPU in range 1.3750v to 1.4500 nothing gives :confused:
what there can is wrong the settings :confused:
on these settings by 3.8GHz and 1.30v is stable 4h.
i had the same problem but i had a QX6800 i could get to 3.8 stable but trying to hit 4 it would become unstable. i wasnt able to fix this problem. how are you temps during load? have you tryed moving the cpu glt anymore then just 30+ i know i had a diff cpu but i had mine at i think 40+ is the next step up (i dont have my s2f anymore) maybe moving your multi to 9? what type of cooling are u using?