dont you hate it if you have ALL the parts for your build (mail-order) EXCEPT one...because some dorks sent me the wrong HD and now i have to wait for the exchange.
Cant wait for my new build with this board....very excited :)
dont you hate it if you have ALL the parts for your build (mail-order) EXCEPT one...because some dorks sent me the wrong HD and now i have to wait for the exchange.
Cant wait for my new build with this board....very excited :)
I am using a backplate from my Tunic tower 120 along with the original mounting screws, springs, washers & thumb nuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by t_ski
The backplate does make a difference but to be honest my mount is so light now I'm sure you could get away without it.
I wasn't aware of an optional Pro kit with a backplate could you link me to it please.
CN:)
to all of you discussing PWM cooling:
i lapped and used mx-2 on my PWM and it lowered temp by about 5C, the major issue for me is getting heat away from the PWM in the first place, my PWM heatsink gets majorly hot under load, yet DFI prvides no way of mounting a fan to that area... kinda sucks
Yeah Sniipe, I did it today lapped and put on the MX-2, looks like its really better then Ceramique, and it really looks better now, but have to wait so the mosfet burnin first then I'll report back with some pic's :D
But still don't touch it if you don't have to, if your temp's are below 55c I wouldn't touch it better active cool it then reapply the TIM it's really tricky with the digital Mosfet.
Sure. Here is the pro set:Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
http://www.jab-tech.com/Dtek-FuZion-...t-pr-4048.html
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp...rodID=205&HS=1
They also have a "quick-mount" set:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Dtek-FuZion-...t-pr-4049.html
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp...rodID=206&HS=1
I was thinking about buying the Fuzion, the Pro mount kit, and the nozzle set, but I need to get some extra funds together if I'm gonna buy that and this board, too.
EDIT: Oooooh, on the D-tek site they have a "Unisink" that is compatible with the R600 :D
Thanks for that, all I got to do now is find one in Europe.Quote:
Originally Posted by t_ski
The D-Tek block is superb you wont regret getting one.
CN :)
what im interested in for the pwm cooling is something that goes in place of where the dfi heatpipe is supposed to go... Its just a flat space with a groove , when it could have been filled with fins
I wish that the dfi heatpipe doesnt go to the northbridge as well now that i've got that watercooled... But the pwm area sure could use some extra help, like if you have mx2 or something between the heatsink and the heatpipe
You're welcome. Any time I get to pass on the useless info I accumulate, I do ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
I definitely would like to try one as soon as I can get enough $$ together (unless D-Tek wants to send me a sample :D ). I'm amassing quite a collection: TDX, MC-TDX, Storm Rev.2, GTX, plus the MCW-30 and the MPC-975X chipset blocks. I'm hoping to give them all a chance with the new mnobo and a Quad.
AFAIK, there is not heatpipe from the NB to anywhere, unless you are talking about the stock NB heatsink that has a heatpipe in it. However, as for your comment about some MX-2 between the ehatpipe and the plate, that's something I did before with my Danger Den Tyee and V-reg bridge. I wouldn't have installed it any other way.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
One more idea for anyone - what is the center-to-center distance between the MOSFET push-pins? I have a MOSFET block for my Asus P5W-DH Deluxe that's I haven't used yet. I know the holes look like they are not centered on the MOSFETs, but perhaps some tape or something could be used to prop up the one side and make it sit flat? The block I have is an Alphacool (IIRC) with about 89mm between the holes.
Of course, if anyone really wanted to, I know a couple machine shops around here. If we could get the remounting issue worked out, we could take one of the heatsinks to a machine shop and have them replicate the mounting, but instead of a heatsink, make it into a waterblock...
how about just a new PWM heatsink with a way to mount 2 x 60mm fans that blow out of the case through the I/O panel slots, I'd snap one up without a second thought.
I could see one 40mm or 50mm fan maybe, but a waterblock would be easier to machine than a fan.
im sure 2 60's will fit, ive layed it out, but i think ill get out the dremel and do the mod myself, unfortunately ill have to lose some fin area to pull it off
If you get a chance, snap a couple pics while you do the mod.
i got my pwm heatsink is lapped with mx2 max temp i ever seen it was 36c
ahh yes, the dfi transpiper only covers the pwm area, ive just realized... I am thinking of getting one, but is it a case of bad contact between the pwm and the heatsink, or not enough brute cooling? All you guys talking about lapping the heatsink and swapping the thermal paste make the heatpipe brute cooling idea sound like compensating for a problem instead of solving it...
Also, can someone help me get over my confusion, and tell me if i am right to think that the straps are a part of the memory divider? Like the 200/xxx dividers are one strap, the 266/xxx ones are a different strap, etc etc...
That's how it works. However, with the X38 chipset there is very little performance difference between straps. Use the setting that best matches up with the FSB you're at and optimizes memory speed for the sticks you're using.Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
Quote:
Originally Posted by carmatic
the same problems exist on other boards...Abit's IP35 Pro with an integrally tied heatsink among the PWM, NB and SB....abit didn't use a good thermal TIM and didn't make sure the heatsink sat solidly on the chipsets and PWM....SO...it forced me and countless others to modify the setup with our own TIM paste and bolts to clamp it down better than the plastic pins with springs...that said, i felt comfortable with DFI's use of a stonger push pin with springs on the DFI's X38 NB heatsink.
Greetings, X-38ers, I got my second board yesterday and have my QX9650 in it now, running perfectly. The first board gave me 88 error codes , and no l.e.d. at the end .and had to be constantly tinkered with to get it to boot. I had thought the X-38 was having issues with my chip but apparently it was just a bad board. this one changes multi's fine and voltages are stable....:woot:
I will have it back under phase change soon. the one evening I had the other board going it was acting funny. I finally have a chance to stretch it's legs a little.
It is a good thing I bought from Motherboardpro , they went out of their way to get my board rma'd quickly and I got my new board as soon as they got in the country.:up:
With the latest bios's both the X-38 and P-35 seem to work just fine with 45nm cpu's. DFI has fixed the issues as far as I can see.
i could'nt get my 60mm fan to fit inside my rig blowing ion the pwm, so i cut the grills off the rear plate & mounted a 60mm fan sucking out at the back.
i also used the fans cable to slightly block the big space in the middle of the pwm sink, so the air's not just being pulled through the middle.
i would post sum pictures but my only camera is on my phone & my phones software does'nt work on my OS. sony ericsson cant be arsed to make x64 drivers :( :down: their far to busy throwing money at the ps3 lol
speaking of PWM cooling, anybody remembered the http://www.abit.com.tw/page/en/motherboard/motherboard_detail.php?DEFTITLE=Y&fMTYPE=Socket%20 AM2&pMODEL_NAME=Fatal1ty%20AN9%2032X?
http://www.abit.com.tw/upload/produc..._panel_500.jpg
didn't it have some type of active cooling? was it any good? how come other boards don't come like that anymore?
G0 Q6600@4097 Cpu-z Verified.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=298243
I was able to get 4ghz prime stable with 1.6v, but I think its a little much for 24/7, even 3.825 at 1.5v is a little out of my comfort level, so I settled on 3.6 at 1.4v for my everday use. I love this chip and board combo!
ive just been having a go for max fsb & managed simular on my e6750.
4.1Ghz is about as far as i can get, core volt's & coretemps arnt an issue, it just wont go higher.
i can get stable at 4Ghz with just over 1.5 core volts & it peeks in the mid 50's coretemp :) boots to OS bloody fast too.
I think the issue there was noise, which is why most other boards have since gone with some kind of passsive solution, or a combined heatpipe setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
guys what color mem slots do you use on the LT??? green or yellow???
I got 2x2GB OCZ Plats XTC
is one more stable than the other?
Thanks!!
i use green
Both ;)