ASUS Striker II Extreme

I see the HR09 Type 4 more attractive :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Whizzer

I have the same problem with a Q6600 (G0 stepping), but I can get it to 3.60GHz or even beyond at idle (cooling can't handle higher than 3.70) on a 8x multiplier. Try setting the FSB to 1600 and the multiplier at 8x, adjust some of the CPU and NB voltages and it should work.

---

I tried those settings and variations, but when I get to windows it BSOD's.

Might be a ram limitation.. I'll keep you updated.

After reading Tyke's post 1280 I tried some of his settings as I have the same CPU.

Kept LLC DIS and Vcore at 1.3875, NB=1.50 & SB=1.55
Changed PLL & VTT back to AUTO
Changed GTLREF0 to -14mV
Changed to 15.17 chipset drivers.

Now 11 1/2hr prime stable with manual halt, previous best was 11 minutes ending in hardware failure.

Big thanks to Tyke !!.

PS. Just ordered Asus 280 GTX TOP

My rig :QX9770 on Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme cooler:
EVGA 9800 GX2 SSC. Creative X-Fi Elite Pro.
OCZ 4x1Gb PC3-16000C9 2000Mhz Platinum EB
Samsung F1 1TB & 2X500Gb Hitachi SATA 2.
2xSamsung 20XDVD-RW SATA
Vista Ultimate 32bit

Settings : 430x9.5=4085Mhz overclock. 1720 FSB Syn & Linked.
Mem : 7-7-7-22-30-1T @ 1.9v

Benches : 20,419 3dMark06 7,274 PCMarkVantage.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Erikz

I tried those settings and variations, but when I get to windows it BSOD's.

Might be a ram limitation.. I'll keep you updated.

---

If that's the case, try setting a lower multiplier (like 3:2) or simply run it unlinked at a low speed (1000MHz just to be sure). If you use Vista, be sure to install the RAM update if you have 3GB or more installed: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777

Also try pulling some sticks if that's the case, it helped me initially.

What BIOS are you using? I just updated to 0901 (had to resort to AwardFlash again, but it works fine), and now I can overclock almost just as far with a 9x multiplier as the previous 8x multiplier attempts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

Thanks man, I dont know yet about the shrouds since I heard they didnt come out yet. I like Yate Loons so Im going to be using two 1650Rpms UV Blue Yate Loons for this. Btw, what is that quad-core plate you are talking about? (sorry Im still a noob with this water stuff hehe)

---

Yea, I've used some Yate Loon fans they are A1!!
Ther Quad Core plate is an update for the V2 Fuzion that optimises the flow for Quad Core processors, it forces the water flow where the two dies are on the chip and improves cooling performance. In the V1 this was done with a set of nozzles. It is very simple to fit. The shrouds for the Rad are a must!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tyke

Yea, I've used some Yate Loon fans they are A1!!
Ther Quad Core plate is an update for the V2 Fuzion that optimises the flow for Quad Core processors, it forces the water flow where the two dies are on the chip and improves cooling performance. In the V1 this was done with a set of nozzles. It is very simple to fit.

---

So that quad core plate comes built-in with the V2 right? No need to purchase it separately?

BTW, I see you are using a triple fan rad for the cpu, isnt that a little too much just for the cpu? =P

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rob2k

After reading Tyke's post 1280 I tried some of his settings as I have the same CPU.

Kept LLC DIS and Vcore at 1.3875, NB=1.50 & SB=1.55
Changed PLL & VTT back to AUTO
Changed GTLREF0 to -14mV
Changed to 15.17 chipset drivers.

Now 11 1/2hr prime stable with manual halt, previous best was 11 minutes ending in hardware failure.

Big thanks to Tyke !!.

PS. Just ordered Asus 280 GTX TOP

My rig :QX9770 on Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme cooler:
EVGA 9800 GX2 SSC. Creative X-Fi Elite Pro.
OCZ 4x1Gb PC3-16000C9 2000Mhz Platinum EB
Samsung F1 1TB & 2X500Gb Hitachi SATA 2.
2xSamsung 20XDVD-RW SATA
Vista Ultimate 32bit

Settings : 430x9.5=4085Mhz overclock. 1720 FSB Syn & Linked.
Mem : 7-7-7-22-30-1T @ 1.9v

Benches : 20,419 3dMark06 7,274 PCMarkVantage.

---

Glad it worked :up: Keep us informed if you have any problems.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

So that quad core plate comes built-in with the V2 right? No need to purchase it separately?

BTW, I see you are using a triple fan rad for the cpu, isnt that a little too much just for the cpu? =P

---

No the plate comes separately it is very cheap. You open up the Fuzion block and replace the standard plate, it is just a simple one minute job. Make sure you align the holes in the plate with the two cores on the processor.
Yes the triple rad is overkill, but I am thinking of getting watercooled GTX 280s, in which case I will add the motherboard cooling to the CPU loop, and have a separate graphics loop.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tyke

No the plate comes separately it is very cheap. You open up the Fuzion block and replace the standard plate, it is just a simple one minute job. Make sure you align the holes in the plate with the two cores on the processor.
Yes the triple rad is overkill, but I am thinking of getting watercooled GTX 280s, in which case I will add the motherboard cooling to the CPU loop, and have a separate graphics loop.

---

Thats nice, btw I just found it on PPCS.com and I will use it for sure.
ASUS should have my board by now, I hope they are testing my SLI issues! :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

Thats nice, btw I just found it on PPCS.com and I will use it for sure.
ASUS should have my board by now, I hope they are testing my SLI issues! :D

---

Dream on slim...

Any testing they do is after the fact.

You'll get a new board that's probably been checked out, fixed, and pronounced healthy.

Ain't no way they'll take the time to troubleshoot your SLI issue..

BTW, their qa people all have sores on their knuclkles from dragging them on the ground.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nuclearjock

Dream on slim...

Any testing they do is after the fact.

You'll get a new board that's probably been checked out, fixed, and pronounced healthy.

Ain't no way they'll take the time to troubleshoot your SLI issue..

BTW, their qa people all have sores on their knuclkles from dragging them on the ground.

---

Asus is known to send the same board back from RMA after having "repaired" it. A lot of people have complained that they are getting back "used" boards, whereas it's their own board being sent back after "repairing".That's the reason that I wrote down the serial # of my dead board before I sent it for RMA and was surprised to see a brand new retail board being sent back.

So in short yes, it's quite possible that they will try to troubleshoot slim's problems before deciding whether to send the same board after "repairing" or a new one.

BTW, Slim I am not trying to scare you buddy but am just stating the stuff that I know of when I was researching on the net about RMAing stuff to Asus.Good luck with whatever board you get back.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nuclearjock

Dream on slim...

Any testing they do is after the fact.

You'll get a new board that's probably been checked out, fixed, and pronounced healthy.

Ain't no way they'll take the time to troubleshoot your SLI issue..

BTW, their qa people all have sores on their knuclkles from dragging them on the ground.

---

I dont know if they do test the issues. I sent them together with the board a paper with one paragraph stating my issues. My inestability even at stock and my SLI issues when watching videos and even when burning DVDs so at least, they could read my paper and do something about it.
If they dont test anything, then why is the RMA such a long process? I heard it takes 10 days? This is a lot of time if you ask me...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tekjunkie

Asus is known to send the same board back from RMA after having "repaired" it. A lot of people have complained that they are getting back "used" boards, whereas it's their own board being sent back after "repairing".That's the reason that I wrote down the serial # of my dead board before I sent it for RMA and was surprised to see a brand new retail board being sent back.

So in short yes, it's quite possible that they will try to troubleshoot slim's problems before deciding whether to send the same board after "repairing" or a new one.

BTW, Slim I am not trying to scare you buddy but am just stating the stuff that I know of when I was researching on the net about RMAing stuff to Asus.Good luck with whatever board you get back.

---

I also heard people getting used boards, others getting boards that were refurbished but worked and others received new motherboard.
I also have the S# of my board in my ASUS profile just in case.

I just hope that if they get to test my board, Im praying that they see the screen freeze on their face.

Tek, I been hearing this stuff all over the net. You are not the first one so I guess the moment I sent my board, I accepted to take the risk. However, I cant just keep a board that wont be stable even at stock settings, I rather get a refurbished that WORKS.

Ok, I know this is a little off topic but I need some recomendations
I dont know which one should I set up, both have advantages.
Prototype 1 will bring all the cold water straight to the CPU then NB
Prototype 2 will bring all cold water and store it on the reservoir (basically), I heard this is the most common and most used?

Here is prototype 1
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/880...ypeflowzm8.png

Here is prototype 2
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/855...ypeflowte7.png

Which one do you think would work better? I want the best performance.

Hello everyone,

first post ever on this forum,

and i'd like to say this community a GREAT ONE !
technical and accurate and all ...


reading a few thread on this forum have been very helpfull to learn about overclocking ( and i m becoming an addict lol )
anyway i feel like sharing my little experience,
with my AS2E BIOS 0704, E8500, 1 stick ( didn t try with 2 yet ) DDR3 2GB CORSAIR 9-9-9-24 DHX 1600Mhz
this board might not have been the easiest to start with too :D

- at first i found this board wasn t stable at all @stock everything AUTO

so i did find this forum and learn a few thing,
main problems came from the RAM voltage it was 1.6v and also NB that was like 1.32v
first step to stability was to bring RAM to 1.8v and NB to 1.46v
then reading you all gave me the taste to start with overclocking experience !
so here is my first stable OC

E8500@3.6 been using PRIME95 over 10hours, and 3dmark06 looping for about 13hours

i've been using those settings

QFSB 1517
Multi 9.5 Link Sync
LDT X4

RAM 1.8v
CPU 1.2725
LLC Disabled ( so there s something like 0.05v drop when under load according CPU-Z )

PLL 1.5 VTT 1.28
( i dont remember which one is 1.5 and the other 1.28 anyway low green voltage value in bios )

NB 1.46
SB 1.55 ( think 1.5 is also stable )

Rest is on AUTO i'm not yet familar to this settings GTL things


- after this i did try learn about MAX FSB lowering RAM speed and setting multiplier to 6x

i'm on AIR also i did find out i don t want to go over 1.4v for this CPU, it s leading to something like 63c with coretemp 53with real temp
when i m reaching 2200QFSB (550 FSB) this would the very last FSB i can run before my MB either dont boot or can t get stable running PI 32M

so i found i m somewhat easily stable at 500 X 6multi @ arround 1.38v BIOS
which is leading to 1.344 idle 1.328 load CPU-Z

i ve also find out my ram rated 1600 would go somewhat up to 1750 linked synced before i need to go 4:5 or 3:2

in reality all i did want to reach is the *famous* 4Ghz 24/7
but i ve found out it s not really working anymore when i m trying to up the MULTI again ...

i think according to my Ram max i should be able to run either at
421*9.5 or 445*9 linked to reach the 4Ghz

but it s just failing after 1 sec of prime

where the 500*6 unlinked or the 425*6 linked would run forever


any idea to improve stabilty ?
thank you

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

Ok, I know this is a little off topic but I need some recomendations
I dont know which one should I set up, both have advantages.
Prototype 1 will bring all the cold water straight to the CPU then NB
Prototype 2 will bring all cold water and store it on the reservoir (basically), I heard this is the most common and most used?

Here is prototype 1
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/880...ypeflowzm8.png

Here is prototype 2
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/855...ypeflowte7.png

Which one do you think would work better? I want the best performance.

---

I have the second setup, and I think most people would advise this: you have the hottest block (CPU) first in loop, fed direct from pump. How are you cooling your SB and mosfets? Have you changed your rad to a Thermochill?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

Ok, I know this is a little off topic but I need some recomendations
I dont know which one should I set up, both have advantages.
Prototype 1 will bring all the cold water straight to the CPU then NB
Prototype 2 will bring all cold water and store it on the reservoir (basically), I heard this is the most common and most used?

Here is prototype 1
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/880...ypeflowzm8.png

Here is prototype 2
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/855...ypeflowte7.png

Which one do you think would work better? I want the best performance.

---

In a warm room or case, the water in the reservoir will warm up.
I dont know how big your reservoir is, maybe it isn't that big so it's quicker pumped around than heated.
I prefer : pump->CPU (might be high restrictive like EK Supreme or D-Tek Fusion with nozzle, so you want high flow/pressure and this is the heart of your machine, it deserves the best cooling of all components)->NB(water won't rise more than 1`c when passing cpu)->Reservoir(hot water might cool a little bit before cooled down by radiator)->radiator->pump

It might even be better to put the radiator behind the pump, a pump may add heat to the water from his engine.
That depends om your cpu block, if you put a radiator behind the pump, the pressure wil decrease and might be bad for high restrictive blocks (as noticed above)

All by all, if you don't use a chiller it might not be such a big deal.
Your water will get warm all over the loop.
The most important is a good radiator or off course a waterchiller.

Another thing, if you use a fillport, drop the reservoir, save yourself some money and use a T-split with some extra tubbing ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

I see the HR09 Type 4 more attractive :)

---

Agree !
But those ain't confirmed to fit on the SIIE (they are on reference 790i boards)
And type 2 works great :up:

I'd say the second set up

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tyke

I have the second setup, and I think most people would advise this: you have the hottest block (CPU) first in loop, fed direct from pump. How are you cooling your SB and mosfets? Have you changed your rad to a Thermochill?

---

So Tyke you have the second setup exactly as I drew it right? Is this (2nd setup) the standard setup most people use? I have seen a couple of this in the WC section.
Im not going to cool the SB and mosfets. This would mean more money and probably another rad and pump to keep everything cool. I will just buy an Antec Spotcool and place it right above the SB.

And sorry for the confusion, Im going to be buying a Feser X-changed 360. Is just that I got the draws from somebody else thats why it has PA120.3

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Justifire

In a warm room or case, the water in the reservoir will warm up.
I dont know how big your reservoir is, maybe it isn't that big so it's quicker pumped around than heated.
I prefer : pump->CPU (might be high restrictive like EK Supreme or D-Tek Fusion with nozzle, so you want high flow/pressure and this is the heart of your machine, it deserves the best cooling of all components)->NB(water won't rise more than 1`c when passing cpu)->Reservoir(hot water might cool a little bit before cooled down by radiator)->radiator->pump

It might even be better to put the radiator behind the pump, a pump may add heat to the water from his engine.
That depends om your cpu block, if you put a radiator behind the pump, the pressure wil decrease and might be bad for high restrictive blocks (as noticed above)

All by all, if you don't use a chiller it might not be such a big deal.
Your water will get warm all over the loop.
The most important is a good radiator or off course a waterchiller.

Another thing, if you use a fillport, drop the reservoir, save yourself some money and use a T-split with some extra tubbing ;)

---

My room sometimes gets really hot. Sometimes I will come back from outside and lower the AC but generally my room temp is not cold, just regular temp not cold not warm. Cant specify a degree sorry, never measured room temp.
Im going to be using an EK-Multioption RES 250 Rev 2 which is going to be placed right next to the DVD Drives.

I think the Feser will do a good job, specially since the 360 is the sweet spot. About the reservoir, I really want to use it. Its my first time building a watercooling system and I want to use the reservoir. Besides I think it looks cool :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Justifire

Agree !
But those ain't confirmed to fit on the SIIE (they are on reference 790i boards)
And type 2 works great :up:

---

If they confirm it, I would get those. Finally a sexy mosfet cooler with a sexy motherboard :rofl:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Xoote

I'd say the second set up

---

Thanks for the recommendation :up:

So far everybody seems to like the second one, this is what Im going to be using

CPU Block: D-TEK FuZion v2 CPU Block (CPU: Q9450)
Quad-Core Plate: D-Tek FuZion v2 Quad Core Mid Chamber Insert
Radiator: Feser X-Changer Triple 120mm Xtreme Performance
Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B (No Speed Controller)
Barbs: Bitspower Premium G1/4" High Flow 1/2" Fitting (*8)
Bitspower Premium G1/4" High Flow 3/8" Fitting (*2)
Bitspower Multi-Transfer Base (Coupler) - Set of 2
Clamps: Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/16 in. to 25/32 in
Reservoir: EK-Multioption RES 250 Rev 2
Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
EK-ANTI-Cyclon for EK Reservoirs
EK Spare Reservoir Holders
Filling Syringe
Fillport: Danger Den Aluminum Fillport
Tubes: Tygon R3603 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Laboratory Tubing (*10 feet)
Tygon 3603 3/8" ID (5/8" OD) Clear Tubing (*1 foot)
Coolant: Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid - UV Blue - 1 Liter
------------------
Im going to be making a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor with the barbs for the NB.

So now with all of this info, which setup would be better for me? I think second setup is preferred so far, but I forgot to mention my room sometimes gets a little warm and that might affect the reservoir temp. I will also have a 120mm fan on top of the case to help exhaust air from the reservoir (forgot to draw this fan on the pictures) so this will help, but dont know if will help enough to go for the second setup.
What do you guys think?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

So Tyke you have the second setup exactly as I drew it right? Is this (2nd setup) the standard setup most people use? I have seen a couple of this in the WC section.
Im not going to cool the SB and mosfets. This would mean more money and probably another rad and pump to keep everything cool. I will just buy an Antec Spotcool and place it right above the SB.

And sorry for the confusion, Im going to be buying a Feser X-changed 360. Is just that I got the draws from somebody else thats why it has PA120.3

So now with all of this info, which setup would be better for me? I think second setup is preferred so far, but I forgot to mention my room sometimes gets a little warm and that might affect the reservoir temp. I will also have a 120mm fan on top of the case to help exhaust air from the reservoir (forgot to draw this fan on the pictures) so this will help, but dont know if will help enough to go for the second setup.
What do you guys think?

---

Personally I would cool the SB with SLi, but its your choice. You gotta get shrouds on the Feser rad, they look really cool, and will give you better temps as well. Good luck with it, lo0k forward to hearing your results. Otherwise I thionk your setup is perfect. I use a large double bay reservoir on both my loops, I would imagine that this keeps the fluid cooler but I haven't tested it.

Well, i ordered an S-Max and a pair of GTX 280 blocks from EK today, so they should be here in a few days. Hopefully watercooling the NB will help a bit! :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tyke

Personally I would cool the SB with SLi, but its your choice. You gotta get shrouds on the Feser rad, they look really cool, and will give you better temps as well. Good luck with it, lo0k forward to hearing your results. Otherwise I thionk your setup is perfect. I use a large double bay reservoir on both my loops, I would imagine that this keeps the fluid cooler but I haven't tested it.

---

Will get shrouds, thats something I forgot to add to my list hehe.
About the SB, I dont know. I dont want to have a 3x120 rad for everything since my main concern is the CPU and the NB.
If I decide to wc the SB, that means either cut the heatpipe or buy Thermalright mosfet coolers and a SB block. Plus I would have to find a block that is super-low profile in case someday I decide to buy GTX 280 or something that big for SLI.

Why do you say wc the SB? Because the SB itself gets hot or because SLI makes it get hot? (Remember 8800GT are 1 slo, I can clearly see my SB from my window). Adding the Spotcool to the SB I think would be good dont you think? :shrug:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by |SiLA|

does our supremefx 2 supports dd live and/or dts connect?

using optical keep getting only stereo channle

under vista 64

---

bump :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

Ok, I know this is a little off topic but I need some recomendations
I dont know which one should I set up, both have advantages.
Prototype 1 will bring all the cold water straight to the CPU then NB
Prototype 2 will bring all cold water and store it on the reservoir (basically), I heard this is the most common and most used?

Here is prototype 1
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/880...ypeflowzm8.png

Which one do you think would work better? I want the best performance.

---

By having the loop order Res > Pump > Rad > Blocks > Res you remove all of the heat dump from the pump and have the liquid going from Rad to blocks, all the "heated coolant" will go to the res, heat dump of the pump to rad again. I have my all three of my loops running that way.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

Will get shrouds, thats something I forgot to add to my list hehe.
About the SB, I dont know. I dont want to have a 3x120 rad for everything since my main concern is the CPU and the NB.
If I decide to wc the SB, that means either cut the heatpipe or buy Thermalright mosfet coolers and a SB block. Plus I would have to find a block that is super-low profile in case someday I decide to buy GTX 280 or something that big for SLI.

---

If you WC the NB, you have to get coolers for the Mosfets and SB as well. The Asus Heat pipe is one unit.

Evercool makes a block that fits on the SB and allows Tri-SLI, no WC for the SB, but you atleast get some fan over cooler relief for the SB.

If you WC the SB, you cannot run Tri-SLI, you will need a very short PCIE card to fit in PCIEX16-3. I added an EK Asus 5 to my SB, so the 9600GT I had for my second display is no go. Will only be able to do SLI and a single display.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slim142

Why do you say wc the SB? Because the SB itself gets hot or because SLI makes it get hot? (Remember 8800GT are 1 slo, I can clearly see my SB from my window). Adding the Spotcool to the SB I think would be good dont you think? :shrug:

---

If you don't WC the SB, run the Evercool.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by skinnee

By having the loop order Res > Pump > Rad > Blocks > Res you remove all of the heat dump from the pump and have the liquid going from Rad to blocks, all the "heated coolant" will go to the res, heat dump of the pump to rad again. I have my all three of my loops running that way.

---

Thats the positive about the first draw. Fresh cold water straight to the blocks which seems pretty smart.